Many old bicycles have fender. I love fenders and would not own
another bike without them. I think they add a lot in the way of looks
and function to a bicycle. They sort of make the "roadster" bike look
like it does. A nice set of fenders go a long way to improving how a
bike looks, not to mention handles wet conditions.
The
Schwinn New World bicycles have fenders, but they've taken a few dings.
Other spots on them need a little light reshaping. Removing dents from
bicycle fenders is more art than science, but with some practice and
care can be done reasonably well with household tools and patience.
Method 1: Fender Rolling
This
involves running the fender along the surface of a metal wheel pushed
up against a form. As the wheel turns, pressure between the form and the
wheel remove any dents. With care, such a wheel can quickly and easily
remove dents, leaving the fenders in a much improved condition. An
example of a roller can be seen below:
The
problem with rolling is that you need not only the roller, but the form
on the roller needs to match the fender you want to correct. A roller
for a balloon tire bike fender likely will not work very well for
someone wanting to roll a light weight fender, like those on the New
World. Moreover, "rain gutter" type fenders like you see on antique
bikes from the 1920s/30s, as well as Raleigh Dawn/Sports/Superbe won't
work very well either. I can't do fender rolling because I do not own a
roller.
Method 2: Pounding
Pounding
out dents with a ball peen hammer is nothing new. It's more an art than
a science and takes a certain touch. However, once you get a feel for
your piece and what kind of force is needed, you can work fenders into a
satisfactory shape using just a hammer and form/striking surface.
First,
I take a small wooden block and make a semi-circular cut into it
matching the contour and shape of the fender I want to work.
Second,
I take some WD40 and rub down both the inside and outside of the
fender. The creates a shine that will reveal where the dents are. The
dents will appear as below: a circular area of light with a little dark
ring around it. This is visible below: we see an area of round light
with a little ring of darkness. In this case the dent is obvious, but
that light pattern observation I mention is nice for finding the small
dents.
Third,
I flip the fender over and use the round side of the hammer head to
pound out the dent. I place the fender into the form and strike the
center of the dent. The force of the strike varies based on the depth of
the dent. I may have to put a couple more blows in to finish out the
dent after getting the center worked. As you can see below, the dent is
now gone, though an area of paint loss is present. Something must bumped
the bike, causing the dent and paint scrape. Now that the dent is gone,
I can come back later and cosmetically fix the paint loss.
Next, I do the rear fender. These fenders are the same contour, and the method is the same.
Fourth,
I find areas along the sides of the fenders that need help. Sometimes
an object strikes the fender from the side, causing the edge to be
curled inward. The fix on the New World fenders is devilishly simple-
use your hands. That's right, the fender metal is just mild steel sheet,
and if you have good, strong hands and a feel for the metal, you can
just thumb the edge back into shape.
Fifth,
if I needed to reshape the fender tips due to metal loss, I'd do that
as well. These fenders do not appear to need it. However, I did tip
shaping and grinding on the Raleigh Dawn Tourist project, which can be
seen here:
Shaping And Griding Fender Tips: October 2012
The results are not bad at all- the fenders are re-shaped and now ready for cosmetic work on the braces and paint.
Also:
I
took the opportunity to clean up the chainguard- a Schwinn feather
type. The decal has lost some condition, but it's still pretty nice for
original condition.
Question: After hammering out a dent would you ever use bondo in case the dent was rather large and the metal was stretched? Or will the fender shake and flex so much that it would just fall off, making bondo impractical?
ReplyDeleteI have not had to use Bondo in quite some time (probably 15 years or so ago) but the last time I used it on something, my experience was it had to be a relatively small area of use or it would just shake apart. This was on a Jeep fender I was fixing.
Delete