Friday, April 10, 2026

A Couple Nice Finds, and Gradually Migrating Back to the Outdoor Shop

Just a brief note as the weather slowly turns to spring. I always enjoy receiving old parts in their original packing. Sometimes they come with nice little boxes with the company logo or a part number label on the side. 

 

Helpful Parts, also Interesting Old Boxes

I recently received some unused, vintage wiring terminal hooks (Raleigh / Sturmey Archer Dynohub type) and vintage wiring clips for dynohub type lights (also Raleigh / Sturmey Archer). I don't have a huge number of bikes with dynohub lights, but I do have a few. These old-style hooks were standard equipment for many years on the older Raleigh bikes, and the clips are helpful getting the wire securely fastened to fork blades. 

 

Other than that, I'm still working on the 1940 Schwinn New World and I am gradually moving back to my three-season shop for work. Here in western New England, our weather is cold enough in the winter that an unheated shop is basically useless in the winter. This past winter was particularly cold in January and part of February. 

During the cold, winter months, I do light-duty repairs in an unused, indoor storage room. Some heavier work or fabrication of parts involving torches, benders, and heat has to wait until I can get back to the larger shop. I move over the course of a couple of weeks, putting my supplies in boxes and moving them down to the shop. I do not leave my good tools unattended in the three-season shop. I'm a stickler for keeping my tools safe and always pack them up at night, bringing them back into my house.

A Wonderful, Light-Up Shop Sign I Purchased

Looking forward to warmer weather ahead next week. This week was below-average in terms of temperature. But hopefully we are headed toward better weather next week for some ride time.

Thursday, April 2, 2026

1940 Schwinn New World - Repairing Imperfections, Part 2

 I wrote previously about "repairing imperfections, old and new", where I discussed fixing different problems on a 1940 Schwinn New World bike, some of which were always there and some that resulted from years of hard use. 

A recurring problem on pre-World War 2 Schwinn New World bikes is the breakage of the fragile wire fender braces they used. The braces tend to crack around the rivet hole because not enough material is present there. 


Fixing old parts like this is a challenge. There are no direct replacement parts made today, so you have to get creative.  

Let's use the fragile Schwinn wire braces as an example.  There is no "kit" to repair these kinds of very old parts. I had a handful of them to repair. Some were cracked, and some were totally broken. In my book, a viable solution should fix both a broke and a cracked brace. Be creative and consider your options. I got some help from a couple of family members who know how to weld. I also did some soldering and brazing. 

  • Arc/Stick Welding: an old school method, but not delicate enough for this job.

  • Flux core: Small flux core welding machines are popular do-it-yourself options today. Initially the flux core machine burned through the spine of the brace. After adding donor material from the head of a nail and turning the machine way down, a successful weld was made. The weld then had to be bored out for a new screw/rivet hole. The boring out process is a challenge because the welded area is kind of hard. A carbine Dremel head worked best to bore a new hole.

    Flux core with donor material - notice the wider center.

  • Brazing: A traditional solution. Works adequately on the braces, though does not add as much strength as welding with donor material. But if you have a decent propane or Mapp torch, brazing is an option to fix a broken wire brace. Boring out the hole is easier because brazing is softer than weld material. This will fix the braces adequately for their purpose. It's very much possible to re-break them if you're rough. The brazing rod material flows and sticks nicely on the steel (make sure the material is clean and you use flux). 

    A broken brace, brazed back together

  • Oxy/Acetylene Welding: An old school form of welding. Similar to the brazing process but harder material and higher temperatures. Doable. My understanding is that this is kind of a by-gone process and most people who weld opt for MIG, TIG, or one of the portable flux core machines. (But gas welding is by no means obsolete - it was a go-to method for much of the 20th century). 

  • TIG Welding: A modern form of welding preferred for delicate repairs. This would be a good solution as well. The material needs to be clean. I have a lot of respect for people who can TIG weld and get the "stack of dimes" look. If you know how to TIG weld, you probably don't need my advice.

  • Silver Soldering: Too weak to be effective, even when washers were used to help provide rigidity. I tried this three times: once with just solder (don't bother), once with a single washer as a backer (weak), once with two washers as backers (a bit better but still too weak). Even basic testing allowed me to pull apart the repair. Avoid this for these kinds of braces.

    Silver solder with backers - an interesting idea that didn't work 
      

Suggestions: TIG Welding, brazing, or gas welding all would be options. Flux core is an option if you are  careful and have donor material (and you don't mind working to bore out a new hole). Don't bother trying to use an arc/stick or silver solder.

 

What about that cracked front fender? I previously wrote about how the bike was delivered upside down, with the bottom (now the top) opened. The front fender was cracked in the process of being slammed around in shipping.

When the arrow on the box is merely a suggestion...

 

The fender sheet metal is very thin, even by today's standards. So as with the limited material on the braces, processes like arc/stick are probably a no-go. It probably would just burn through the material. The flux core welder also was at the edge of its abilities with the braces. Here the metal is even thinner. I suppose with donor material it could be fixed, but I think that metal is too thin for the flux core. 

After some thought, and the experience with the braces, I decided to braze the cracks. The fender doesn't carry much weight, though something more than silver solder or epoxy is needed here. So out came the torch and I brazed a couple of lines along the cracks. One side got a little more braze than was strictly needed, but with smoothing it will look fine and stop any more cracking.


 The next jobs are to patch up the paint in the repair area and get things re-assembled.


Wednesday, April 1, 2026

False Spring or Real Spring? Around Here, One Can Never Tell

 We're finally starting to get a smattering of warm days, at occasionally. As recently as March 28 (4 days ago), the temperature was only in the 30's F (3 deg C). That weekend was disappointingly cold and prevented any work in the barn shop. But by Monday March 30, the temperature was in the 60s F (18 deg C), then up to 75 F (24 deg C). It is fairly common that we get such temperature swings in late March and early April here. I just wish the warm weather would stay for a weekend when I have a little more free time...

That begs the question whether the warm weather is really starting, or it is "false spring" - a few warm days followed by a return to colder weather. 

Given the warm weather, I took the 1964 Schwinn Traveler out for a ride. It is a tentative start to the riding season, but at least it's a start. It remains to be seen whether frequent riding now resumes or if we drop back down to colder, rainy weather. But for now, it's nice to be back out on the road.


 


Friday, March 27, 2026

On Vintage Bike Parts, Supplies, Etc.

 

Vintage Spares: spare Webb calipers, SA cog spacers, SA lamp brackets

In the vintage bicycle repair hobby, the thinking on vintage parts and supplies can be divided into a spectrum with two very broad camps at the ends: those who buy parts and supplies on an "as-needed" basis, and those who "stock up". In between the two ends are those who stock up on certain parts or supplies, but not others.

At the "as-needed" end of the spectrum the person tends to keep a minimal stock of spares and then hunt for parts when something breaks down or a new project comes in and needs parts or supplies. [The dysfunctional version of this person keeps almost nothing as spares, then hounds other hobbyists when something breaks down and a part is needed.]  

At the "stock up" end, the person buys parts and supplies ahead of time and then stores them. When a project comes in or a bike needs something, the person breaks the part out of storage. [The dysfunctional version of this hoards large numbers of parts and never uses them, even if they're needed.]

Bulk pack of unused, vintage Sturmey Archer spoke nipples

 

My advice, after 30+ years of fixing old bikes, is to practice "smart stocking". Smart stocking involves keeping a targeted stock of parts or supplies, aimed at careful buying and stocking the "often needed" stuff. Here are my basic rules:

  •  Think about the part or supply and ask yourself "is this one of those parts or supplies that always seems to be missing, broken, or in need of replacement on this kind of bike?". There are certain parts and supplies that wear out or are prone to breakage. Target those kinds of things for stocking up a bit.

  • Learn what a "good" or at least "fair" price is for the part or supply. Don't overpay. Learn how common the part is.

  • Have an idea of how many spares and supplies you have. For example, having a few spare brake levers around can be good if you're rebuilding projects. Having 10 spare sets in a box somewhere is probably overkill...

When you hit the trifecta above, that's when stocking up is a good idea: (1) it's a part/supply often needed for the kinds of bikes you repair, (2) you see it at a good price and it's not easy to find, and (3) you're not already stocked up on it.  

I use this thinking because storage space is a limited resource. I keep my spare parts in labeled bags, tins, and boxes that are stored in water-tight plastic tubs. Items prone to rust or corrosion are given a shot of WD40 in their bag and then sealed up. I put labels on the bags, tins, and boxes so I know what the part is inside. 

A spare 1940s era Raleigh tail lamp

 

The bottom line is that you don't need to be a hoarder and you don't need to be "that person" who is always hounding others for parts. You can stock up in a smart way that gives you the parts and supplies you need while also making an efficient use of storage space. 

A vintage Sturmey Archer spare hub - 1951

 

 

Friday, March 20, 2026

1926 Raleigh Catalogue - Miniature Consumer Catalogue

 


Arriving earlier this week is this very interesting, very old Raleigh mini catalogue from around 1926. This catalogue is about 100 years old and gives a glimpse into the old-style, traditional bicycles of that period. 

The 1920s were a conservative period for Raleigh and Sturmey Archer. The companies built tried-and-true designs, such as the Model K hub and the various rod brake roadsters. These bicycles pre-date the more "modern" sporting and light roadster bikes we think of today. Raleigh and Sturmey Archer were more innovative in the 1930s, with the arrival of more cable brake models such as the "Sports" series, and newer hubs such as the AW and AB series. 


 

We also must not forget the terrible toll taken by the First World War, known in those days as "The Great War". The horrors of that war were still fresh in British memory in 1926. It is estimated that between 880,000 and 890,000 British servicemen were killed, with over 1.6 million wounded in a little over four years of fighting. This is not to mention the additional killed and wounded from the wider British empire and dominions.

After such trauma, the 1920s were both a conservative time for Raleigh and Sturmey Archer, and a more optimistic one generally in Britain, as it emerged from the horrors of war. Unfortunately, this optimism was wiped out by the great depression and the rise of Nazi Germany in the 1930s.


 

Raleigh's return to the United States was also still several years away. I've written previously about early "modern" lightweight bikes and an early Raleigh USA sales brochure dating to about 1934. Raleigh was basically conservative (or "bearish" in stock market speak) on the US market. They had a tough go of things in the 1890s and did not want to re-visit their failure in the US market. Eventually Raleigh enthusiast Hamilton Osgood, of Boston, Massachusetts, would push Raleigh to return to the US market in the 1930s.

Overall, this 1926 catalogue gives us a glimpse of Raleigh in the post-WW1 era - a fundamentally conservative time for Raleigh, before the innovations and upheavals of the 1930s. 

A pdf of this 1926 catalogue can be downloaded from the Classic and Antique Bicycle Exchange, HERE

A pdf of the 1934 Raleigh sales brochure can also be found at the CABE, see HERE

 

Friday, March 13, 2026

Another Option in 26 x 1 3/8 (650A / 590mm) Rims - Van Schothorst

 I'm always hunting for good quality wheel parts for old three speed bikes. Good wheels breathe life into an old bike, whether vintage, upgraded, or modified. I prefer to use vintage parts that are generally consistent with the presentation of a vintage bike. I like an old-style rim that fits with the period in which the bike was made, even if the rim itself is not quite that old.

I wrote previously about Alesa aluminum rims in the 26 x 1 3/8 (590mm "650A") size. Those aluminum rims are a vintage item, Made in Belgium. They have roughly an Endrick rim width, but with a center ridge similar to a Westrick/Raleigh pattern rim. Interestingly, Weinmann made a very similar rim in the USA for a number of years. I have a set of those as well, and they are similar to the Alesa but a little more heavy-duty. Both are 36 hole rims and would look reasonably at home on a vintage three speed bike. 

This week, I received another vintage 26 x 1 3/8 set of rims: Van Schothorst steel rims. These rims are also 36 hole types. These VS rims are fairly heavy-duty and pretty well finished. There aren't any rough spots or seams on the outside that would catch your brake pads. Interestingly, they are the opposite of the Alesa/Weinmann rims: they are roughly of a Westrick/Raleigh rim's width, but without the center ridge. They're wider than a traditional Endrick rim.

 

VS Rims - the insides are coated with a non-slip paint

These rims are made in Holland, which makes sense given the large number of utility bikes available in that country. I don't know how widely available these rims are in the USA or Britain today, but apparently old stocks of them do occasionally show up. 

 

Rim information clearly presented - I like this feature of the VS rim

These rims won't solve the perennial problem of "I need a new rim with 32 holes in front and 40 holes in back", which tends to plague older English-made bikes. But if you have 36-hole hubs available, they are an option to build up a nice wheel set for an English bike. They also could be used to convert a Schwinn or other American-made three speed to the more common 650A/590mm tire size, down from the less common 597mm or 599mm size. 

Westrick/Raleigh pattern width, but without the center ridge

 

A short guide to these various replacement rims:

  •  If you're looking for lightness, the Alesa, Weinmann, or Sun CR18 is better than the VS.
  • If you're looking to maintain the width of your Westrick/Raleigh rims, the VS is better than the Alesa/Weinmann.
  • If you're looking for durability, the VS is the heavier-built rim.
  • If you're looking for better braking, the Weinmann, Alesa, or Sun is better.
  • If you need 32h or 40h new rims, the Sun CR18 is the best option. 
  • If you need 32h or 40h dead stock rims, original Raleighs are your best bet. 


Friday, February 27, 2026

Handling Imperfections, New and Old

The 1940 New World project continues. Every project has its challenges, sometimes through years or use, shipping damage, or even manufacturing defects.

Let's take a look at a manufacturing defect inherent on these pre-1945 New World bikes. These bikes have wire fender braces, which was typical for that time. Less typically, the braces are mounting by drilling and screwing through them rather than holding them in brackets. This represents a mixture of English style (wire braces) and American style (drilling and riveting the braces) construction.

At the factory, it appears that the process was very simple - shape the wire brace, then stamp it where it needed to be flat. No extra material seems to have been added to the spine where it would be drilled for the rivet. The result is a weak spot where the rivet hole was placed.

 

An old break... Which Still Should be Fixed

Above you can see what happens to these braces. When this particular brace was drilled, the hole was a little off-center, leaving very little metal on one side. When the rivet was stamped into place, it cracked the thin side of the hole. This particular brace was carefully removed from the fender without any harm, so this break seems to have existed since 1940, when the bike was assembled. 

The basic solution here will be to either weld or braze the crack back together. A more permanent solution would be to weld or braze additional metal around this area to strengthen the brace. The solution will probably require a fair amount of grinding and shaping the joint, then some re-drilling of the hole (hopefully more on-center this time). These braces are notorious for cracking or totally breaking right around this rivet hole. 

Schwinn ultimately (and wisely) replaced this style of brace with their heavy-duty type fender braces shortly after WWII ended. The later braces are much, much stronger than the pre-1945 types. Although the wire braces is simple, and in some ways elegant, the later braces are much more practical.  The higher-end Continental of the late 1940s used wire braces that were held in place by brackets (no drilling of the wire), which worked much better.

Wire bracket-wire braces on a 1947 Continental
 

The decision whether to fix an old imperfection is a judgment call. Sometimes these imperfections are just cosmetic, so nothing need be done (or should be done, for sake of originality). 

The decision is usually a bit clearer with new injuries to the bike. 

Cracks - not terrible, but should be fixed just the same...

The above photo shows cracks from stress and shipping damage. These pre-1945 New World fenders use slotted-and riveted brackets. A slot is cut in the fender, the bracket is inserted and then riveted into place. Later New Worlds used external brackets riveted to the surface, without cutting the fender. Again, the later solution is the more robust even if not quite as elegant and low-profile. 

In this case, we can see the origins... the bottom of the bike box broke open and the bike was delivered upside down, with all the weight resting on the top of the fender. The box was open as you see below. The mechanized delivery systems can be rough on these old bikes... I'm just lucky the entire bike arrived without anything major missing from it.

A Worrying Sight on Arrival...
 

In this case, the cracks can be brazed or welded and smoothed. If these cracks were not near the bracket or in a weight-bearing area, they could be mended using sheet metal perpendicular to the crack, and JB Weld epoxy.

My approach to these newer imperfections is to fix them, even if cosmetic. I don't mind "honest wear" or something that came with the bike when it was made, but I have a dislike for shipping damage, abuse, or neglect injuries to the bike. All of this kind of work goes into refurbishing an old bike, particularly an 85+ year old machine such as this one.

Friday, February 20, 2026

New Project - 1940 Schwinn New World Tall Frame

 My thought of "downsizing" the collection has so far been thwarted by the arrival of some very interesting bicycle projects in winter 2025-26. The latest arrival is this 1940 Schwinn New World three speed bike. 

 

As-found - but it all has to start somewhere...

One of the fun aspects of the old bike hobby is seeing the outline of a nice bicycle while still "in the rough". In other words, you can see the potentially nice bicycle while looking at the project in its dusty, unwashed, unrefubished state. In this case, I can see the outline of a classic, early American-made utility bike with a desirable taller frame of 23-inches. This particular bike was located in the basement of a long-standing bike and sports/ice hockey (another fun pastime - see here for some previous hockey fun I had) shop just outside of Chicago, Illinois (they were featured on NBC's "Today" show a couple years ago - see here). The seller was a very nice, helpful shop owner. I wish we still had shops like this in my neighborhood...

I've already started on this bike. I have it totally disassembled in my workshop and washed-up. I've begun removing cleaning up the paint and removing rust. I've sourced a few period replacement parts. I have singled out the front fender for some crack repair (spot welding and grinding probably) and one of the braces for crack repair (spot weld, drill, smooth probably). This bike has quite a distance to go, but I am already seeing a great deal of potential for a classic, pre-war Schwinn utility bike ready for riding season 2026.

This bike joins two other recent acquisitions: a WWII era Raleigh Dawn Safety Tourist, and a 1949-50 Schwinn New World already in excellent shape. And here I started winter 2025-26 thinking I would be "downsizing"... so much for that... With all these nice bikes around, I hope riding season 2026 has a lot of good weather.

Friday, February 13, 2026

Ultrasonic Cleaners - A Few Tips

 


Modern, ultrasonic cleaners offer the ability to clean parts using vibration, water, and heat to clean and de-grease parts. This kind of work used to be completed with chemicals such as paint thinner, mineral spirits, etc. and scrubbing. Ultrasonic cleaners allow you to use a water-based, less toxic cleaner and let the machine to more of the work. You'll still have to do a little scrubbing and drying by hand, but the machine does a lot of the cleaning work.

I've used ultrasonic cleaners for bike parts for about 15 years now. I started with a small machine made by Lyman and eventually moved to a pair of larger machines made by Vevor. The Lyman was a good machine, but on the small side and limited to a 6-minute timer.  The Vevor machines I use are not bad: they have the features I like, though I will admit they're somewhat inexpensively built. The metal used is of a fairly thin gauge. But I have had good luck with them so far. There are probably many other brands that would work well. These machines allow you to put parts in to clean while you work on other tasks in the shop.

Here are a few pointers for working with ultrasonic cleaners:

  • Get a machine with a long timer - preferably a 30-minute timer. Some ultrasonic cleaners look nice from the outside, but the timer only runs in 5 or 10 minute increments. For really dirty parts, you'll want to run it longer - probably 20 or more minutes. My cleaners have 30-minute timers and that has worked well. Sometimes it takes two or three 30-minute cycles if something is really dirty. 

  •  Get a reasonably large machine. Small cleaners seem to be cost-effective, but you'll find they struggle to handle heavier cleaning loads. Also, you'll probably find you use more capacity than you think you will use at first. I have a 6 liter cleaner in my upstairs shop and a 10 liter in my basement shop. These are considered medium-sized cleaners. They will handle a completely dismantled Sturmey Archer AW hub (including the shell) in one fill, but just barely. It sounds like a lot, but once you start putting dirty parts into the basket, you'll find yourself using more space than you expected at first.

  • Get a machine with easy-to-read settings and large-ish buttons. Garage and basement shops sometimes have iffy lighting. Large buttons and displays help you get the machine set up correctly.

  • Get a machine with a good drain valve. Manual dumping works for small machines, but medium and larger machines should have a good, sturdy ball valve so you can drain the machine without having to lift and dump. It's also a plus if the valve has a threaded pipe end so you can directly pipe the water into a waste basin. 

  • Get a machine with a good basket having rubber feet. The basket does more work than you think, especially when it's fully loaded with parts. Rubber feet help reduce wear against the tank bottom.

  • Get a couple of good, mini-baskets to hang in the main basket. Small, wire mesh baskets are available to put inside the main basket. These hold small parts such as screws, spacers, etc. Get a couple sizes of these hanging, opening baskets so you can put small parts into the machine. The main basket is only for medium and lager parts.

  • Get a machine with a heater and a thermometer. Heat makes a big difference in washing parts. Get a machine with a heater and a thermometer. You can custom set the heat level to the part you are cleaning.

  • Get a machine with a sturdy, easy-to-access on-off switch. Some machines have large, flip switches on the back that make it easy to quickly see if the power is on to the machine, and easy to turn off in a hurry. 

  • Follow the directions carefully. These machines need a certain minimum amount of water to function correctly. Make sure you know how much water you must add. It helps also if there is a max-fill line so you don't over-fill the machine. 

  • Wipe-out the machine after each use. Very dirty parts will cause gunk to build up in the bottom of the machine. After draining, make sure you wipe out gunk on the bottom. Be careful - the machine may still be hot. 

  • Work up a routine with your cleaning solution. After awhile, you'll get a feel for cleaning solutions that work. I use a mixture of water and Simple Green cleaner. I also spray parts with Dawn Power Wash dish soap and let them sit a few minutes before putting into the tank. You don't need harsh or toxic chemicals to wash. 

  • Always shut down the machine fully when leaving it unattended for long periods. I don't recommend putting wash in and then going to the grocery or hardware store. Stay close by while the machine is working and on. If you have to leave, shut down the machine and return to work later. You don't want a fire or electrical problem while you are away. 

  • Be careful of hot parts. Parts will be warm or even hot when they come out of the machine. Don't burn yourself on the parts or water. Do not use flammable chemicals in the cleaner. Stick with water and a household type cleaner such as dish soap, Simple Green, etc. A little citrus or purple de-greaser can be added to the mix for very dirty parts. Stick with water-based cleaners that are not too harsh to handle. Also, be careful of painted parts in the machine. Some paint finishes may become compromised by heat and cleaner. Check on the parts periodically to make sure they are not losing their finish. 

Friday, February 6, 2026

History: English Bicycles on WWII Airbases

 

British RAF Airmen with Bicycles and Lancaster Bomber

When people talk about military bikes in World War II, hobbyists often think immediately of the BSA Paratrooper folding bikes, or perhaps the American-made Westfield paratrooper folding bikes. People tend to think first of elite paratroopers dropping behind enemy lines just before D-Day, unfolding their bikes, and then bravely completing their missions under cover of darkness.  

What often is forgotten is that the majority of bicycles serving with the allies during the war were far more mundane, civilian-style roadsters pressed into service on army bases and airbases. These bikes did not equip elite paratroopers, rather they served as hard-working, daily transportation for mechanics, airmen, soldiers, and officers.  These bikes often stand out in old, black-and-white photos with their dark paint and white-tipped rear fenders.

American airmen with damaged B-17 on their roadsters

Some of these English bikes were produced during wartime as stripped-down models. Others were pre-war civilian bikes pressed into service. Some bikes were cable brake Sports models. Other bikes used in this way were rod brake roadsters or cargo bikes for delivering supplies, parts, or mail. Caliper brake sporting bikes and rod brake roadsters seem to have been popular with both RAF and USAAF airmen, and soldiers in British Army and the U.S. Army. 

American armorers prepare a P-47 fighter, with an English roadster bike

 

English roadsters at an allied base

The Americans certainly brought some of their own bikes with them. Balloon tire bike enthusiasts often seek out military-specific balloon tire bikes, such as an olive drab colored Westfield. While American-made balloon tire military bikes certainly also played a role, far more common was the basic English roadster from before the war, pressed into service as an all-purpose transport on the American or British base. 

Commonwealth forces on rod brake roadsters

These English bikes lived hard lives, often being parked against buildings or fences and left out in the weather. They were utilitarian vehicles for life on the base. Many must have had inner tubes patched many-times over... But these bicycles satisfied the need for reliable transportation in a difficult time of war and privation in England. We should not forget the vital supporting role they played in the allied war effort, often behind the scenes. 

American airmen with English roadsters and a B-17 bomber

These hard-working roadsters and sporting bikes pressed into service were popular with soldiers and airmen, to the point that there was a mini-boom in English bikes in the USA after the war ended. Soldiers and airmen who enjoyed these bicycles in England thought they might also be useful back at home in the USA. Although this increase in popularity did not last, we should not forget the important role English utility bikes played in the allied effort to defeat nazi Germany and fascist Italy between 1939 and 1945. 

Base personnel with Lancaster bomber and English bicycles

 

Airmen head to their planes among parked English bicycles

 

Australian RAF aircrew with Lancaster bomber and English bicycle

RAF bomber with English roadster parked next to it


 

U.S. aircrew member on an airbase with his English bike


 

Monday, February 2, 2026

This isn't "downsizing"... 1949 - 50 Schwinn New World

 

I had hoped 2026 would be a year of somewhat downsizing my collection. So far it has not unfolded that way; because over the weekend I acquired this beautiful Schwinn New World. 

Nice bike in a nice color...

This was a Facebook Market purchase from a very nice, fellow collector in New York state. For this bike a family member joined me (not the Mrs this time - she only volunteers for runs where the bike is leaving rather than arriving) for a road trip from my home in Connecticut to the Hudson valley area of New York. The seller was located along the edge where the base of the Catskills meet the Hudson River Valley.  It's a beautiful area, but is very cold and windy this time of the year...

With the trip made and the bike purchased, what we find is a beautiful example of a late production New World. The frame size is nominally 21 inches on 26-inch wheels, with the tape actually showing a 22-inch frame in practice (as is common on these post-war New Worlds). The machine-stamped serial number on the bottom bracket looks to be from 1949, perhaps fall 1949. That would make this bike a late 1949 or early 1950 model bicycle. 

Welded seam on the bottom bracket and machine-stamped serial
 

As traditional New World bikes go, that is pretty late in the production run. In the early 1950s, Schwinn converted New Worlds over to the "World" style ornate winged frame graphics. 


Although the pre-war New Worlds have stronger collector cachet, I love the rider value of these post-war New Worlds because their frames tend to be a bit larger and their mixed welded and brazed construction make them quite robust. Parts are also easier to find for them than their pre-war cousins. In fact, I sold off all my pre-war Schwinn lightweights and kept the post-war ones because I think the ride value and parts availability is that much better.

Good graphics - hat-in-the-ring and Schwinn logo

The condition and the color caught my eye. It is the same color as my 1947 Continental. Most of the New Worlds that turn up from the late 1940s are black, red, or maroon with gold pinstripes. This Continental-style blue is a much less common color on the New Worlds (though common late 1940s Continentals). The saddle is from the 1960s or 70s. The stem and bars look to be off a late 1950s Racer. Paint, chrome, and graphics are in good shape. 

Frame is a mixture of welded and brazed, same as my 1947 frame. This has a later style chain guard with the hockey stick plus cable hook on top (my 1947 has the wing chain guard). Head set is the same style as my Superior and Continental - hexagonal nut type rather than the knurled cup/dish type.


 

Excellent condition - pinstripes visible still

The wheels are chromed Schwinn S6 (597mm). Hubs are Schwinn script front and New Departure coaster brake rear. I plan to build a second, rider wheel set for this bike from quality, vintage parts. I'll use a 3-speed Sturmey Archer rear hub and add Schwinn-built, correct hand brakes. 

This bike adds to a family of early post-war (1945-50) Schwinn lightweights I own currently. 

  • 1947 New World
  • 1947 Continental
  • 1949-50 New World
  • 1950 Superior 

They're great riding bikes and emblematic of that early post-war period when Schwinn was trying to keep pace with the growing number of British-made imported lightweights from the likes of Raleigh, Hercules Cycle, and BSA. Adult-oriented lightweights had a relatively strong niche in the American market in the years following WWII (unfortunately, this did not last very long...). 

I've been an advocate of these American-made touring bikes for quite a few years. These bikes are often overlooked today because they fall between the cracks of various collector markets. Schwinn collectors often collect balloon tire and middleweight bicycles because of the deluxe accessories and pre-war and mid-century designs. Collectors of lightweight road bikes gravitate toward higher end imported bikes made from Reynolds tubing and alloy components. In between fall these American-made lightweights that don't quite connect with either market. They're still great bikes and very affordable classics today.

So this isn't really "downsizing"... is it? Perhaps I will still find a bike or two to sell or donate to offset this New World's arrival. I showed the Mrs the New World and the response was "that's nice... now which one is leaving?". I get the sense other collectors know the feeling... new year new acquisition... same collection. I suppose she's right, in a way. You can only ride them one at a time...


Friday, January 30, 2026

1948 Raleigh Headlamp Tag

 Working gradually through the 1948 Raleigh Sports Tourist refurbishment. I had forgotten how much I dislike working on full-sized chain/gear cases... They certainly look nice but the hockey stick guard is so much more convenient.

 While disassembling and cleaning the headlamp, I found a tag showing wiring instructions and bulb specifications for an early post-war GH6 set up. It's a neat piece of history and specification for old school Raleighs. I'll probably tape a photocopy of the original in the lamp and preserve the original in a little bag.


 

Friday, January 23, 2026

A Look Ahead - Projects for 2026

 January is a good time to take a look at the year ahead. There is no riding here now because we are deep into winter (high of 9 deg. F [-12 deg C] and 12 to 18 inches [30 to 46 cm] of new snow this weekend). I am currently repairing bicycles in my heated work room on the second floor of my house. 

 

1948 Raleigh Sports Tourist:

 This bike came from Facebook market. It was located in eastern Connecticut and though dirty from years of storage, still in pretty good shape overall. I am in the middle of cleaning and rebuilding this bike. It has received a total disassembly and cleaning. I am now in the process of re-assembling. No road testing will take place until the end of winter probably, given the weather we are having. I bought this bike in the first weekend of February, 2025. A year later, I've finally gotten to it and am refurbishing it. Sometimes it takes me awhile to get to projects...

 


 

1941-46 Raleigh Dawn Safety Tourist  (old style Model 19):

This bike came from a very kind, fellow collector in Massachusetts. It was located south of Boston. It is a very unusual bike in the US, given that it is a "Dawn" model, but has the old-style roadster frame. The Dawn series switched in 1946 to the more-familiar "Sports" style frame with rod brakes. This bike has a no-date Sturmey Archer AW rear hub with the "Patent" inscription. The headset is the post-war style. I suspect the bike is from the tail end of the war or shortly after WWII ended. It has many black-out parts. This bike will probably be my next project after the 1948 Sports Tourist.


 

 

1966 Raleigh Sports:

This bike came from a Facebook Market ad in my area. The drive was only about 20 minutes each way, which is fairly close for a vintage bike find. This area is not known for being fertile ground for good, vintage bikes. In this area, we tend to see a lot of worn-out, rusty, or junky old garage bikes and not something you would want to repair. This bike is a cut above the usual Sports, but below the Superbe. It has a locking fork and Dynohub light set. I bought this bike in the fall of 2025, when people tend to offload bikes and "warm weather" items they don't have space to keep. The price was a bargain.

 


1965 Schwinn Deluxe Racer:

This bike came from eBay. I put in a reduced "make an offer" amount and the seller accepted it because the bike was sitting. It's a tall frame model, which is a plus. It's coppertone in color, which is very much a 1960s color. The chrome is mostly good. The insides of the fenders are a bit rough, as they always seem to be 60+ years later. I'll probably clean and reassemble this bike, then either sell it at a loss or donate it to a local charity. As of now, I don't plan on keeping it. I was honestly kind of surprised the seller took my offer, but "you never know".  This bike is currently totally taken apart and needs to be re-assembled.


 

Other: 

I have some other projects at hand on bikes I have already finished. I plan to upgrade the wheel set on my 1950 Schwinn Superior, probably from standard S6 chrome rims to S6 stainless. Another alternative would be a set of USA-made Weinmann alloy rims. But I am leaning toward the period-correct stainless rims. 

I am also doing the usual maintenance. I keep a maintenance chart on-hand to keep track of what I need to do (a good idea if you build up an old bike collection). Repairing or refurbishing and old bikes is not the end of the process. Even once the bikes is in good shape and back on the road, periodic maintenance and cleaning is needed. These are not "high maintenance" bikes, but they also do not thrive on neglect. 

 

 

 

 

 

Friday, January 16, 2026

Advertising Bicycles to Adults in the Heyday of the Automobile - 1950s Ads

In the United States, the 1950s are remembered generally as the decade of Eisenhower, suburbanization, white picket fences, and automobiles. 

Many of the "classic" cars that come to mind today were built in the 1950s: Chevy Bel Airs, Cadillac Eldorados, Corvettes, Ford Thunderbirds, Studebaker Hawks, and the like. Even classic import cars like the VW Beetle, Jaguar XK series, MGT, MGA, and Porsche 356 found a growing market. Likewise the decade is remembered for its children's and youth's bikes: Schwinn Phantoms, Corvettes, and Wasps; Columbia Deluxes and Superbs, and similar. 

But did you know that even during those years, there was still at least some active trade in practical bicycles for adults?

In a previous article, I wrote about the rise and decline of practical and sporting bicycles for adults between 1910 and 1960.  I also wrote about the popularity of English three speed bikes in the USA during the 1960s. And although the 1950s might have been a generally "lean" time for high-quality "lightweight" bicycles for adults in the USA, there was still quite a bit of activity in some corners of the market. 

Let's take a look at a few newspaper and magazine ads for shops, sales, and parts in the USA during the 1950s.


 Above is a 1951 magazine ad for U.S. Royal (later Uniroyal) bike tires. Although this ad came during the heyday of the balloon tire cruiser (the Schwinn Phantom was hitting its stride), this ad focuses on three-speed and similar bikes for adults. Today we associate the term "lightweight" with racing style bikes. But in the 1950s, this term also referred to any kind of "skinny tire" type touring bike, including the venerable Raleigh Sports, Schwinn New World, and Schwinn Continental. 

The focus in this ad is on performance, with the silhouette appearing to be that of a late 1940s Schwinn Continental ladies model (not to be confused with the later 10-speed Continental). The ad shows a common, straight-groove tire tread. I've owned a few of these tires over the years. They were pretty well made, though now 70+ years later, they're too dried or worn out to get much more mileage. It's too bad we don't have a wider variety of traditional yet premium tires for these old bikes. Sometimes you want a traditional style tire and tread made to a high standard.

 


 Above is a newspaper ad from the late 1950s for the "Spin-Trim" bicycle roller. Today we associate rollers and trainers with hardcore cyclists on racing or road bikes. But this ad shows a more pedestrian, 3-speed Schwinn Racer on the roller. Apparently children were also to be included in this ad, though I find it hard to believe children were riding on rollers during winter months (they were probably out playing in the snow instead). I am not sure how well these rollers sold, but at least there was some market for them. 

 


 Above is another late 1950s ad. This ad shows a classic 1950s Schwinn Traveler bike, which was Schwinn's premium touring machine of that time. It was meant to compete with the Raleigh Superbe and similar higher-end touring and utility bikes. 

During the 1950s and into the 1960s, Schwinn exerted extraordinary efforts to control dealer floor space and to trim out under-performing dealers or dealers who dealt primarily in other brands of bikes.  The ad above shows the kind of ad Schwinn would have liked. It features the Schwinn logo, authorized deal banner, and Schwinn bicycle prominently. If Cadillac was the "standard of the world" for automobiles, then Schwinn wanted to be that same standard for bicycles. Interestingly, the Traveler was advertised alongside "Everything for the Racing Cyclist", as well as tandems.  This store probably did more business than most in adult bicycles, even though that segment of the market was still very small compared to the youth side of the market.

 


Bicycle historians tend to focus on Schwinn's attempts to control dealer floor space in the 1950s and 60s, with exclusive-dealing type arrangements and the "total store" concept. But some dealers tended to resist this model, particularly where other brands of bicycles might sell well. In the ad above, we see a mixture of brands and Schwinn is not listed first. In this case, Raleigh is the more prominent brand and is apparently the "Champion of Bicycles". 

The repair focus of this ad also may account for the mixture of brands advertised. Perhaps more than selling bikes, they were fixing them at this particular shop.  Schwinn would also try to control this side of its market through its factory service school and approved mechanic system. This particular shop was probably adept at repairing three speed bikes at a time when most bicycles in America were single-speed coaster brake models for kids.


In this small sampling of ads, we see that even during the automobile- and youth-dominated 1950s, the market for bicycles aimed at serious, adult riders still had some momentum. It might have been a relatively small market in those times, but it was not entirely lost.