Friday, May 22, 2026

"They Don't Build Them Like They Used To" - Quality Control, Fit, and Finish in Vintage Bicycles

 The vintage bicycle enthusiast (or any antiques enthusiast) will often be heard saying, "they don't build them like they used to." In some ways, that is true. Old production methods often involved a greater degree of skilled labor, hand fitting, and final inspection by someone knowledgeable about the product. 

But not all vintage products were created equal. Some products were built for a particular price point, cutting corners on final fitting, relying on spot welds instead of proper brazing/welding, concealing mistakes with shiny paint, or trying to make up for defects with rubbish accessories. 

Other products were of a more premium type, showing carefully developed manufacturing methods, skilled fitting, and good quality control. 

Even in the premium products we sometimes find corners cut. I wrote previously about how some Schwinn frames built during World War II involved reduced final finishing so the rest of the factory could be devoted to meeting wartime production requirements for battlefield goods. 

But cutting corners in some places was not limit to wartime. 


 

Let's take this very, very nice 1949-50 Schwinn New World as an example. This bike was not 100% original as I found it, but it also shows no signs of abuse. In fact, the bearing surfaces all show minimal mileage. 


 

Disassembling and cleaning the bike, I find somewhat minimal brazing of the seat stays around the seat cluster, and messy brazing of the down tube to the bottom bracket. 

 


A fully finished braze joint is uniform and smooth all the way around, and of a semi-conical shape (it is shaped a bit like a volcano). This down tube joint shows almost no smoothing and is less than uniform. We can't blame a prior owner for this one though - it came from the factory this way! No one is perfect... 

I  believe on the better-made bikes, quality control has actually become more uniform compared to many years ago. Computer-aided production has helped prevent some of the mistakes and cut corners of the past. This is not to defend lesser, newer products though. There are plenty of cheap, junky new bikes out there. 

Unless mistakes on these old bikes reduce the safety or function of the bike, I would not worry about them. Braze joints were a hand-built thing, so they will all vary a little. So long as your bike has not been abused and the safety and function are intact, I'd gladly ride it. After all, they were meant to be ridden... 

Friday, May 15, 2026

Enjoying the Details of Three Speed Bikes

Sometimes I am asked about focusing on a particular type of vintage bike rather than collecting all different kinds. I focus on three speed bikes because I enjoy them. I enjoy fixing them and riding them. I also enjoy discussing them. But I also enjoy the details, the different styles of bike within the family traditional utility and sporting bikes. 

Below are my classifications of traditional three speed type bikes. They are meant as a "10,000 foot view" of these bikes. There are certainly exceptions to each category, but I find these are helpful in talking with people who are new to this style of bicycle. 

 


British School of Design: Traditional and Functional

The traditional, British style tends to be on the conservative side, especially on bikes made prior to 1950. The bikes were built with a pragmatic approach: accessories that added functionality to a bike in dealing with adverse weather or dark conditions. The bikes tend to (though not always) have traditional colors: blacks, dark greens, dark blues, and maroon type colors. 

 

1940s Raleigh chaincase - old school design

Decoration often involved Victorian or Edwardian style pin stripes and box stripes. The flash of white on the rear fender, a classic characteristic of these bikes, was actually to comply with a road safety law and not just as a matter of style. Certainly there are "flashy" English roadsters and utility bikes, particularly during the 1950s when American influences began to creep into some models. 

 

1970 Raleigh DL-1: basically a piece of pre-WWII technology

But the English school was very much the originator of what we think of when we consider three speed bikes. 

 


 

 

Low Countries and Denmark: European Pragmatism and Daily Commuters

The Netherlands, Belgium, and Denmark represent another school of design. They share many similarities with English functionalism, but they add a continental twist. These countries have held onto daily commuter features  such as generator sets, fully-enclosed chain cases, and drum brakes. Older models in this school tend to have large frames, large wheels, and single-speed gears. 

A Dutch commuter - all the accessories needed for daily work

Internal gear hubs later became more popular. These bikes have some unique features such as rear fender coat/skirt guards, high stems and handlebars, integrated generator light systems, frame locks, and various other features required by regional safety laws. Eventually, modern materials fused with traditional features: full chain cases made of plastic, plastic coat/skirt guards, alloy rims and lightened drum brakes, etc. This school of design focuses heavily on the bike as an everyday utility object and daily commuter. It's even common to see magnet fishermen pulling these bikes out of canals and estuaries.  

 

 

Schwinn Traveler - mid-century American style

U.S.A.: Automotive Influences and Flashier Styles

The English-style, three speed bike first arrived in the USA in quantity in the 1930s. Hercules, BSA, and Raleigh gradually grew their market presence from 1933 onward. American-made bikes of this kind began to appear, at least in some quantity, in the late 1930s. Initially, the American-made bikes were similar to English "light roadsters" with cable brakes, diamond or step-over frames, and 26-inch wheels.

 


 After WWII, automotive style became more important: fins on fenders and chainguards, art deco or streamliner styling, bright colors (often with two-stage aluminum paints), large amounts of brightwork made from chrome or stainless steel, etc. 

 


Americans have loved their automobiles going back to the Model T Ford (or even earlier), so when "lightweight" bikes became more popular in the late 1940s, automotive influences quickly mixed in. American bike technology such as one-piece cranks and coaster brakes are common. The American three speed bike, particularly after 1945, is defined by its extroverted style and presence. 

 

Stainless front fender "fin" on a Schwinn Traveler

Nothing makes a statement like a full set of polished, stainless steel fenders with a fin on the front... 

 

  

French Bikes: Idiosyncratic Standards and Artistic Designs

French bikes cover a wide range. The French used a separate set of engineering standards than did the British, Dutch, or Americans. These bikes range from English-like commuters to ornate bikes with wild pain schemes, complicated lugs, and specialized parts. These can be beautiful bicycles, but be careful of one-off parts and weird threading standards...

 

A very classy, artistically-inclined Singer bike
 

These bikes run the range from basic, to bespoke and handmade designs. These bikes often are works of art exhibiting art deco designs and hammered fenders. Aluminum and stainless steel are commonly worked into these bikes. The French preferred the derailleur over the internal gear hub, but some of the bikes have internal gear hubs.

 

 

Africa and Asia: Budget/Value-Oriented Bikes

African and Asian bikes tend to be very traditional, of British style, but also less expensive and aimed at simply staying on the road. Simple mechanical features are the defining features: single-speed rear hubs, steel parts, and parts made as inexpensively as possible. Colors are usually traditional and done in basic coats without any excess. 

Flying Pigeon - the most-produced bicycle of all time

The goal is to provide working, durable transportation as cheaply as possible. Keeping the bike on the road means keeping the family or business running. These bikes are gradually being replaced in Africa and Asia with more modern ones. I previously posted an old article on utility bikes operating in mainland China (once known as the kingdom of bicycles).  Huge numbers of Flying Pigeons have been produced since the beginning of its run...

 


There are other styles out there, but these are the major ones a person is likely to encounter "in the wild". Each has its attractive points and its challenges.

 


 

Friday, May 8, 2026

A Closing Tribute to Acorn Saddlebags

 

Acorn saddlebag on a 1948 Raleigh

Acorn bags, an American company that built high-quality canvas and leather saddlebags for bicycles, is closing down. I am told the owners are ready to move on in life to other things, so the company is closing.

Close-up of a brown Acorn small saddlebag - very nice work 

 

Acorn saddlebag on a 1947 Schwinn

Acorn made affordable, high-quality bags. Their small saddlebag retailed for under $100, about half the price of boutique, luxury saddlebags in the same size. The price was comparable to a Carradice (another respected bag maker), though the Acorn bags tended to be a little more luxurious compared to the more spartan Carradice.  

Flap and zipper opening on an Acorn saddlebag

Close up of an Acorn small saddlebag on a WWII era Schwinn

Acorn small saddlebag on a 1940 Schwinn

I bought an Acorn bag as a one-off experiment several years ago. I had long been happy with my Carradice bags and my Banjo Brothers bags. My Carradice bags were the "higher-end" bags on my bikes, while the Banjo Brothers bags were more compact and basic. When I received the Acorn bag, I was very impressed by how much quality could be squeezed into the roughly $75 price tag.  

Acorn saddlebag on a 1970 Raleigh DL-1 roadster

I liked the Acorn small saddlebag so much, I bought several more over the years. Acorn's business model was to produce bags in batches, sell them, then make another batch. The website often showed they were sold out. A notice would come in a few days before the next batch went on sale. I made it a point to buy one each time a batch would be made. I bought both their black and brown canvas bags.

Acorn small saddlebag on a 1947 Raleigh Model 35 touring bike

I'm glad I stocked up on the bags before the company went out of business. They should serve nicely for me in the future. I am told the tools and supplies of the company are for sale. Hopefully an entrepreneurial buyer will get those and pick up where Acorn left off. 

 

Brown Acorn saddlebag on a 1953 Raleigh



Wednesday, May 6, 2026

Spring Ride: 1948 Raleigh Sports Tourist

 


We finally had a jolt of warm weather for the first couple days this week. I fiddled a bit with the 1948 Raleigh's seat position, raising it a bit to a position that I like better. 


This bike is a pleasant rider, though it certainly feels more like a utility/commuter bike than a sporty bike. The chain case, dynohub, and various accessories make this a fairly heavy bike. It helps to lower the gearing by installing a 22-tooth rear cog. That is the maximum that will comfortably fit inside the chain case. I've tried 24-tooth cogs in chain cases in the past, but they never fit very well, at least not well enough to keep the chain from rubbing.


 

I may add a somewhat bigger bag-mount LED light for safety reasons. The incandescent tail light works, and I do have an LED bag light already, but it seems like drivers today are very distracted (or aggressive). A larger bag light might give a little more indication I'm a slow-moving vehicle near the side of the road. 


The leaves are really starting to appear now. It's good to see a return to warmer weather.



Tuesday, May 5, 2026

Spring Ride - 1940 Schwinn New World

 


The wearing-in period of the 1940 New World continues. I raised the seat post maybe 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch. Handlebars stayed put for the time being. I like them a little above the saddle level. My trips on this bike will be of the short or medium length. I have other bikes for longer rides. The bike is just now leaving that stage of rides where time is spent fiddling with the fit, setting up lights, etc.

 The bike is relatively light, being as basic as it is. It doesn't even have a kickstand. The closest bike in concept that I have is my 1947 Raleigh Model 35, though that is even more basic (the Raleigh doesn't even have a chain guard). Of the two, the 1947 Raleigh has a more solid feel to the frame and rides a little better. I enjoy both bikes. 

What is surprising is how noticeably different the bike feels than post-war New World, Traveler, etc. Those are heavier but not nearly as flexible feeling as this bike. They have a more solid feel, especially climbing a steep hill or going over bumps. So many things on this bike have a spindly quality: the seat stays, fender stays, glass reflector, small-diameter frame tubes, etc. The bike doesn't have that heavy, over-built feel of the post-war New World frames (both for better and for worse).


Overall, this bike is a good example of a light, spindly, simple American-made lightweight touring bike from before WWII. The "modern" lightweight bike was still in its early years in 1940 in the United States. Britain had a much longer history of diamond frame, relatively modern bicycles for sport, touring, and utility purposes. So it's nice to have an example of an "early", American-made lightweight with a 23-inch frame.

Friday, May 1, 2026

1940 Schwinn New World

 


The second project completed over the winter is this 1940 Schwinn New World three speed bike. This bike has the typical early Schwinn three speed features: fillet brazed frame, Schwinn-built brake calipers and levers, AS&Co. cottered cranks, wire fender braces, red glass rear reflector.

 


The bike has an unusual, 23-inch frame on the usual 26-inch wheels. These early tall-frame men's bikes are difficult to find today. 

 


Saddle is a Brook B67 "antique" style - dark brown with lace-up sides. Tires are Kendas with Schwalbe Tubes. Saddle bag is an Acorn brand (very nice, made in USA).  



This kind of a "noodle frame". It flexes a fair bit when climbing or in tight turns. That is somewhat typical of early, tall frame New Worlds. These bikes have pencil-thin seat stays and relatively light-duty rear dropouts. 


These early bikes are also known for their glass rear reflectors. They are somewhat fragile, but they add some character to the bike. 


Overall, this bike gives a good picture of the earliest days of modern, American-made three speed "lightweight" touring bikes. The bike is relatively light in weight and the frame has a hand-built quality to it. It is a pleasant rider, but not as robust or easy to repair as later bikes. 


 Pedals are the venerable Torrington #10 types. They are simple and robust, though a bit on the large and heavy side for a light weight bike. They were typical of the pedals used on American bikes of the late 1930s and early 1940s. I like them quite a lot, and enjoy that they have a local connection - they were made only a few miles away from my home.


The same goes for the spokes. The wheels are a set I built: later Schwinn S6 chrome steel rims, Torrington spokes, and a good hub set: 1939 Sturmey Archer AW rear three speed and a Schwinn script front hub.


Without further delay, here are the basic specs:

  • 23-inch fillet brazed steel frame
  • 26-inch (597 mm) wheels and tires
  • Sturmey Archer AW rear, dated 1939
  • Schwinn script front hub
  • Schwinn-built calipers and levers
  • AS&Co cottered crank set
  • Kenda tires, Kenda tubes
  • Kiley LED headlight, Ascher bag-mount LED tail light
  • Brooks B67 "antique finish" saddle
  • Acorn saddle bag
  • Spiral-dome bell


 

 

Thursday, April 30, 2026

Spring Rides - 1964 Schwinn Traveler

 


Not much to report from the past couple rides. The 1964 Schwinn Traveler is always a good rider. People who are new to vintage bikes often gravitate to the oldest bike in a collection or to rarer bikes. But the oldest and rarest bike is not necessarily the most pleasant riding. 


This 1964 Traveler is not the oldest bike I have and it is certainly not the oldest 3-speed bike out there (not even close). But it is a very comfortable, reliable rider. It's also in nice shape and an attractive machine. I like the understated graphics and deep, black paint.


 



 

Tuesday, April 28, 2026

1948 Raleigh Sports Tourist - Model 23

Good weather to start this week, but that is supposed to last only a couple of days. The lawn mowers are back out and about. I love the smell of freshly cut grass... 

 


Here is one of the bikes I re-built over the winter - a 1948 Raleigh Sports Tourist. This bike combines the Sports frame, 26 inch wheels, and cable brakes with the "Tourist" elements of a chain case, front dynohub, and light set.  The bike appears as "Model 23" in the catalogue.

 

The Model 23 Sports Tourist is very much a "commuter" type bike. It is better-equipped than the basic Model 35 budget Sports, or even the moderately-equipped Sports Light Roadster (Model 22). 

 

This bike is on the heavy side to be a "road" or a "sporty" type bike. It offered the commuter a weather-resistant bicycle that could be ridden to work or class in regular clothing. This bike is aimed at the short or medium length trip to work, class, shop, or the post office.  

 


The bike was available with the old-style, long-arm "trigger"/"flick" shifter, or  the top tube "quadrant" style shifter. For now, I have a good, old quadrant on the bike. I may try converting it to a refurbished long-arm trigger shifter in the future, but for now the quadrant is there and gives good shifting.


 

One of the challenges of these bikes are the old, cloth-covered cable housings. These housings love to dry out and crack. If you're lucky, the are simple, small cracks where the cables take a turn. If you're unlucky, the housing will begin to fray, leaving a mess. If the covers are particularly bad, I replace the whole cable assembly with something newer. But if they can be saved, I use black-colored heat shrink (available online) to bandage the larger cracks. The sections on the bike where you see larger cable covers are the heat shrink "bandages" on the covers. They blend in reasonably well, though they do make the cover look a bit bigger in those areas.


Raleigh pattern cables are fixed-length and not meant to be disassembled. I lubricate them by hanging them up and dropping some Tri-Flow lubricant down the cable cores. Tri-Flow is a thin oil with a teflon component. It helps lubricate old brake cables that need to stay intact.  


This bike has the old-style Sports lamp bracket on the handle bar stem and the old-style, glass lens headlight. The tail light is a bit later type, the original being totally missing when I got the bike. 


 The lighting is still the old-style, incandescent type. I prefer LED lights because they give you the most lighting you can squeeze out of the low-output GH6 hub. But given the age of this bike and the very old-style, glass lens headlight, I stuck with original lighting. This bike will not be ridden at night. 


The headbadge is the original, old-style Raleigh type. It has some wear on it. I suspect the bike may have had a front basket for awhile, which may have rubbed a bit on the lower part of the badge.  


When I cleaned the mechanical areas and bearing surfaces, I found this bike probably did not have many miles on it... or else it was very well-maintained. The bearing surfaces were smooth, with very little wear. 


There are still a few things to consider on this bike. The 1947-48 catalogue shows this bike's standard shifter as the old-style, long-arm shifter, with a cloth-covered shifter cable. I may do that eventually. The top tube quadrant was an option for a more traditional set up. The quadrant is lower-maintenance and easier to fit. (See my article on refurbishing the finicky, early flick shifters). Going to the flick shifter will also mean finding a length of good, cloth-covered shifter cable (not easy). I probably have some of that in a bin somewhere around here... We will see if I make the return to catalogue "standard"...


 

I also need to play a bit with the saddle height. I have the bike set up as an upright commuter, with the bars a bit higher than the saddle. I think that works well for this bike, but I may need to raise the saddle just a bit. I can see why these bikes were such popular machines for the short or medium length trip to the office or college campus. It would make a very comfortable commuter. I find my more spartan Raleigh 35 better for longer trips over the road or in hilly country. 


Without further delays, here are the specs:

  • 23-inch men's frame
  • 26 x 1 3/8 wheels with Westrick Raleigh Pattern rims and stainless "R"-stamp Raleigh spokes
  • Michelin World Tour tires, Schwalbe tubes 
  • 1948 Sturmey Archer AW rear hub
  • 1947 Sturmey Archer GH6 front hub ("black side", pre-1951 type)
  • Original, cloth-covered cable housings
  • Original chain case with all the various sliders, clips, etc. 
  • Incandescent bulb lighting - I did not convert this bike to LED. 
  • Brooks B66 saddle
  • Raleigh industries pedals with "spurs"
  • 48-tooth chainring, 22-tooth rear cog 
  • Acorn saddle bag 
  • Lucas bell