Phillips Rod Brake Roadster Update

An interesting aspect of this older Phillips rod brake bicycle is the use of a rear brake bell crank that threads into the bottom bracket. Phillips advertised these in their catalogs during the Birmingham years going back many decades and into the 1940s-50s. This particular bell crank is a sort of a work of art - heavy, solid metal pieces and that form a bell crank, which then threads into a half-round nut that is inside the bottom bracket.

 The internal nut is contoured to match the inside of the bottom bracket and to lock in place - this helps the mechanic to tighten the bell crank into place without having to shove a wrench inside the bottom bracket. It also helps keep a low profile so the nut stays out of the way of the spindle.

Reassembled, we can see the pros and cons of this system, compared to the Raleigh type, which is externally mounted. The Phillips type is very clean in appearance - the bell crank emerges cleanly from the bottom bracket. It also provides a very solid mounting point for the bell crank. However, servicing the system can be a pain - if the bell crank comes loose or you need to access that nut for any reason, you have to go into the bottom bracket. Everything on the Raleigh style can be done externally. But the Phillips style is still a nifty piece of design.

The bottom bracket bell crank connects via a rod to the upper bell crank. In true Phillips style, the upper bell crank mounts to the side of the head/down tubes lug. This, in turn, connects to the handle bars.

Cooler Weather - October 2018

Thus far we haven't actually had any really nice, "fall" weather. We seem to have gone from mid-80s and very humid, to 50s and cool. That being said, at least the cooler weather has brought drier conditions with it. We've had a copious amount of rain over the summer - many more inches than usual. I've had more "rain outs" this summer in terms of rides than in the past two summer combined.

So over the weekend, I got a chance to take out my Raleigh Twenty and my Raleigh Sports bikes. I love these 1970s-era Raleighs.

They're simple, reliable, and classy. These later Raleighs are often maligned compared to the earlier, 1950s-era bikes. And while these bikes may not be quite as well-finished or refined, they certainly are still very well-made and ridge wonderfully.

This 1974 Raleigh Sports is especially good. I've been riding this bike around for over 15 years, and it's one of my absolute favorites. In fact, I think this is a sentimental favorite of mine, given how many years and thousands of miles I've put on this bike.

1930s Phillips Rod Brake Roadster Bicycle Update

Here is just a quick update on the pre-WWII Phillips project. The wheelset now has its rim tape, tires, and tubes. I've cleaned out the bottom bracket  and prepped it for reassembly. The good news: the cups can be re-used and are in great shape. The bad news: the spindle needs to be replaced, but I do have a decent Phillips replacement at hand for the task.

I also de-rusted and re-painted many of the "small" parts that needed to be totally redone. This includes a couple of the fender stay holder parts and the rod brake clamps/stops. These will "wear in" gradually to resemble the rest of the project. These parts were in pretty rough shape. However, some Evaporust and a good wire brushing cleaned them up for basic painting. They don't need to be perfect - just work with this particular project.

As a tip - if you're using original screws (do it if you can re-use the originals), keep careful track of where they belong. While some screws interchange, others do not. There are some subtle differences in some of these screws because of how they have "worn into place" over the past 85+ years. Sometimes the screws might seem like they'll interchange, but if you get them all mixed up, you hit problems trying to re-assemble.  Here, each set of screws is right above the particular clamp or bracket they match.

1974 Raleigh Sports - Nice Fall Weather

After several days of rain, the past two have had outstanding weather. The past couple of days have given the best sort of fall weather: cooler and dry with lots of sun. We're starting to lose daylight, so the LED headlight installed on this Sports will be helpful in the coming weeks.

As I mentioned earlier, this September marks the 15th anniversary of my acquiring this 1974 Raleigh Sports bicycle.

'I've put tons of miles on this thing over the years, and I still love it dearly.

Pre-War 1930s Phillips Bicycle Project Update

A Pre-War Phillips Rod Brake Roadster

 Back in June, I bought a faded, very old Phillips bicycle. This appears to be a pre-war, early or mid 1930s-era Phillips bicycle, owing to the mixture of chrome and nickel plated parts. The bike was more or less complete, and still had its original paint, but was well-worn and faded.

This is the bicycle basically as it arrived. The cranks were somewhat bent and the chainring loose. The handle bars are original, but a piece of them had broken off in the fork steerer tube. The saddle is original (wow) but beat. Even one of the original, spring-loaded frame pump clamps is still there (but totally rusted). The rod brake parts are complete. The rear hub's cups and cones were shot, but the front hub is in much better shape.

So basically, the bike is there, but needed a lot of work. The wheel condition in particular was typical for a very old, very well-used English roadster. The rims were solid, but totally rusted and not very straight any more. The spokes were pitted and many were just plain shot. The nipples were a bear to adjust at all.

I've been working very slowly since June - just a couple of days per month on the bike. This weekend was the first weekend where I spent substantial time on the bike, other than just disassembly (which itself was time-consuming because of how gunked and/or rusted things were).

September 2018 Project Update

At this point, the bicycle is disassembled. I'm down to just the frame/fork/stays combo on the stand. I bag/box up the parts and keep parts together so I remember where they go. This bike in particular has some quirky elements that are very different from the more common, post-war Raleigh DL-1 roadster. So it's a good idea to keep the parts together and label what you have.

Cleaning old, black British paint

(You'll need: Scratch-X or Scratch Doctor or similarly good paint-friendly polish; soft, clean rags)

 

This very old bicycle appears to have the typically British, black paint from the pre-war era. Whatever its composition, this paint is not as hard as post-war Raleigh black paint, and when you polish the paint, it leaves a brown-ish color on the polish rag rather than pure black. However, this paint is still fairly durable and does a fine job protecting the base metal.

I used Scratch-X car polish on the bike, and the paint shined up nicely. It does not clean up quite as nicely as 1950s-era Raleigh black, but it's still pretty good. 

 

There's even some spots where the original pinstripes are still present, which is pretty good for an 85 year old bicycle.

The frame still has some decent Phillips transfers. This bicycle does not have a badge, it instead has an ornate Phillips (lion) transfer on the head tube. The lugs are of a straight-cut, very heavy-duty style. 

 

The seat tube "Phillips" transfer is pain, and in extraordinary shape for its age. I wish the lion was in as nice a condition, but this is still pretty good overall.

 

There are still some areas that are not totally shined-up. These are areas where there are delicate transfers or remnants of pinstripes. Since I want to preserve these things, I do not polish over them. I avoid them by carefully polishing by hand. It is time-consuming, but worth the preservation.

Frame Brazing Repair

One problem with the frame when the bike arrived was that there as a split in the rear fork joint. The way the rear forks are constructed, a solid piece of metal is sandwiched inside a cut in the chainstay tube end.  The sandwich was then brazed with a softer alloy, locking the solid "drop out metal" in place inside the chainstay. The non-drive side joint had opened up.

I took the frame over to Urban East, a motorcycle fabrication shop in Lorton, VA. They brazed-up the frame joint with an alloy, which is consistent with the original construction methods on this bike. I was very happy they recognized this was a job for brazing. The work was excellent, and the brazing work only minimally disturbed the nearby paint. I should be able to touch this up pretty easily.

Wheel Building 

(You'll need: new Westwood rims [28 x 1 1/2]; 72 new spokes [306mm in this case];  spoke head brass washers [Velofuze here]; nipple rim washers [Zipp Firecrest Westwood type here]; spoke wrench; and a little light oil).

The original Phillips rims are built like a tank - heavy and solid despite 85 years of rust. The original plating is badly worn and they are not very straight any more. So we have to build wheels... The original rear hub is nickel plated and a single speed, but the integral cups are shot. Someone was riding this bike with contaminated bearings at some point and tore big pits into the cups.

I've ordered a new set of Westwood KW Products rims from Yellow Jersey in Wisconsin. I've used a number of different "new" rims over the years for rod brake bikes, almost all from India. Certainly the original rims are better-made, but they stopped making those in Britain decades ago. 

These KW rims are actually not bad at all. They are heavier-built than the Avro rims I got from Britain a few years ago for another bike, and the plating is a bit nicer than the Eastman rims I bought for a post-war DL-1 probably 12 years ago. These KWs should work OK.

 

With Westwood rims, you always want to use a nipple-rim washer. The washer is sort of shaped like a taco shell - an oval that has a bend in it to match the contour of the Westwood rim's center ridge. I use Zipp Firecrest washers, and these are just as good as the originals (they may actually be even a little heavier-duty than the originals).

At the hub flange, you also want to use a brass spoke head washer (I'm using Velofuze here). The issue is that modern spokes tend to have longer elbows than the hub flange. The flange holes also have some wear on them, from being used in the past. The brass spoke washers will improve your spoke-to-flange fit.

To build wheels, I recommend Sheldon Brown's wheelbuilding instructions.

What Hubs Am I Using?

The original front Phillips hub is a 32-hole hub plated in nickel. It has a larger barrel than the post-war Raleigh type hubs. Thankfully, the hub is in great mechanical condition, with good integral cups. I bought a fresh set of Phillips cones (eBay) and added new bearing balls (Amazon). The grease I'm using is Lucas Green Synthetic grease from a small grease gun (Lowe's/Home Depot). 

The rear hub is an original Sturmey Archer AW hub from the late 1930s or early 1940s. This is a no-date hub with a small Sturmey brand strike and simply "Patent" at the bottom. This is a relatively early AW, judging from the internal parts. When I rebuilt the Sturmey hub, I went to new bearings, a longer axle, and a 1950s-era Sturmey driver that will accept a variety of cog sizes. For me, customizing the cog-to-sprocket ratio is "a must", especially on a heavier roadster like this one.

What's Next?

At this point, I need to clean up the fenders with polish. Once I've polished everything, that will establish a baseline for what kind of touch-up paint I will need (gloss vs semi-gloss vs flat black). I will then de-rust the touch up areas and match those areas to the original paint. The result will be a pretty clean finish overall. Original paint will be left alone wherever possible, and touch-up will be the least intrusive that I can make it.

I also need to re-build the headset. It will need new grease and probably new bearing balls. We'll see what condition we have in there once I open it up in a few days.