August Rides, and Sturmey Archer Shifter Talk

Here we have a few photos from this week. I rode the 1950 Schwinn Superior and the 1947 Schwinn Continental. 

 

The Continental had to be pulled from the basement for its first ride of the season. Refreshing these bikes is not a particularly onerous task if they have been stored reasonably well. These bikes are pretty low maintenance: dust, oil in a few places, basic safety check, air-up the tires, and go. If you have battery lights, check the batteries too...

The early post-war Continental is a definite step up over the Superior in terms of quality (the opposite of the later, derailleur era bikes). The frame is lighter, but the better rims on the Continental make a big difference (stainless vs chromed steel). 

 

The Superior is a good bike, but in terms of equipment, is closer to the New World than the Continental. It's nice to have at least one example of each model...

 

 I am occasionally asked whether the top-tube "quadrant" shifter on the older bikes is difficult to use, versus the more-familiar handlebar shifter. The top tube shifter is not especially difficult to use if it is in good working order. The flat spring will tend to "find" the peg holes and set the bike into gear. Most of the problems with top tube shifters that people report are the result of worn shifter pegs, worn shifter springs, or improperly adjusted cables. The handlebar shifter is a bit easier and faster to use because your hand stays on or near the handle bars. But a properly set up top tube shifter works quite well and just takes a couple short rides to get used to.

The other question I am sometimes asked is about the "odd" position of pre-1960 handlebar shifters, which is to say "upside down". Most riders today are familiar with twist grip shifters, brifters, or prominent handlebar shifters that stick up. 

Why would anyone want a shifter set downward like you see in the photo above? As strange as it sounds, this position is actually "faster" and more convenient to use than the more-familiar shifters that stand up above the handlebar. With this old-style, low position, you can shifter with a flick of your finger and never have to move your hand from the grip. The brake lever stays in close reach as you shift, in case something runs into the road in front of you. I will admit the first bike I had with this style of shifter, many years ago, felt odd to me. But once you are used to this low position shifter, it will become second nature to you. 

Some people like the higher, standing shifter because they can see what gear they are in at a glance. But the fact is that once you become used to the bike and your riding cadence, you will know what gear you are in just based on the feel and speed of the bike. There's also the steady "click" sound the AW hub makes in Normal (2) and High (3) gears. 

Hard to believe it is already August. Keep the rides coming... 

 

 

Cleaning and Stocking Parts

 I wrote previously about "smart stocking", which is the practice of buying and stocking the spares you are most likely to need. There's certainly a line between hoarding unnecessary items and targeting your spare parts stock to those items that always seem missing or damaged on your new project...

 

Here is another round of parts: good fenders and brakes for a 1940s-50s Raleigh, and a mixture of Schwinn bottom bracket parts. I'll find that often you need that nice, spare fender to substitute a missing piece, or to replace a rusted, worn, or abused bottom bracket or brake part on a project bike. I'm trying to take in fewer projects these days, but it's nice to have the parts when I need them.

My process for cleaning and storing the parts is simple. First, I inspect the parts and decide if they need cleaning. Small, plated parts are cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner mixture of Simple Green and Warm water. Sometimes a little purple degreaser is added if the parts are particularly dirty. Vintage painted parts are gently cleaned with an old tooth brush and some Dawn Powerwash or some Simple Green/water mixture. 

Rust is then addressed if it is a problem. Chrome plated parts may be put in Evaporust if rusty enough. Otherwise, they are cleaned with a brass wire brush and WD40. Painted parts are gently cleaned with 0000 steel wool and WD40. 

Storing the parts is also simple. Small and medium parts are placed in ziplock bags with a little WD40 to deter moisture and rust while in storage. The bags are labeled and put in metal tins or plastic tubs with similar parts. Large parts are labeled with a little masking tape and put in a large, plastic storage tub with similar parts. They may receive a light rub-down with WD40 to deter rust while in storage. 

Keep everything you store dry and out of the dampness if you store in your basement or garage. I especially like plastic or wooden storage pallets to keep the tubs of parts up and out of the water. Each large storage tub has a masking tape label on the side with a list of the parts in the tub. I prefer clear plastic tubs over opaque ones so I can see what's inside. 

My favorite sources for parts:

• The CABE/BikeForums websites
• Ebay
• Facebook Marketplace
• Talking to other collectors 

I've had less luck with Craigslist for parts. I haven't used some of the other sites, such as "OfferUp". 

Don't underestimate the power of conversation. Sometimes just talking to another collector, you'll learn they're looking to sell a bike or parts that you want or need. Don't be afraid to make a reasonable offer or keep talking to see if there's potentially a chance to buy or sell something at hand. Sometimes the best stuff changes hands starting by word-of-mouth. 

 

Humid Rides...

 

Not much in the way of heavy-duty heat here lately, but plenty of humidity. I guess it's that time of year... I'll put up a few photos of the 1948 Raleigh Sports Tourist and the 1950 Schwinn Superior. They both ride nicely. The Sports Tourist is a little heavier with its chain case and dynohub system, but no complaints about either bike. 

I've probably written this before, but chain cases are great looking and great from a collector standpoint, not so much from a mechanic's standpoint. They're a pain to get "just right" so nothing rattles or rubs. This one is a good one: no real dents and very straight. It has all the covers, sliders, etc. I still prefer a hockey stick style chain guard for riding and repair purposes. But the full chain case sure does look the part...

 

 The Superior has a more American flavor to it: lots of chrome, heavy gooseneck stem, louder paint scheme and decals... 

The Superior has a 22-ish inch frame, versus the 23-inch of the Raleigh. I am 5ft 8in or so tall, with long legs for my height. I can ride either frame comfortably, though perhaps the 23 is a little better fit. 

One trick with the smaller frame is to use a better seat post and a little longer stem to get the bars and saddle into place. BMX seat posts are a good source of longer, stronger posts for these welded Schwinn frames. This is a Cr-Mo post that is quite long. The taller "AS" razor stem also helps get those bars into place and more adjustment range. I hate a bike with too much or too little reach to the handlebars. For whatever reason it's among the first things I notice riding a bike. I hate feeling like I'm straining to reach the bars especially... So a taller stem and a little more range of adjustment is in order on these 22-inch frames. 

You can only do so much though with the stem and seat post. If you're 6ft 3in tall, a 22-inch frame on 26-inch wheels will not cut it. Then you would need the taller frame. But if you're at the edge of the frame size in terms of fit, the stem or seat post can make the difference in getting comfortable.

I notice the days are starting to get a bit shorter again... too bad. Keep on riding. 

1936 Raleigh Mini Catalogue - Adaptation to the US Market

I recently had a chance to scan in an interesting consumer mini-catalogue from Raleigh. This is a 1936 consumer mini catalogue showing the various models and specifications of Raleigh bikes for that year. What is interesting about this particular booklet is the that it was specifically adapted for use in the USA.

 

 

This booklet shows that by 1936, Raleigh had expanded outside of Boston and into New York City. East Coast cities like NYC and Boston were ideal places for Raleigh, given their proximity to Atlantic ports, large populations, multiple universities and colleges, and bike shops with the expertise to deal with English-made bicycles.

 

Of particular interest in this catalogue, the models offered by the Raleigh Cycle Agency are marked with dollar currency stamps. The English money entries are blank. This catalogue shows the particular models this shop was selling at this particular time with the dollar stamps, though they undoubtedly sold different models at different times and during different years. The variety of models offered was much more limited in the USA than in England. 

 

 This catalogue was originally a British offering adapted for American usage. It does not appear to have been a dedicated booklet for the US market, as some of the Raleigh USA Boston brochures and catalogues were in the 1930s. 

These bicycles were expensive in their day. For example, the Sports "C" Tourist above was $55.00 at this particular shop in 1936. Using US Government inflation statistics, this would be about $1,330 today. The Tourist rod brake model was $48.75 then, which is about $1,180 in today's money. 

Looking back at the 1935 California Services catalogue from my previous entry, we find the Raleigh was a bit more expensive in some cases, but close in others. The basic Royal Enfield roadster sold for $40.00, versus $45.00 for the Raleigh (about $120 difference today). Royal Enfield's smaller roadster was $42.50, very close to the Raleigh Dawn's price at $42.25. 

 

 Parts were also available, including a small array of Sturmey Archer hubs. The choices were more limited in the USA than in England, but at least some hubs were offered.

 In these early days, English-style, modern "lightweight bikes" were somewhat exotic machines in the USA: costly, available from East Coast city shops/dealers, and not available in all parts of the USA. The post-war era would change all that, with the influx of English bikes in the latter half of the 1940s.

A Window into Early Modern Bicycles in the USA: 1935

I recently purchased a wonderful catalogue from 1935 from a company known as "California Service Inc.". The company had a shop on Long Island, New York, and apparently focused on quality bicycles for adults. 

I've written in the past about the arrival of the early "modern" lightweight bicycle in America in the 1930s. From the 1910s through the early 1930s, bicycles in the US market tended to be aimed at children and teens. The adult bicycles that were made and sold in the US tended to be aimed at couriers (such as Western Union) or dedicated racers (tending to have fixed gears or single-speeds, and wooden or wood-clad rims). 

In the early 1930s, a few companies began importing English-made bicycles to the USA, exposing Americans for the first time to what we would consider the "modern" bicycles: diamond and step-over frames with steel rims, clincher or wire bead tires with inner tubes, rod or caliper hand brakes, and multi-speed gear or hub options. American manufacturers fought to catch up to the imports in the second half of the 1930s with models such as the Westfield/Columbia Sports Tourist and the Schwinn New World.

This catalogue gives us a window into the state of affairs for adult bicycles in the USA in 1935. At that time Raleigh (through Hamilton Osgood's firm in Boston), BSA, Royal Enfield, Aberdale, and Hercules Cycle/Motor were exporting bikes from the England to the USA. The numbers of these bicycles were tiny compared to the youth-oriented balloon tire bikes made in the USA. 

 

California Service focused their sales on Royal Enfield and, to a lesser extent, Aberdale bicycles. The Royal Enfield offerings were much like the Raleigh offerings from around that time. Models fell into three basic categories: sporty drop bar bikes, all-purpose cable brake bikes, and heavy-duty rod brake roadsters. 

 The offerings from Royal Enfield were even a bit more extensive than those of Raleigh in 1935, and included tandems and even a tradesman's basket bike.

 California Service evidently went beyond just dealing in bicycles. They also sold high-end tubing, forks, lugs, and the other components of bicycle construction. Interestingly, this included hiduminium alloy parts and Reynolds tubing, exotic stuff for 1935.

 All manner of hub could also be purchased: drum brakes, high-flange hubs, coaster brakes, multi-gear hubs and components, and the fittings to go therewith. 

 Handlebars and stems also were available. The venerable Sturmey Archer Model K three speed could be purchased.

 Saddles, tires, pumps, and other accessories were available. There were even child carriers if you wanted to commute or go grocery shopping and carry your child with you in the British and Dutch fashion.

 Saddle bags, rear racks, and a wide variety of tires could be bought. Saddles included both leather typs and mattress saddles.

 Even shop tools could be purchased. 

 California Service in Long Island had a key advantage: access to both British-made products and the New York City area market. A family-owned bike shop in the midwest at the time might feature only a few, domestically-produced bicycles for the youth market. But being on the east coast of the USA near a major city and port, California Service would have been on the cutting edge of bicycles, parts, accessories, and tools for the adult rider who wanted to tour, commute, or just have a bicycle for recreation. The offerings in this catalogue probably seem kind of pedestrian compared to the extensive offerings in the British catalogues of the day, but this would have been a standout in the US bike market of that time. 

Conclusion

In this catalogue, along with the 1934 Raleigh Brochure, we again see proof that the adult bicycle was not "dead" in the USA in the middle 1930s. Even though the American manufacturers had not yet responded to the early British imports, quality bicycles with multiple gears and hand brakes were available to adults who wanted to cycle in the USA. 

This California Service catalogue is all the more interesting because it offers something to both the consumer and the retailer: a source of components, accessories, tools, and complete bicycles from Royal Enfield and Aberdale. The retailer-oriented sales are especially interesting because they go beyond the shorter, consumer-oriented brochure that Raleigh produced in 1934. 

Five years after this catalogue, on the eve of the Second World War, American manufacturers would be trying to compete with the imports. But this 1935 catalogue and the 1934 Raleigh brochure give us a window into the early days of "modern", quality bicycles in the USA. 

 

Summer Riding; Dealing with Scarcity

A few photos from one of my rides this week. I took a trip down to the local nature preserve. We are very fortunate to have a beautiful, large nature preserve in our town. The roads in the area are a mixed bag: some are in decent repair, but a couple of them... not so good. Keeping your tires properly filled and keeping your wheels in good repair are a "must" on some of these roads. 

 

The bike on this ride is my 1957 Schwinn Traveler. It's a good bike: a bit heavy (as the Schwinn Travelers often are), but comfortable and steady. Everything is in good working order. The alloy shell 1957 Sturmey Archer AW ticks right along.

 We've had some good weather recently, at least for July. The days have been warm but not hot, and the evenings are calm and cool.

 

The birds seem to be enjoying the weather too...

On a somewhat more pessimistic note, it appears that, at least for now, white wall Kenda K23 tires for Schwinn three speed bikes (597mm bead seat, not the more common 590mm the English used) are out-of-stock. I see one or two sellers selling older stocks at very inflated prices (close to $100 per set with shipping included). The blackwall K23 is still commonly available, which is a plus. Tan wall is also available, though most of my Schwinn bikes pre-date Schwinn's use of tan walls on the lightweights. My experience is the blackwall tires last a bit longer than the whitewalls, but they all eventually need replacing. 

I've said it before, but will say it again: I wish Schwalbe or Michelin would make a tire in this Schwinn 597mm size. A Michelin World Tour would be perfect: affordable for casual riders, decent quality, and traditional in appearance. So far though, we just have the Kendas... we will have to make-do. Hopefully whitewalls will be generally available again, alongside the blackwall tires, soon, at halfway reasonable prices.

One a related note, while wandering through old Schwinn catalogues the other day, I noticed that they were actually relatively late to adopt whitewall tires as standard on their three speed bikes. The catalogues up through 1958 show blackwalls as standard on the Traveler. The start of the "third generation" Traveler in 1959 seems to be when whitewalls became standard. Of course, you could get whitewalls at the bike shop if you wanted to spiff up your Traveler even before 1959. It seems the Racer always had blackwall tires standard, based on the catalogues. Eventually the Deluxe Racer (replacing the Traveler) got whitewalls in the later 1960s. I'll update the Schwinn Traveler guidebook page...

 

 

Into the Heart of Summer

 

Summer is in full swing, with long days and hot weather. Temperatures are well into the 90s this week, with plenty of humidity. The summer sports are also going right along: plenty of kayakers, hikers, bicyclists, and golfers out and about when I take my rides in the evening. 

 

This 1960 Schwinn Traveler needed a headset adjustment and then was ready to hit the road again. The job was accomplished in just a couple of minutes, and then out for an evening ride. I love the green and the ornate graphics on this frame.  

The nice part about riding in a wooded area  is that the temperature is a bit cooler during these hot days. The shade is very much appreciated.

 

I also need to give to appreciation to the road crews who fix all the cracks and potholes in the roads here. Winters are hard on our roads and we have plenty of potholes that form each spring. One of the roads where I ride was being repaired last evening. I miss the trip down there, but I do appreciate having fresh pavement instead of numerous potholes in that area. These crews work in hot, difficult conditions during the summer. 

 

 

Not a promising place to lean your bike...

This time of year, it is important to watch where you park alongside the roads here. Above is trouble... don't go into these three-leaved menaces.

 

It is nice to find an area to pull off the road and park, both out of the woods and out of the road... 

 

 

Summer Riding - Schwinn Superior and Dealing with Thunderstorms

 

1950 Schwinn Superior

We're into the summer weather: relatively warm and humid, with the daily chance for thunderstorms. There is plenty of riding to be done, but riding this time of year means staying aware of the weather. I had the 1950 Schwinn Superior out this week. I love the color of this bike...

If you own a smartphone, one thing you can do is load a weather application and keep it on "alert" as you ride. I use WeatherBug, but there are other programs that let you do this. I have my phone set up to make a loud "chirp" sound when lightening is detected within a certain distance. I also have a quick-access icon to the weather radar showing storm activity in the area. It's important to have these tools this time of year because thunderstorms can develop quickly.

Trouble brewing...

Case-in-point is a powerful storm that struck near here last weekend. Over the course of about 15 minutes, the weather rapidly deteriorated and a powerful thunderstorm struck. This storm produced large hail, very strong straight-line winds, and extremely heavy rain. The weather reports say it was a "microburst" storm. Numerous trees were knocked over and a great deal of property damage resulted in the area where the storm hit. You don't want to be out on a bike when that happens, and it can happen rapidly.

 I love riding during the long, warm evenings of the summer. But doing that means keeping up with the weather. I recommend you keep a smartphone with you in the saddle bag and a reliable weather application/radar on "alert".

The Limits of Discussion - Chronic "Slow-Burn" Toxic Behavior

Two straight days of rain, so no riding yet this week. The weather will soon be clearing. Hopefully that means a return to the road...

 I decided recently to reflect on the state of internet discussion today. Old bikes are one subject, but perhaps this can apply to any subject today where we have privately-managed online discussion. 

There is a great deal in the media about increasing toxicity online. I can't say that I disagree, though perhaps some level of toxicity has always been there. What has increased is the frequency and proliferation of toxic behavior. I highlight today "slow burn toxicity" or "chronic toxic behavior". 

This kind of behavior isn't nasty enough to get the user banned outright - at least right away - but it works a constant drip-drip of poison, eventually driving other people out of the discussion or out of the discussion forum entirely. Usually this takes the form of snide remarks, chronic sarcasm, back-handed compliments, or low-level but constant antagonism. This is the kind of behavior where the discussion will go a number of pages and finally a moderator or website owner steps in and says "That's enough!". 

Were the toxicity very strong: a nasty, direct insult, for example, then the offender would be banned straight off. 

The problem with this slow-burn toxic behavior is that eventually good contributors and regular people say, "this isn't worth it...", and leave the discussion or the website entirely. New users are taken aback by a low-level, toxic reception or snarky greetings. They also leave. The slow-burn offender might be chastised or even suspended, but he or she eventually comes back and reverts to his or her old ways. Even worse, the offender may resort to some justification or excuse for the behavior. If this kind of slow-burn toxicity becomes endemic, eventually only the toxic people are left. The moderators and owners of the website then wonder why the better contributors have left. 

The solution, I think, is to ban repeat offenders after the behavior reaches a tipping point. If a moderator or site owner finds the person is "one of the usual suspects", then it is time to reconsider whether this person is helping the discussion or whether they are harming the entire endeavor. One would not ban a one-off offense or someone "having a bad day", which is understandable. But when the same half-dozen people are allowed to gradually drive out others, then the ban is the way to go. If the person tries to come back under an alias to restart his or her toxic behavior, then that is an instant ban for trying to circumvent the rules.

I don't take this opinion lightly, and I don't like the idea of banning people or squelching discussion. But sometimes when you see the locked thread or locked discussion icon on the screen, you just know who the usual suspects are. Your discussion board, website, area, etc. is yours to maintain and it is a privilege - not a right - to participate in it. When you have "usual suspects", you have a problem that needs to be addressed. That has been my experience of 28+ years consistently being involved in internet discussions.

4th of July - 250th Anniversary, and American-made Three Speed Bikes

 A Happy 4th of July, and a 250th one at that. The weather here is quite hot, which is fitting for summer time. Appropriately, I have been enjoying rides on these American-made, Schwinn three speed bikes this week.

1957 Schwinn Traveler

 

1960 Schwinn Traveler