tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38411085292052261652024-03-26T12:43:12.313-04:00The Bike ShedVintage Bicycle Repair and Riding: American and English BicyclesThe Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.comBlogger576125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-24416773079109551212024-03-26T12:35:00.004-04:002024-03-26T12:42:37.902-04:00A Schwinn Traveler That Wasn't - Evolution Before Mass Production<p>In the early 1950s, the three speed and similar Schwinn lightweight/utility bikes had reached a cross roads. Schwinn's push in the late 1930s and into the 1940s to market British-style, Made-in-USA touring and utility bikes with to adults in the US had hit the market wall that was the late 1940s and early 1950s automotive boom.<br /></p><p>It was in this environment in the early 1950s that Schwinn revised its era three speed and utility bike offerings as well as the way it marketed those bikes. The New World and unusual post-war Superior (not to be confused with the upscale "Superior" made before WWII) were replaced. The upscale fillet brazed Continental was scaled back compared to its late 1940s version.</p><p>One of the bikes that stepped into this mid- and up-scale market void for Schwinn was the "Traveler" or "World Traveler" (not to be confused with much later World Traveler bikes made in Japan). </p><p>But the early ads for the Traveler are not quite the bike we know today. These early Travelers mixed elements of the earlier Continental with what we know today as Traveler type parts.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLS0iS1vQ3C9yQ-3XhCPtRvnpgTtdmA6JtpH-weHrRjmp5R6-LsDQFo8r2EsMOsQvYjSQleGNjSQcFc7gIXROTaptHFfCtsa8YWmntRBjchvnbE58edYifdfvkkDs_eou33rhTPWY99BzZd-KgbI0dapXmLQkjmc5QH3yd3BqwU6p-TRagxw2BZ6SObQ/s1600/Early%20Traveler%20Ad%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1193" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLS0iS1vQ3C9yQ-3XhCPtRvnpgTtdmA6JtpH-weHrRjmp5R6-LsDQFo8r2EsMOsQvYjSQleGNjSQcFc7gIXROTaptHFfCtsa8YWmntRBjchvnbE58edYifdfvkkDs_eou33rhTPWY99BzZd-KgbI0dapXmLQkjmc5QH3yd3BqwU6p-TRagxw2BZ6SObQ/w299-h400/Early%20Traveler%20Ad%202.jpg" width="299" /></a></div><p></p><p>Above we see what the Traveler might have started as, but ultimately what was never to be: a mixture of Continental and Traveler bike elements. The bike has the low-profile fenders styled after the Continental, as well as the three-arm chain ring of the Continental. But it also has the one-piece crank we associate with the Traveler. The bike also has the Sturmey Archer quadrant shifter we associate with 1940s Continental models, but the English-style accessories we associate with the Traveler. The head badge is round, similar to the Continental.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Qhv0AfF82F6aDYWIV0y0whJ1SOVoDCeIqcYQfn9QVMFf5xZTpOjELcYMH69UFZ6eM_6TxOriLmpIPGrNWgrU2yDei1igpbBVbFeO9jz77wOROEdWkVHeTgvsC4lhuLRp_jjpCVJOUySAKFzw-Jv8GVFJF5M-TqttGyjvrMu7gl_5x5hlDWsq_L8IZWw/s850/Early%20Traveler%20Ad.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="850" data-original-width="540" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Qhv0AfF82F6aDYWIV0y0whJ1SOVoDCeIqcYQfn9QVMFf5xZTpOjELcYMH69UFZ6eM_6TxOriLmpIPGrNWgrU2yDei1igpbBVbFeO9jz77wOROEdWkVHeTgvsC4lhuLRp_jjpCVJOUySAKFzw-Jv8GVFJF5M-TqttGyjvrMu7gl_5x5hlDWsq_L8IZWw/w254-h400/Early%20Traveler%20Ad.jpg" width="254" /></a></div><p></p><p>A second early ad shows the same bike - well, almost the same bike. The quadrant shifter is gone and now there is a handlebar shifter. Also note how the fenders are Continental in style but allegedly made of chrome rather than stainless steel, like the early production Travelers. <br /></p><p>These ads also show a shift from the more adult ads of the late 1940s, which showed stars such as Ronald Reagan and Humphrey Bogart on Continental models. These 1950s ads are more youth-oriented, even though the bikes still were diamond or step-over framed and could be ridden by adults. Schwinn sensed the way the market was headed in the 1950s. </p><p>In the end, this hybrid of the Continental and the Traveler was not to be. The Traveler underwent some changes and the production model we know today was different. The standard Schwinn "clover" chain ring was used, as were "shark blade" fenders similar to other Schwinn bikes. The first few years of Travelers had chrome fenders, while later in the 1950s they changed to stainless steel.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRwd7c7bUIGeN-n-E-7CJhkj6v7wm7TI42qdcxJJFv12_iMKPOqBPyaJh2rfcs4cdVysmpozF49VKavOTUkE-EzH9M7jBBE-TqjvtgSJfr7Kv9sa-HADeHvRK36Vq65Z-dzDuXJVPQyWUo7MDSnuQNSAidTBruycr-ZCHX1F-Qrxfx56W2rQhXpsO_vE/s665/Traveler%20ad%201952.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="412" data-original-width="665" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRwd7c7bUIGeN-n-E-7CJhkj6v7wm7TI42qdcxJJFv12_iMKPOqBPyaJh2rfcs4cdVysmpozF49VKavOTUkE-EzH9M7jBBE-TqjvtgSJfr7Kv9sa-HADeHvRK36Vq65Z-dzDuXJVPQyWUo7MDSnuQNSAidTBruycr-ZCHX1F-Qrxfx56W2rQhXpsO_vE/w400-h248/Traveler%20ad%201952.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>The ad above has a student-oriented motif and shows the production Traveler we are familiar with today. This includes the clover chain ring, finned front fender and handlebar shifter. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4N9jvheKebPVRVTCGJt6NC01wpLuAcw4mcesdTJtfp1TeJWfiae-IQ1b98FUwVZfDvc0u9QyqLfzddiiCXLBrVqjDtKpRJTsbz9Ir9w9aWd8sMIzn_3VD_4JOOjppEABpMQkmQ3WdyaA/s800/20160731_145312.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4N9jvheKebPVRVTCGJt6NC01wpLuAcw4mcesdTJtfp1TeJWfiae-IQ1b98FUwVZfDvc0u9QyqLfzddiiCXLBrVqjDtKpRJTsbz9Ir9w9aWd8sMIzn_3VD_4JOOjppEABpMQkmQ3WdyaA/w400-h225/20160731_145312.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>As with so many other bikes, the Traveler evolved between its initial design on paper to its mass production form in the early 1950s.<br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-82902037369391846562024-03-14T23:19:00.005-04:002024-03-14T23:21:07.026-04:00Bike Service Records - Charts<p>If you have more than a couple old bicycles, perhaps you could benefit from a service history chart. A detailed chart can keep track of when each major system was serviced on the bike. Here is an example of the chart I use, which is meant specifically for old-style bikes with internal gear hubs.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge55sLyaPKrH76aoVp1OcPHHAbj8v7lDOTC4KUcFPonzwk2jTjQKA8Y4Ozx3H7ELYvVD0Fe6zlYEZTJnWlSrnbFBNz3ymMxBrAfu3epffy9cvaxJCphqwX5391deB1j-SQ_01X1jnT7sDSPD_5dg1omp3EAnVzkwsTGmHcj73ivqULGyNvm_8cSejTCso/s1543/blank%20chart.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="779" data-original-width="1543" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge55sLyaPKrH76aoVp1OcPHHAbj8v7lDOTC4KUcFPonzwk2jTjQKA8Y4Ozx3H7ELYvVD0Fe6zlYEZTJnWlSrnbFBNz3ymMxBrAfu3epffy9cvaxJCphqwX5391deB1j-SQ_01X1jnT7sDSPD_5dg1omp3EAnVzkwsTGmHcj73ivqULGyNvm_8cSejTCso/w400-h203/blank%20chart.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>I use Microsoft Excel or Apache Open Office to build my charts. They both are equally effective for this task. Open Office has the advantage of being relatively simple, and free to download.</p><p>Different types of bikes have different charts. But the gist is the same: mark down the date each of the major systems on the bike was last serviced. </p><p>As a bonus, a notes column can help you keep track of parts swaps you've done in the past or estimated mileages at different times; another column can remind you whether you want to keep or sell a bike (or buy it, if you are borrowing or renting the bike).</p><p> Other columns can keep track of tire sizes needed, as well as frame and wheel sizes on a particular bike. <br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-12876299293133492542024-02-27T11:59:00.008-05:002024-02-27T12:00:45.762-05:00A Note on Grease and Vintage Sturmey Archer Hubs<p>Quite awhile back I discussed my recommendations for oiling vintage Sturmey Archer hubs. These are the old style hubs with oil caps, which allow the user to periodically put oil in the hub. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDehH33362cttQYqcgbyK122zmd0fw3Tx5dUa91em32Mb1YqRjTAi-QtRt1G0kiG615yLPVCj89NZSDpl-mqJEUDEx2gqv-JtGfqV01K5o5fgD_YhdMjNZUaWWMytBmaDrHs2ZDueOcl_SDIJW9c7f8uT1oXKax2pllEifFU0ppUj90dg6pGlEiuKQSVA/s2615/20240225_161709.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2615" data-original-width="2200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDehH33362cttQYqcgbyK122zmd0fw3Tx5dUa91em32Mb1YqRjTAi-QtRt1G0kiG615yLPVCj89NZSDpl-mqJEUDEx2gqv-JtGfqV01K5o5fgD_YhdMjNZUaWWMytBmaDrHs2ZDueOcl_SDIJW9c7f8uT1oXKax2pllEifFU0ppUj90dg6pGlEiuKQSVA/w336-h400/20240225_161709.jpg" width="336" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>Modern Sturmey Archer hubs, some of which are mechanically similar to old hubs, use a semi-fluid (called NLGI #00 grade) grease rather than light oil for lubrication. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://interlub.com/img/calculadora/en/grasas.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="621" data-original-width="726" height="342" src="https://interlub.com/img/calculadora/en/grasas.png" width="400" /></a></div><p>In fact, semi-fluid NLGI #00 grease can be used in vintage Sturmey Archer hubs as well. The trade-off is that in order to properly grease the hub, you need to open up the hub, break it down, clean it, and then re-assemble using the right amount of grease. The hardcore internal gear hub fanatics would have no problem doing that.</p><p>The advantages of a total tear down and full grease treatment are that service intervals are stretched out, the grease tends to stay in place better once you've put it in the hub, and routine oiling is basically eliminated. The disadvantages are the work of tearing down, cleaning, and re-greasing the hub and semi-fluid grease is not always available from the local hardware store (my local shop had some at one time, but then stopped carrying it). </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSnlfBm_uvkzjJ1REyutqMFWwP8ykwXUj7qrhogWDrKRxiZiVi6fxhDqX5Bs5DCBrvNWCAMT4ME99B93g4JW8M8E3YuMAc4ddVkGxiuEHEhaXvfjpqofJFr0txC7fooow0iXdRsYYNKfqL-RdI7PblyRGoZ79YcHCKLwy4Tuca7zrdySOoaXpkKwAD7sE/s406/green.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="372" data-original-width="406" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSnlfBm_uvkzjJ1REyutqMFWwP8ykwXUj7qrhogWDrKRxiZiVi6fxhDqX5Bs5DCBrvNWCAMT4ME99B93g4JW8M8E3YuMAc4ddVkGxiuEHEhaXvfjpqofJFr0txC7fooow0iXdRsYYNKfqL-RdI7PblyRGoZ79YcHCKLwy4Tuca7zrdySOoaXpkKwAD7sE/s320/green.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> The commonly available "green" grease I use (Lucas or Blaster brand usually) is a medium-grade grease (NLGI #2). It is too thick to use throughout a vintage Sturmey hub, such as an AW or FW. I am using this grease on the outer bearings in the main cups, and a modest amount of it in the ball ring bearings inside the ball ring. These areas of the hub respond and seal up reasonably well with the common green grease.<p></p><p>For the core of the hub, I use 20 weight oil. My oil of choice is, as I've said many times before, 3-in-1 "blue" bottle oil, that is, the little bottle with the word "motor" or the little drawing of a motor on it. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFZau1nkaXhp7QLS0GeHOzCtj4jN4Cy6yW_IVF978nqlytuB_q4Yrv8eub94DHYOXmT9jD64xTmj2E8PX1jc2zJud6bfPRReh1EQNGjEolWqL4aquVu6oF0iW3oHk5IJuwMPPsqgFlVODWecd14vf2UPdgxs3WW8j8hdu73la9l2Vfw_jAlNrLs-Hp3x8/s377/blue.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="377" data-original-width="349" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFZau1nkaXhp7QLS0GeHOzCtj4jN4Cy6yW_IVF978nqlytuB_q4Yrv8eub94DHYOXmT9jD64xTmj2E8PX1jc2zJud6bfPRReh1EQNGjEolWqL4aquVu6oF0iW3oHk5IJuwMPPsqgFlVODWecd14vf2UPdgxs3WW8j8hdu73la9l2Vfw_jAlNrLs-Hp3x8/s320/blue.JPG" width="296" /></a></div> I like this combination because your oil and grease can usually be bought from the local hardware store, the grease seals in the light oil reasonably well, and the oil is thin enough penetrate into the small spaces in the center of the hub. Routine oiling frequency is reduced but not eliminated entirely. I like this combination of factors, and I think the average mechanic and user of these hubs benefits from the convenience. <p></p><p>But please don't assume this is the <i>only</i> way to lubricate the hub. I know of advanced mechanics who prefer a full semi-fluid grease treatment and do well with it. There is more than one "right" answer to lubricating your hub. I just happen to like the ease and versatility of common green grease in the bearings and 20-weight oil in the hub core.<br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-36189143067899628252024-02-25T23:06:00.003-05:002024-02-26T09:28:11.363-05:00Advanced Sturmey Repair: Replacing Left Hand Ball Cups on Old AW and FW Hubs<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDASKaT87QGtkgDZQDkHllYQCqvfC1cdAHeT9-jWD2ZZ2d9BVzzn2yoKoKD4Tfzf_Fpz0brsj3PKyHhW1XQ3Aj4TYcUf8v3g6lYfzkuhfaUT2_0SfQ50uqhXDGcuSe6wuj85DM5A-Gb-LZoUCw-P0AjRXqtM7nl_WqOpU6zFQxon9ZzD13Gqol1zXxQWg/s3510/pic-47.1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2550" data-original-width="3510" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDASKaT87QGtkgDZQDkHllYQCqvfC1cdAHeT9-jWD2ZZ2d9BVzzn2yoKoKD4Tfzf_Fpz0brsj3PKyHhW1XQ3Aj4TYcUf8v3g6lYfzkuhfaUT2_0SfQ50uqhXDGcuSe6wuj85DM5A-Gb-LZoUCw-P0AjRXqtM7nl_WqOpU6zFQxon9ZzD13Gqol1zXxQWg/w400-h290/pic-47.1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>This entry discusses a somewhat more advanced repair to older Sturmey Archer hubs: removal and replacement of the left (non-drive) side ratchet ring. This part is called the "left hand side ball cup" in the old diagrams (see above - part K517). </p><p>Why would you want to do this? It allows you to save an older hub that has left (non-drive) side cup issues, replacing the ratchet ring and bearing cup as a unit. This work applies to older Sturmey Archer AW and FW hubs that have flatted ratchets. This is a good fix if you have a pre-war AW hub that needs a refresh, for example. In the early 1960s, the hubs switched to a press-in left hand ball cup. <b>This article refers to the earlier hubs with threaded and flatted left hand ball cups</b>. <br /></p><p>There are two ways to replace the non-drive side ratchet ring and bearing cup. The first is if the hub is laced into a wheel, you can use the wheel and a heavy-duty vise to spin off the ratchet ring and cup from the hub shell. The second method is if the hub is not laced into a wheel, you can use the Gentleman Cyclist ball ring tool, heavy duty-vise, and a 15-inch adjustable wrench to spin off the non-drive ratchet ring and cup.</p><p><b>CAUTION:</b> This a job for the "advanced" Sturmey Archer enthusiast because it requires some heavy-duty tools and an understanding of how the older AW or FW hub works.</p><p> </p><p><b>You'll Need:</b><br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Heavy-duty bench with a bolt-down vise.</li><li>Propane Torch</li><li>Loosening oil (I like Kano Kroil)</li><li>15-inch adjustable wrench (if hub is not laced into a wheel)</li><li>Gentleman Cyclist ball ring tool (if hub is not laced into a wheel) </li></ul><p><b>If the Hub is Laced into a Wheel:</b></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Using the Sturmey Archer hub instructions, remove the innards of the hub<b> </b>so that you are down to just the hub shell and the non-drive ratchet ring<b>/</b>cup<b> </b>(called the "left hand ball cup", part no. K517 in the diagram below). Fix the hub into the vise by tightening the jaws around the flats of the left hand ball cup.<br /></li></ul><p> <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJMT41XWRAviysjE06jV_K3mKsbxIphEOjhw3C5ltVLzA7MarYow0c23Rq0jQqoovOEUGOUNKQeasqtWZ5yAQYlAXRStICfL8bG9LLEkyspsp2sxhcEXBsuoPZmdaw5CodIqA-IB1TVlYHVgCntxTJLD0UppWEOEbE1J6-6ohHEz-sLdDs0wpCyKX52yE/s3510/pic-47.1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2550" data-original-width="3510" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJMT41XWRAviysjE06jV_K3mKsbxIphEOjhw3C5ltVLzA7MarYow0c23Rq0jQqoovOEUGOUNKQeasqtWZ5yAQYlAXRStICfL8bG9LLEkyspsp2sxhcEXBsuoPZmdaw5CodIqA-IB1TVlYHVgCntxTJLD0UppWEOEbE1J6-6ohHEz-sLdDs0wpCyKX52yE/w400-h290/pic-47.1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b> </b>Dribble some of your creeping oil inside the hub shell, focusing on the area where the left hand ball cup threads into the inner surface of the shell.</li><li>Gradually and evenly heat the outside of the hub shell in the area where the left hand ball cup threads in. Warm that area until you start to see little bubbles in your oil inside the hub. Caution - do not overheat the oil, hub, or spokes.<br /></li><li>Let it cool. Repeat the cycle of oil, heat, and cool once or twice more.</li><li>Using the wheel as leverage, spin the wheel clockwise (the left hand ball cup is left-hand threaded). If the left hand ball cup will not spin off, repeat the heat/oil/cool cycle again.</li><li>Once the left hand ball cup is loosened, spin the wheel so that it frees from the left hand ball cup. Replace the left hand ball cup with a good cup by mounting the good cup into the vise and spinning the wheel counter clockwise until tight.<br /></li></ul><p><br /></p><p><b>What if the Hub is Not Mounted into a Wheel?</b></p><p>If the hub is not mounted into a wheel, you'll also need the Gentleman Cyclist ball ring tool<b> </b>and a heavy-duty wrench. I like to use a 15-inch adjustable wrench.</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Remove the hub innards from the hub. Place the Gentleman Cyclist Ball Ring Tool into the vise as you would to mount a ball ring. </li><li>Put the hub shell into the vise, tightening the jaws around the flats on the left side ball cup (K517 in the diagrams above).</li><li>Dribble your oil into the inside of the shell, focusing the oil on the threads where the left side ball cup joins the inside of the hub shell.</li><li>Heat the outside of the hub shell using a propane torch evenly and gently around where the left hand ball cup threads in. Keep heating until you see little bubbles in the oil inside the hub. Let cool. Do not allow the oil to burn or smoke off.<br /></li><li>Repeat the oil/heat/cool cycle once or twice more.<br /></li><li>When sufficiently cool to handle (caution - hub may still be somewhat hot) mount a drive-side (right side) ball ring into the hub shell using the tool. [I assume that if you have this tool, you know how to use it to put in a drive side ball ring already.] This is part K60 in the diagrams above.<br /></li><li> Now you should have a hub shell with a left hand ball cup on one side and a right hand ball cup on the other, but without anything else in it. The hub should be resting upside down - with the drive side ball ring in the Gentleman Cyclist Tool. The non-drive side ball ring flats should be facing upward.</li><li>Attach your large adjustable wrench to the flats on the non-drive side cup which is facing upward. Make sure the notches of the drive side ball ring, which is facing downward, are firmly in the Gentleman Cyclist Tool.</li><li>Begin to turn the wrench clockwise (the non-drive side ball ring is left hand threaded). Apply gradually more and more force until the ring gives and begins to spin off. </li><li>If the ring won't move even with great force, repeat the oil/heat/cool cycle for those inside threads as stated above.</li><li>Once loose, spin off the non-drive side cup and replace with a good cup. It will thread in counter-clockwise because it is left hand threaded.</li></ul><p><b>Photos</b>:</p><p> Below: an illustration of the oiling the hub. This hub shell is not in a wheel, and the innards have been removed. At this point all I have is the hub shell, the left side ball cup, and the right side ball cup in place. I have dribbled oil down the inside wall of the hub and into the joint between the left hand ball cup and the hub threads.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNcbfhsp9ax_sAQyWEQLElezyqEvLQizw5AJMZTvkwZJhYkN0G-xEav6NTUV3tvsYI_UXKG6gy9Hf4gcDRCVIN3V77oQgltE_2e6zLFp32FgvyIzkDsAShWoHdWZ3az-nbBtbPHpy7yeS5gWh0B_anclgkw362xElPMZ5ZqhKlloT67SbdKaVjK-MEpdE/s4000/20240225_140522.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNcbfhsp9ax_sAQyWEQLElezyqEvLQizw5AJMZTvkwZJhYkN0G-xEav6NTUV3tvsYI_UXKG6gy9Hf4gcDRCVIN3V77oQgltE_2e6zLFp32FgvyIzkDsAShWoHdWZ3az-nbBtbPHpy7yeS5gWh0B_anclgkw362xElPMZ5ZqhKlloT67SbdKaVjK-MEpdE/w300-h400/20240225_140522.jpg" width="300" /></a></div></div><div></div><div><br /></div><div>Below: here is the outside of what I have: hub shell with both the left ball cup and right ball cup mounted. The flats of the left side ball cup are gripped in the vise jaws. <br /></div><div> </div><div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtB7WFOtptBDIDBUBSyCLWmdLRISImcjCcppSO-01_hC3k-z0ejzQQCQkMeh4eN_YJVqfAJuoLuJv7H6mPJiBaQyWFdf9lX55688aJf526XCAbc9GE9XzgThZ1ekX9-VzpMcOLNQ49HY3xw5SFqj8YzFEW19MjBjbSZmuCK2jq-8yQ81ja0EWapEZWW0U/s2706/20240225_140540.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2266" data-original-width="2706" height="335" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtB7WFOtptBDIDBUBSyCLWmdLRISImcjCcppSO-01_hC3k-z0ejzQQCQkMeh4eN_YJVqfAJuoLuJv7H6mPJiBaQyWFdf9lX55688aJf526XCAbc9GE9XzgThZ1ekX9-VzpMcOLNQ49HY3xw5SFqj8YzFEW19MjBjbSZmuCK2jq-8yQ81ja0EWapEZWW0U/w400-h335/20240225_140540.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p> I then apply the torch evenly around the base of the shell, where the
oil is sitting in the left ball cup threads. I heat until the oil
bubbles, but stop before it burns or smokes out. I then let it cool, and
that helps draw the oil down deeper into the threads.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4MjpeoRLOQ_KZkVjU9uNWZTasog3ENI_jwff6zIFZHBna8uoa4allwB4IBdJIKXrn54zrHWzj8W3lK9q51bqv03k8mSd-1HrOkk-73ozlUFk9TMa33uYKSKYXK3TVSD2WHT2x8ZaYRrnMGlsCtJ3XuqnFvfZc9rYQGbTo5wnT7Wv78-8CzSDiMJKtxGw/s3228/20240225_140505.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3228" data-original-width="2992" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4MjpeoRLOQ_KZkVjU9uNWZTasog3ENI_jwff6zIFZHBna8uoa4allwB4IBdJIKXrn54zrHWzj8W3lK9q51bqv03k8mSd-1HrOkk-73ozlUFk9TMa33uYKSKYXK3TVSD2WHT2x8ZaYRrnMGlsCtJ3XuqnFvfZc9rYQGbTo5wnT7Wv78-8CzSDiMJKtxGw/w371-h400/20240225_140505.jpg" width="371" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Once sufficiently cool, the Gentleman Cyclist tool is mounted into the vise, and the hub shell is flipped over so that the right hand ball cup/ring connects firmly to the Gentleman Cyclist tool. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8hWxTczTR6iMq2fc6SlS6qAPQeEBxEQTLr0pVLFsHICDlmDUZOu0Ejb5oNAT92mN0JrrlfmkjfQhGVDo5gK32v5fC46vlR8CarFtkhWKDk5NxZHYezLEl-fQ-8YAZGTyoAjRSnAYh5mCzwuXCGqoKQZzTVWK_BvDyU6GnJuvIBcpCwKZNLG4ZlP3rQPs/s3370/20240225_141236.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3370" data-original-width="2288" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8hWxTczTR6iMq2fc6SlS6qAPQeEBxEQTLr0pVLFsHICDlmDUZOu0Ejb5oNAT92mN0JrrlfmkjfQhGVDo5gK32v5fC46vlR8CarFtkhWKDk5NxZHYezLEl-fQ-8YAZGTyoAjRSnAYh5mCzwuXCGqoKQZzTVWK_BvDyU6GnJuvIBcpCwKZNLG4ZlP3rQPs/s320/20240225_141236.jpg" width="217" /></a></div><p></p><p> </p><p>A large adjustable wrench is then applied to the flats on the left hand ball cup. It's left-hand threaded, meaning I turn the wrench clockwise to loosen.<br /></p><div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5JqcFZLVBaIM8AjMw6R72WAJU-WatVWDXEg_WIwxKCOS_wdNAg5Zd2ehyphenhyphenuM0MiB_NCj71mINrI3a523MIR_K9oqSqcb-iyswHZ8wkGI8ksFIxcQ_RkEjkYWi3np0JGTRqW3d80fbrFVx2pU4M6Gim-917Wq3XDbt7Drd9x5GHdnT_NZLXeRboyzz3S2A/s2920/20240225_141532.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2901" data-original-width="2920" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5JqcFZLVBaIM8AjMw6R72WAJU-WatVWDXEg_WIwxKCOS_wdNAg5Zd2ehyphenhyphenuM0MiB_NCj71mINrI3a523MIR_K9oqSqcb-iyswHZ8wkGI8ksFIxcQ_RkEjkYWi3np0JGTRqW3d80fbrFVx2pU4M6Gim-917Wq3XDbt7Drd9x5GHdnT_NZLXeRboyzz3S2A/w400-h398/20240225_141532.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>Below - the left hand ball cup finally loosens up after several heat, cool cycles with the oil. I can now turn the left hand ball cup off and replace it.<br /></p><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUbPDnoiz3iM58hQWYlIGpx6oXkgSTF1h0qESvTahN37AgjCDWI_2FIW_kmWsbnXLKh-fbjasSkjwYNRA6h8k8uY7CLSeBnr4iahGcDrHU_kQixbHZDROcVjXQ70BmxSD6IbW3op8mGU0QiFsidGlxWSLr07vXQSxa1HoJWjNYzxjCL_qlGJkf8e1KE80/s2556/20240225_141823.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2541" data-original-width="2556" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUbPDnoiz3iM58hQWYlIGpx6oXkgSTF1h0qESvTahN37AgjCDWI_2FIW_kmWsbnXLKh-fbjasSkjwYNRA6h8k8uY7CLSeBnr4iahGcDrHU_kQixbHZDROcVjXQ70BmxSD6IbW3op8mGU0QiFsidGlxWSLr07vXQSxa1HoJWjNYzxjCL_qlGJkf8e1KE80/w400-h398/20240225_141823.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div><div> </div><div>Below- after removal of the left hand ball cup, you can see the shiny areas of thread where the oil penetrated. Lots of oil in those threads is a good thing. You get the most out of your effort when the oil fully works its way down.<br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFPTUOZCsypANNGgTp5n89BuEa6rIs7ytLzdHrsi3X3MQaZXUZLlTJuCG5DrQEo0acMZ43DonzIHPBCMv2mxsNaemeBgbfhq36HQEw3fF10eSQtBHmE9bAhbouOXzjMX-pdgMpclrSOxIooJqwrAZZI1ObOC3ZMYiYwFQcIId0bMd2acWQCyBJxe7Cyi8/s2414/20240225_141919.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2055" data-original-width="2414" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFPTUOZCsypANNGgTp5n89BuEa6rIs7ytLzdHrsi3X3MQaZXUZLlTJuCG5DrQEo0acMZ43DonzIHPBCMv2mxsNaemeBgbfhq36HQEw3fF10eSQtBHmE9bAhbouOXzjMX-pdgMpclrSOxIooJqwrAZZI1ObOC3ZMYiYwFQcIId0bMd2acWQCyBJxe7Cyi8/w400-h340/20240225_141919.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p>Below are a couple of Sturmey hubs saved in just one weekend. One is a pre-war AW with 40 holes and the other a 1950 AW with 40 holes, both great hubs for vintage English bikes.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaucpnro-3ONBh7G8AB_JX33V6gE8jlqtT7CxYW4v3dwI3fiHJgRxHpRbHD4xTUsevbHVh7SX1-SR5AOccr3lK9dKl6d-JQLvfcS8xtNhT5yJQp-8WEd3TeXKBxmAmZR0eD_0_cebyKcRNVkXgRNQ2cJz45R__nfkZZEGgeyNn2d6IDbeaP9lp7IWpv74/s2615/20240225_161709.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2615" data-original-width="2200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaucpnro-3ONBh7G8AB_JX33V6gE8jlqtT7CxYW4v3dwI3fiHJgRxHpRbHD4xTUsevbHVh7SX1-SR5AOccr3lK9dKl6d-JQLvfcS8xtNhT5yJQp-8WEd3TeXKBxmAmZR0eD_0_cebyKcRNVkXgRNQ2cJz45R__nfkZZEGgeyNn2d6IDbeaP9lp7IWpv74/w336-h400/20240225_161709.jpg" width="336" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-85106897554201856052024-02-12T12:10:00.004-05:002024-02-15T11:20:44.091-05:00When Was My Three Speed Bike Made? A Beginner's Guide<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrYzGEElvssJtZfNUyESCn2aYIPrHp-mquuMzrCNH5k2vkHnG6-4aitxBvBOMIuehdTjgampAPeK9yKdgNu1mxqsPMvKJFVuSckvdGw7wV9cNI3M48VLyZCmV1vLIkRqoIc1ZVQ1LjwzCPSgKuOJsRQLn7PUm9fLbmap3B9LHwmTB_rjm-2xk9xUWPEi4/s4000/20230920_180819.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrYzGEElvssJtZfNUyESCn2aYIPrHp-mquuMzrCNH5k2vkHnG6-4aitxBvBOMIuehdTjgampAPeK9yKdgNu1mxqsPMvKJFVuSckvdGw7wV9cNI3M48VLyZCmV1vLIkRqoIc1ZVQ1LjwzCPSgKuOJsRQLn7PUm9fLbmap3B9LHwmTB_rjm-2xk9xUWPEi4/w400-h300/20230920_180819.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>If
you are a beginner looking to find the date of manufacture of a
particular three speed bike, here are the basic ways of doing it. Let's
presume you have no access to service records or the original owner and
you're just finding a bike "in the wild".</p><p> </p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li><p><b>Look on the rear hub for a date code. Sturmey Archer hubs usually have a date code and a model stamped on the rear hub shell.</b></p></li></ol><div style="margin-left: 80px; text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li> "K"
model imprinted on hub: 1918-1937 era. Look on the hub for a date code.
Date codes with just one number date to the 1930s, with the single
number being the year in that decade (e.g., "5" means 1935, "6" means
1936, etc.).</li></ul></div><div style="margin-left: 80px; text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>"AW"
model imprinted on hub: 1936 or later. If the imprint is just one
number, it dates to the 1930s with that number being the year in the
1930s (e.g., "6" means 1936, "9" means 1939). If the imprint has two
numbers, those numbers are the month and the year (e.g., 5 73 means May
1973; 6 55 means June 1955). If not date code at all, those date to
around the time of WWII, just before to just after the war. <br /></li></ul></div><div style="margin-left: 80px; text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>"FW"
model imprinted on hub : four speed hub, 1946 or later. Date the same
way as the AW hub above (look for the two number date code). <br /></li></ul></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ6uMw7lPloXTLo7gq3yHNOUjIHC-n6v2t0r6-YIcdermnsBVAs15dEdA5Ud0CC5oHWuOotz6bqbkY09_24W7s-lMK7AHBQUhCsvv8GtQ0p_cvO3WcpoOlm-oMxQ2iPa_fdtTODDEXDqs/s1600/20171119_155453.jpg" class="shrinkToFit" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ6uMw7lPloXTLo7gq3yHNOUjIHC-n6v2t0r6-YIcdermnsBVAs15dEdA5Ud0CC5oHWuOotz6bqbkY09_24W7s-lMK7AHBQUhCsvv8GtQ0p_cvO3WcpoOlm-oMxQ2iPa_fdtTODDEXDqs/w400-h300/20171119_155453.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">47 10 means an October 1947 hub<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: center;"><b> </b></p><p style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><b> 2. Look at the model name and overall appearance of the bike. For Raleigh Sports bikes, visit the Headbadge website <a href="https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_ralsport_visID.html" target="_blank">HERE</a> for a helpful chart. For Schwinn bikes, visit the field guide <a href="https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/p/a-short-field-guide-to-schwinn-3-speed.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>. </b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-gQcwdD2x-6WVnH5d-3BpMExn3y_Yb6xJgQ3m-J_HsSYsopBzq_TfHlWjMXEdh91nscXti_ZBn94Ohz9Ov6q1bg3wN_x_WFJQWXrkTzxQ17WBC9-3hLNZMe5AIecGNEmNL_Eo0EOohiuekvY1-u_hdtsvqhsiZQvge67sEMwnLIG5UJzrYNpmw53gMRk/s4000/20231010_173229.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-gQcwdD2x-6WVnH5d-3BpMExn3y_Yb6xJgQ3m-J_HsSYsopBzq_TfHlWjMXEdh91nscXti_ZBn94Ohz9Ov6q1bg3wN_x_WFJQWXrkTzxQ17WBC9-3hLNZMe5AIecGNEmNL_Eo0EOohiuekvY1-u_hdtsvqhsiZQvge67sEMwnLIG5UJzrYNpmw53gMRk/w400-h300/20231010_173229.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ornate graphics and serial number show this is a 1959 Schwinn<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><br /><p style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><b> </b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbJngITGjBP-pkM0e5tizQ-hfgzJcwnkch90dk81om6zTZdwBN934TplTFC5MTlnqwFOvcJLUzpXE_X5rYwtY14kAoIx-BxNucMoVvrLM3CDyd7dKB8udWZNm5CjrMyQMLuY7EUSDvT20En5RUzttfIikx1WJsp-q05mx74NHM8ZpGIDXZOczoFPXbL5M/s4000/20230921_164545.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbJngITGjBP-pkM0e5tizQ-hfgzJcwnkch90dk81om6zTZdwBN934TplTFC5MTlnqwFOvcJLUzpXE_X5rYwtY14kAoIx-BxNucMoVvrLM3CDyd7dKB8udWZNm5CjrMyQMLuY7EUSDvT20En5RUzttfIikx1WJsp-q05mx74NHM8ZpGIDXZOczoFPXbL5M/w400-h300/20230921_164545.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Graphics help identify a 1958 Raleigh Sports<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b><p></p><p style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><b> </b></p><p style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><b>3. Look at the serial number of the bike. For Raleigh serial numbers, visit the Headbadge website <a href="https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_serials.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>.
For Schwinn serial numbers, check the bottom bracket, non-drive rear
dropout, or the head tube. If the serial number of a Schwinn is on the
bottom bracket, it's before 1952. If the serial number is on the
non-drive rear drop out, it's from 1952-1969. If the serial number is on
the head tube, it's 1970 or later. See the Angelfire Schwinn serial
number guide <a href="https://www.angelfire.com/rant/allday101/SchwinnCodes1.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>. Schwinn New World models have a serial number database <a href="https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/wartime-schwinn-new-world-bikes-we-know-you-have-them-tell-us-about-them.151709/page-90#post-1613812" target="_blank">HERE</a>. Post-war Schwinn Superior bikes have a database <a href="https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/post-war-40s-50s-schwinn-superior-list.234060/page-5#post-1637669" target="_blank">HERE</a>.</b></p><p style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></p><p style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><b>4.
Look on the front hub for a possible date code. Certain Sturmey Archer
front hubs, particularly those with drum brakes or dynamos inside, have
date codes. Look for two numbers, a month code and a year code (e.g., 5
52 is May 1952; 6 71 is June 1971; etc.). Note - not all front hubs have
a date code, so this is approach only occasionally helpful. </b><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDW-Pw0GPLQrwEB3W7jqf6U5PTNI77ScgGaZzvfaJmNgy4_7QI9jY4KnWtXOrofMYACYSBBLcpECXx91bIKffBVeB2ygXy43CJt40ZpjbKpHm6C6vccUsZH211RvvdTvgIrMX9_ZnphPmLgRe04jiJIncpQDlkp_dpTZ_-zB0K1HWRRvvLB2V5Tk0Z6M0/s4000/20231030_191341.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDW-Pw0GPLQrwEB3W7jqf6U5PTNI77ScgGaZzvfaJmNgy4_7QI9jY4KnWtXOrofMYACYSBBLcpECXx91bIKffBVeB2ygXy43CJt40ZpjbKpHm6C6vccUsZH211RvvdTvgIrMX9_ZnphPmLgRe04jiJIncpQDlkp_dpTZ_-zB0K1HWRRvvLB2V5Tk0Z6M0/w400-h300/20231030_191341.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">02 91 means February 1991 on this hub.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"> </div><p style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><b>5.
What kind of Sturmey Archer shifter is present? These are not always
reliable because people change shifters. But sometimes this can help.
See Martin Hanczyc's guide to shifters <a href="https://genetics.mgh.harvard.edu/hanczyc/pdfs/satriggers.pdf" target="_blank">HERE</a>.</b> </p><div style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxx7zyx_ZOCj6gqaTMxei8wePo6xiWsn5SMQ8eyshnwzqlQXmbmD6Lj6YW53fh4gNCaFL0hPa9bWPAoa6MyC9_qYvRFxCfcFHUItN2JCjVfeYhbfDGp0Z4NuylEG0_l1jnQhtCKYvnLCcmkHfeai_VVlD8bJuXalFGq5tvyOXeto1kVDKAgEjiNsMlqmI/s3319/20240114_233000.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2101" data-original-width="3319" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxx7zyx_ZOCj6gqaTMxei8wePo6xiWsn5SMQ8eyshnwzqlQXmbmD6Lj6YW53fh4gNCaFL0hPa9bWPAoa6MyC9_qYvRFxCfcFHUItN2JCjVfeYhbfDGp0Z4NuylEG0_l1jnQhtCKYvnLCcmkHfeai_VVlD8bJuXalFGq5tvyOXeto1kVDKAgEjiNsMlqmI/w400-h254/20240114_233000.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An early 1950s style shifter.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /><br /></p></div>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-68948881125948482102024-02-07T17:31:00.014-05:002024-02-07T18:02:20.222-05:00A Little Sturmey Archer Debate on a Wednesday Evening...<p style="text-align: center;"><img alt="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ6uMw7lPloXTLo7gq3yHNOUjIHC-n6v2t0r6-YIcdermnsBVAs15dEdA5Ud0CC5oHWuOotz6bqbkY09_24W7s-lMK7AHBQUhCsvv8GtQ0p_cvO3WcpoOlm-oMxQ2iPa_fdtTODDEXDqs/s1600/20171119_155453.jpg" class="shrinkToFit" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ6uMw7lPloXTLo7gq3yHNOUjIHC-n6v2t0r6-YIcdermnsBVAs15dEdA5Ud0CC5oHWuOotz6bqbkY09_24W7s-lMK7AHBQUhCsvv8GtQ0p_cvO3WcpoOlm-oMxQ2iPa_fdtTODDEXDqs/w400-h300/20171119_155453.jpg" width="400" /> <br /></p><p> </p><p> Certain bike-related sources take on the feel of "gospel" in the vintage bike community, the more they are used. I think Jobst Brandt and Sheldon Brown have both reached that status. People often cite Brandt on the subject of wheel building (he was certainly an expert) and Brown for all-around vintage bike information (particularly British 3 speeds and French road bikes). I will admit to learning a great deal from Sheldon's website and from correspondences with him (which I now see as all-too-short; his presence in the hobby is missed today).</p><p> I was recently thinking about a debate between Sheldon and Jobst over Sturmey Archer AW hubs. </p><p> <a href="https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/sturmey-archer.html" target="_blank">HERE</a> <br /></p><p>Brandt's position is that the AW suffers a more or less fatal flaw in the design of its clutch engagement: that under heavy load in high gear, the hub can suddenly slip out of gear, freewheel forward, and hence send the rider over the bars. The problem he cites is the slight play and straight profile of the planet gear pinion pins. (This is NOT the more common issue of a badly adjusted shifter cable allowing the clutch to slip out of gear - Jobst is claiming an inherent flaw regardless of shifter chain adjustment).<br /></p><p>Sheldon's response was that while this was theoretically true, and it may even have happened in certain extreme cases where the rider was very strong and in top gear for extended periods, that the vast majority of riders on these hubs don't have the clutch engagement problem. </p><p>John Allen adds to the debate that the bigger problem with old AW hubs is that the shifter connection can unscrew unnoticed by the rider, allowing a hub running in normal (2nd) gear to slip into neutral. </p><p>I am firmly in Sheldon's camp on this topic. Although the old AW's clutch mechanism is by no means perfect, the problem Jobst describes is a far, far outlier. </p><p>First, Sheldon's reason regarding the AW attracting more casual riders is correct as a general thing. </p><p>Second, when riding an AW in top gear, most riders (even the sportier ones) tend to "spin" rather than thrash the hub. The reason for this is that most climbing, especially hard climbing, is done in low gear rather than high gear. High gear generally is used for flat or dropping terrain, where the rider will rather quickly get into a spinning mode. Even sportier riders aren't thrashing away on high gear for extended periods at full strength. This almost seems to me to be a form of abuse of the hub, given the amount of force exerted on the hub.<br /></p><p>Third, Jobst's use of the Sturmey SW hub as an example of Sturmey Archer is unpersuasive in undermining the manufacturer. The SW hub was a totally different design with far, far more engagement problems than the AW ever had. It's not a fair comparison.</p><p> Fourth, history doesn't seem to bear out Jobst's claim. Millions of these hubs were made, and they were heavily used in difficult conditions all over the world. I have yet to see proof that a substantial number of people using these hubs had the problem Jobst describes. This includes many athletic club type riders who used AW hubs reliably on a regular basis. In short, I don't think history backs any claim that this high gear pinion problem was a serious and recurring thing.. <br /></p><p>Ultimately, I tend to agree with Sheldon and with John Allen on this subject. It's not that Jobst's proposed flaw is totally false (perhaps if we dug, we could find a case of it happening), but that it's a far outlier that comes nowhere close to warranting writing off the AW. The bigger problem is when the shifter cable is not properly adjusted, which allows the clutch to slip into neutral on the old AW. With proper care and adjustment, the old AW is a reliable hub. </p><p>This all reminds me of an old discussion Jobst had with a man who was rebuilding a 1960s era Schwinn Racer. (see <a href="https://yarchive.net/bike/sturmey_archer_hubs.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>) I think perhaps Jobst was a little too dismissive of the man's questions. The Racer, Sturmey AW, kickstand, and all, is a very practical bike, if a bit heavy. They make good commuters and utility bikes.<br /></p><p>The lesson here is that we have our "go-to" experts whose advice has become a form of "gospel" for vintage bike enthusiasts, but sometimes it's perfectly OK to disagree.<br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-30246187555805776072024-01-28T23:00:00.007-05:002024-02-07T09:27:31.614-05:001/8 Inch Cogs Compared: Sturmey Archer vs Two Threaded Cogs<p> Let's compare a couple recent offerings in threaded cogs compatible with old-style Sturmey Archer threaded drivers. To keep things simple, all cogs are 1/8 inch wide because that is the traditional size for a Sturmey Archer hub. All of the cogs are 22 teeth large, a common size that people use to make climbing hills easier. The cogs must be relatively affordable, newly made, and relatively easy to buy (e.g., find it on eBay, Amazon, online bike shop, etc.). Lastly, let's compare these cogs to a basic, new Sturmey Archer 22 tooth cog for the usual 3-spline driver. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO5-mRcEHtHL3x2xQxbfTVcLpNSf7x7aW5EhyphenhyphenOet8YeJpbxLodx7ZLxs7qU-Psemq2ESKrz49PkKTOFtYLgSNqheyrqiuGju7p6h1wecGNofkQwqXEbrG2VGr8CcSw1FjL1NiR-EE-Vof-OfdJpUiS5QQSBglzyfPV1Plika5PiX5RRj7cug8KFICVtOo/s4000/20240127_225711.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO5-mRcEHtHL3x2xQxbfTVcLpNSf7x7aW5EhyphenhyphenOet8YeJpbxLodx7ZLxs7qU-Psemq2ESKrz49PkKTOFtYLgSNqheyrqiuGju7p6h1wecGNofkQwqXEbrG2VGr8CcSw1FjL1NiR-EE-Vof-OfdJpUiS5QQSBglzyfPV1Plika5PiX5RRj7cug8KFICVtOo/w400-h300/20240127_225711.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fronts of the cogs: L- Vuelta, R- Action<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p>Offering 1: Vuelta brand threaded cog. (on the left in the above photo)<br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Price: $18.00, including shipping.</li><li>Source: eBay</li><li>Style: matte chrome type finish, slotted for weight reduction, rounded profile teeth.</li><li>Other Notes: comes with a lock ring for fixed gear bikes. </li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The Vuelta cog threaded onto the old style Sturmey driver without any issue. There is a lip one side of the cog to add extra threads and allow spacing by flipping the cog over. Sturmey Archer users will probably just use a spacer ring. Teeth are uniform 1/8 with no signs of manufacturing lines or roughness. Sizes available seem to be 15 teeth up to 22 teeth. The cog is not dished at all, but does have that lip that allows you to flip over the cog to set your spacing, if need be. The back side of the cog has the manufacturing information printed on it. It's not obvious or to noticeable, but be warned that if you want a totally plain looking cog, one side does have manufacturing information on it. I couldn't readily find the country of origin. </li></ul><p> </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA_j4UPB0nm9-Dd3SVrb4CV8xuDiPIei9BJdYx8uCYcOIQHBTT_5VeAkD-o55W4rjmQsO_uOlUyyG1HqrG_C2QvGr7gu-UR0L63dJtfDr-aE4SNxB1i8iVx6SlLzODSo1UJMEcgIPgm3fiKBM5UlUPIcfPZcMNMdr7Y0vZ68hYfeQEqaJICUXHvQfmHUo/s3790/20240127_225720.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2093" data-original-width="3790" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA_j4UPB0nm9-Dd3SVrb4CV8xuDiPIei9BJdYx8uCYcOIQHBTT_5VeAkD-o55W4rjmQsO_uOlUyyG1HqrG_C2QvGr7gu-UR0L63dJtfDr-aE4SNxB1i8iVx6SlLzODSo1UJMEcgIPgm3fiKBM5UlUPIcfPZcMNMdr7Y0vZ68hYfeQEqaJICUXHvQfmHUo/w400-h221/20240127_225720.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back sides of the cogs: L: Vuelta Cog, R: Action Cog<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p></p><p>Offering 2: Action brand threaded cog. (on the right in the above photo)<br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Price: $21.00, including shipping</li><li>Source: Amazon</li><li>Style: matte nickel finish, multiple round holes for weight reduction, old style pointed profile teeth</li><li>Other Notes: does not come with lock ring but has deeper lip on one side.</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The Action cog also threaded onto the Sturmey Archer driver without an issue. The lip on this cog is larger than that of the Vuelta. There are also more threads on this cog than the Vuelta, because of that deeper lip. This cog has old-style, pointed teeth versus the Vuelta's more modern round tooth. This cog also is not dished. Instead, you flip it over and use that lip to set the spacing. Manufacturing quality seems alright, though the cog I received did have some residual manufacturing lines running along the edges of the cog teeth. The Action logo is tiny and engraved on one side. You'll barely notice the logo. The matte nickel type finish has a retro kind of appeal. There's a kind of "steam punk" element to the multi-hole weight saving. This cog did not come with a lock ring, so you may want to consider that if you're using a fixed gear Sturmey Archer hub (not a common thing, but they're still out there...). Allegedly these are made in the USA, according to the ad. I don't see a country of origin on the cog itself. All teeth are 1/8 inch.</li></ul><p> Tooth Comparison:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioxXZhRJt04Dq5fYGmA-O4UrfaTu2UbJFgy1sMJZohbvTr4eg6_WwhcoEVzKq0InAiWF2jSaD5pEDwiTYhH9e62Iowugj_bzjQmeVkm06JTuNywr8rIiM5nHKtYLQFLZI0dw7hS15-FtIrnv2ZzYs9_aZwfu3LT9nyLSWS0VmTgsHYIwMS3bn51vQzY7s/s1942/20240127_225810.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1942" data-original-width="975" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioxXZhRJt04Dq5fYGmA-O4UrfaTu2UbJFgy1sMJZohbvTr4eg6_WwhcoEVzKq0InAiWF2jSaD5pEDwiTYhH9e62Iowugj_bzjQmeVkm06JTuNywr8rIiM5nHKtYLQFLZI0dw7hS15-FtIrnv2ZzYs9_aZwfu3LT9nyLSWS0VmTgsHYIwMS3bn51vQzY7s/s320/20240127_225810.jpg" width="161" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vuelta Cog<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>Above is the Vuelta cog. Photo shows the relatively modern style rounded tooth profile with pronounced ramps for the chain to slide onto the teeth.</p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg2iWJmvRAPAHzKiVbA5x6YhxdvljoVn9HrxGnpARUwBjFG0M6pT0kv-PT7Tmr_kN-tPJZh9Jn0KpuHv2UjbRKmvPFUjyJ6BwSD-n4dKyC5EltMHqqIeKX0KbIEmEuB5q9b9s1hmw4qvyqF7QazZ0x0O5TYZ69zhijn2HLDj6HmmhZisgZkwcE74gN1TA/s2104/20240127_225839.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2104" data-original-width="1050" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg2iWJmvRAPAHzKiVbA5x6YhxdvljoVn9HrxGnpARUwBjFG0M6pT0kv-PT7Tmr_kN-tPJZh9Jn0KpuHv2UjbRKmvPFUjyJ6BwSD-n4dKyC5EltMHqqIeKX0KbIEmEuB5q9b9s1hmw4qvyqF7QazZ0x0O5TYZ69zhijn2HLDj6HmmhZisgZkwcE74gN1TA/w200-h400/20240127_225839.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Action Cog Teeth<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Above are the teeth of the Action cog. These are more traditional teeth with points and a less pronounced ramp. Manufacturing lines are visible along the teeth. <br /></p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUV5ZuisBkFSoTAMC0Muwlw_2mOXj5L5uCVCQvh4YSaqteSM7Cs1qpvN3WPjYFhG8W55MzMCqq0LGtCQ39i6SP18L-xb8CSnv5TTR5Zp9CtNcvbtzgYLG39nMcEsujXry71PpiwWoj-CzI9Jnv18eD2TJzaqf5NHje3yG5J0R8XD3ZuSe6LZAcHGsE8U8/s4000/20240127_225855.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="939" data-original-width="4000" height="94" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUV5ZuisBkFSoTAMC0Muwlw_2mOXj5L5uCVCQvh4YSaqteSM7Cs1qpvN3WPjYFhG8W55MzMCqq0LGtCQ39i6SP18L-xb8CSnv5TTR5Zp9CtNcvbtzgYLG39nMcEsujXry71PpiwWoj-CzI9Jnv18eD2TJzaqf5NHje3yG5J0R8XD3ZuSe6LZAcHGsE8U8/w400-h94/20240127_225855.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L- Action Cog, R- Vuelta Cog<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Above, you can see the Action cog on the left has a deeper mouth than the Vuelta on the right. The Action cog has a couple extra threads and a little more range for spacing if you flip it over on the driver. The Vuelta cog comes with a lock ring, which is something you want if you're running a fixed gear Sturmey hub. In either case, you'll get more precision spacing by going with your regular Sturmey disc spacers.<br /></p><div><div><p>Control Comparison: Sturmey Archer Three-Spline Cog</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Price: $8 to $15 usually.</li><li>Source: Amazon, ebay, lots of places</li><li>Style: chrome finish, traditional three-spline Sturmey cog.</li><li>Other Notes: readily available, traditional type cog</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>This cog is what you normally get for the regular Sturmey Archer driver. They slide on, and you use the ring spacers to set the chain line. The cog is helpfully dished. Sturmey Archer information is engraved toward the inside edge of the cog, but it is not too noticeable. Tooth profile is pretty generic. It's mostly a traditional tooth style, though I note the teeth are a bit more rounded and modern in profile than the originals from the 1950s and 60s. This cog looks fine on most bikes, but it is a bit bright and "new looking" if you're putting it on a very old bike. You can't argue with the price usually - they're not all that expensive. I believe these are made in Taiwan with the other Sunrace/Sturmey offerings of today. All teeth are 1/8. There's a little play as it goes onto the splined driver, but the snap ring holds it down well enough. If you mess up your chain line, it's MUCH easier to fix it with this cog than with the thread-ons. These cogs pop right off, whereas pulling the threaded cog may mean pulling the driver and getting out the chain whip. </li></ul><p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1leBVzB5I3-aoO8OrcUhDscTvDVnWchXEuyWOkcH7JO6rXBIOmGs9864k9nHYRtaUe5zyt0OwhpLckVdWeNVUxNbWk5bPVIKKX6_Wl3aG_zloUiuN2Wk5T9yYeVOCVIotmKOfRnAcG4kBv_2RoejAEvczOEYE6aZqH7SUkTz4EitvyFwS4qm4mlTJ57s/s1000/51Y4VwHt84L._AC_SL1000_.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="628" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1leBVzB5I3-aoO8OrcUhDscTvDVnWchXEuyWOkcH7JO6rXBIOmGs9864k9nHYRtaUe5zyt0OwhpLckVdWeNVUxNbWk5bPVIKKX6_Wl3aG_zloUiuN2Wk5T9yYeVOCVIotmKOfRnAcG4kBv_2RoejAEvczOEYE6aZqH7SUkTz4EitvyFwS4qm4mlTJ57s/w251-h400/51Y4VwHt84L._AC_SL1000_.jpg" width="251" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sturmey Archer Modern Cog<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>The above Sturmey Archer modern cog shows a kind of hybrid tooth profile - less rounded than the Vuelta, but more rounded than the Action. It has fairly substantial ramps for the chain sliding onto the teeth. <br /></p><p> </p><p>Final Thoughts: I would have no objection to using any of these three cogs. Each went on the drivers OK, and each is reasonably well made. The Vuelta was a little cleaner in terms of manufacturing marks than the Action, but the Action is not all that bad. The nickel finish and round holes of the Action give it a kind of "steam punk" retro look. The Vuelta is "all business" with its slotted cuts and more modern tooth profile. Unfortunately, neither modern threaded cog was dished like the old thread-one Sturmeys. Unfortunately neither modern thread-on cog had a dark blue finish like the old Sturmey threaded cogs. The Sturmey Archer three-spline cog also was reasonably well-made. It's a little bright if you're putting it on a really old or worn bike, but it will work. </p><p>If you want to run a threaded driver and cog and you are running an old school roller chain (Perry, Union, Raleigh, Diamond, etc.), then I'd lean toward the Action cog. If you're running a modern chain (e.g., SRAM, KMC, etc.), then either threaded cog will work. With a modern chain the Vuelta would run a little smoother, but either would be alright. With either of the threaded cogs discussed here, you need to get your chain line right the first time, or else have to pull the driver, remove the cog, and start over with the set up (a real pain!).<br /></p><p>The main issue is these threaded cogs are much more expensive than the Sturmey. I was easily able to find three-spline Sturmey cogs for around $10 new. Even the more expensive sellers were in the $15 to $18 range. The threaded cogs both were in the $20 range or so (Vuelta a little less, Action a little more). The lock ring in the Vuelta set is nice if you have a fixed gear hub, but a basic AW type hub won't really benefit from that. <br /></p><p>But at least you have a couple decent, affordable options for cogs if you really want to use that old school Sturmey Archer AW with a threaded driver. It's easier to swap to the three-splined driver, but why not also put those threaded drivers to good use? <br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p> </p></div></div>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-58025661326687860112024-01-20T23:05:00.005-05:002024-01-20T23:05:46.867-05:00Tool Tip: Removing Cogs from Threaded Sturmey Archer Drivers<p> Older Sturmey Archer hubs, such as AW hubs from 1951 and earlier, have threaded drivers rather than three-spline drivers. This makes removal of the cog more difficult because it is screwed onto the driver rather than snapped-in using the circlip spring.</p><p>As the rider rides the bike, it tightens down the driver to a point that it is very firmly in place on the driver. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOctjTbsBDzp_8D1O5JLaEdj_vPCIe1FDPpAbEi8YQ_44i7v3AD21_5a0gTm1tEbrxHVX3vix1lSOPhMbpONpdlUHsmbKwbgLzwpgbTKa60d-MflMZHJjFYeAEDwYNZZGW9KIbma-shRmtnVHHVfK3dqd1zp9P_4u5IMHT3RgTG4T-EY_zXinEBjezC_I/s4000/20240120_174228.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOctjTbsBDzp_8D1O5JLaEdj_vPCIe1FDPpAbEi8YQ_44i7v3AD21_5a0gTm1tEbrxHVX3vix1lSOPhMbpONpdlUHsmbKwbgLzwpgbTKa60d-MflMZHJjFYeAEDwYNZZGW9KIbma-shRmtnVHHVfK3dqd1zp9P_4u5IMHT3RgTG4T-EY_zXinEBjezC_I/w400-h300/20240120_174228.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Here is how I remove these threaded cogs:</p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>Remove the driver from the hub. Remove the dust cap and bearings. Clean the driver and check that the bearing surfaces are clean and not pitted.</li><li>Put a stout adjustable wrench into a strong bench vise. Don't use a clamp-on vise for this; use a bolt-down vise on a heavy work bench. <br /></li><li>Slide the driver onto the thick end of the wrench handle close to the jaws of the wrench. Make sure that the wrench is slid well into the vise. There should be just enough room between the head of the wrench and the side of the vise that the driver can fit. See the above photo and below photo for the positioning of the wrench in the vise (note how close the head is to the vise - it's not sticking way out). </li><li>Mount your chain whip (again see the photo above and the one below). Connect to as many teeth on the cog as you can.</li><li>Trickle some Kroil or similar creeping oil into the threaded joint between the cog and the driver.</li><li>Heat the cog around the threads using a propane torch. Heat it evenly going around and around. Keep heating gradually until the Kroil in the threads begins to bubble. CAUTION: if you heat it too much, you will start a fire or smoke out the oil.</li><li>Apply a little more Kroil to the heated joint. Let it cool for a couple of minutes.</li><li>Begin ramping up torque on the chain whip. Gradually build up you pull.</li><li>Apply additional heat and Kroil if the cog won't move.</li><li>Repeat until the cog unscrews. </li><li>Carefully remove the cog, spacer(s) and dust cap. CAUTION: they are hot.<br /></li></ol><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRjcGzYmRU6Xs0igWEkVZXG69rYk1XlQiNRI1Vg5YY66eAfipHBjwKTAzZUEBVVoQq6sMMB9_58bT_CrkTrXpKQssKUtfp9zZuuBoXBuE95Omb1OOhRhOvEvu1APoLfC0eDEuhhyphenhyphen6ZjmHgew2kJy9_pFsvZnMAvpHiA8KjWK0JrMMt6R_5cP3aV_1w9Ec/s4000/20240120_174248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRjcGzYmRU6Xs0igWEkVZXG69rYk1XlQiNRI1Vg5YY66eAfipHBjwKTAzZUEBVVoQq6sMMB9_58bT_CrkTrXpKQssKUtfp9zZuuBoXBuE95Omb1OOhRhOvEvu1APoLfC0eDEuhhyphenhyphen6ZjmHgew2kJy9_pFsvZnMAvpHiA8KjWK0JrMMt6R_5cP3aV_1w9Ec/w300-h400/20240120_174248.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p></p><p>Once you get the hang of this, you should be able to save many of these old, threaded drivers. Your threaded driver is now able to take a larger rear cog (track style cogs will thread-on), or even a thread-on multi cog, such as a Cyclo bloc for hybrid gearing.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFCGsDunHssjuTuaeT2BvNTOlk36bTzW9rYmxkNu334QOSKiJAkX85CTxEuVN2DS7mjizLPNoeD0geNJnIE5cD7XXK2DfGdPdY0L3Rs-Svzcc94OtY4df1o_Xn-qlLnK8QGByBWsCMSs5z09xq-uEQUADdUHuxL6eRsrktS-LCPvCesZJiFSi9T1FWYd0/s4000/20240120_173640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFCGsDunHssjuTuaeT2BvNTOlk36bTzW9rYmxkNu334QOSKiJAkX85CTxEuVN2DS7mjizLPNoeD0geNJnIE5cD7XXK2DfGdPdY0L3Rs-Svzcc94OtY4df1o_Xn-qlLnK8QGByBWsCMSs5z09xq-uEQUADdUHuxL6eRsrktS-LCPvCesZJiFSi9T1FWYd0/w400-h300/20240120_173640.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-4808907841103846912024-01-18T22:46:00.000-05:002024-01-18T22:46:04.878-05:00New Arrival: Another 1947 Schwinn Continental <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5e6BhWkj1R79OJjOFCX3N4FDhyV-kLx5g0IoErVnbE_2ttVhyphenhyphenxtN6d2x3iRBDha-GDTz2Cqy2Fd1KyGbv8E-L4Q1oJmhOCqrnngoaVYNvcKw2W1o9OFjElK7FY4RklDcZBGO2VpzJ-NX8gihbmWqMYShzvfk73WASHmQaOrKF6ldkUH_aSs97crrnDdk/s1193/s-l1200(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="697" data-original-width="1193" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5e6BhWkj1R79OJjOFCX3N4FDhyV-kLx5g0IoErVnbE_2ttVhyphenhyphenxtN6d2x3iRBDha-GDTz2Cqy2Fd1KyGbv8E-L4Q1oJmhOCqrnngoaVYNvcKw2W1o9OFjElK7FY4RklDcZBGO2VpzJ-NX8gihbmWqMYShzvfk73WASHmQaOrKF6ldkUH_aSs97crrnDdk/w400-h234/s-l1200(2).jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Here's another find and yet another project: a 1947 Schwinn Continental. I owned a similar bike some years ago, but ended up selling it back to the previous owner when I had to move.</p><p>This bike is very similar: standard frame size (about 22 inches), same color (aluminum-blue), and good condition. The rear hub is an undated Sturmey Archer AW hub, and the front hub is a duraluminum Schwinn type.</p><p>The frame is Chrome-Molybdenum steel with thin tube walls. It has the usual three-armed spider, 46 tooth chain ring, and cottered cranks. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNCR2Cn4T28OhmEoJA_8a7RBM9EnTryDbMyDDg-nluiRY18Ov3zhrZOaJ2miidfT5RBtI67MlQy1HS-Mx4Oq1E4vTHq_aIcPaSQES8mqtlRstmYuTsGb4iEzYbicq7HnyJpawvoa7OAyn2XS-9kmWSWvbEsx9Wf4fvEwzFGYYRDXyU6hBFsTb7zbCkfwc/s1600/s-l1600b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNCR2Cn4T28OhmEoJA_8a7RBM9EnTryDbMyDDg-nluiRY18Ov3zhrZOaJ2miidfT5RBtI67MlQy1HS-Mx4Oq1E4vTHq_aIcPaSQES8mqtlRstmYuTsGb4iEzYbicq7HnyJpawvoa7OAyn2XS-9kmWSWvbEsx9Wf4fvEwzFGYYRDXyU6hBFsTb7zbCkfwc/w400-h300/s-l1600b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> <p></p><p>The brakes are Schwinn-built steel calipers. It is missing the Schwinn brake levers and the desirable (expensive) double-adjustable stem. I'll source some replacement parts that will work for this bike.</p><p>These bikes are good riders, and fairly light in weight for their time. The lightened Schwinn stainless S6 rims are a big plus on these bikes.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOw0O5cm5jJdsT2xDxXut62mj67cRuIRbQ0OM4zn7_OnpTPNt4jP03UuZ4RiZU3qtfGXQkNdrgC9ElzYRwlB9vnz6yygDweHk_FAnn_b075SlP7LXI4RzZhTbD_g26dzbPKHrjMOCP-qJXfPuhAOtvGx0A6KDlWo4fF2kZtn7Jmaf-GeaxcTxwN8fZn9w/s1600/s-l1600c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOw0O5cm5jJdsT2xDxXut62mj67cRuIRbQ0OM4zn7_OnpTPNt4jP03UuZ4RiZU3qtfGXQkNdrgC9ElzYRwlB9vnz6yygDweHk_FAnn_b075SlP7LXI4RzZhTbD_g26dzbPKHrjMOCP-qJXfPuhAOtvGx0A6KDlWo4fF2kZtn7Jmaf-GeaxcTxwN8fZn9w/w400-h300/s-l1600c.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p></p><p>The fenders are made of fairly thin stainless steel. They have the wire braces that connect to the Continental type frame braze-ons.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAb7bV2d9WXhXMpevGNXhWmFFYany-SMuth5j8PCT7LXuGiWsMoCV2LInScQeGX0u_5hTw1zNrSwY0722iXpFK-DIJFc0mWUorahmO-Lr36JPuSaomYHG-AhCMlpwSe-vYt9xk1esGfOJZngPlRkDceftyj4GrS7HvFxxlZr0SJn7a7V6DriSP8RAK9Ng/s1600/s-l1600d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAb7bV2d9WXhXMpevGNXhWmFFYany-SMuth5j8PCT7LXuGiWsMoCV2LInScQeGX0u_5hTw1zNrSwY0722iXpFK-DIJFc0mWUorahmO-Lr36JPuSaomYHG-AhCMlpwSe-vYt9xk1esGfOJZngPlRkDceftyj4GrS7HvFxxlZr0SJn7a7V6DriSP8RAK9Ng/w400-h300/s-l1600d.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>This bike even has its original bike shop sticker on it, from a shop that sold bikes and baby carriages in New York City.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Rxc-F-5R7b9bBbK0mxkQqGSYE58iWV3s2PsfZKI0ssjAB2bCgLstTGJE52WFJWvQ5PSgZ8tnGa0vgJQFU_7FemM2YZO23SQvn3qJs1OocbHN41D95aZfUk0jnNbzatsKVz_grj1EozLL1su-tjuGfJTSCE85Bn988nFYyqSUnkuiw5sCdKySYlBnVdA/s839/20240104_202633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="839" data-original-width="589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Rxc-F-5R7b9bBbK0mxkQqGSYE58iWV3s2PsfZKI0ssjAB2bCgLstTGJE52WFJWvQ5PSgZ8tnGa0vgJQFU_7FemM2YZO23SQvn3qJs1OocbHN41D95aZfUk0jnNbzatsKVz_grj1EozLL1su-tjuGfJTSCE85Bn988nFYyqSUnkuiw5sCdKySYlBnVdA/s320/20240104_202633.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><p>This project is already taken apart for cleaning and rebuilding.<br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-66904906889124451712024-01-14T23:49:00.001-05:002024-01-14T23:52:44.426-05:001951 New Hudson Silver Arrow<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibnQMWetAfS_9TNtRphoXAmCkV34XqS5ZWCdeeF8BJeBJ2cJlIhzEVJaDiNpz7ia_oWFxO3OYNkXbjIhKnWESEEZ2wUsjHGdJVAXxey5Dkav9qIo0JdSJUOfGMYDvxQZi_EiWfHmj8xBC6lWIxdgNq5aQAYPZ3-4Ohoi53Fj2WATDVN8VXqFC4rjC7T4I/s3177/20240114_232930.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1982" data-original-width="3177" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibnQMWetAfS_9TNtRphoXAmCkV34XqS5ZWCdeeF8BJeBJ2cJlIhzEVJaDiNpz7ia_oWFxO3OYNkXbjIhKnWESEEZ2wUsjHGdJVAXxey5Dkav9qIo0JdSJUOfGMYDvxQZi_EiWfHmj8xBC6lWIxdgNq5aQAYPZ3-4Ohoi53Fj2WATDVN8VXqFC4rjC7T4I/w400-h250/20240114_232930.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> <p></p><p>The New Hudson Silver arrow project is finished for the time being. I won't have a chance to test it out until the riding season starts in the spring. It also will need some light cosmetic work, but for the most part, this one is done. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9wI2QM131DDtlpbZxOURxeQ8tUeOsHZ7kINs9c15imU4o5r4nLOAgWTX8Ds8ys47GEIWHtKfoFPA2NrfB6hJwKN4NWC-a2reko5ZE1T2gPyeyzn6whhMYHnImkYMZeEZwxKgeHwvgrPYTglIarBfWnK8xbObUSPgSm2FbHVn9wbqfzGv5NAl1x0Ejj48/s4000/20240114_232937.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9wI2QM131DDtlpbZxOURxeQ8tUeOsHZ7kINs9c15imU4o5r4nLOAgWTX8Ds8ys47GEIWHtKfoFPA2NrfB6hJwKN4NWC-a2reko5ZE1T2gPyeyzn6whhMYHnImkYMZeEZwxKgeHwvgrPYTglIarBfWnK8xbObUSPgSm2FbHVn9wbqfzGv5NAl1x0Ejj48/w300-h400/20240114_232937.jpg" width="300" /></a></div> <p></p><p>The Silver Arrow was a mid-level offering from New Hudson / BSA. The bike has Reynolds 531 main tubes on the frame. It has club bike style equipment, but a laid back frame similar to a roadster bike. </p><p>The wheels are 26 x 1-1/4 (ISO 597mm) club types. The rims are Dunlop "lightweight" steel endricks. The front hub is a basic steel hourglass with oiler port, and the rear hub is a Sturmey Archer AW 40 hole from the 1950s. This is a 23 inch frame riding on 26 in wheels, a size I particularly like.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtdGtdu-LJUe7aDaB5P3ywdKpjqN7SGRLSvW0P5Lr2zjiuUrUTMVfg3w-uEdh4kgiqpxsTqzdDe_fEgm-faqF4rhbL07PusBkJIvXNi_mYeyHgEvVMW_aEjTUMVNnIpQsqYXs-7Ns3rjyHa6QnjaoTEChFEgwSNDL6l0Eq8STcPTrpn8bvvb3BwOM-DmM/s4000/20240114_232943.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="1955" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtdGtdu-LJUe7aDaB5P3ywdKpjqN7SGRLSvW0P5Lr2zjiuUrUTMVfg3w-uEdh4kgiqpxsTqzdDe_fEgm-faqF4rhbL07PusBkJIvXNi_mYeyHgEvVMW_aEjTUMVNnIpQsqYXs-7Ns3rjyHa6QnjaoTEChFEgwSNDL6l0Eq8STcPTrpn8bvvb3BwOM-DmM/w195-h400/20240114_232943.jpg" width="195" /></a></div> <p></p><p>This bike is built with North Road type bars rather than the stock drop bars because the North Road is more comfortable for me. </p><p>The bike has peculiar, proprietary BSA/New Hudson brakes with pad holders that sleeve onto the caliper arms perpendicular to the rim surface. The pad holders take John Bull style brake pads. I was able to buy reproduction pads that fit the pad holders. The cables are double-ended proprietary types, similar to Raleigh cables, but with somewhat different cable ends on them.<br /></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMIIswup-eSHfy4d20M5sD02X3LMTH0SIR8ui1lUfd3d6fKDmxshfmhYa27uVtPSrxx6rleM7BK7l9DjBEa98HP8RylXoP6E5-fEZctqMmRKPY0Z_8izDzPF8f1_qcU3wCKIPPieYbbTXBJm8FHYnqgNWoJmbQpXnwAJHVdG8gs6zSwPqDbNF6N1oLZ_4/s1835/20240114_233022.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1682" data-original-width="1835" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMIIswup-eSHfy4d20M5sD02X3LMTH0SIR8ui1lUfd3d6fKDmxshfmhYa27uVtPSrxx6rleM7BK7l9DjBEa98HP8RylXoP6E5-fEZctqMmRKPY0Z_8izDzPF8f1_qcU3wCKIPPieYbbTXBJm8FHYnqgNWoJmbQpXnwAJHVdG8gs6zSwPqDbNF6N1oLZ_4/w400-h366/20240114_233022.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>The original Bluemels New Hudson celluloid fenders were destroyed when the bike was shipped to me. I used the claim money to buy a very nice set of replacement Bluemels and added a New Hudson decal from H. Lloyd's in England. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPaJasSub6kQSpNQ5CBZrXKCeeDwp0_zROgnF002IlbV6q3pNl3pZkzYwQo2OdbO8_WtuGPMqtZnpisO_gaHjQdDJUhM9VO5NdJkrY9c5LJA8ohlqRT2t6YCAUbd8qwKKGX1mA5nM1WY7LbfPzpjnZz2lceA-3GbWe9cYRSL8hcVf4f4CdBRvU3vmocvo/s3614/20240114_232951.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3614" data-original-width="1255" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPaJasSub6kQSpNQ5CBZrXKCeeDwp0_zROgnF002IlbV6q3pNl3pZkzYwQo2OdbO8_WtuGPMqtZnpisO_gaHjQdDJUhM9VO5NdJkrY9c5LJA8ohlqRT2t6YCAUbd8qwKKGX1mA5nM1WY7LbfPzpjnZz2lceA-3GbWe9cYRSL8hcVf4f4CdBRvU3vmocvo/w139-h400/20240114_232951.jpg" width="139" /></a></div> <p></p><p>This bike is the third in a series of "sporty roadsters" I did over the course of about a year. The first was a 1953 Raleigh Lenton, the second was a 1949 Raleigh Clubman, and the third is this New Hudson Silver Arrow. The concept was to put blend light roadster ergonomics with sporting or club bike style frames and equipment. This is a style of bike that had somewhat of a following in the 1940s and 50s, but which eventually fell out of favor.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkGt_EYXJsGAnk6NuOjOVbw8UIq2SzXmYQr2PRdvGx5K7u4T4J7yGBI-ndJxX_4A_FiI8xc4Ixp4ijrZ15MOW4U77O3Sd8-eRp_uRFvjXYBIlgy9fsDCEkSk5esuyx2HJ-AmMNBHQXDtRuU4loHZ0JhyN-cMvz13-CK893B63Jq0U0sDSEL0yAszIcJ98/s4000/20240114_233013.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkGt_EYXJsGAnk6NuOjOVbw8UIq2SzXmYQr2PRdvGx5K7u4T4J7yGBI-ndJxX_4A_FiI8xc4Ixp4ijrZ15MOW4U77O3Sd8-eRp_uRFvjXYBIlgy9fsDCEkSk5esuyx2HJ-AmMNBHQXDtRuU4loHZ0JhyN-cMvz13-CK893B63Jq0U0sDSEL0yAszIcJ98/w400-h300/20240114_233013.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>And now comes the wait until spring to see how this one will ride...</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6iyB9FtgxjNG37FGs0LiM1wOoJ599RCPhZMBTKVw3a-NkABY8h17S_a2ZakY3cJF2ZqmW_y-9mplMZO07QWlebzIHXAWC5F1IiKamXDkXmfbXugAzuU8brCGknSH8KKUdfXNyZNKtdxkHfrS3yh8E0zdGVL43T_hyphenhyphen2WsQXtB9hsDotqnrqYDyNv9NQgA/s3319/20240114_233000.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2101" data-original-width="3319" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6iyB9FtgxjNG37FGs0LiM1wOoJ599RCPhZMBTKVw3a-NkABY8h17S_a2ZakY3cJF2ZqmW_y-9mplMZO07QWlebzIHXAWC5F1IiKamXDkXmfbXugAzuU8brCGknSH8KKUdfXNyZNKtdxkHfrS3yh8E0zdGVL43T_hyphenhyphen2WsQXtB9hsDotqnrqYDyNv9NQgA/w400-h254/20240114_233000.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p><br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-2043801911400996282023-12-27T12:26:00.002-05:002023-12-27T12:26:41.768-05:00Closing Thoughts for 2023<p>It is hard to believe that the end of 2023 is almost upon us. It seems like the year just began, and now here we are at the end. It is this time of year that I like to take stock of what happened over the past 12 months. I usually do a recap at the end of ride season, and I like to close out the year in the same fashion.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6KoNMJdTapO4GgIJG4ud0kOFS9ToPrFqts1Qkmzi49nA66Os6CIH2hyykW5H4T3k-OBj_lmiGE6ylBdK-hKlVNTYbFlKjyMGp9usPpNvnGHjiEnnahq71zimw-xulWZ13U8vGeWtdZONNRHX_AbWgVso0cw6xWqJICh-KpxUpUSgmNCzab-zVsLfzVs/s4000/20230920_180836.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6KoNMJdTapO4GgIJG4ud0kOFS9ToPrFqts1Qkmzi49nA66Os6CIH2hyykW5H4T3k-OBj_lmiGE6ylBdK-hKlVNTYbFlKjyMGp9usPpNvnGHjiEnnahq71zimw-xulWZ13U8vGeWtdZONNRHX_AbWgVso0cw6xWqJICh-KpxUpUSgmNCzab-zVsLfzVs/w400-h300/20230920_180836.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><h2 style="text-align: center;">Season <br /></h2><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The start of ride season was somewhat delayed by late snow. We had a big snow storm in March after an unusually mild and quiet winter. This pushed back the start of the season a couple of weeks from normal. </li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Summer was damp, cool, and rainy. There were also "smoke days" that prevented some rides. This was one of the worst summers in terms of ride conditions in recent memory.</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Fall was better than usual with mild weather and (finally) a dry spell running from late September into early November. The season finished a couple of days later than usual. I was able to ride right up until the daylight and clock changes made it too difficult to ride after work.</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Winter has been mild so far. I've been working in my indoor work room, though at a pretty slow pace. Projects slow way down in winter. <br /></li></ul><p> </p><p><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: center;">This Year's Changes: Bikes In... Bikes Out...<br /></h2><p>What about bikes? Here is a recap of this year's new projects and bikes moved on to new owners:<br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1953 Raleigh Lenton: bought from a collector in Maryland/DC (I lived in the DC area for 17 years, so it was nice to have a bike from where I used to live). I kept this bike and made a few changes to it. It has chrome fenders now, but I have a beautiful set of white Raleigh fenders for it to go on in the new year. <br /></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li> 1940 Raleigh Model 35: a purchase from a collector in Massachusetts. I cleaned up and serviced this bike, which is in outstanding shape. This one is a fairly early Raleigh in the US (they arrived about 1933, so within 7 or so years of the arrival) and a keeper. </li></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjuPBqsLE1iYZoPhyz5b1dhTLeCYfbzSBSniM_mbLdJauhNdLyxn6_VPKKF0Auqd3VjMY0VKGfiZMuOSWLFbzMwdNVbYH_prKmEAPIU6Bbp7KFTuaq3LpFn5oF3oSnozhl-E8tZJmyvhqjWhGJy73vjg2FGczz2dnzrLv7zHmgKwGDFkAJRa8FwI-fZC8/s4000/20230912_183212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjuPBqsLE1iYZoPhyz5b1dhTLeCYfbzSBSniM_mbLdJauhNdLyxn6_VPKKF0Auqd3VjMY0VKGfiZMuOSWLFbzMwdNVbYH_prKmEAPIU6Bbp7KFTuaq3LpFn5oF3oSnozhl-E8tZJmyvhqjWhGJy73vjg2FGczz2dnzrLv7zHmgKwGDFkAJRa8FwI-fZC8/w400-h300/20230912_183212.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1949 Raleigh Clubman: another purchase from a collector in Massachusetts. This beautiful bike is a 22 inch frame on vintage Dunlop alloy wheels. It's a lightweight, lively bike. It is built up with a set of Nitto swept back handlebars. </li></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKIOsmVUwbUr4_ipFZDM9arlCAOrZ0pkLWSkR3WddImDlxv8oggJMsDz71aJzJrwrSGO-738OfpTorVGhCYLkX15fJxHNXUfDVZ8X3oLxZl173jsYRLYqeG5Kn0gwVePvF4w7iwKN8IPOZ0EjbCa6obOTz07J4PmfkSypAjErmKdRbHFgPyD26Ochqd5M/s4000/20231016_175225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKIOsmVUwbUr4_ipFZDM9arlCAOrZ0pkLWSkR3WddImDlxv8oggJMsDz71aJzJrwrSGO-738OfpTorVGhCYLkX15fJxHNXUfDVZ8X3oLxZl173jsYRLYqeG5Kn0gwVePvF4w7iwKN8IPOZ0EjbCa6obOTz07J4PmfkSypAjErmKdRbHFgPyD26Ochqd5M/w400-h300/20231016_175225.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1941 Schwinn New World: saved this bike, which had been parted out on eBay. I got the bike core and built up a beautiful, period rider bike. It was a standard 21-22 inch frame, so I sold it to another collector.</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1942 Schwinn New World: this was a mild custom bike based on period 1940s art deco and streamline design. It had a WWII aviation theme overall. I sold this bike as well because it was a standard 21-22 inch frame. <br /></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1968 Raleigh Sports: this was a very generous gift from a neighbor who was the original owner of the bike. It was in beautiful condition and very much original. I donated this bike to a local bike charity for high school students. One of the students really, really liked the bike and I believe he ended up being the final recipient. It's good to get younger people involved in this hobby. </li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1959 Schwinn Traveler: this was a simple frame and fork, but it was a tall 23-24 inch frame, which is a huge plus. It's hard to find tall frame Schwinn 3 speeds from before the late 1960s. I built this bike up as a period 1950s three speed. It's a great rider and a keeper.</li></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixKlupZ8yqx0igrdvBdI_aO4TQXl5TOh6w5O0olMtgBv27zrkxCeZfLTWzgARNEOzcMJxRFTfMPxWXBPamn8TavEtEN9r1WQCv-M1yYzL6cMjd7Hs386KZRxx1S3_EIbKWHlWawspyTTlcZuuv42mh9-9JEq_AwzHmUQinzjpvhMzYWqGhETNCRldZ9Kk/s4000/20231010_173222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixKlupZ8yqx0igrdvBdI_aO4TQXl5TOh6w5O0olMtgBv27zrkxCeZfLTWzgARNEOzcMJxRFTfMPxWXBPamn8TavEtEN9r1WQCv-M1yYzL6cMjd7Hs386KZRxx1S3_EIbKWHlWawspyTTlcZuuv42mh9-9JEq_AwzHmUQinzjpvhMzYWqGhETNCRldZ9Kk/w400-h300/20231010_173222.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> 1957 Schwinn Traveler: this was a Craigslist find locally. A local collector gave me a helpful lead and because it was a tall frame, I bought it. It's a very unusual era Schwinn 3-speed. I finished this project late in the season and only had a couple test rides. It still needs some final shakedown rides next season. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXUCCz93siI6aOjw-SaxceBI1-9Z4XABeQkWk0ILPxnXyEq-LC358o4bsGDiLCPHATnqE0NJ9l_Bgkqvo-2aWjLzlGNaI3gay7n4XG5YVf01qiXJ5kQ9IvPOFW0IcLZtEg9JjOp66o_PgiRf-TIv7sLTBg2cjU8ikTEAhGj8Oz3QGseNKO-bS3sIwvXeg/s4000/20231104_201956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXUCCz93siI6aOjw-SaxceBI1-9Z4XABeQkWk0ILPxnXyEq-LC358o4bsGDiLCPHATnqE0NJ9l_Bgkqvo-2aWjLzlGNaI3gay7n4XG5YVf01qiXJ5kQ9IvPOFW0IcLZtEg9JjOp66o_PgiRf-TIv7sLTBg2cjU8ikTEAhGj8Oz3QGseNKO-bS3sIwvXeg/w400-h300/20231104_201956.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> </div></li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1951 New Hudson Silver Arrow: this was an online purchase from another collector. The shipping company destroyed the original celluloid fenders. It came with all the original paperwork (which was from England). This project is finished except for shakedown rides and some cosmetic repair to the paint. </li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSNMwU7mwE5b_pH6B7iQy8LECi3j72qqmTR0DeTJ6S4idV7s_y8y-h2AJObP-iwjwI62OpMtOZ7jNOoiubaEmYnADoaD3ZX-jCklDq_h1GD80RfV7yeX7K5DHurGFNiGSUWkjc_23N1bnBMJI3rzwqHgtX3sHF20pEyx0njPMAUZx3CkrZdeWDUVGeWdo/s1843/20231112_155732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1664" data-original-width="1843" height="361" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSNMwU7mwE5b_pH6B7iQy8LECi3j72qqmTR0DeTJ6S4idV7s_y8y-h2AJObP-iwjwI62OpMtOZ7jNOoiubaEmYnADoaD3ZX-jCklDq_h1GD80RfV7yeX7K5DHurGFNiGSUWkjc_23N1bnBMJI3rzwqHgtX3sHF20pEyx0njPMAUZx3CkrZdeWDUVGeWdo/w400-h361/20231112_155732.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <br /><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1963 Raleigh roadster: this was a "export" roadster I owned for several years. I sold it to a collector down south. It's a wonderful bike but a lot of work to schlep up all the hills we have around here.</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1991 Woudt Zwaluw: this is the "wildcard" of the bunch. It was a $50 Facebook Market find. It's a legit Dutch roadster with drum brakes, chain case, rack, lights, and all the stuff the Dutch love to add to their bikes. I'm looking forward to rebuilding this one in the new year because it's so different from what I usually build. I'm thinking it might make a fun commuter for those nice days when I can ride to the office. </li></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPN9isOoSrLRJ9aYwXQYHy55LIvhwVvnJhqrTkkXskoiTu5b2ESZckA_i2a3gdTHlObyFdqiXgO9A1kBzqYn7m-7oBTHDE_byYQK7VxEl8j_Fw_R6AF5dRFk77I19o2juwLLFuL92Ct8K6Ww_Ipy8qT3qohABw412hsDfmDlt8q4XDt6l9t0RX6mHJy0/s4000/20231030_191337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPN9isOoSrLRJ9aYwXQYHy55LIvhwVvnJhqrTkkXskoiTu5b2ESZckA_i2a3gdTHlObyFdqiXgO9A1kBzqYn7m-7oBTHDE_byYQK7VxEl8j_Fw_R6AF5dRFk77I19o2juwLLFuL92Ct8K6Ww_Ipy8qT3qohABw412hsDfmDlt8q4XDt6l9t0RX6mHJy0/w400-h300/20231030_191337.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1941 Schwinn New World: this was quite a find. It's a pre-war tall frame Schwinn three speed (they seem so rare). It needs a lot of work, and we'll see what the new year brings. Sometimes the ability to see the potential in a bike is a curse because then you end up with yet another project to do... </li></ul><div><p>The other usual suspects in my fleet remain with me. They don't change much and are great bikes. <br /></p><h2 style="text-align: center;"> </h2><h2 style="text-align: center;">Closing Thoughts</h2><p style="text-align: left;">I'm enjoying the "sporting roadster" type of bike. The Lenton, Clubman, and Silver Arrow are in this league. They combine the convenience of a "Sports light roadster" type bike with the reduced weight of a sporting or club bike. They're great on all the hills we have around here.</p><p style="text-align: left;">I'm trying to focus on a specific bike size. I find a 23 inch frame on 26 inch wheels is a good fit. Bikes around that size are all pretty good for me. Not all of my bikes will be exactly this size, but I've gotten pickier about sizes fitting over the years.</p><p style="text-align: left;">I'm still accumulating "bread and butter" parts. These are the parts you always seem to need to complete a project: good brake calipers, brake handles, pedals, leather saddles, bearing sets, wheelsets, hub small parts, etc. I take in so many "saver" bikes - projects that were blown apart and deserve to be put back on the road. These bikes inevitably are missing parts, and I like to keep a stock of high-demand parts so I don't have to cast about for stuff.</p><p style="text-align: left;">I'm still a "hopeless romantic" when it comes to old three speed bikes. Why would I need yet another Schwinn or Raleigh three speed? Because I like the endless variety they offer and I enjoy riding them. I'm sure if I had a modern hybrid bike, it would be more practical. Yet here I am with a shed full of vintage steel bikes. You only live once, as they say...<br /></p></div><br /></div></div>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-58617728681587785972023-12-23T22:25:00.002-05:002023-12-23T22:25:05.899-05:00Merry Christmas<p> Merry Christmas to everyone. Hoping for a mild winter and an early start to next riding season!</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf6NoilHD0F84GDFO4BIYoG8EspxVmQ8OJwLdyk3ui5lx7Eir7nZjK6zDe4PQrFPoUSMrXw65eEqsm2o4UxSxyt6AQd-ueIpUS0mBXAxDXFbuW5NvymnL_ZmTPUD33kmONMP3FF7joY2mN9u0yi5GNiWCK4keeyCVeYmgUHhGcAxm4Ukhgbzb5AUprhyY/s4000/20231102_173351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf6NoilHD0F84GDFO4BIYoG8EspxVmQ8OJwLdyk3ui5lx7Eir7nZjK6zDe4PQrFPoUSMrXw65eEqsm2o4UxSxyt6AQd-ueIpUS0mBXAxDXFbuW5NvymnL_ZmTPUD33kmONMP3FF7joY2mN9u0yi5GNiWCK4keeyCVeYmgUHhGcAxm4Ukhgbzb5AUprhyY/w400-h300/20231102_173351.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-18328424590979066432023-11-27T10:30:00.003-05:002023-11-27T10:32:48.489-05:00Paint: Matching Aged White<p>If you've been working on old bikes, and particularly older British bikes, for awhile now, you probably have run into a case where you want to touch-up white paint (often on a rear fender). You probably tried "white" and found it actually did not match. </p><p> This is because there is a subtle and gradual fading that goes on with vintage white paint. What may have started out as "white" in 1950 or 60 from the factory may now be closer to an egg shell or even a cream type color. Sometimes there are subtle, mint green tones, or yellow tones, or even some staining. </p><p>Assuming the paint is in workable condition, I suggest starting with a light cleaning and polishing. You want to establish a "baseline" color and degree of gloss. I use NuFinish or similar car polish to bring out what the real color and gloss should be. I try to get the condition consistent across the entire part.</p><p> Next you need to start mixing your paint. I suggest a decent oil-based paint and I use the Testors model paints that come in the small glass bottles. They are inexpensive, easy to mix, and come in manageable quantities. You'll usually start with gloss, semi-gloss, or flat white, depending on how glossy your original paint condition is.</p><p>Take a disposable eye dropper and put a few drops (count them out) on mixing surface. Next, closely examine the original surface paint you are trying to match. Is it faded a little yellow? Or is it more of a mint green hue that has begun to come out? Does it have some tobacco type staining compared to your little pool of pure white paint? You'll have to decide.</p><p>Lighting here is important. I use two sources of light when trying to match paint: a cold, white colored LED accompanied by a regular incandescent type bulb. I find that LED tends to exaggerate difference in color not visible under a regular light bulb or even under sunlight. If it looks good under the LED, it tends to look even better outdoors.</p><p>Begin to mix in <u>very</u> small quantities of your tinting color. I usually have bottles of Testors light ivory (yellow tint), light brown (brown/tobacco type staining), and cream (yellow-pink tint) around. I start with less than a drop of my tint color - I usually take a tiny swipe with a very small brush and work it into the white. I keep tinting very gradually until I have a match of dry new paint to dry original paint.</p><p> Below is how I mix small quantities of paint. I use the clean bottom of a clear glass jar as a mixing surface. I keep a little paint thinner nearby to get the right thickness of paint. I keep my white and my "tinting colors" handy. Testors paints are designed to mix smoothly, and I think they're a great choice for this work. <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwkohIb1KcupLg-laZrDBVPKU08shAeA-knvlTFA2fbUGKJNDhyvtv_L78p-qtuZK8_NL_1CsjcS5T-sskuX9mrO7WWo2GCHK6Kn3cbJVdbYOfjuVjawdJUq8WT5CkYFvgLune_d2Jwo9epl1MAVcEYGwKJaPFv2EXafSjY9MHGc9cM3pCCMcta97z4gE/s4000/20231126_172457.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwkohIb1KcupLg-laZrDBVPKU08shAeA-knvlTFA2fbUGKJNDhyvtv_L78p-qtuZK8_NL_1CsjcS5T-sskuX9mrO7WWo2GCHK6Kn3cbJVdbYOfjuVjawdJUq8WT5CkYFvgLune_d2Jwo9epl1MAVcEYGwKJaPFv2EXafSjY9MHGc9cM3pCCMcta97z4gE/w400-h300/20231126_172457.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> <p></p><p>Here's an extreme example: an all-white set of fenders that I'd like to put on a 1950s Raleigh Lenton. Most of the time, you're just touching up the lower part of the rear fender, but here the entire thing is white. They were in good condition to start with and touch-up has made them even better. These are steel fenders with original paint that has been touched up. In this case the tint was a <u>very</u> small amount of cream on the rear fender and a very small amount of brown on the front fender in stained areas. The result is not bad at all.</p><p></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOoiMDTbsUNq4KPJbcsTZUTB1AYrOPJ4q-hwOLBROc320qeM1bR98N73XqnrSvdWpR5Co6P5p1lykcQXJIA0dotMwI1vIWt4tf1ep0U9cUMjCTBhRUwWTWrRta46STKZIZ-EZCEmgmLKGbITBHk7rqI9cRkEvA2rEfvSPnhYOpQa5LQikU3WERf0GiWMI/s4000/20231126_172509.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOoiMDTbsUNq4KPJbcsTZUTB1AYrOPJ4q-hwOLBROc320qeM1bR98N73XqnrSvdWpR5Co6P5p1lykcQXJIA0dotMwI1vIWt4tf1ep0U9cUMjCTBhRUwWTWrRta46STKZIZ-EZCEmgmLKGbITBHk7rqI9cRkEvA2rEfvSPnhYOpQa5LQikU3WERf0GiWMI/w300-h400/20231126_172509.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br />The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-17941304055830611482023-11-12T20:00:00.004-05:002023-11-12T20:00:53.315-05:00Birmingham Headset - 1951 New Hudson (BSA Era Production)<p>Having more or less finished the 1957 Schwinn Traveler, I've moved on to a very nice 1951 New Hudson Silver Arrow bicycle, produced by BSA. The Silver Arrow is a clubman style bike with 531 main tubes in the frame, 26 x 1-1/4 wheels and celluloid fenders.</p><p>I've done some preliminary cleaning, as well as cleaned and repacked the bottom bracket. There is nothing special about those jobs. It's a process I have covered many times before. The clean and re-pack process for the bottom bracket is the same as any run-of-the mill Raleigh Sports or similar English bike.</p><p>So let's get into something trickier: the BSA-style or "Birmingham" style headset. Whereas the common Raleigh headset takes 25x 5/32 inch loose bearing balls in each race, the Birmingham headset uses 30x 1/8 inch balls. The Birmingham headset also uses an upper race "insert". </p><p>Let's take a closer look:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_G09ovxvF5I-DBofTB_QaUE-dIP4dQ-slhplWOqEJ42ngQrcSXqSgp0a-24leuRxkSK5apk2i3enUZ3drhFThJBJJ5D79bGuUEHva3HKw6ixg-5OpnEq3gF9Hou-KYlyYOuSi9zNjApJ_Wt1GQ1wdCDlkf-B-ns2gin5h_AF3kDOcFhG1nW5ToKgkuZU/s1568/20231112_150904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1435" data-original-width="1568" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_G09ovxvF5I-DBofTB_QaUE-dIP4dQ-slhplWOqEJ42ngQrcSXqSgp0a-24leuRxkSK5apk2i3enUZ3drhFThJBJJ5D79bGuUEHva3HKw6ixg-5OpnEq3gF9Hou-KYlyYOuSi9zNjApJ_Wt1GQ1wdCDlkf-B-ns2gin5h_AF3kDOcFhG1nW5ToKgkuZU/w400-h366/20231112_150904.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Above is a top view of the head tube. As you can see, the frame does <b>not</b> include an integral bearing race. Rather, the head tube has "bowl" in it, which in turn houses a removable top race.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE4F2pBNOqDJHhwGzW3aFTlB1SZpsB1-hlH2mQFMccsHxHephyphenhyphenGoQfnUETMare2mo6aa-t3spAnyZGJh3cS5oZ-P63IXhLKCk4IaXeECWZMobMJN6EOiT78R66GIL4hFqoyabT1cwG45ywdYHUe5BaD5CG-dlR5bu8f0JIYK7Z0p85Swqecxh4Lbcmenw/s3381/20231112_150917.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2127" data-original-width="3381" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE4F2pBNOqDJHhwGzW3aFTlB1SZpsB1-hlH2mQFMccsHxHephyphenhyphenGoQfnUETMare2mo6aa-t3spAnyZGJh3cS5oZ-P63IXhLKCk4IaXeECWZMobMJN6EOiT78R66GIL4hFqoyabT1cwG45ywdYHUe5BaD5CG-dlR5bu8f0JIYK7Z0p85Swqecxh4Lbcmenw/w400-h251/20231112_150917.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>Above you can see the top race components. On the left is the insert that will sit in that "bowl" in the previous picture. At right is the top ring that screws down. </p><p> </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL9rkkGsW7iVCntRSaoFU_WiEsctxI4u6ryXkzLaSKl5BHjOhPkcjru0X-G0SNPJxAeb9IU7zWAnqgAdTdTh3L_EO_Deu-GrMCj79iZeqfS2r-Hl-SVxsM7ZQZ_bFUZQNwQ-2Zj3rTWltHeDT5bkxkM0mibbjvR_keGb_5piMvQwE0c6Apv3rM4tUK0xY/s3474/20231112_152656.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1838" data-original-width="3474" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL9rkkGsW7iVCntRSaoFU_WiEsctxI4u6ryXkzLaSKl5BHjOhPkcjru0X-G0SNPJxAeb9IU7zWAnqgAdTdTh3L_EO_Deu-GrMCj79iZeqfS2r-Hl-SVxsM7ZQZ_bFUZQNwQ-2Zj3rTWltHeDT5bkxkM0mibbjvR_keGb_5piMvQwE0c6Apv3rM4tUK0xY/w400-h211/20231112_152656.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>Above are, again, the two top components. The insert for the "bowl" has grease and the 1/8 inch bearing balls in it. It will hold 31 balls, but tends to bind if it is completely filled. It will be smoother with 30 balls, which is full minus one ball. The top screw-down ring also has been greased.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdg_eKwRC2nvffvRUoaz4xroVwE1DWJK_EHOGtBTAANcdIFhzdPQVW5_hpJZgu8K_PgYjf5TwycQ0eBcvQinOycvAnnMtq0TEqiGbakbL6SpHUtRngBmLllepsNnl3g-mVCeDuZzPYjhapGda43wVrxqNtRJVndvt8m56f6s-Zorb8X7u84rus92_8abI/s1680/20231112_150932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="995" data-original-width="1680" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdg_eKwRC2nvffvRUoaz4xroVwE1DWJK_EHOGtBTAANcdIFhzdPQVW5_hpJZgu8K_PgYjf5TwycQ0eBcvQinOycvAnnMtq0TEqiGbakbL6SpHUtRngBmLllepsNnl3g-mVCeDuZzPYjhapGda43wVrxqNtRJVndvt8m56f6s-Zorb8X7u84rus92_8abI/w400-h238/20231112_150932.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>Above is an illustration of how the two will go together. The insert will sit in the head tube "bowl" and the screw-down ring will ride on top.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqxDoC42ccbzJEPUbBGhADNg5XwQ1sw5n0zmhCx5kGb914I0Fi4UMKYpjHsj1QQG7XM3y1Mmg3RyivtvgAqdKmDdfhN1TBb5pPnpBUAloB_oy9UwTqgefMMO4x_0QDKVqFRp6MKH_Uah0hbkGODBPI1LPbkT_fOeC42ig0sqaxO9bBt5L8epaykQEk95g/s1766/20231112_152808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1665" data-original-width="1766" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqxDoC42ccbzJEPUbBGhADNg5XwQ1sw5n0zmhCx5kGb914I0Fi4UMKYpjHsj1QQG7XM3y1Mmg3RyivtvgAqdKmDdfhN1TBb5pPnpBUAloB_oy9UwTqgefMMO4x_0QDKVqFRp6MKH_Uah0hbkGODBPI1LPbkT_fOeC42ig0sqaxO9bBt5L8epaykQEk95g/s320/20231112_152808.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Above is the insert with the balls sitting in the frame "bowl". I tried a full insert of 31 balls initially, but it went much better with 30x 1/8 balls (again, full minus a ball).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZUFGyyqLd0EsXnSV-OwIrpSRHSJXMQM_ZCg6ld_X5GtRiUAEDVLIe20DYVJbId0JvMdWK9qzlLdVGszqyRxUYkDHjh9MTHlin9TuF3oQjLSwEv8HAjjpbLsIJkiVjT_8oIF60gCjV536-HnmYdC-3dC6HYD3_tlEhBu1hO6iqO1-DZ4n0wA5WxkTCgtw/s1732/20231112_150957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1172" data-original-width="1732" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZUFGyyqLd0EsXnSV-OwIrpSRHSJXMQM_ZCg6ld_X5GtRiUAEDVLIe20DYVJbId0JvMdWK9qzlLdVGszqyRxUYkDHjh9MTHlin9TuF3oQjLSwEv8HAjjpbLsIJkiVjT_8oIF60gCjV536-HnmYdC-3dC6HYD3_tlEhBu1hO6iqO1-DZ4n0wA5WxkTCgtw/w400-h271/20231112_150957.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p> </p><p>What about the bottom of the headset? Well, the bottom is conventional - the frame cup is pressed into the head tube as normal. However, keep in mind <b>you're using 30x 1/8 balls, not the usual "Raleigh" type 5/32. </b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgceB8s15VS1S4p2WrsMh6savZ6YYFrWTWe1PsCyLm2bx9BcnX-xZo-JF_2svj5igFeL9eah0PusodkcqgtbWjmEk5PSdDAjR9vzU4KR_49Mga3GsAoFDIFB1bR66-zxhDRvSYU51k82EJ7CnyTAsbBx5EBvdqMRvNgApCVF4PsIL0iXnwaqTDbiWcFukc/s2144/20231112_151019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1782" data-original-width="2144" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgceB8s15VS1S4p2WrsMh6savZ6YYFrWTWe1PsCyLm2bx9BcnX-xZo-JF_2svj5igFeL9eah0PusodkcqgtbWjmEk5PSdDAjR9vzU4KR_49Mga3GsAoFDIFB1bR66-zxhDRvSYU51k82EJ7CnyTAsbBx5EBvdqMRvNgApCVF4PsIL0iXnwaqTDbiWcFukc/w400-h333/20231112_151019.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> <p></p><p>And above is the fork crown race, also conventional except that it takes the 1/8 inch balls.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS3ifAGEAYmnvIxzV94Yolz2wPec_oMPJ3x3UYp2uFWT1vLdBeViyY3NnMa78WzgA8_zzr3lYejG1GduImRJCNy9rVY1sjNlS3h3wkieAnf2JrfljagPE80mkJ_x70W_FeEk3aVs4GTQxyDu9h0EX0r-FC_R92uYMPcPvB046q8Cy5dSO5HUCoN1tIf-Y/s3621/20231112_155629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1788" data-original-width="3621" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS3ifAGEAYmnvIxzV94Yolz2wPec_oMPJ3x3UYp2uFWT1vLdBeViyY3NnMa78WzgA8_zzr3lYejG1GduImRJCNy9rVY1sjNlS3h3wkieAnf2JrfljagPE80mkJ_x70W_FeEk3aVs4GTQxyDu9h0EX0r-FC_R92uYMPcPvB046q8Cy5dSO5HUCoN1tIf-Y/w400-h198/20231112_155629.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p> </p><p>Above are my crude notes drawn in Sharpie on a paper towel while working. This is as much to remind myself of how to set up this headset as it is any other purpose. I'm very accustomed to the Raleigh system of 25 balls at 5/32 apiece. I needed a note to myself that this Brimingham headset likes to run 30x balls at 1/8 inch apiece.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiGpcfXJMIioStRfKSRQzynJaQQtkbi1cSeTApTi9fhPCH-eQqyIpTVw0wE9LAP8Ph6KWW8WcnspOWBwASO5bKvEPF7czPbECiQAsvCs6ihzTO4JIX0oRa7gl6n5FDsyG5K7wl2LtDlZpkdmioPvROmP8Xzuuicjz5-nFjLYVoqcMecR2PxVmmk4LkDaI/s1843/20231112_155732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1664" data-original-width="1843" height="361" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiGpcfXJMIioStRfKSRQzynJaQQtkbi1cSeTApTi9fhPCH-eQqyIpTVw0wE9LAP8Ph6KWW8WcnspOWBwASO5bKvEPF7czPbECiQAsvCs6ihzTO4JIX0oRa7gl6n5FDsyG5K7wl2LtDlZpkdmioPvROmP8Xzuuicjz5-nFjLYVoqcMecR2PxVmmk4LkDaI/w400-h361/20231112_155732.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />And a quit shot of the New Hudson head badge. Pretty cool... <br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-41839236712483668072023-11-04T23:06:00.008-04:002023-11-07T09:37:29.109-05:001957 Schwinn Traveler Three Speed: An "In-Betweener" Schwinn Light Roadster<p> </p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPM7ouEL63W1nlFJ86xGkCmQBuECsO_ky4SLHOSTR3nHrP2a5EdL74mg7Lp2pPaFa89TIVZoFoQ7SRUTQiN-3DeAMY1jB2sbg0zLPZo5a6VSBQjaxjoX_lOiKs7pDi_wn_0WjBmERS8-j1AlXGI4uRC9NX8W9eEcEMGCJ-0Tk72konUtc4_WS1goPWXm0/s2500/20231104_201956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2352" data-original-width="2500" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPM7ouEL63W1nlFJ86xGkCmQBuECsO_ky4SLHOSTR3nHrP2a5EdL74mg7Lp2pPaFa89TIVZoFoQ7SRUTQiN-3DeAMY1jB2sbg0zLPZo5a6VSBQjaxjoX_lOiKs7pDi_wn_0WjBmERS8-j1AlXGI4uRC9NX8W9eEcEMGCJ-0Tk72konUtc4_WS1goPWXm0/w400-h376/20231104_201956.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> <p></p><p>I have finally finished my rather gradually-conducted rebuild of a 1957 Schwinn Traveler tall frame bike. This three speed dates to an unusual period in Schwinn touring bike production. I like to think of this era of Schwinn three speeds as "in-betweener" bikes. They came after the well-known "wing theme" Schwinn and before the equally well-known Schwinns that had the gold lettering and ornate tri-color graphics. These bikes with simpler graphics tend to be less common and less well-known. They're still worth a look though.</p><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPseFXhbHUN5G2CND8s3hAXCs3TYJosqzn21-DIIr5oY_-4rUGEJasLw4SfDsRf4VbqrO1kBUksXqTvq8wc7ir8GW8f8T4CErcogldMt_cJxcQSP8RhXEgxnNewKZ5cHNoDsmuRlx0JyeS7TXLF8BvOg-Ri-FlnjQcdrVJvti1LBmaPVDDFey4jSdJsvY/s4000/20231104_202027.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPseFXhbHUN5G2CND8s3hAXCs3TYJosqzn21-DIIr5oY_-4rUGEJasLw4SfDsRf4VbqrO1kBUksXqTvq8wc7ir8GW8f8T4CErcogldMt_cJxcQSP8RhXEgxnNewKZ5cHNoDsmuRlx0JyeS7TXLF8BvOg-Ri-FlnjQcdrVJvti1LBmaPVDDFey4jSdJsvY/w400-h300/20231104_202027.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>For a brief period in the mid-1950s, Schwinn used these rather simple graphics on their bikes. They look like they belong on an 1980s-90s era bike, but are in fact from the mid-1950s. These graphics came after the ornate "wing" theme graphics of the early 1950s but before the ornate gold and tri-color graphics of the late 1950s and early 1960s.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl2I020XhZrIb5j0fLzDChcutR6ZwWh-e4WrNMVva8FlQVcbjgfNwepD_8pQ-4LyDHW9Lh3UpJS7TjO3rVAHbz-nbCHx9zxksio93357x1Ww87-VjDAAVxeXfTnR0E5bWFKDLnFxAXM6ZGzWbXzqDOKN5xU0Jq_h26vy34hq44yn_MNyRYTqtcagy0Pz8/s4000/20231104_202111.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl2I020XhZrIb5j0fLzDChcutR6ZwWh-e4WrNMVva8FlQVcbjgfNwepD_8pQ-4LyDHW9Lh3UpJS7TjO3rVAHbz-nbCHx9zxksio93357x1Ww87-VjDAAVxeXfTnR0E5bWFKDLnFxAXM6ZGzWbXzqDOKN5xU0Jq_h26vy34hq44yn_MNyRYTqtcagy0Pz8/w400-h300/20231104_202111.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>Another interesting feature is that this bike comes from the tail end of the period when Schwinn used many fillet brazed joints around the seat mast, and the torpedo tubular fork up front. After this, three speed Schwinn touring bike frames had more welded joints, and had flat "ashtabula" type forks in front. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2wICTKX6A1Ye5yzSJmWJkKVMOERPpUCPts0tJCVDLG1RGnoRBnUq6Kv6ItP2TV2rD3npI8QwXfxGSOkjK-hXavLu9Q094zTlIJldxppQ5PieO-XsoIEmVQGXsJtt0jRcvSn39Igw5nch2SFDOYB9qUptvNFKYvq0CRFqmwPSlqY7EXlGwy6ZkEYEPGs/s4000/20231104_202038.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2wICTKX6A1Ye5yzSJmWJkKVMOERPpUCPts0tJCVDLG1RGnoRBnUq6Kv6ItP2TV2rD3npI8QwXfxGSOkjK-hXavLu9Q094zTlIJldxppQ5PieO-XsoIEmVQGXsJtt0jRcvSn39Igw5nch2SFDOYB9qUptvNFKYvq0CRFqmwPSlqY7EXlGwy6ZkEYEPGs/w400-h300/20231104_202038.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>The brake calipers on this bike are also "in-betweener" parts: they came after Schwinn's use of the 1950s-era "Weinmann" inscribed brakes, but before the more common brakes with "Schwinn Approved" in cursive on them. These have "Schwinn Approved" in a simple block inscription. The brakes are Weinmann 810 models made of aluminum. The brake levers are common 1950s era Weinmann red dots.<br /></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWlScY1b09puaC24g5Cp-uFSQZ6vbkO2vMDXrvRupHW3Q97o2cF07s99y6er98Wt7kk5kfD9X-qnJc9Rz-w1ONU5cOpafo2NtBdcSwpThyOAox0DgPP6LlxTuya_QOjQfXaxtZazVXnRqtmUlHb5wz_wBA5FFWI_MQgxGdGrzsIq8UHJ1niz9o-5abxOo/s4000/20230910_201354.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWlScY1b09puaC24g5Cp-uFSQZ6vbkO2vMDXrvRupHW3Q97o2cF07s99y6er98Wt7kk5kfD9X-qnJc9Rz-w1ONU5cOpafo2NtBdcSwpThyOAox0DgPP6LlxTuya_QOjQfXaxtZazVXnRqtmUlHb5wz_wBA5FFWI_MQgxGdGrzsIq8UHJ1niz9o-5abxOo/w400-h300/20230910_201354.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p></p><p>For the most part though, this is otherwise a nice, straightforward three speed from the 1950s. It has a Sturmey Archer AW rear hub (I replaced the 1957 SW with a 1957 AW alloy model), chrome plated steel Schwinn S6 rims, Torrington double-butted spokes, and a Schwinn script front hub. Fenders are the always eye-catching Schwinn stainless types with a fin on the front fender. I gave the fenders a mirror polish on my polishing wheel, with final finish done by hand. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNzdk1i0Kxo1WhnAqp06Y8-7zNa1ERactMAAVQ8aiGY9XGXofr8hMXC1_bEdTTpjSsdDPBrRfx1b4F4YWR8ZA7fQaPkaxl8Nbu42wZYMOScmVEyYv5fG5wg0hfIHT843RZNh1UJ2XDvMSavx9ZCjZ-ghMECE7_mO7EnwV9F7w4i23nnHSEjcOK4EuoH5Y/s4000/20231104_202103.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNzdk1i0Kxo1WhnAqp06Y8-7zNa1ERactMAAVQ8aiGY9XGXofr8hMXC1_bEdTTpjSsdDPBrRfx1b4F4YWR8ZA7fQaPkaxl8Nbu42wZYMOScmVEyYv5fG5wg0hfIHT843RZNh1UJ2XDvMSavx9ZCjZ-ghMECE7_mO7EnwV9F7w4i23nnHSEjcOK4EuoH5Y/w400-h300/20231104_202103.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> The photo above reminds me I need to wipe all the hand prints off the fenders as the next thing I do. All those smudge spots are finger prints from working on the bike...<br /><p></p><p>It has the classic Schwinn one-piece crank with clover sprocket. Gear ratio is 46 teeth in front and 22 teeth in back, which is a pretty forgiving ratio that I enjoy for general purpose riding. The shifter is a Sturmey window type that I rebuilt a couple of years ago (if you've never used a freshly rebuilt and cleaned shifter with a good spring, it's something worth trying). <br /></p><p>This 1957 model is a beautiful green color similar to that on my 1959 Schwinn Traveler. Over time, these two-stage automotive-style colors have grown on me. They probably look kind of gaudy to British or European three speed purists, but I've come to appreciate their mid-century, American look.</p><p></p><p>My usual choices are present for lighting, saddle, and tires. The rear light is a Soma bullet/torpedo LED, which goes great with any old school American bike up through the mid-1960s. The front is a Kiley LED chrome bullet, which is great for any old style three speed bike. Tires are Kenda white walls. A classic 1950s American bike deserves white walls. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieGsQNC6Ana1B_K82QNKsq-9cFciz621j1y9jh3RMXECGk0TSCg8ek7iCgIcCniEHWZgElK-DVqOh3WWfloRDgzAJR2v0gage1_AUK-m8YpcF2ZFUN7KXYa9vXrD2I0b6v-OFYr1d9dKXtG1jhF1DI1FvZeBALRkh7HLt-MwikjTDeQ96JBkWundECvBY/s4000/20231104_202043.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieGsQNC6Ana1B_K82QNKsq-9cFciz621j1y9jh3RMXECGk0TSCg8ek7iCgIcCniEHWZgElK-DVqOh3WWfloRDgzAJR2v0gage1_AUK-m8YpcF2ZFUN7KXYa9vXrD2I0b6v-OFYr1d9dKXtG1jhF1DI1FvZeBALRkh7HLt-MwikjTDeQ96JBkWundECvBY/w400-h300/20231104_202043.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>I even included a little automotive touch - a traditional Chevrolet lapel pin on the saddle bag, which is a reference to the classic 1957 Chevy cars. The bag itself is the reliable, basic Banjo Brothers barrel type.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnMEQ7_Z0tndhVffuVBVX1a65-EnUW-z9uLVIY8Ro1bQsnBnCsVofxajscYRj7Zj3dkSFpVsVTxQdpd9HujcoS-LhMcAaDhNkMpKwKdljpq4DAWbFeAh5VkJkJgeXrKctgd4fB1OrNpl5uqpEuu6liROVCvgutvfLQ_VjPWuIpA4xh_IwJisHSpHiYF8I/s4000/20231104_202144.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnMEQ7_Z0tndhVffuVBVX1a65-EnUW-z9uLVIY8Ro1bQsnBnCsVofxajscYRj7Zj3dkSFpVsVTxQdpd9HujcoS-LhMcAaDhNkMpKwKdljpq4DAWbFeAh5VkJkJgeXrKctgd4fB1OrNpl5uqpEuu6liROVCvgutvfLQ_VjPWuIpA4xh_IwJisHSpHiYF8I/w400-h300/20231104_202144.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>One item remains to be seen, which is whether I put the aftermarket rear rack back on the bike. This bike came with a Joannou-branded West German rack made from aluminum. It's a pretty nice rack. The issue is that the stock clamps that came with the rack were for the larger seat stays of an English three speed. These American three speeds have very thin seat stays with thick tube walls. The original owner made up for this with layers of electrical tape to pad the stay clamps used by the rack. Ideally I would find a smaller set of P-clamps to use with the rack. But then again I generally don't use a rear rack and it's more weight to power up the steep hills around here. We'll see if it stays off the bike...</p><p></p><p>So the good news is that the bike is basically done and ready for shakedown rides. The bad news is that the season is almost over, so any real riding with it probably won't happen until next spring. Maybe I'll get a shakedown ride or two in before things are done for the year. I'd really like to have this in a "ready to go" state when next season starts.<br /><br /></p><br />The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-89906345778707413552023-11-03T10:19:00.000-04:002023-11-03T10:19:03.075-04:00Thoughts for the End of the Bike Riding Season in New England<p> With the arrival of November comes the usual end to the biking season here in western New England. I took my 1940 Raleigh Model 35 out for a ride last evening, which certainly was a chilly one. But with some additional layers, it wasn't a bad ride at all.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVDkF9ZCR1CcMqHMWVAkGXUmH1oEVURxsn1xqlFYBZHFXJGaG2KK8QwAFPEd9BtUhVoKyvFzft7CDG2RQC5v-RnnyC0BanvI_mxa8g9O9wh13WrcUQqSGd7kVge890-JG_2xnhS-DuTYPlvYWr2rq-pdvZBoxN_lmhYnuuPb93CxokSiuuKcGUO7BHMtw/s4000/20231102_173351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVDkF9ZCR1CcMqHMWVAkGXUmH1oEVURxsn1xqlFYBZHFXJGaG2KK8QwAFPEd9BtUhVoKyvFzft7CDG2RQC5v-RnnyC0BanvI_mxa8g9O9wh13WrcUQqSGd7kVge890-JG_2xnhS-DuTYPlvYWr2rq-pdvZBoxN_lmhYnuuPb93CxokSiuuKcGUO7BHMtw/w400-h300/20231102_173351.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>This season was a tough one in terms of weather. I lost probably 30% of my usual ride time to rain. There were also a couple nights lost to extreme wild fire smoke, but the big problem certainly was the rain. We had a cool, rainy summer to say the least. This held true into the early fall.</p><p>One saving grace was that we had a couple weeks of warm, dry weather in October, which helped redeem the season to some degree. I was able to ride right up through the first week of November. The turning back of the clocks that we have every year in early November usually puts an end to the season. I might be able to slip a ride in on a warm afternoon or two later this month, but we're basically done here for those after-work rides I take 3 times per week.</p><p>Road conditions were probably "average" this season. Car traffic was up somewhat, and some of the roads I ride continued to decline in condition. One local road was totally repaved, which improved things there a bit. But the main roads around here certainly need some repair. </p><p>Pedestrian usage seemed about average. I saw a fair number of pedestrians and other bikes on the road. The number of group rides and organized training rides I encounter was down this summer compared to the last two summers. The rainy weather probably had a lot to do with that.</p><p>Overall, I would rate the riding season as below average in quality. The rain was a problem, and the main roads need repair. I always enjoy riding season, but some are better than others. This one wasn't the worst, but I'd rate it as slightly below average. It would have been worse, had we not had some better weather by the time October arrived. <br /></p><p><br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-6657510365190144692023-11-01T14:29:00.004-04:002023-11-06T11:48:28.811-05:00A Facebook Market Find - 1991 Dutch Zwaluw Roadster<p>Here's something different - a Dutch roadster made by Woudt's shop under the Zwaluw brand. The model is a "Nevada" roadster. This bike has 28 inch wheels with Sturmey Archer drum brakes front and rear. The rear hub is also a 3-speed. These Steelite Sturmey hubs date to 1991.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO_Q7RDsq0LDJIERDOF2i2CLwB2g3PenpankaXux_SlCJA_Qn3-dHoUQ0Xhm6FC3wAMoVoDBBLliVg7vNUNxn5K0WUPUvxg_TNSipIRQZWOdtA14Ovx-43OS85oJoMvQ_1HBDMM9tukO83PXfdd7uuASKLhbR1JlT4EPrcLtneV5xqytBAiYB43rLcozw/s3536/20231030_191221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2640" data-original-width="3536" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO_Q7RDsq0LDJIERDOF2i2CLwB2g3PenpankaXux_SlCJA_Qn3-dHoUQ0Xhm6FC3wAMoVoDBBLliVg7vNUNxn5K0WUPUvxg_TNSipIRQZWOdtA14Ovx-43OS85oJoMvQ_1HBDMM9tukO83PXfdd7uuASKLhbR1JlT4EPrcLtneV5xqytBAiYB43rLcozw/w400-h299/20231030_191221.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>A helpful user at BikeForums identified this as a Zwaluw bike made by Woudt in Koog aan de Zaan, Netherlands. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTvxxjwULeF1n3e2SPChHTIaX5O_wPCPgxCobbMXt7-l7YIz1u8nchs0GxKyxtWT3esdqVNd3RvH7D7-ahlX9GK8aNVFXvM7L6wmKA9mzBd7Wwr7mZqqTaPpIHWyxNNP4-THHhxRqohRCAJFTBnKIMn9DSGlB2ng2sLxitWEEADsbA4jR3S6Sw9_FGtlI/s4000/20231030_191228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTvxxjwULeF1n3e2SPChHTIaX5O_wPCPgxCobbMXt7-l7YIz1u8nchs0GxKyxtWT3esdqVNd3RvH7D7-ahlX9GK8aNVFXvM7L6wmKA9mzBd7Wwr7mZqqTaPpIHWyxNNP4-THHhxRqohRCAJFTBnKIMn9DSGlB2ng2sLxitWEEADsbA4jR3S6Sw9_FGtlI/w300-h400/20231030_191228.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p> He also identified the electro-pen registration number as being a registration out of Wormerveer, Netherlands. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TsAknW8elTXZceIQFsdhxgO5aX9VKNJm4E7lARfmZ9aZRv2I8UOqvccqw01LE76S2heqKrN1LGOfe95TKupX8kPYsCfjA3sS6E4v0AgSDUZw5NKkmQPOYwO5XKX62C2tPAQalLE9coWOxzWGz9ATf8UUnv9TOcDc4RnysIIp_n8jI_99_psz_eHrGcQ/s3025/20231030_213537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3025" data-original-width="1785" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TsAknW8elTXZceIQFsdhxgO5aX9VKNJm4E7lARfmZ9aZRv2I8UOqvccqw01LE76S2heqKrN1LGOfe95TKupX8kPYsCfjA3sS6E4v0AgSDUZw5NKkmQPOYwO5XKX62C2tPAQalLE9coWOxzWGz9ATf8UUnv9TOcDc4RnysIIp_n8jI_99_psz_eHrGcQ/w236-h400/20231030_213537.jpg" width="236" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><p>This bike is newer than my others, but it was traditional in design, inexpensive and relatively local to me.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEOgAhvmE-IKuAFDSkw3mKXa5EqthoOgOF0FvyJogwyUv_ZRmjUCbf-2n6iYSi9h0_Gzc-3qEYn63QSzHIWSK3q1eyfCG-7JrOrZwDI9K97IMCa3ybMPku9v8X575wtnGgqJWH79fOnTquwoZ2TZss0XVvCFtZ2LBd_q6DyS4gNeCfZeMmYoyoGTYWAPE/s4000/20231030_191341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEOgAhvmE-IKuAFDSkw3mKXa5EqthoOgOF0FvyJogwyUv_ZRmjUCbf-2n6iYSi9h0_Gzc-3qEYn63QSzHIWSK3q1eyfCG-7JrOrZwDI9K97IMCa3ybMPku9v8X575wtnGgqJWH79fOnTquwoZ2TZss0XVvCFtZ2LBd_q6DyS4gNeCfZeMmYoyoGTYWAPE/w400-h300/20231030_191341.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFbFeB2xAJfbrapeBjtbJXiFRhb-jIxDUje1zFUwxFmhRJA0GkilejcCwFFp4z2hYNOqDAe4_NCtqeNdBgomGzzGhN5OX-9vAjWTQZAusxM_v3KCBe7XuGCKFUm8gbz1LqKyDkpkU8lrR5rwAV6v2nw7Vb6N7VeMyRlDjAo3QLSu8vFdTtOLIUYKs4-XQ/s4000/20231030_191348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFbFeB2xAJfbrapeBjtbJXiFRhb-jIxDUje1zFUwxFmhRJA0GkilejcCwFFp4z2hYNOqDAe4_NCtqeNdBgomGzzGhN5OX-9vAjWTQZAusxM_v3KCBe7XuGCKFUm8gbz1LqKyDkpkU8lrR5rwAV6v2nw7Vb6N7VeMyRlDjAo3QLSu8vFdTtOLIUYKs4-XQ/w400-h300/20231030_191348.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p> It caught my attention because after some additional looking, it turned out to be a true Made-in-Holland roadster and not a reproduction or knock-off. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMKFCyweYtkPpAxy_s-i9JD3k60lrLTZFR4XH4bOWiJ2SsJpO6Lsn3cyhtO_CM4FFlFO_jKw_wDWxCdehcCN5FfLPUB588Zn0SebEOGy-wZhe-iLelAqNLQOww3hFvocfXeW2OYqXub2UD0dETPkAh6wuClSC75gsxPo1WwcS-42Bq2gKCv5tQzE8Cscs/s3511/20231030_191244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2662" data-original-width="3511" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMKFCyweYtkPpAxy_s-i9JD3k60lrLTZFR4XH4bOWiJ2SsJpO6Lsn3cyhtO_CM4FFlFO_jKw_wDWxCdehcCN5FfLPUB588Zn0SebEOGy-wZhe-iLelAqNLQOww3hFvocfXeW2OYqXub2UD0dETPkAh6wuClSC75gsxPo1WwcS-42Bq2gKCv5tQzE8Cscs/w400-h304/20231030_191244.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>It has the typical Dutch accessories: rack, lights, cargo straps, spoke guards, etc. It is a lugged, steel frame. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQT587msYruciTWANWF2KNMpafOBG6Je0goXIgkRqy_kIOWBiXpJIvd7DVYh-NgEr-QpZRr-XA5CVxQarfxQw1iWYqXnqp58W2Qha1J0zGh6jdZMGU87WfBxPvvJfDu5jxhvU3NVmJeVFQOiCCIHvF_zLW2nnyg9RIKSjc0RLiG70zhSXiG2HvfNcWr9U/s3029/20231030_191430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2360" data-original-width="3029" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQT587msYruciTWANWF2KNMpafOBG6Je0goXIgkRqy_kIOWBiXpJIvd7DVYh-NgEr-QpZRr-XA5CVxQarfxQw1iWYqXnqp58W2Qha1J0zGh6jdZMGU87WfBxPvvJfDu5jxhvU3NVmJeVFQOiCCIHvF_zLW2nnyg9RIKSjc0RLiG70zhSXiG2HvfNcWr9U/w400-h311/20231030_191430.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>The pump is missing, and it appears to have been a single-ended type pump (there's only one pump boss and no sign there was ever a second one). </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc6BC6xFo3YvVbJZdqEiYvjfqWnePM7_LzxGBmH2aurpRjDqs3wjiacQfjNgW-xExzzJIBqf3h0U1Q2jpFmE_giUNv_sLcGotYOjelF_svNujXD4NqPfxkvqyGrq9cPUAKWQ1hbS6TOnKdLzQZJeuH9hdAu3vu4sHjgftcnrDUcAvwizicgBQdHUTRpHI/s4000/20231030_191409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc6BC6xFo3YvVbJZdqEiYvjfqWnePM7_LzxGBmH2aurpRjDqs3wjiacQfjNgW-xExzzJIBqf3h0U1Q2jpFmE_giUNv_sLcGotYOjelF_svNujXD4NqPfxkvqyGrq9cPUAKWQ1hbS6TOnKdLzQZJeuH9hdAu3vu4sHjgftcnrDUcAvwizicgBQdHUTRpHI/w300-h400/20231030_191409.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>Overall, the condition is pretty good. I really like the subtle, blue-grey color.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6r4X_8LmDXzVaO9zgY0E9N5E3bzx16U-VRrm6KAnQCj9VWnxFAY_XzgsRStvTBTE7FKPcuZaQLm3qdgoUzjfebD242W5k_1rK4gN8caV-GOgHNX6ND1EueVpHB3X-An4cr_9Jv-zlUfEK31ftAXi2_c_t7B9NEAQ8o6blRJupSx8Lcv9ikVvUejBdYDk/s4000/20231030_191357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6r4X_8LmDXzVaO9zgY0E9N5E3bzx16U-VRrm6KAnQCj9VWnxFAY_XzgsRStvTBTE7FKPcuZaQLm3qdgoUzjfebD242W5k_1rK4gN8caV-GOgHNX6ND1EueVpHB3X-An4cr_9Jv-zlUfEK31ftAXi2_c_t7B9NEAQ8o6blRJupSx8Lcv9ikVvUejBdYDk/w400-h300/20231030_191357.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLlhNwOGaZHdIIWwKjAR1Cf4Wcbjdxw4fRIeRtAw4bzi-DcUwdROa-UIlu4-W1CQ1rXzVJKIQf5wjsp-PV6LW00ixf2OSBEqvk8peNGBn_MW8Ca15VS83u3COpW_2mB5YTQt8xkspu376l8eFxVZN6Jp8N2fCyYqWKNBewQUa3LiYhl9F4ylp3dZarYOs/s4000/20231030_191337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLlhNwOGaZHdIIWwKjAR1Cf4Wcbjdxw4fRIeRtAw4bzi-DcUwdROa-UIlu4-W1CQ1rXzVJKIQf5wjsp-PV6LW00ixf2OSBEqvk8peNGBn_MW8Ca15VS83u3COpW_2mB5YTQt8xkspu376l8eFxVZN6Jp8N2fCyYqWKNBewQUa3LiYhl9F4ylp3dZarYOs/w400-h300/20231030_191337.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p> </p><p>So for projects, here is what remains:</p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>Finish up the 1957 Schwinn Traveler (almost done, just need to do shakedown ride/tweaking)</li><li>1951 New Hudson Silver Arrow (need to finish the wheels, clean, and assemble)</li><li>1991 Zwaluw Nevada (clean, and fully re-build)</li></ol><p>At some point in the near future, my grandfather's 1936 Schwinn Henderson needs a clean and re-grease as well (periodic maintenance, but still needs doing). <br /></p><p> I also need to start the transition from my warm weather shop in the garage to my cold weather shop in the house. There's a fair bit of cleaning and organizing to do when that happens. <br /></p><p> <br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-32558463514635366662023-10-28T22:14:00.003-04:002023-10-28T22:19:24.299-04:00A Unique Find - 1938 Raleigh USA Catalog<p>Here's a great, recent find - a Raleigh US market catalog from 1938. This catalog gives us a nice picture of Raleigh's presence in the US market in the early days.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOIdVDmZCJS7VEvT7lgsEyhHuu1c6g36urxCo6myGjRFl-r8ODf-aYvElkMLpLlj9VWEJrUYdgiWVkJsXOKT9xiLQWclYoSOXNXaZlF21U2YLQ-grwtOw9c0iFg38mjCG3EqymozcVqoNsN1zsE8QLszcryj7SojE2UfngYi8WekR5N42oiPZqRVk6kqA/s3000/20231027_164516.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="2784" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOIdVDmZCJS7VEvT7lgsEyhHuu1c6g36urxCo6myGjRFl-r8ODf-aYvElkMLpLlj9VWEJrUYdgiWVkJsXOKT9xiLQWclYoSOXNXaZlF21U2YLQ-grwtOw9c0iFg38mjCG3EqymozcVqoNsN1zsE8QLszcryj7SojE2UfngYi8WekR5N42oiPZqRVk6kqA/w371-h400/20231027_164516.jpg" width="371" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>This catalog places the arrival of Raleigh in the US to around 1933. Raleigh USA began in Boston, Massachusetts and expanded from there. By 1938, Raleigh had a presence, through dealerships, in 32 states. </p><p></p><br /> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy7aRlgYk89w5ljRming5DirempUvOC7UcAVWQZZGWstHSKbL6L_1dE8ppOcVOm59vTkFjNVj55MJAodYlGvKdxm59IFEDPRORoMOzuCj-oBZFlY97vDqOVv8ii15k0-JJSXn6rbmqB28egqEiiTnqPz2a72Vq3mi9uKqPtf5BIFgPkXsKaFE3_gUmXjo/s4000/20231027_164526.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy7aRlgYk89w5ljRming5DirempUvOC7UcAVWQZZGWstHSKbL6L_1dE8ppOcVOm59vTkFjNVj55MJAodYlGvKdxm59IFEDPRORoMOzuCj-oBZFlY97vDqOVv8ii15k0-JJSXn6rbmqB28egqEiiTnqPz2a72Vq3mi9uKqPtf5BIFgPkXsKaFE3_gUmXjo/w400-h300/20231027_164526.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>The catalog offerings from 1938 were still somewhat limited in the US. The catalog shows:</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li> cable brake light roadster model, </li><li>rod brake light roadster, </li><li>full rod brake roadster</li><li>child's model</li><li>carrier/cargo bike</li><li>and three sporting/road models </li></ul><p>The catalog is certainly more limited and less colorful than its British counterpart.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIakrpTlDW7Xcs6OEeIVgidviryZqD_HdYcZq-sUUx6DJEJ1IJKcjb_d5szS_IecMx87msUBS0hdYBZVDS38bYx7_KmWTJr6b0I4q5chCF9G8A6ft-ze8dTbKSE8R_W4QSv9Ru-52088fO9bUKyvsq_Q1faBc57cDYAh9IfRSmy7PFH-o9VACqNWODdiA/s4000/20231027_164532.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIakrpTlDW7Xcs6OEeIVgidviryZqD_HdYcZq-sUUx6DJEJ1IJKcjb_d5szS_IecMx87msUBS0hdYBZVDS38bYx7_KmWTJr6b0I4q5chCF9G8A6ft-ze8dTbKSE8R_W4QSv9Ru-52088fO9bUKyvsq_Q1faBc57cDYAh9IfRSmy7PFH-o9VACqNWODdiA/w400-h300/20231027_164532.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>Where the offerings do not fall short are in the parts and accessories area, which includes numerous items to help make cycling easier. The emphasis was on a combination of practical cycling (even a cycling poncho and rain hat are offered), and on sporting (numerous touring bags, pedal toe clips, etc.). I love this little time capsule from the early days of practical cycling and three speed bikes in the US.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinXfou6IDi7tkhczndCAAnKXJobRzpQ5pMT73Ex8DkuQingKuZE5uTDTSbBqsrHX61pcYno4GxW3E1Nh6Nan28jQ_YqHLQ6C9uCViFajXbCsipgQhjyxxCmmBFdj-mzWhsXn1Gig3FP2s0zOPhPmXDH5MNJ5hF7T6VclH4Rq5trM_ZhnBzWqw_aQVyMzc/s4000/20231027_164543.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinXfou6IDi7tkhczndCAAnKXJobRzpQ5pMT73Ex8DkuQingKuZE5uTDTSbBqsrHX61pcYno4GxW3E1Nh6Nan28jQ_YqHLQ6C9uCViFajXbCsipgQhjyxxCmmBFdj-mzWhsXn1Gig3FP2s0zOPhPmXDH5MNJ5hF7T6VclH4Rq5trM_ZhnBzWqw_aQVyMzc/w400-h300/20231027_164543.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> <p></p><p>I have submitted a full scan of the catalog to the Veteran Cycle Club library. If you enjoy British bicycles and are not yet a member of the <a href="https://v-cc.org.uk/" target="_blank">VCC</a>, I highly recommend joining.</p><p>I plan to study this catalog further, and to do a more general entry on early utility bikes in the US prior to WWII in the future.</p><p> <br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><br />The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-67203010468307195002023-10-27T17:17:00.006-04:002023-10-27T17:17:33.405-04:00Late Season Rides - 1959 Schwinn Traveler Three Speed<p> We've had excellent weather here this week, with temperatures above 70 deg. F (21 deg. C.). So I took a couple of different bikes out for rides this week: 1940 Raleigh Model 35, 1953 Raleigh Lenton, and 1959 Schwinn Traveler. All of these are fun, solid bicycles to ride on a warm autumn day.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmA0gE2FNiEou_LvSRic8AGMvbEnb67yDizh4v9OfK5nsIlgWOboj3fyLEd3NmHDV8CO-Po9HiqOoEWITREWodrx6svzZtosMVSbfnlLQL0Uf04IUNaRghNkrMUi5HbjUJ-UalLL5qxHGhttPtrwCJGjTSXCerwxW3XAsbLnwoBxk3Z7ZOnp8qIaE5Xg/s4000/20231026_174603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmA0gE2FNiEou_LvSRic8AGMvbEnb67yDizh4v9OfK5nsIlgWOboj3fyLEd3NmHDV8CO-Po9HiqOoEWITREWodrx6svzZtosMVSbfnlLQL0Uf04IUNaRghNkrMUi5HbjUJ-UalLL5qxHGhttPtrwCJGjTSXCerwxW3XAsbLnwoBxk3Z7ZOnp8qIaE5Xg/w400-h300/20231026_174603.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> <p></p><p>The 1959 Traveler needed some minor maintenance. I've found there's a break-in period for every rebuilt, vintage bicycle. This usually means minor adjustments to the brakes, touch-ups to paint, and truing to wheels. Sometimes the rear hub needs a little oil, or handle bars or a saddle need adjustment. In this case, I needed to adjust the front brake and true the front wheel. Thankfully, nothing more than that so far.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcSmXLMa7czMjMjch4FkbP01wyL-NOOHhJYHUw6Tom3Pd6Bkqs34RMwAxghuNOLctn9gF2HqHN-RrMsn19GQAOFDTq5MGU__QCEbjWp4E1DApj5H_vasatQoPznQxvKAH3Ju_ld__YzbkVxArbM-xv_lUBaFe1a-9eZR7hOHpETVRnIVfhWCsm0JG7koM/s4000/20231026_174546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcSmXLMa7czMjMjch4FkbP01wyL-NOOHhJYHUw6Tom3Pd6Bkqs34RMwAxghuNOLctn9gF2HqHN-RrMsn19GQAOFDTq5MGU__QCEbjWp4E1DApj5H_vasatQoPznQxvKAH3Ju_ld__YzbkVxArbM-xv_lUBaFe1a-9eZR7hOHpETVRnIVfhWCsm0JG7koM/w400-h300/20231026_174546.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>I try to ride every day that I can this time of year because the season is so close to ending. I probably have 10 days or so left to ride in the evening after work. Once the clocks go back to Eastern Standard Time, it's too dark. Sometimes I'll slip a day in on the weekend, if it's suitably warm.</p><p><br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-54091067389177742552023-10-21T22:58:00.005-04:002023-10-21T23:02:04.089-04:00Progress- 1957 Schwinn Traveler Tall Frame<p> I've been working gradually on a 1957 Schwinn Traveler tall frame. This one is in pretty good shape, and I really like the color. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgplUIPhBqzitoVhy7drzGiWf1U9jB4ZzlbYMprQslS7F55xKW4IxcEba54MW6SYAutSRLEMeIKKBKDRLE1WAwlgb2MATs9ATyTXIxgpQgv_g7Yhw9yS5tV6udRV5clIlc3QkOve6qG7PLIKEh6naSqvWfpIFf_fGthpGSTrdCkZw03LqSzoBQtmDztus/s4000/20231020_204645.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgplUIPhBqzitoVhy7drzGiWf1U9jB4ZzlbYMprQslS7F55xKW4IxcEba54MW6SYAutSRLEMeIKKBKDRLE1WAwlgb2MATs9ATyTXIxgpQgv_g7Yhw9yS5tV6udRV5clIlc3QkOve6qG7PLIKEh6naSqvWfpIFf_fGthpGSTrdCkZw03LqSzoBQtmDztus/w400-h300/20231020_204645.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> <p></p><p>The work included </p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>general cleaning, </li><li>straight and polish stainless fenders<br /></li><li>clean-up and tighten the fender braces, </li><li>check all bearings and races, add grease where needed,<br /></li><li>verify frame and fork straightness, </li><li>straighten and re-build brake calipers,</li><li>clean and polish brake levers,<br /></li><li>clean and polish all chrome, </li><li>clean-up and true wheels, </li><li>new front axle, </li><li>new tires, </li><li>cr-mo seat post,</li><li>new SRAM nickel plated chain, </li><li>remove old electrical tape and tape residue,</li><li>patch-up paint here and there,<br /></li><li>and new Brooks leather saddle.</li></ul><p>My light set will be a Kiley retro LED front and a Soma torpedo retro LED rear. Brake housing will be grey, similar to the original housings. I'll have all new brake cables. I'll custom fit a fixed-length Sturmey Archer shifter cable in grey housing. Pedals will either be new-old-stock waffle block Unions or new MKS 3000S rubber block pedals. I have a couple sets of original Union bow pedals, but I've always preferred square, beefier rubber blocks over the rounded bows.<br /></p><p>This bike came with a 1957 dated Sturmey SW hub. This particule SW actually seems to work with its stock, 18-tooth cog. The issue with the SW is that it stays in gear... until suddenly it does not stay in gear. I've never had much luck with SW hubs staying in gear once the cog is changed up to a 22-tooth. Some of them work OK with the stock cog and in perfect conditions. The minute the floating pawls in the SW want to stick at all, they seem to cam out of gear. It's not a big deal if you're just puttering around the neighborhood, but if you're climbing and putting effort into pedaling, it can mean a trip over the handlebars. We have some pretty challenging hills around here too...<br /></p><p>So I decided in the end to replace the SW hub with a 1957 AW alloy hub. It's from the same year, also 36 holes, and a lot more reliable with the 22-tooth rear cog. I also have all the parts I need to keep it tuned-up.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUB0yEJzncHP5s_cZOJq6MIIB2lvxeZ0aCP-pV1OECXcm-B-0CX8e0ff08xXtvhQ_whlF3qW1xeUhvq9dGaRmLiifKCQqYTPxHgYEGMpgMWPGWOADSYIfbAIqDQfMvHoVKLNqbW7U0ZLhsIc-Z9CqB_k3cNBuAPIDhZlr7ZSeZWNdVKb4qFOFuXmBiPCg/s4000/20231020_204715.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUB0yEJzncHP5s_cZOJq6MIIB2lvxeZ0aCP-pV1OECXcm-B-0CX8e0ff08xXtvhQ_whlF3qW1xeUhvq9dGaRmLiifKCQqYTPxHgYEGMpgMWPGWOADSYIfbAIqDQfMvHoVKLNqbW7U0ZLhsIc-Z9CqB_k3cNBuAPIDhZlr7ZSeZWNdVKb4qFOFuXmBiPCg/w400-h300/20231020_204715.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>It will make a nice match for the 1959 Traveler tall frame I rebuilt a couple months ago.<br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-42191149194052302172023-10-20T14:22:00.006-04:002023-10-20T14:34:24.245-04:00Editorial: Beware Dishonesty in Our Hobby<p>Here are a few thoughts on a rainy, windy October afternoon. </p><p>In the vintage bicycle hobby, I think we should push back against the practice of sellers setting reproduction or knockoff parts alongside originals where no warning is given that some of the parts are reproduction or knock-off.</p><p>Let's look at an example. A seller has 10 sets of chrome fenders that appear to be for a Schwinn Black Phantom. Eight of the sets are originals and two are reproductions. The reproductions are not obviously different at first glance from the originals being offered, but they certainly are not as well-made in general. All sets are laid out on a table or seller's mat. There is no obvious difference in the prices and no description offered. The seller simply says he is selling "fenders" and puts a price on each, all within the same range. This kind of behavior is going to mislead a buyer into paying top-dollar original prices for a lesser, reproduction part. The seller comes out way ahead and the buyer gets burned.<br /></p><p>I think, as hobbyists, we should collectively push back against this kind of behavior. There is no active statement misrepresenting the items, but there certainly is a level of deception present. This is a sin of omission. The seller tries to mislead the buyer by camouflaging the reproduction parts alongside originals. The buyer is ultimately burned when he gets home with his item and finds it's a reproduction that was placed alongside originals, or when the item shows up in the mail and something turns out to be amiss. It leaves a bitter taste, and if the buyer is a newbie, burns him on the hobby.</p><p>I've seen this happen a few times - fenders, handlebars, vintage bicycle advertising signs, etc. It's something that is not necessarily "common" in the hobby, but it happens frequently enough that it is a problem. I think people in our hobby should be better-behaved than that.<br /></p><p>I think the right way to do things is if you list several similar items together, and one of the five things you listed is a reproduction, you should call that out rather than using the originals around it as camouflage to pass off a reproduction or knock-off as original.</p><p>I sometimes see this kind of behavior utilized along with "shill" bidding. Shill bidding is where a seller or a friend of the seller acts as a straw bidder to artificially raise the price of an item. Sometimes the same guys who "camouflage" knock-offs and reproductions, as described above, use shills to raise the prices of items (which may or may not be the camouflaged items). </p><p>I've seen quite a few auctions for parts, or even whole bikes, where the bike is listed on eBay and "sells" on eBay, but then a week later I see the same original seller pushing the bike for sale on another website or at a swap for a much higher price. This isn't a case of a bidder backing out, but rather the seller being unhappy with the eBay price, and with the failure of the shill to draw higher bids from the real bidders. Evidently, the shill bidder won the no reserve eBay auction, and the seller is still stuck with the item or bike. Again, as hobbyists, we should push back against this kind of behavior. "Times are tough" is never a justification for outright dishonesty.</p><p>I'll end my Friday editorial with that.<br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-76184298476957541552023-10-17T22:36:00.006-04:002023-10-17T22:47:11.296-04:001953 Raleigh Lenton - And the "Sporting Roadster" Concept<p> A focus for me this season was to put together a couple premium, sporty bikes with upright bars and a utility bike type configuration. The goal was to take the basic concept behind the famous Raleigh Sports light roadster, and to increase the performance a bit. My thinking was to do something similar in increasing performance, but also keep the core comforts of a utility bike like a Raleigh Sports would have. This seemed like a good idea for dealing with the hilly terrain around here.<br /></p><p>I found three bikes to serve as a basis for this "sporting roadster" type of bike, two of them being Raleighs. One was the 1949 Raleigh Clubman, <a href="https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2023/10/heading-toward-end-of-season.html" target="_blank">which I took for a ride last night</a>. The Clubman was a significant increase in performance over the basic Sports model, given the wide variety of alloy parts, in addition to the Reynolds 531 frame. The alloy seat post, bars/stem, and rims make a huge difference. The frame helps some too, but those alloy components really reduce the weight.</p><p>The other Raleigh in this concept of a sporty roadster was a 1953 Raleigh Lenton. Like the Clubman, the Lenton would have started life as a road bike. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvHSMlwU2EdSPt2My8GMreEcnJvVXo9teWzKb6nObxFCxkE_qcUszEdAaCkqScaqmYruHeXWJSP0Eyv1Kii8cIRP-wnN5Mj-CXl5OXV9xRgfJchT7DxfLoI1CHr_0uBht-VaZZwbCMsHoqKIHvwSGg58lvmc-IfXNDe98BS82MI9kQS1Ur0Sb7XcxHG2k/s4000/20231017_174836.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvHSMlwU2EdSPt2My8GMreEcnJvVXo9teWzKb6nObxFCxkE_qcUszEdAaCkqScaqmYruHeXWJSP0Eyv1Kii8cIRP-wnN5Mj-CXl5OXV9xRgfJchT7DxfLoI1CHr_0uBht-VaZZwbCMsHoqKIHvwSGg58lvmc-IfXNDe98BS82MI9kQS1Ur0Sb7XcxHG2k/w400-h300/20231017_174836.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p> The Lenton was a step down from the Clubman but up from the Sports in terms of components. The Lenton has steel components, though some are lighter than typical Sports components. The Lenton especially has a nice set of lighter, Dunlop steel endrick rims. They're not as light as alloy, but they definitely are lighter than Westrick Sports rims as well. The frame is a bit lighter than a Sports, having Reynolds 531 main tubes, and the frame dimensions are a little tighter than a Sports. It falls right in between the Clubman and the basic Sports along a spectrum of sporty roadsters.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY3Cl0T-Vv12tkC_N3zPQoLi61r7V0qNs0uE0NO-s2CVkJWQFBuYyOdx3yGHPOT2keLYkBUJ0l4KSQdMQ859KmCofK7QXYjQEkfpYEAdqisPmiaTLUTZsvAw1W2Db-6WCTk0PUILpeSdW66EuHrrzPoXV69UGR9hMx6-lBacHWfHBEGDlgbwVt-_UZjT0/s4000/20231017_174842.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY3Cl0T-Vv12tkC_N3zPQoLi61r7V0qNs0uE0NO-s2CVkJWQFBuYyOdx3yGHPOT2keLYkBUJ0l4KSQdMQ859KmCofK7QXYjQEkfpYEAdqisPmiaTLUTZsvAw1W2Db-6WCTk0PUILpeSdW66EuHrrzPoXV69UGR9hMx6-lBacHWfHBEGDlgbwVt-_UZjT0/w400-h300/20231017_174842.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> <p></p><p>Overall, I like what this produced. The lighter weights are helpful when handling hills, though the comfort and usability of a light roadster are still present. All these bikes are equipped with saddle bags, light sets, bells, and sprung Brooks saddles. But the Lenton, and especially the Clubman, feel livelier and faster than a basic Sports. That's not to say the Sports is a bad bike - I still have several variations of the Sports in my collection. But these "sporting roadsters" hit a sweet spot that blends comfort, utility, and performance when you want something with a little more life than the usual.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-24050409030389306612023-10-16T22:13:00.004-04:002023-10-16T23:38:52.664-04:00Heading Toward the End of the Season<p>Over the years, I've developed a late-season routine of sorts for dealing with old bikes. </p><p>Priority, as usual goes to riding bikes as frequently as weather and my time allow. But late in the season, that priority placed on riding is even more emphasized than other times of year. Given the now-limited number of days to ride, I try to get out as much as I can.</p><p>Below is a shot of my 1949 Raleigh Clubman, which is in a very comfortable, touring configuration. Those Nicelite/Reflectalite LED bulbs are great.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVilxF8FqwpiEyMKrF6n-YpuogjFMv7wrXRLOq54Mv9NH9uDfLGpMC3ONOzrMrh6TQJes0lyAIK7Zi6jwm42Q_nBHkfYUiNIh-vNuDCVprCxv2CEdoRrFy3jR8PiFd3jJGkg1C7RPttyUaNecRkTUTo0DNYF53lqdpDXyfrBXWmWHPK93TM1_dzbd2aE/s4000/20231016_175225.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVilxF8FqwpiEyMKrF6n-YpuogjFMv7wrXRLOq54Mv9NH9uDfLGpMC3ONOzrMrh6TQJes0lyAIK7Zi6jwm42Q_nBHkfYUiNIh-vNuDCVprCxv2CEdoRrFy3jR8PiFd3jJGkg1C7RPttyUaNecRkTUTo0DNYF53lqdpDXyfrBXWmWHPK93TM1_dzbd2aE/w400-h300/20231016_175225.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> <p></p><p>Second to riding come the minor projects and maintenance that keep a bike on the road. These are your one-evening type projects, such as fixing burned out light bulbs, repairing flat tires, and truing wheels. This keeps bikes on the road through the end of the season and keeps them safe to ride. </p><p>The lowest priority are large projects such as rebuilds. My assumption here is that even if I prioritized these projects, the bikes in question probably would not be on the road in time to make the end of riding season here. These projects can wait until winter in that case, and there's no real loss to me. The other nice thing about keeping these projects near the bottom of the ladder is that it takes all the pressure off to rebuild bikes. Trying to rush through a project is a recipe for stress and mistakes. </p><p>Late season is also a good time to start thinking about what you might need by way of parts over the winter. Vintage parts that come in need to be cleaned and prepared for use. New parts usually are OK, but some parts, like MKS pedals, benefit from some additional grease and fine-tuning. Below is a set of MKS 3000-S 1/2 inch pedals straight from Japan for use on a vintage Schwinn 3-speed bike. The box is from a general "Japan goods" type retailer, who apparently also sells items related to Japanese cartoons. I'm not sure he has any idea how nice those MKS 3000S 1/2 pedals are on an old Schwinn... but it's great to have good pedals either way.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1uJr0WS8eEUN0HSn5crSp5RsnEbG13K3d5E-R8BXa7Bk9nvEHEz-tFETEw3vSNUWAhpYQJhtEcvNNGcUXPj-gQG70Yf6Rf9uBzQwp16uPahz9FFq3di4e2Icu14KOjXuXlMrWtypXk8CESwh06hrE-KmzwmmYD1PfAkhXWLJjX-sB2mjKdSoA4jR37mI/s4000/20231014_170629.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1uJr0WS8eEUN0HSn5crSp5RsnEbG13K3d5E-R8BXa7Bk9nvEHEz-tFETEw3vSNUWAhpYQJhtEcvNNGcUXPj-gQG70Yf6Rf9uBzQwp16uPahz9FFq3di4e2Icu14KOjXuXlMrWtypXk8CESwh06hrE-KmzwmmYD1PfAkhXWLJjX-sB2mjKdSoA4jR37mI/w400-h300/20231014_170629.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-10034618028255624532023-10-10T21:12:00.001-04:002023-10-10T21:12:07.656-04:00Late Season Rides<p> We're down to the last few weeks of riding season here. It's starting to turn cooler and the days are getting much shorter. It's dark by about 6:45 p.m., so that means leaving for my rides a little earlier each day. Once the clocks change of back to eastern standard time, it will be dark very early indeed. I might as well make the most of it while it lasts...</p><p>I've been spending more time on the 1940 Raleigh Model 35, a simple and enjoyable light roadster with not much in the way of "extras" on it. The only real "extra" was the fact that it came with a three speed hub rather than a single speed. Other than that, it came as a very basic bike: no chain guard, no rack, no lights. I added some retro LED lights and a nice saddle bag. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUape-ioBzyC0jDcoGnrVQ3A6v70xzEcRvAKEhf5JERO9_2akgwOwBGn5HefHyAmq1EsJMCUOI7dWareiPMzFC7SlskFW_hrZkRI03hSHGIB-anJ1Wej9yf7kRJLV0uPxJuJVuD9B1AypTLQDPbSawlQMQNfdw7NA9TQasvBqWBa38wObdGt4oEsgHX5s/s4000/20231004_175405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUape-ioBzyC0jDcoGnrVQ3A6v70xzEcRvAKEhf5JERO9_2akgwOwBGn5HefHyAmq1EsJMCUOI7dWareiPMzFC7SlskFW_hrZkRI03hSHGIB-anJ1Wej9yf7kRJLV0uPxJuJVuD9B1AypTLQDPbSawlQMQNfdw7NA9TQasvBqWBa38wObdGt4oEsgHX5s/w400-h300/20231004_175405.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>I recently also made some changes to the 1959 Schwinn Traveler three speed. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Jvw_H9OI3tg-T7wsTSEXLAYVmA9MnVTRQ9C5PNWiT6wH53FslYazJPOzvxvfxlU_LG-dHTSyZhhmT7DfSFi_P4X0PkVlENkpwc_TkRB32E7ji6CXBBgua3JTeQ_SDWcUeiFEkV_WaFK902JGTX01_s96OiAJDN_BFc726dsGcrrSj1GNZmd3oXfBbIc/s4000/20231010_173222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Jvw_H9OI3tg-T7wsTSEXLAYVmA9MnVTRQ9C5PNWiT6wH53FslYazJPOzvxvfxlU_LG-dHTSyZhhmT7DfSFi_P4X0PkVlENkpwc_TkRB32E7ji6CXBBgua3JTeQ_SDWcUeiFEkV_WaFK902JGTX01_s96OiAJDN_BFc726dsGcrrSj1GNZmd3oXfBbIc/w400-h300/20231010_173222.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> <p></p><p>I reverted the grips from the white reproductions to a set of vintage Schwinn teardrop grips, and added heavy duty saddle clamp with a safety notch on it. I have found the modern, black reproduction Schwinn grips to be supple and comfortable. The white reproductions I used on the bike previously turned out to be harder and less comfortable than expected. I ended up converting to a set of aged Schwinn grips from the 1950s, which suit the bike nicely.</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrPe8iIKYtKl_X_loGu3QLs8enfie0oVvTy64vzrruB7_nTQOs7zrXoWaFhQKuJMnPjrZcXF2mlLfhV7Ski68c-mDOR-foLUD0OAbRIVLruAlq6VIi0VZXJuME9AafSbVByyQSnheEZnJGcpJulcUz44l7Mq6B_mWWaPkEGkZS0JTlX2u7MdoRCLRLRUg/s4000/20231010_173229.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrPe8iIKYtKl_X_loGu3QLs8enfie0oVvTy64vzrruB7_nTQOs7zrXoWaFhQKuJMnPjrZcXF2mlLfhV7Ski68c-mDOR-foLUD0OAbRIVLruAlq6VIi0VZXJuME9AafSbVByyQSnheEZnJGcpJulcUz44l7Mq6B_mWWaPkEGkZS0JTlX2u7MdoRCLRLRUg/s320/20231010_173229.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>The saddle clamp is a basic, Sunlite brand clamp that is made in Taiwan. However, I have come to like these clamps because they have a couple features I look for: a safety notch on the inner clamp, and a full square carriage bolt rather than a thin (cheap) bolt with just a couple flats on it. The safety notch is nice when you use a 7/8 top seat post for a 13/16 Schwinn frame. The heavy duty bolt is nice because it bites better and is stronger than the really cheap, thin bolts you see that have just the two flats mashed into them. A full, square saddle carriage bolt is the way to go, I think. You see the beefy, full square carriage bolts on the older English clamps, though I've seen even some of the newer England clamps with the cheapo thin/flat bolts.</p><p><br /></p><p>Get out there and enjoy it while you can...<br /></p><p><br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3841108529205226165.post-41580224852903519262023-09-23T21:24:00.002-04:002023-09-23T21:33:14.050-04:00Thoughts on Basic Maintenance and "Refresher Rides"<p>Old bikes benefit from being occasionally ridden. Left to sit, their tires go flat, grease can dry up, and oil can migrate to one area. That's not to mention the dust and other junk that accumulates when the bike sits. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi04f54t2OLDX05LPWtOgjkPBaAl8gi_4Eliif9kuROxt_IAUyFqVxjhZ0JZzuOMZraiofpcXZphSbS8065G8QWHgaRRWfsEQ6vMrlcDvymTL7Cqoly4b-dmmA3eiqCHXWwi5j2ayjTkJdPOpxiJjNIXimzIKv31Sg5afgNnGguNDzoePot3zXzrSvTqFI/s4000/20230921_164531.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi04f54t2OLDX05LPWtOgjkPBaAl8gi_4Eliif9kuROxt_IAUyFqVxjhZ0JZzuOMZraiofpcXZphSbS8065G8QWHgaRRWfsEQ6vMrlcDvymTL7Cqoly4b-dmmA3eiqCHXWwi5j2ayjTkJdPOpxiJjNIXimzIKv31Sg5afgNnGguNDzoePot3zXzrSvTqFI/w400-h300/20230921_164531.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p> Here's an example. I took my 1958 Raleigh Sports out for a nice ride a couple of days ago. It rides as nicely as ever, and the four-speed FW hub gives a nice, low gear ratio for climbing hills. I haven't ridden this bicycle since probably May or June. Much of my summer has been devoted to repairing bikes and then riding the newly repaired bikes on the road. This allows me to iron out any final adjustments. The downside is that long-time favorites like this 1958 Sports tend to sit while I'm getting work done on more recent bikes.<br /></p><p> My clean-up routine:</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li> Wipe down the bike with a clean rag. A little water on the rag helps clean the bike but is still pretty gentle on the paint and graphics. <br /></li><li>Airing up the tires, inspect for cracking or damage.<br /></li><li>Add a few drops of oil to each hub (don't overdo it). </li><li>Add a drop of oil to each brake caliper.</li><li>Make sure that any battery powered lights have good batteries. </li><li>Make sure the bulbs work too... <br /></li><li>Once per season, add a little Proofhide or similar to leather saddles.</li><li>Check that any frame pump has a good seal and pushes air. </li><li>Once per season, check and clean/lubricate the chain.</li></ul><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5y80TYZsz8VQk6hhPEkJg77Ylay7SInFStRzWSlnlosbjA6UuzOKrxmcwCwf2SDXce3aox1qY0gwEJOwnIG5QNVYl1-Ao7y4eJwlI9jsxuOqoLLI56CYxueddQynQSlISIhiHCHJGDvIiqcTxLnRlyQNrdWP-8WFqKgH5HTUov78dIeOW5zSRJVbvD2k/s4000/20230921_164545.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5y80TYZsz8VQk6hhPEkJg77Ylay7SInFStRzWSlnlosbjA6UuzOKrxmcwCwf2SDXce3aox1qY0gwEJOwnIG5QNVYl1-Ao7y4eJwlI9jsxuOqoLLI56CYxueddQynQSlISIhiHCHJGDvIiqcTxLnRlyQNrdWP-8WFqKgH5HTUov78dIeOW5zSRJVbvD2k/w400-h300/20230921_164545.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Thankfully these bikes don't need a lot of involved maintenance - just the basics will do usually. Once you have a routine like this down, it only takes a few minutes. </p><p>Rather than stashing a bike away for months and months, it's good to take a refresher ride on the bike every so often, even if it's not an everyday rider. <br /></p><p><br /></p>The Bike Shedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088480622389782722noreply@blogger.com2