Handling Imperfections, New and Old

The 1940 New World project continues. Every project has its challenges, sometimes through years or use, shipping damage, or even manufacturing defects.

Let's take a look at a manufacturing defect inherent on these pre-1945 New World bikes. These bikes have wire fender braces, which was typical for that time. Less typically, the braces are mounting by drilling and screwing through them rather than holding them in brackets. This represents a mixture of English style (wire braces) and American style (drilling and riveting the braces) construction.

At the factory, it appears that the process was very simple - shape the wire brace, then stamp it where it needed to be flat. No extra material seems to have been added to the spine where it would be drilled for the rivet. The result is a weak spot where the rivet hole was placed.

 

An old break... Which Still Should be Fixed

Above you can see what happens to these braces. When this particular brace was drilled, the hole was a little off-center, leaving very little metal on one side. When the rivet was stamped into place, it cracked the thin side of the hole. This particular brace was carefully removed from the fender without any harm, so this break seems to have existed since 1940, when the bike was assembled. 

The basic solution here will be to either weld or braze the crack back together. A more permanent solution would be to weld or braze additional metal around this area to strengthen the brace. The solution will probably require a fair amount of grinding and shaping the joint, then some re-drilling of the hole (hopefully more on-center this time). These braces are notorious for cracking or totally breaking right around this rivet hole. 

Schwinn ultimately (and wisely) replaced this style of brace with their heavy-duty type fender braces shortly after WWII ended. The later braces are much, much stronger than the pre-1945 types. Although the wire braces is simple, and in some ways elegant, the later braces are much more practical.  The higher-end Continental of the late 1940s used wire braces that were held in place by brackets (no drilling of the wire), which worked much better.

Wire bracket-wire braces on a 1947 Continental

 

The decision whether to fix an old imperfection is a judgment call. Sometimes these imperfections are just cosmetic, so nothing need be done (or should be done, for sake of originality). 

The decision is usually a bit clearer with new injuries to the bike. 

Cracks - not terrible, but should be fixed just the same...

The above photo shows cracks from stress and shipping damage. These pre-1945 New World fenders use slotted-and riveted brackets. A slot is cut in the fender, the bracket is inserted and then riveted into place. Later New Worlds used external brackets riveted to the surface, without cutting the fender. Again, the later solution is the more robust even if not quite as elegant and low-profile. 

In this case, we can see the origins... the bottom of the bike box broke open and the bike was delivered upside down, with all the weight resting on the top of the fender. The box was open as you see below. The mechanized delivery systems can be rough on these old bikes... I'm just lucky the entire bike arrived without anything major missing from it.

A Worrying Sight on Arrival...

 

In this case, the cracks can be brazed or welded and smoothed. If these cracks were not near the bracket or in a weight-bearing area, they could be mended using sheet metal perpendicular to the crack, and JB Weld epoxy.

My approach to these newer imperfections is to fix them, even if cosmetic. I don't mind "honest wear" or something that came with the bike when it was made, but I have a dislike for shipping damage, abuse, or neglect injuries to the bike. All of this kind of work goes into refurbishing an old bike, particularly an 85+ year old machine such as this one.

New Project - 1940 Schwinn New World Tall Frame

 My thought of "downsizing" the collection has so far been thwarted by the arrival of some very interesting bicycle projects in winter 2025-26. The latest arrival is this 1940 Schwinn New World three speed bike. 

 

As-found - but it all has to start somewhere...

One of the fun aspects of the old bike hobby is seeing the outline of a nice bicycle while still "in the rough". In other words, you can see the potentially nice bicycle while looking at the project in its dusty, unwashed, unrefubished state. In this case, I can see the outline of a classic, early American-made utility bike with a desirable taller frame of 23-inches. This particular bike was located in the basement of a long-standing bike and sports/ice hockey (another fun pastime - see here for some previous hockey fun I had) shop just outside of Chicago, Illinois (they were featured on NBC's "Today" show a couple years ago - see here). The seller was a very nice, helpful shop owner. I wish we still had shops like this in my neighborhood...

I've already started on this bike. I have it totally disassembled in my workshop and washed-up. I've begun removing cleaning up the paint and removing rust. I've sourced a few period replacement parts. I have singled out the front fender for some crack repair (spot welding and grinding probably) and one of the braces for crack repair (spot weld, drill, smooth probably). This bike has quite a distance to go, but I am already seeing a great deal of potential for a classic, pre-war Schwinn utility bike ready for riding season 2026.

This bike joins two other recent acquisitions: a WWII era Raleigh Dawn Safety Tourist, and a 1949-50 Schwinn New World already in excellent shape. And here I started winter 2025-26 thinking I would be "downsizing"... so much for that... With all these nice bikes around, I hope riding season 2026 has a lot of good weather.

Ultrasonic Cleaners - A Few Tips

 

Modern, ultrasonic cleaners offer the ability to clean parts using vibration, water, and heat to clean and de-grease parts. This kind of work used to be completed with chemicals such as paint thinner, mineral spirits, etc. and scrubbing. Ultrasonic cleaners allow you to use a water-based, less toxic cleaner and let the machine to more of the work. You'll still have to do a little scrubbing and drying by hand, but the machine does a lot of the cleaning work.

I've used ultrasonic cleaners for bike parts for about 15 years now. I started with a small machine made by Lyman and eventually moved to a pair of larger machines made by Vevor. The Lyman was a good machine, but on the small side and limited to a 6-minute timer.  The Vevor machines I use are not bad: they have the features I like, though I will admit they're somewhat inexpensively built. The metal used is of a fairly thin gauge. But I have had good luck with them so far. There are probably many other brands that would work well. These machines allow you to put parts in to clean while you work on other tasks in the shop.

Here are a few pointers for working with ultrasonic cleaners:

• Get a machine with a long timer - preferably a 30-minute timer. Some ultrasonic cleaners look nice from the outside, but the timer only runs in 5 or 10 minute increments. For really dirty parts, you'll want to run it longer - probably 20 or more minutes. My cleaners have 30-minute timers and that has worked well. Sometimes it takes two or three 30-minute cycles if something is really dirty. 

•  Get a reasonably large machine. Small cleaners seem to be cost-effective, but you'll find they struggle to handle heavier cleaning loads. Also, you'll probably find you use more capacity than you think you will use at first. I have a 6 liter cleaner in my upstairs shop and a 10 liter in my basement shop. These are considered medium-sized cleaners. They will handle a completely dismantled Sturmey Archer AW hub (including the shell) in one fill, but just barely. It sounds like a lot, but once you start putting dirty parts into the basket, you'll find yourself using more space than you expected at first.

• Get a machine with easy-to-read settings and large-ish buttons. Garage and basement shops sometimes have iffy lighting. Large buttons and displays help you get the machine set up correctly.

• Get a machine with a good drain valve. Manual dumping works for small machines, but medium and larger machines should have a good, sturdy ball valve so you can drain the machine without having to lift and dump. It's also a plus if the valve has a threaded pipe end so you can directly pipe the water into a waste basin. 

• Get a machine with a good basket having rubber feet. The basket does more work than you think, especially when it's fully loaded with parts. Rubber feet help reduce wear against the tank bottom.

• Get a couple of good, mini-baskets to hang in the main basket. Small, wire mesh baskets are available to put inside the main basket. These hold small parts such as screws, spacers, etc. Get a couple sizes of these hanging, opening baskets so you can put small parts into the machine. The main basket is only for medium and lager parts.

• Get a machine with a heater and a thermometer. Heat makes a big difference in washing parts. Get a machine with a heater and a thermometer. You can custom set the heat level to the part you are cleaning.

• Get a machine with a sturdy, easy-to-access on-off switch. Some machines have large, flip switches on the back that make it easy to quickly see if the power is on to the machine, and easy to turn off in a hurry. 

• Follow the directions carefully. These machines need a certain minimum amount of water to function correctly. Make sure you know how much water you must add. It helps also if there is a max-fill line so you don't over-fill the machine. 

• Wipe-out the machine after each use. Very dirty parts will cause gunk to build up in the bottom of the machine. After draining, make sure you wipe out gunk on the bottom. Be careful - the machine may still be hot. 

• Work up a routine with your cleaning solution. After awhile, you'll get a feel for cleaning solutions that work. I use a mixture of water and Simple Green cleaner. I also spray parts with Dawn Power Wash dish soap and let them sit a few minutes before putting into the tank. You don't need harsh or toxic chemicals to wash. 

• Always shut down the machine fully when leaving it unattended for long periods. I don't recommend putting wash in and then going to the grocery or hardware store. Stay close by while the machine is working and on. If you have to leave, shut down the machine and return to work later. You don't want a fire or electrical problem while you are away. 

• Be careful of hot parts. Parts will be warm or even hot when they come out of the machine. Don't burn yourself on the parts or water. Do not use flammable chemicals in the cleaner. Stick with water and a household type cleaner such as dish soap, Simple Green, etc. A little citrus or purple de-greaser can be added to the mix for very dirty parts. Stick with water-based cleaners that are not too harsh to handle. Also, be careful of painted parts in the machine. Some paint finishes may become compromised by heat and cleaner. Check on the parts periodically to make sure they are not losing their finish. 

History: English Bicycles on WWII Airbases

 

British RAF Airmen with Bicycles and Lancaster Bomber

When people talk about military bikes in World War II, hobbyists often think immediately of the BSA Paratrooper folding bikes, or perhaps the American-made Westfield paratrooper folding bikes. People tend to think first of elite paratroopers dropping behind enemy lines just before D-Day, unfolding their bikes, and then bravely completing their missions under cover of darkness.  

What often is forgotten is that the majority of bicycles serving with the allies during the war were far more mundane, civilian-style roadsters pressed into service on army bases and airbases. These bikes did not equip elite paratroopers, rather they served as hard-working, daily transportation for mechanics, airmen, soldiers, and officers.  These bikes often stand out in old, black-and-white photos with their dark paint and white-tipped rear fenders.

American airmen with damaged B-17 on their roadsters

Some of these English bikes were produced during wartime as stripped-down models. Others were pre-war civilian bikes pressed into service. Some bikes were cable brake Sports models. Other bikes used in this way were rod brake roadsters or cargo bikes for delivering supplies, parts, or mail. Caliper brake sporting bikes and rod brake roadsters seem to have been popular with both RAF and USAAF airmen, and soldiers in British Army and the U.S. Army. 

American armorers prepare a P-47 fighter, with an English roadster bike

 

English roadsters at an allied base

The Americans certainly brought some of their own bikes with them. Balloon tire bike enthusiasts often seek out military-specific balloon tire bikes, such as an olive drab colored Westfield. While American-made balloon tire military bikes certainly also played a role, far more common was the basic English roadster from before the war, pressed into service as an all-purpose transport on the American or British base. 

Commonwealth forces on rod brake roadsters

These English bikes lived hard lives, often being parked against buildings or fences and left out in the weather. They were utilitarian vehicles for life on the base. Many must have had inner tubes patched many-times over... But these bicycles satisfied the need for reliable transportation in a difficult time of war and privation in England. We should not forget the vital supporting role they played in the allied war effort, often behind the scenes. 

American airmen with English roadsters and a B-17 bomber

These hard-working roadsters and sporting bikes pressed into service were popular with soldiers and airmen, to the point that there was a mini-boom in English bikes in the USA after the war ended. Soldiers and airmen who enjoyed these bicycles in England thought they might also be useful back at home in the USA. Although this increase in popularity did not last, we should not forget the important role English utility bikes played in the allied effort to defeat nazi Germany and fascist Italy between 1939 and 1945. 

Base personnel with Lancaster bomber and English bicycles

 

Airmen head to their planes among parked English bicycles

 

Australian RAF aircrew with Lancaster bomber and English bicycle

RAF bomber with English roadster parked next to it

 

U.S. aircrew member on an airbase with his English bike

 

This isn't "downsizing"... 1949 - 50 Schwinn New World

 

I had hoped 2026 would be a year of somewhat downsizing my collection. So far it has not unfolded that way; because over the weekend I acquired this beautiful Schwinn New World. 

Nice bike in a nice color...

This was a Facebook Market purchase from a very nice, fellow collector in New York state. For this bike a family member joined me (not the Mrs this time - she only volunteers for runs where the bike is leaving rather than arriving) for a road trip from my home in Connecticut to the Hudson valley area of New York. The seller was located along the edge where the base of the Catskills meet the Hudson River Valley.  It's a beautiful area, but is very cold and windy this time of the year...

With the trip made and the bike purchased, what we find is a beautiful example of a late production New World. The frame size is nominally 21 inches on 26-inch wheels, with the tape actually showing a 22-inch frame in practice (as is common on these post-war New Worlds). The machine-stamped serial number on the bottom bracket looks to be from 1949, perhaps fall 1949. That would make this bike a late 1949 or early 1950 model bicycle. 

Welded seam on the bottom bracket and machine-stamped serial

 

As traditional New World bikes go, that is pretty late in the production run. In the early 1950s, Schwinn converted New Worlds over to the "World" style ornate winged frame graphics. 

Although the pre-war New Worlds have stronger collector cachet, I love the rider value of these post-war New Worlds because their frames tend to be a bit larger and their mixed welded and brazed construction make them quite robust. Parts are also easier to find for them than their pre-war cousins. In fact, I sold off all my pre-war Schwinn lightweights and kept the post-war ones because I think the ride value and parts availability is that much better.

Good graphics - hat-in-the-ring and Schwinn logo

The condition and the color caught my eye. It is the same color as my 1947 Continental. Most of the New Worlds that turn up from the late 1940s are black, red, or maroon with gold pinstripes. This Continental-style blue is a much less common color on the New Worlds (though common late 1940s Continentals). The saddle is from the 1960s or 70s. The stem and bars look to be off a late 1950s Racer. Paint, chrome, and graphics are in good shape. 

Frame is a mixture of welded and brazed, same as my 1947 frame. This has a later style chain guard with the hockey stick plus cable hook on top (my 1947 has the wing chain guard). Head set is the same style as my Superior and Continental - hexagonal nut type rather than the knurled cup/dish type.

 

Excellent condition - pinstripes visible still

The wheels are chromed Schwinn S6 (597mm). Hubs are Schwinn script front and New Departure coaster brake rear. I plan to build a second, rider wheel set for this bike from quality, vintage parts. I'll use a 3-speed Sturmey Archer rear hub and add Schwinn-built, correct hand brakes. 

This bike adds to a family of early post-war (1945-50) Schwinn lightweights I own currently. 

• 1947 New World
• 1947 Continental
• 1949-50 New World
• 1950 Superior 

They're great riding bikes and emblematic of that early post-war period when Schwinn was trying to keep pace with the growing number of British-made imported lightweights from the likes of Raleigh, Hercules Cycle, and BSA. Adult-oriented lightweights had a relatively strong niche in the American market in the years following WWII (unfortunately, this did not last very long...). 

I've been an advocate of these American-made touring bikes for quite a few years. These bikes are often overlooked today because they fall between the cracks of various collector markets. Schwinn collectors often collect balloon tire and middleweight bicycles because of the deluxe accessories and pre-war and mid-century designs. Collectors of lightweight road bikes gravitate toward higher end imported bikes made from Reynolds tubing and alloy components. In between fall these American-made lightweights that don't quite connect with either market. They're still great bikes and very affordable classics today.

So this isn't really "downsizing"... is it? Perhaps I will still find a bike or two to sell or donate to offset this New World's arrival. I showed the Mrs the New World and the response was "that's nice... now which one is leaving?". I get the sense other collectors know the feeling... new year new acquisition... same collection. I suppose she's right, in a way. You can only ride them one at a time...

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