August Rides, and Sturmey Archer Shifter Talk

Here we have a few photos from this week. I rode the 1950 Schwinn Superior and the 1947 Schwinn Continental. 

 

The Continental had to be pulled from the basement for its first ride of the season. Refreshing these bikes is not a particularly onerous task if they have been stored reasonably well. These bikes are pretty low maintenance: dust, oil in a few places, basic safety check, air-up the tires, and go. If you have battery lights, check the batteries too...

The early post-war Continental is a definite step up over the Superior in terms of quality (the opposite of the later, derailleur era bikes). The frame is lighter, but the better rims on the Continental make a big difference (stainless vs chromed steel). 

 

The Superior is a good bike, but in terms of equipment, is closer to the New World than the Continental. It's nice to have at least one example of each model...

 

 I am occasionally asked whether the top-tube "quadrant" shifter on the older bikes is difficult to use, versus the more-familiar handlebar shifter. The top tube shifter is not especially difficult to use if it is in good working order. The flat spring will tend to "find" the peg holes and set the bike into gear. Most of the problems with top tube shifters that people report are the result of worn shifter pegs, worn shifter springs, or improperly adjusted cables. The handlebar shifter is a bit easier and faster to use because your hand stays on or near the handle bars. But a properly set up top tube shifter works quite well and just takes a couple short rides to get used to.

The other question I am sometimes asked is about the "odd" position of pre-1960 handlebar shifters, which is to say "upside down". Most riders today are familiar with twist grip shifters, brifters, or prominent handlebar shifters that stick up. 

Why would anyone want a shifter set downward like you see in the photo above? As strange as it sounds, this position is actually "faster" and more convenient to use than the more-familiar shifters that stand up above the handlebar. With this old-style, low position, you can shifter with a flick of your finger and never have to move your hand from the grip. The brake lever stays in close reach as you shift, in case something runs into the road in front of you. I will admit the first bike I had with this style of shifter, many years ago, felt odd to me. But once you are used to this low position shifter, it will become second nature to you. 

Some people like the higher, standing shifter because they can see what gear they are in at a glance. But the fact is that once you become used to the bike and your riding cadence, you will know what gear you are in just based on the feel and speed of the bike. There's also the steady "click" sound the AW hub makes in Normal (2) and High (3) gears. 

Hard to believe it is already August. Keep the rides coming... 

 

 

Cleaning and Stocking Parts

 I wrote previously about "smart stocking", which is the practice of buying and stocking the spares you are most likely to need. There's certainly a line between hoarding unnecessary items and targeting your spare parts stock to those items that always seem missing or damaged on your new project...

 

Here is another round of parts: good fenders and brakes for a 1940s-50s Raleigh, and a mixture of Schwinn bottom bracket parts. I'll find that often you need that nice, spare fender to substitute a missing piece, or to replace a rusted, worn, or abused bottom bracket or brake part on a project bike. I'm trying to take in fewer projects these days, but it's nice to have the parts when I need them.

My process for cleaning and storing the parts is simple. First, I inspect the parts and decide if they need cleaning. Small, plated parts are cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner mixture of Simple Green and Warm water. Sometimes a little purple degreaser is added if the parts are particularly dirty. Vintage painted parts are gently cleaned with an old tooth brush and some Dawn Powerwash or some Simple Green/water mixture. 

Rust is then addressed if it is a problem. Chrome plated parts may be put in Evaporust if rusty enough. Otherwise, they are cleaned with a brass wire brush and WD40. Painted parts are gently cleaned with 0000 steel wool and WD40. 

Storing the parts is also simple. Small and medium parts are placed in ziplock bags with a little WD40 to deter moisture and rust while in storage. The bags are labeled and put in metal tins or plastic tubs with similar parts. Large parts are labeled with a little masking tape and put in a large, plastic storage tub with similar parts. They may receive a light rub-down with WD40 to deter rust while in storage. 

Keep everything you store dry and out of the dampness if you store in your basement or garage. I especially like plastic or wooden storage pallets to keep the tubs of parts up and out of the water. Each large storage tub has a masking tape label on the side with a list of the parts in the tub. I prefer clear plastic tubs over opaque ones so I can see what's inside. 

My favorite sources for parts:

• The CABE/BikeForums websites
• Ebay
• Facebook Marketplace
• Talking to other collectors 

I've had less luck with Craigslist for parts. I haven't used some of the other sites, such as "OfferUp". 

Don't underestimate the power of conversation. Sometimes just talking to another collector, you'll learn they're looking to sell a bike or parts that you want or need. Don't be afraid to make a reasonable offer or keep talking to see if there's potentially a chance to buy or sell something at hand. Sometimes the best stuff changes hands starting by word-of-mouth. 

 

Humid Rides...

 

Not much in the way of heavy-duty heat here lately, but plenty of humidity. I guess it's that time of year... I'll put up a few photos of the 1948 Raleigh Sports Tourist and the 1950 Schwinn Superior. They both ride nicely. The Sports Tourist is a little heavier with its chain case and dynohub system, but no complaints about either bike. 

I've probably written this before, but chain cases are great looking and great from a collector standpoint, not so much from a mechanic's standpoint. They're a pain to get "just right" so nothing rattles or rubs. This one is a good one: no real dents and very straight. It has all the covers, sliders, etc. I still prefer a hockey stick style chain guard for riding and repair purposes. But the full chain case sure does look the part...

 

 The Superior has a more American flavor to it: lots of chrome, heavy gooseneck stem, louder paint scheme and decals... 

The Superior has a 22-ish inch frame, versus the 23-inch of the Raleigh. I am 5ft 8in or so tall, with long legs for my height. I can ride either frame comfortably, though perhaps the 23 is a little better fit. 

One trick with the smaller frame is to use a better seat post and a little longer stem to get the bars and saddle into place. BMX seat posts are a good source of longer, stronger posts for these welded Schwinn frames. This is a Cr-Mo post that is quite long. The taller "AS" razor stem also helps get those bars into place and more adjustment range. I hate a bike with too much or too little reach to the handlebars. For whatever reason it's among the first things I notice riding a bike. I hate feeling like I'm straining to reach the bars especially... So a taller stem and a little more range of adjustment is in order on these 22-inch frames. 

You can only do so much though with the stem and seat post. If you're 6ft 3in tall, a 22-inch frame on 26-inch wheels will not cut it. Then you would need the taller frame. But if you're at the edge of the frame size in terms of fit, the stem or seat post can make the difference in getting comfortable.

I notice the days are starting to get a bit shorter again... too bad. Keep on riding.