MKS 3000S model pedals are a good option for both English and American 3-speed style bikes. MKS produces the 3000S with both a 9/16 axle (good for English 3-speeds) and a 1/2 inch axle (good for American bikes, like a Schwinn 3-speed).
It has been said by a number of people that the MKS pedals are generally well-made, but that from the factory, they tend to be over-tightened and under-greased.So I decided to take a look for myself. I have one set of new MKS 3000S going on my 1949/50 Schwinn Superior and I have another set of 3000S that have one season's worth of ride time on them for my 1960s Schwinn Racer.
The results of opening up the pedals were encouraging: the new pedals had an adequate amount of grease. They didn't have as much as I would have used, and it was not as good a grease as I would use, but I would call it "adequate" and not something where you should feel compelled to open them up brand new. The pedals with one season of ride time on them had a little wear, but nothing unusual. Again, the grease was adequate and the pedals spun freely.
So that brings us to the question of how to overhaul the 3000S or 3000R type pedals. It turns out that it's not all that hard. The pedals have 11 bearings in the inner cup, and 11 bearings in the outer cup. The bearings are of a loose type and not caged. The factory grease is a basic, amber type that is a little sticky and not "slick" the way green Lucas grease would be.
First, remove the two nuts over the outer plate.Then remove the outer place - it will slide off over the pedal block spindles.
Second, unscrew (counter-clockwise) the lock nut. It helps if you set the axle flat in a small vise to do this.
Fourth, unscrew the the outer cone (counter-clockwise).
Fifth, remove the core assembly from the vise while holding it together. Do not allow the core axle and the "dogbone" shell to separate because the bearings will try to come out everywhere. Instead, remove the whole thing from the vise as a unit, then carefully disassemble over a paper towel or work bench so that the bearings don't get all over the place.
Sixth, clean and check all bearings, cups, and cones.
Seventh, re-grease with a good quality grease. I use Lucas green grease.
Eighth, Now we can reassmble. Place the bearings in the cups at the ends of the dogbone shaped shell. Push the axle core and the dogbone with the bearings together so that the bearings in the inner cup stay put.
Ninth, carefully replace the assembly in the vise, taking especial care not to let the bearings run out of the inner cup.
Tenth, screw down the outer cone so that the bearings are now all held in check. Carefully set the tension of the cone so that the bearings turn freely, but that there is not excessive play (too loose) or binding (too tight).
Eleventh, push on the lock spacer and then tighten down the lock nut. You may have to fiddle with both the lock nut and the cone nut to get the final tension you want.
Twelfth, slide
the cage with the rubber blocks onto the pedal core, replace the outer
plate, and then screw down the outer nuts on the block spindles.
Theother nice thing about these pedals is that they are wide enough to make up for a slightly narrow "Q" factor or width between one's feet on the Older Raleighs. The non servicable Raleigh pedals were German and not as wide as the older British ones that could be completely rebuilt like the MKS here.
ReplyDeleteI'm a big fan of the MKS 3000S and 3000R series of pedals in general. The blocks are pretty generously sized, they're rebuildable, and the construction is conventional enough that they're a straightforward fix with basic hand tools. The price is usually pretty good too.
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