Ultrasonic Cleaners - A Few Tips

 

Modern, ultrasonic cleaners offer the ability to clean parts using vibration, water, and heat to clean and de-grease parts. This kind of work used to be completed with chemicals such as paint thinner, mineral spirits, etc. and scrubbing. Ultrasonic cleaners allow you to use a water-based, less toxic cleaner and let the machine to more of the work. You'll still have to do a little scrubbing and drying by hand, but the machine does a lot of the cleaning work.

I've used ultrasonic cleaners for bike parts for about 15 years now. I started with a small machine made by Lyman and eventually moved to a pair of larger machines made by Vevor. The Lyman was a good machine, but on the small side and limited to a 6-minute timer.  The Vevor machines I use are not bad: they have the features I like, though I will admit they're somewhat inexpensively built. The metal used is of a fairly thin gauge. But I have had good luck with them so far. There are probably many other brands that would work well. These machines allow you to put parts in to clean while you work on other tasks in the shop.

Here are a few pointers for working with ultrasonic cleaners:

• Get a machine with a long timer - preferably a 30-minute timer. Some ultrasonic cleaners look nice from the outside, but the timer only runs in 5 or 10 minute increments. For really dirty parts, you'll want to run it longer - probably 20 or more minutes. My cleaners have 30-minute timers and that has worked well. Sometimes it takes two or three 30-minute cycles if something is really dirty. 

•  Get a reasonably large machine. Small cleaners seem to be cost-effective, but you'll find they struggle to handle heavier cleaning loads. Also, you'll probably find you use more capacity than you think you will use at first. I have a 6 liter cleaner in my upstairs shop and a 10 liter in my basement shop. These are considered medium-sized cleaners. They will handle a completely dismantled Sturmey Archer AW hub (including the shell) in one fill, but just barely. It sounds like a lot, but once you start putting dirty parts into the basket, you'll find yourself using more space than you expected at first.

• Get a machine with easy-to-read settings and large-ish buttons. Garage and basement shops sometimes have iffy lighting. Large buttons and displays help you get the machine set up correctly.

• Get a machine with a good drain valve. Manual dumping works for small machines, but medium and larger machines should have a good, sturdy ball valve so you can drain the machine without having to lift and dump. It's also a plus if the valve has a threaded pipe end so you can directly pipe the water into a waste basin. 

• Get a machine with a good basket having rubber feet. The basket does more work than you think, especially when it's fully loaded with parts. Rubber feet help reduce wear against the tank bottom.

• Get a couple of good, mini-baskets to hang in the main basket. Small, wire mesh baskets are available to put inside the main basket. These hold small parts such as screws, spacers, etc. Get a couple sizes of these hanging, opening baskets so you can put small parts into the machine. The main basket is only for medium and lager parts.

• Get a machine with a heater and a thermometer. Heat makes a big difference in washing parts. Get a machine with a heater and a thermometer. You can custom set the heat level to the part you are cleaning.

• Get a machine with a sturdy, easy-to-access on-off switch. Some machines have large, flip switches on the back that make it easy to quickly see if the power is on to the machine, and easy to turn off in a hurry. 

• Follow the directions carefully. These machines need a certain minimum amount of water to function correctly. Make sure you know how much water you must add. It helps also if there is a max-fill line so you don't over-fill the machine. 

• Wipe-out the machine after each use. Very dirty parts will cause gunk to build up in the bottom of the machine. After draining, make sure you wipe out gunk on the bottom. Be careful - the machine may still be hot. 

• Work up a routine with your cleaning solution. After awhile, you'll get a feel for cleaning solutions that work. I use a mixture of water and Simple Green cleaner. I also spray parts with Dawn Power Wash dish soap and let them sit a few minutes before putting into the tank. You don't need harsh or toxic chemicals to wash. 

• Always shut down the machine fully when leaving it unattended for long periods. I don't recommend putting wash in and then going to the grocery or hardware store. Stay close by while the machine is working and on. If you have to leave, shut down the machine and return to work later. You don't want a fire or electrical problem while you are away. 

• Be careful of hot parts. Parts will be warm or even hot when they come out of the machine. Don't burn yourself on the parts or water. Do not use flammable chemicals in the cleaner. Stick with water and a household type cleaner such as dish soap, Simple Green, etc. A little citrus or purple de-greaser can be added to the mix for very dirty parts. Stick with water-based cleaners that are not too harsh to handle. Also, be careful of painted parts in the machine. Some paint finishes may become compromised by heat and cleaner. Check on the parts periodically to make sure they are not losing their finish.