On Vintage Bike Parts, Supplies, Etc.

 

Vintage Spares: spare Webb calipers, SA cog spacers, SA lamp brackets

In the vintage bicycle repair hobby, the thinking on vintage parts and supplies can be divided into a spectrum with two very broad camps at the ends: those who buy parts and supplies on an "as-needed" basis, and those who "stock up". In between the two ends are those who stock up on certain parts or supplies, but not others.

At the "as-needed" end of the spectrum the person tends to keep a minimal stock of spares and then hunt for parts when something breaks down or a new project comes in and needs parts or supplies. [The dysfunctional version of this person keeps almost nothing as spares, then hounds other hobbyists when something breaks down and a part is needed.]  

At the "stock up" end, the person buys parts and supplies ahead of time and then stores them. When a project comes in or a bike needs something, the person breaks the part out of storage. [The dysfunctional version of this hoards large numbers of parts and never uses them, even if they're needed.]

Bulk pack of unused, vintage Sturmey Archer spoke nipples

 

My advice, after 30+ years of fixing old bikes, is to practice "smart stocking". Smart stocking involves keeping a targeted stock of parts or supplies, aimed at careful buying and stocking the "often needed" stuff. Here are my basic rules:

•  Think about the part or supply and ask yourself "is this one of those parts or supplies that always seems to be missing, broken, or in need of replacement on this kind of bike?". There are certain parts and supplies that wear out or are prone to breakage. Target those kinds of things for stocking up a bit.

• Learn what a "good" or at least "fair" price is for the part or supply. Don't overpay. Learn how common the part is.

• Have an idea of how many spares and supplies you have. For example, having a few spare brake levers around can be good if you're rebuilding projects. Having 10 spare sets in a box somewhere is probably overkill...

When you hit the trifecta above, that's when stocking up is a good idea: (1) it's a part/supply often needed for the kinds of bikes you repair, (2) you see it at a good price and it's not easy to find, and (3) you're not already stocked up on it.  

I use this thinking because storage space is a limited resource. I keep my spare parts in labeled bags, tins, and boxes that are stored in water-tight plastic tubs. Items prone to rust or corrosion are given a shot of WD40 in their bag and then sealed up. I put labels on the bags, tins, and boxes so I know what the part is inside. 

A spare 1940s era Raleigh tail lamp

 

The bottom line is that you don't need to be a hoarder and you don't need to be "that person" who is always hounding others for parts. You can stock up in a smart way that gives you the parts and supplies you need while also making an efficient use of storage space. 

A vintage Sturmey Archer spare hub - 1951

 

 

1926 Raleigh Catalogue - Miniature Consumer Catalogue

 

Arriving earlier this week is this very interesting, very old Raleigh mini catalogue from around 1926. This catalogue is about 100 years old and gives a glimpse into the old-style, traditional bicycles of that period. 

The 1920s were a conservative period for Raleigh and Sturmey Archer. The companies built tried-and-true designs, such as the Model K hub and the various rod brake roadsters. These bicycles pre-date the more "modern" sporting and light roadster bikes we think of today. Raleigh and Sturmey Archer were more innovative in the 1930s, with the arrival of more cable brake models such as the "Sports" series, and newer hubs such as the AW and AB series. 

 

We also must not forget the terrible toll taken by the First World War, known in those days as "The Great War". The horrors of that war were still fresh in British memory in 1926. It is estimated that between 880,000 and 890,000 British servicemen were killed, with over 1.6 million wounded in a little over four years of fighting. This is not to mention the additional killed and wounded from the wider British empire and dominions.

After such trauma, the 1920s were both a conservative time for Raleigh and Sturmey Archer, and a more optimistic one generally in Britain, as it emerged from the horrors of war. Unfortunately, this optimism was wiped out by the great depression and the rise of Nazi Germany in the 1930s.

 

Raleigh's return to the United States was also still several years away. I've written previously about early "modern" lightweight bikes and an early Raleigh USA sales brochure dating to about 1934. Raleigh was basically conservative (or "bearish" in stock market speak) on the US market. They had a tough go of things in the 1890s and did not want to re-visit their failure in the US market. Eventually Raleigh enthusiast Hamilton Osgood, of Boston, Massachusetts, would push Raleigh to return to the US market in the 1930s.

Overall, this 1926 catalogue gives us a glimpse of Raleigh in the post-WW1 era - a fundamentally conservative time for Raleigh, before the innovations and upheavals of the 1930s. 

A pdf of this 1926 catalogue can be downloaded from the Classic and Antique Bicycle Exchange, HERE. 

A pdf of the 1934 Raleigh sales brochure can also be found at the CABE, see HERE. 

 

Another Option in 26 x 1 3/8 (650A / 590mm) Rims - Van Schothorst

 I'm always hunting for good quality wheel parts for old three speed bikes. Good wheels breathe life into an old bike, whether vintage, upgraded, or modified. I prefer to use vintage parts that are generally consistent with the presentation of a vintage bike. I like an old-style rim that fits with the period in which the bike was made, even if the rim itself is not quite that old.

I wrote previously about Alesa aluminum rims in the 26 x 1 3/8 (590mm "650A") size. Those aluminum rims are a vintage item, Made in Belgium. They have roughly an Endrick rim width, but with a center ridge similar to a Westrick/Raleigh pattern rim. Interestingly, Weinmann made a very similar rim in the USA for a number of years. I have a set of those as well, and they are similar to the Alesa but a little more heavy-duty. Both are 36 hole rims and would look reasonably at home on a vintage three speed bike. 

This week, I received another vintage 26 x 1 3/8 set of rims: Van Schothorst steel rims. These rims are also 36 hole types. These VS rims are fairly heavy-duty and pretty well finished. There aren't any rough spots or seams on the outside that would catch your brake pads. Interestingly, they are the opposite of the Alesa/Weinmann rims: they are roughly of a Westrick/Raleigh rim's width, but without the center ridge. They're wider than a traditional Endrick rim.

 

VS Rims - the insides are coated with a non-slip paint

These rims are made in Holland, which makes sense given the large number of utility bikes available in that country. I don't know how widely available these rims are in the USA or Britain today, but apparently old stocks of them do occasionally show up. 

 

Rim information clearly presented - I like this feature of the VS rim

These rims won't solve the perennial problem of "I need a new rim with 32 holes in front and 40 holes in back", which tends to plague older English-made bikes. But if you have 36-hole hubs available, they are an option to build up a nice wheel set for an English bike. They also could be used to convert a Schwinn or other American-made three speed to the more common 650A/590mm tire size, down from the less common 597mm or 599mm size. 

Westrick/Raleigh pattern width, but without the center ridge

 

A short guide to these various replacement rims:

•  If you're looking for lightness, the Alesa, Weinmann, or Sun CR18 is better than the VS.
• If you're looking to maintain the width of your Westrick/Raleigh rims, the VS is better than the Alesa/Weinmann.
• If you're looking for durability, the VS is the heavier-built rim.
• If you're looking for better braking, the Weinmann, Alesa, or Sun is better.
• If you need 32h or 40h new rims, the Sun CR18 is the best option. 
• If you need 32h or 40h dead stock rims, original Raleighs are your best bet.