1940 Schwinn New World - Repairing Imperfections, Part 2

 I wrote previously about "repairing imperfections, old and new", where I discussed fixing different problems on a 1940 Schwinn New World bike, some of which were always there and some that resulted from years of hard use. 

A recurring problem on pre-World War 2 Schwinn New World bikes is the breakage of the fragile wire fender braces they used. The braces tend to crack around the rivet hole because not enough material is present there. 

Fixing old parts like this is a challenge. There are no direct replacement parts made today, so you have to get creative.  

Let's use the fragile Schwinn wire braces as an example.  There is no "kit" to repair these kinds of very old parts. I had a handful of them to repair. Some were cracked, and some were totally broken. In my book, a viable solution should fix both a broke and a cracked brace. Be creative and consider your options. I got some help from a couple of family members who know how to weld. I also did some soldering and brazing. 

• Arc/Stick Welding: an old school method, but not delicate enough for this job.

• Flux core: Small flux core welding machines are popular do-it-yourself options today. Initially the flux core machine burned through the spine of the brace. After adding donor material from the head of a nail and turning the machine way down, a successful weld was made. The weld then had to be bored out for a new screw/rivet hole. The boring out process is a challenge because the welded area is kind of hard. A carbine Dremel head worked best to bore a new hole.

  

  Flux core with donor material - notice the wider center.

  
  

• Brazing: A traditional solution. Works adequately on the braces, though does not add as much strength as welding with donor material. But if you have a decent propane or Mapp torch, brazing is an option to fix a broken wire brace. Boring out the hole is easier because brazing is softer than weld material. This will fix the braces adequately for their purpose. It's very much possible to re-break them if you're rough. The brazing rod material flows and sticks nicely on the steel (make sure the material is clean and you use flux). 

  

  A broken brace, brazed back together

  
  

• Oxy/Acetylene Welding: An old school form of welding. Similar to the brazing process but harder material and higher temperatures. Doable. My understanding is that this is kind of a by-gone process and most people who weld opt for MIG, TIG, or one of the portable flux core machines. (But gas welding is by no means obsolete - it was a go-to method for much of the 20th century). 

• TIG Welding: A modern form of welding preferred for delicate repairs. This would be a good solution as well. The material needs to be clean. I have a lot of respect for people who can TIG weld and get the "stack of dimes" look. If you know how to TIG weld, you probably don't need my advice.

• Silver Soldering: Too weak to be effective, even when washers were used to help provide rigidity. I tried this three times: once with just solder (don't bother), once with a single washer as a backer (weak), once with two washers as backers (a bit better but still too weak). Even basic testing allowed me to pull apart the repair. Avoid this for these kinds of braces.

  

  Silver solder with backers - an interesting idea that didn't work 

    

Suggestions: TIG Welding, brazing, or gas welding all would be options. Flux core is an option if you are  careful and have donor material (and you don't mind working to bore out a new hole). Don't bother trying to use an arc/stick or silver solder.

 

What about that cracked front fender? I previously wrote about how the bike was delivered upside down, with the bottom (now the top) opened. The front fender was cracked in the process of being slammed around in shipping.

When the arrow on the box is merely a suggestion...

 

The fender sheet metal is very thin, even by today's standards. So as with the limited material on the braces, processes like arc/stick are probably a no-go. It probably would just burn through the material. The flux core welder also was at the edge of its abilities with the braces. Here the metal is even thinner. I suppose with donor material it could be fixed, but I think that metal is too thin for the flux core. 

After some thought, and the experience with the braces, I decided to braze the cracks. The fender doesn't carry much weight, though something more than silver solder or epoxy is needed here. So out came the torch and I brazed a couple of lines along the cracks. One side got a little more braze than was strictly needed, but with smoothing it will look fine and stop any more cracking.

 The next jobs are to patch up the paint in the repair area and get things re-assembled.

False Spring or Real Spring? Around Here, One Can Never Tell

 We're finally starting to get a smattering of warm days, at occasionally. As recently as March 28 (4 days ago), the temperature was only in the 30's F (3 deg C). That weekend was disappointingly cold and prevented any work in the barn shop. But by Monday March 30, the temperature was in the 60s F (18 deg C), then up to 75 F (24 deg C). It is fairly common that we get such temperature swings in late March and early April here. I just wish the warm weather would stay for a weekend when I have a little more free time...

That begs the question whether the warm weather is really starting, or it is "false spring" - a few warm days followed by a return to colder weather. 

Given the warm weather, I took the 1964 Schwinn Traveler out for a ride. It is a tentative start to the riding season, but at least it's a start. It remains to be seen whether frequent riding now resumes or if we drop back down to colder, rainy weather. But for now, it's nice to be back out on the road.

 

On Vintage Bike Parts, Supplies, Etc.

 

Vintage Spares: spare Webb calipers, SA cog spacers, SA lamp brackets

In the vintage bicycle repair hobby, the thinking on vintage parts and supplies can be divided into a spectrum with two very broad camps at the ends: those who buy parts and supplies on an "as-needed" basis, and those who "stock up". In between the two ends are those who stock up on certain parts or supplies, but not others.

At the "as-needed" end of the spectrum the person tends to keep a minimal stock of spares and then hunt for parts when something breaks down or a new project comes in and needs parts or supplies. [The dysfunctional version of this person keeps almost nothing as spares, then hounds other hobbyists when something breaks down and a part is needed.]  

At the "stock up" end, the person buys parts and supplies ahead of time and then stores them. When a project comes in or a bike needs something, the person breaks the part out of storage. [The dysfunctional version of this hoards large numbers of parts and never uses them, even if they're needed.]

Bulk pack of unused, vintage Sturmey Archer spoke nipples

 

My advice, after 30+ years of fixing old bikes, is to practice "smart stocking". Smart stocking involves keeping a targeted stock of parts or supplies, aimed at careful buying and stocking the "often needed" stuff. Here are my basic rules:

•  Think about the part or supply and ask yourself "is this one of those parts or supplies that always seems to be missing, broken, or in need of replacement on this kind of bike?". There are certain parts and supplies that wear out or are prone to breakage. Target those kinds of things for stocking up a bit.

• Learn what a "good" or at least "fair" price is for the part or supply. Don't overpay. Learn how common the part is.

• Have an idea of how many spares and supplies you have. For example, having a few spare brake levers around can be good if you're rebuilding projects. Having 10 spare sets in a box somewhere is probably overkill...

When you hit the trifecta above, that's when stocking up is a good idea: (1) it's a part/supply often needed for the kinds of bikes you repair, (2) you see it at a good price and it's not easy to find, and (3) you're not already stocked up on it.  

I use this thinking because storage space is a limited resource. I keep my spare parts in labeled bags, tins, and boxes that are stored in water-tight plastic tubs. Items prone to rust or corrosion are given a shot of WD40 in their bag and then sealed up. I put labels on the bags, tins, and boxes so I know what the part is inside. 

A spare 1940s era Raleigh tail lamp

 

The bottom line is that you don't need to be a hoarder and you don't need to be "that person" who is always hounding others for parts. You can stock up in a smart way that gives you the parts and supplies you need while also making an efficient use of storage space. 

A vintage Sturmey Archer spare hub - 1951