Sunday, November 19, 2017

1940s Schwinn Continental Wheels and 1941 Schwinn New World

I've written a number of times about a 1941 Schwinn New World 3-speed that I rebuilt last fall. When I did the re-build, the wheels I built were of a basic, 1950s-type pattern: chrome Schwinn S6 rims; 1950s Sturmey Archer AW hub; and a chrome steel Schwinn front hub.

I recently acquired a more premium set of wheels - a set of wheels from a 1947 Schwinn Continental 3-speed. The Continental had some upgrades over the standard wheelset: particularly stainless steel S6 rims and aluminum front hubs with oiler ports. Combined with double-butted spokes, the Continental 3-speed had a great set of wheels for that time period, or really any period of 3-speed bikes.


I bought these wheels specifically to upgrade the 1941 New World. As a rule of thumb, saving weight on a wheelset is one of the best places you can save weight on a bike. Weight off the wheels contributes substantially to the "feel" of the bike, as to quality wheel components. With that in mind, I tuned-up the Sturmey Archer AW hub; cleaned the wheelset; and trued them. I combined the wheels with the white wall Kenda tires (ISO 597), and put them on the New World.

The result is a tuned-up New World: a posh, sporty wheelset on a classic Schwinn fillet brazed bike. I rode the bike today, and despite adverse conditions and severe wind, it performed nicely and was quite a joy to ride.




 The rear hub is a standard steel AW with a 10-47 (October 1947) date code. It's a little newer than the 1941 New World, but of the same general era of Schwinn 3-speeds. The hub required a tune-up: one replacement planet gear; one new pawl spring; and a new ball ring.








The days are getting shorter and colder, but today was still ride-able. The New World is a handsome, simple bicycle. If one characteristic about this one stands out, it's the well-balanced, sporty feel to the bike. It's surprisingly light and responsive for this era of bicycle construction, and everything just feels "right" on this bike. It's not my lightest, fastest, or more robust bike, but it is one of my most comfortable and pleasant to ride.




Saturday, November 18, 2017

1963 Raleigh DL-1 Export Model - on the Road

We had a breezy, warm day here today. It was mostly dry, but there were a few showers in the area during the mid-afternoon. It was still good enough out to take this Raleigh DL-1 Export Model for a ride around the area.


I've talked before about the various types of "roadster" bicycles - "light roadsters"; "hybrid roadsters"; and "full roadsters". This DL-1 is certainly a "full roadster" with slack frame angles, 28 inch wheels, and rod brakes. With a full roadster, you really notice the slack handling and cushy ride. This DL-1 is no exception - it's definitely different than a Raleigh Sports.

I really like this very dark green color on the bike. It looks black in low light, but outdoors, it's definitely a very dark green. The chain guard is aftermarket - switched years ago, and is a slightly lighter green. I love these deep-well chainguards. They give enough protection from the moving drive train, but do not have the inconveniences associated with a full chain case.


I even re-used the original wiring in this electrical system. It's no match for a modern, LED light, but it works OK for when you want cars to see you more easily (though it does not really help the bike's rider see much). The Indian-made replacement spindle from Yellow Jersey bicycles in Wisconsin is running nicely - it's a smooth-running drive train and a pleasant gear ratio (44 teeth in the front; 21 in the back).


Definitely autumn now:


Sunday, November 12, 2017

Closing Out the Weekend - Raleigh Export DL-1


Not much to report from the remainder of the weekend - mostly just yard work. I was able to take the 1963 DL-1 out for about an hour before it got dark this evening.


It's a little warmer than previously, but still pretty chilly for this time of year.




Saturday, November 11, 2017

A Cold Veteran's Day

Barely 40 degrees this afternoon - very cold for this time of year. That's normally winter weather in this part of the country. Happy Veterans/Armistice/Rememberance Day.

I took the Raleigh export model DL-1 for a ride - pretty chilled by the time I got back.


Friday, November 10, 2017

A Replacement Bottom Bracket Spindle for a Raleigh DL-1

One of the thorns in this Raleigh DL-1 export model project has been the fact that the original bottom bracket spindle did not have the cotter pin flats milled 180 degrees opposite. The result is that the crank arms don't line up correctly, and that the problem is native to the original #08GC spindle itself.


 As you can see above - the cranks are visibly off, which means the precision of this spindle must be pretty far off. Many of these old spindles are not 100% perfectly made, but if they're reasonably close, the cranks line up well enough and the bike rides fine. This one is way off. Visual inspection of the spindle also visibly shows the flats are not opposite each other.

So what to do? This very good video explains how the DL-1 bike had a different bottom bracket spindle - a larger spindle - than the common Raleigh Sports bike. The DL-1 used the larger #08GC whereas the Sports used the #16GC.



It turns out though that Yellow Jersey bike shop in Wisconsin sells an Indian-made copy of the DL-1 spindle. Andrew at Yellow Jersey was helpful in answering my emails and I ended up buying a full bottom bracket kit.

Below is the kit as it arrived. This particular kit was made in 2011. The Indian firm that made it stamped the box with the manufacture date.  The spindle is forged steel.


 The races are quite close to the #08GC in size and width. It should be noted that the overall spindle is a fair bit longer than the #08GC. The result is that it noticeably moved the cranks outward from the frame/bottom bracket shell. My Raleigh has an aftermarket "horseshoe" or "half case" type chainguard, not a full chaincase. I was able to get everything to fit on the drive side, and to re-use an original Raleigh cotter pin without difficulty.

The spindle and the non-drive crank are a bit tougher. The non-drive crank's holes also seem to have been off a bit when they were bored out. The result is that a stock Raleigh cotter pin sinks very deeply into the hole - I managed to get a pin tight and set just as it maxed out in how deeply it could go. It's close to the end, but it does work. The cranks ended up 180 degrees apart, as they should be.

I plan to upgrade to a slightly larger cotter pin from Bike Smith design. I'll file it to fit, and I will probably have to leave a little more material on the pin than a stock Raleigh pin would have. But hopefully this problem is licked now.

I think the bottom line on the Indian spindle is this: it's close to the original, but it has some differences: the spindle overall is longer and sets the cranks apart wider than the 8GC; and the cotter flats on the Indian-model seem just a little bit more cut-back. However, the races are close enough to the 8GC to work. I have retained the stock Raleigh cups, but I am using new bearing balls with this bike. After assembly, the bottom bracket turns smoothly.

My advice: if you can make the original spindle on your DL-1 work, do it. The original is going to have fewer compatibility issues regarding where your cranks end up regarding chaincase, chainguard, etc. If your spindle is just defective/bent/trashed: I'd give this Indian spindle a try. It's not expensive, and it does at least give you a chance to build-up a working bottom bracket. You may have to play with cotter pins and chaincase/chainguard positions, but at least you'll have a turning and functioning bottom bracket.

That said, I sure wouldn't want to be trying to get this spindle working with an original Raleigh chaincase, though I do think with some patience and fooling, it might work with that as well.