Saturday, September 23, 2023

Thoughts on Basic Maintenance and "Refresher Rides"

Old bikes benefit from being occasionally ridden. Left to sit, their tires go flat, grease can dry up, and oil can migrate to one area. That's not to mention the dust and other junk that accumulates when the bike sits. 

 


 Here's an example. I took my 1958 Raleigh Sports out for a nice ride a couple of days ago. It rides as nicely as ever, and the four-speed FW hub gives a nice, low gear ratio for climbing hills. I haven't ridden this bicycle since probably May or June. Much of my summer has been devoted to repairing bikes and then riding the newly repaired bikes on the road. This allows me to iron out any final adjustments. The downside is that long-time favorites like this 1958 Sports tend to sit while I'm getting work done on more recent bikes.

 My clean-up routine:

  • Wipe down the bike with a clean rag. A little water on the rag helps clean the bike but is still pretty gentle on the paint and graphics.
  • Airing up the tires, inspect for cracking or damage.
  • Add a few drops of oil to each hub (don't overdo it). 
  • Add a drop of oil to each brake caliper.
  • Make sure that any battery powered lights have good batteries. 
  • Make sure the bulbs work too...
  • Once per season, add a little Proofhide or similar to leather saddles.
  • Check that any frame pump has a good seal and pushes air. 
  • Once per season, check and clean/lubricate the chain.

 


Thankfully these bikes don't need a lot of involved maintenance - just the basics will do usually. Once you have a routine like this down, it only takes a few minutes. 

Rather than stashing a bike away for months and months, it's good to take a refresher ride on the bike every so often, even if it's not an everyday rider.


Monday, September 18, 2023

Bibliography: Helpful Sources for Information on Old Bikes

 

 

Below is a list of sources I find particularly useful for dealing with old bikes. Links are included for the online, free sources. Some sources require a subscription and some are print only. With a couple of exceptions, this list generally does not include discussion areas and blogs.


Old Bikes Reference Sites and Libraries:

 The Veteran Cycle Club library (online, member subscription)

Sheldon Brown (online, free)

Society of Three Speeds (online, free) 

The Online Bicycle Museum (online, free)
 

 

Sturmey Archer:

Hub of the Universe: the Sturmey Archer Story by Tony Hadland (print only, book)

Sturmey Archer Heritage (online, free)

Hadland's Blog (Tony Hadland) (online, free) 

Sturmey Archer Trigger Shifters, 1938-60, by Martin Hanczyc (online, free)



Raleigh:

Raleigh Past and Presence by Tony Hadland (print only, book)

The Headbadge: Raleigh Sports Reference pages (online, free)

The Headbadge: Raleigh Catalog Archive (online, free)

The Story of the Raleigh Bicycle, by Gregory Bowden (print only, book)

Retro Raleighs, Archive, at Sheldon Brown (online, free)

For the Love of English Three Speeds discussion (online, free)

 

 

Schwinn:

CABE Schwinn New World topic (Schwinn New World Bikes - We Know You Have Them, online, free)

Waterford Schwinn catalog archive (online, free)

Schwinn Tech & Spec Guide, Electro-Forged Schwinns, by Geoff Greene (print only, book) 

Fifty Years of Schwinn Built Bicycles by Arnold, Schwinn & Co. (print only?)

 

 

Those sources get me through most of what I need. Tony Hadland's printed work in particular is first-rate if you are into Raleighs or Sturmey Archer parts.

Wednesday, September 13, 2023

 Just a quick shot of a ride last evening on this 1940 Raleigh Model 35 light roadster. This basic three speed is a great rider. It was a dry, very pleasant evening to ride. Otherwise, we're back to the deluge of rain today...



Tuesday, September 12, 2023

Straightening a Bent Bicycle Brake Caliper

 Occasionally, brake calipers become bent. Calipers get bent a number of different ways: bicycle falls over, caliper is used when not sufficiently tightened, bicycle wheel turns and front caliper hits frame, etc.

In this case, I have a 1950s era Schwinn Approved Weinmann 810 front caliper. The upper horn of the caliper has become bent. I suspect this bend is the result of the front wheel being jarred or turning too much, such that the upper horn bashed into the down tube. Given the extreme durability of welded Schwinn frames and the fact that the brake caliper is aluminum, it is no surprise that it would be the caliper giving way in that case.

 


 But all is not lost - the caliper can be straightened. The work is not complicated, but you must still exercise care. 

Disassemble the caliper and put the piece in a vise. If you are worried about damaging a polished brake caliper, Wooden shims can help pad the vise jaws so as not to mar the piece. Otherwise, make sure the vise has a good grip on the piece, but don't gorilla the vise so as to crush. It helps to place the piece in a vise fairly close to the bend you wait to straighten. That way, you don't put an S-bend into the piece by pulling in the wrong spot.

The caliper is gently heated using a small propane torch. Even one of the small butane torches will do the trick. You're not melting anything or getting anything super hot - you just want to warm the metal a bit. It's not so much that this prevents cracking, but more that it makes the metal a little easier to bend. That way, you can be as gentle as possible getting the arm straight again.


 

A pair of channel lock pliers with a couple thin wooden shims helps bend the arm straight again. Go slowly and use just barely enough force to move the arm back into position. 

It's important that you do this process only once - you don't want to go too far and have to re-bend in the other direction. That weakens the piece.

Steel calipers tend to be more forgiving than aluminum ones, but both metals will punish you if get heavy-handed and end up having to bend and re-bend the piece. Aluminum tends to punish you for mistakes faster than steel, but you should be careful and go slowly with both types of metal.

While in the vise, you can also make any other adjustments you need - fore/aft arm angle, initial tow-in, etc. Final tweaks like fine toe-in adjustments, can be made on the bike in final assembly.

Once everything is straight, you can clean, polish, and rebuild your calipers.


 


Saturday, September 9, 2023

Advanced Tip: Adapting a Schwinn Rear Fender to a Taller Frame

 This entry is intended mainly as notation for people deeply into Schwinn three speeds. The goal is to understand the adaptation of a "standard" rear fender (suited to the 21-22 inch frame) to a "tall" frame (23-24 inch frame) bike.


 

Many of the English three speed bikes use a generic fender set among the models with 26 inch wheels. The rear fender adapts to differences in the frame size using a part called a "bridge clip". This clip can be placed almost anywhere along the fender, allowing a proper connection to the rear brake bolt. It is not difficult to take a good rear fender from a donor bike and to move or change the bridge clip so that it is placed correctly for a different sized frame.

Schwinn three speed bikes do not generally use bridge clips. Instead, the mounting point for the rear brake bolt is a simple L-bracket riveted into place. The result is that the rear fender is set up for a specific frame size. Finding fenders for standard size frames (21-22 inch) is not overly difficult. But finding fenders for tall frames (23-24 inch) is very difficult.

The result is that on the Schwinn, unlike the Raleigh, you need to re-position the L-bracket to fit the taller frame. 

There are two solutions to this problem. 

 

Solution 1: Remove L-Bracket, Add Bridge Clip (Raleigh Sports Style)

The first solution is to remove the L-bracket and replace it with a bridge clip similar to how the English Raleigh bikes, like the Sports, work. Drill out the rivet holding the L-bracket, and then loosely mount the bridge clip. Then mount up all the other connection points for the rear fender and determine your bridge clip final position. The advantage of this system is that you can custom-fit the fender to get the best positioning relative to your wheel. 

I did exactly this on my 1959 Traveler. A smooth-headed "riv-screw" serves as a plug to fill the empty hole where the L-bracket was. I smooth down the riv-screw head to blend it into the fender. The bridge clip hides pretty well under the rear brake caliper and in the seat stays.



 

Solution 2: Drill a New Hole and Relocate Your Schwinn L-Bracket

Option 2 is to relocate the L-bracket position to a new and correct position. I have a 1957 Traveler where it appears this was previously done. I thought at first this was an adaptation by an earlier owner, but now I wonder, given how clean the work is, whether the factory did this. It is possible that tall frame three speed Schwinns in that era were rare enough that it was more economical to adapt standard-sized fenders to the unusual tall frame (rather than setting up machinery to make dedicated tall frame fenders). I've seen this same screw and flat retaining plate in still-sealed Schwinn parts bags. I'm now leaning toward this adaptation being stock from the factory. The plug/filler in the normal hole position is a Schwinn factory type flat rivet, another indication this may have been a factory adaptation for an unusually tall bike in 1957.

 


 


 The process is similar to the bridge clip method described above, but you need one more piece of information: where to locate the new L-bracket mount hole. I found that the L-bracket mount hole for the tall frame moves 1+1/8 inches, center-to-center, up the fender (the direction toward the rear of the fender).

Note - the rear of the fender is to the RIGHT


So those are your two methods to adapt "standard" Schwinn rear fenders to your tall frame three speed.

(1) you can use the Raleigh-style method of a bridge clip, which I think is easier.

(2) you can drill a new L-bracket hole and re-mount your L-bracket in the correct tall frame position. This is more in keeping with Schwinn's practices in fitting a rear fender, but requires getting that new hole position right. My measurement is the new hole should be 1+1/8 inch, center-to-center, farther back on the fender.



Thursday, September 7, 2023

1959 Schwinn Traveler, Some Talk about Wheelbuilding

I am at a point where I am fairly comfortable with this 1959 Schwinn Traveler three speed.

 


I ultimately went with a really nice, chrome-molybdenum seat post, which was nicer than the Wald one I previously had on the bike. 

Otherwise, I think the build-up of this bike went fairly well. The parts are all pretty good, and the painted areas of the bike cleaned up nicely. 

 

The wheels required some truing after the first couple of rides, but are settling in pretty well. I built up these wheels last winter from 1950s parts: Torrington spokes, Schwinn S6 rims, and period hubs.  There's always a "break in" period with wheels. After a handful of rides, I end up truing them again (sometimes truing them a couple of times), before they finally "settle". 

I originally learned to build wheels quite a number of years ago, thinking it would only be marginally useful on the rare occasion I needed to fix or true a wheel. I never thought I'd be building many sets of wheels. It's a winter hobby: I locate vintage parts for fairly cheap prices, then I build up wheels I think will be useful, or different from what I already have. When I have a project needing wheels, I have sets ready to go (usually). A good set of wheels revive an old bike, and can tailor a bike to your needs.

One other thing I notice is just how solid these old Schwinns are for descents. The weight, frame angles, and the fact that these bikes soak up bumps well make descents a lot of fun. True, they're slower up the hills than a Raleigh or anything of that sort, but heading down hill, they're rock solid and comfortable. When I am riding one, I never feel like I'm being bounced all over or that the bike is wandering as it picks up speed.

I'm sure in January, when it's 25 (-4 for the celsius people) and windy out, I'll look back at these pictures and wish it was September again...

 



Monday, September 4, 2023

Labor Day Weekend

 It's hard to believe the Labor Day weekend is over, and fall is on the way. We have a couple more weeks until fall truly begins, but the customary "summer season" is ending. We have some hot weather at hand, which makes for decent riding. I don't mind the heat. We have just a couple months left to the riding season here.


1949 Raleigh Clubman tourist / light roadster configuration - 8/30/23