I picked up this 1949 Raleigh Clubman from a fellow collector in Massachusetts a few weeks ago. The bike had already been gone over (15 - 20 years ago maybe?) but needed a refresh. So refresh it I did.
- Clean and re-pack or re-oil all bearings.
- Clean all chrome from any rust (there wasn't much).
- Clean and re-pin cranks.
- Disassemble and rebuild both hubs (rear needed a new axle and mounting nuts)
- Disassemble and rebuild shifter.
- Clean and reorganize electrical wiring.
- Clean and lubricate brake cables.
- Bandage brake cable housings with clear heat shrink as needed.
- Measure and make new shifter cable (brass tube and Bell Systems crimper method)
- Match and touch-up paint in some places.
- Clean, straighten, and re-build aluminum fenders.
- Add rear fender heron transfer.
- Add Brooks B67 saddle and Acorn canvas bag.
- New rim strips and tires.
- New brake pads.
- True wheels and tension spokes.
- Add Nitto swept back handlebars
- Add Gary Burgess alloy girder stem.
- Add MKS Sylvan touring pedals
- Repair cosmetic damage below bottom bracket from an over-tightened kickstand.
- Repair hole in front fender from a headlight someone added - rivet nut and leather washer as a "hood ornament".
- Add 22-tooth cog in back. Add new SRAM PC-1 chain.
Almost all of these tasks I've discussed before on this blog, so I see no reason to re-show them. None of this is particularly exciting work, but taken together, it helps revive this bike.
I chose the tourist/utility configuration because I find it so comfortable. I prefer it over drop bars. This bike did not have its original handlebars anyway, so why not run a nice set of Nitto swept back bars, which are very close the 22 inch Raleigh "larger" North Roads?
I'll leave a few notes on the project below, even if it's just so I can look them up again in case I have to work on it in the future.
- The original pedals are great - totally rebuildable and original to the bike. Unfortunately, they have tall end spikes that make them somewhat uncomfortable with a regular pair of sneakers. The pedals are still good, but the Sylvan works better if you're riding with regular sneakers.
- The original saddle is even still good (a narrow Brooks road type). I just find the B66/67 series more comfortable.
- The Nitto swept back bars are great for a bike like this. They're very, very close in dimensions to the old Raleigh 22 inch "larger" North Roads (note - Raleigh made both a smaller 20 inch and larger 22 inch North Road bar. They look very similar but have differing feels.)
- The paint can be matched on this bike using a mixture of Testor's Flat Beret Green and Testor's Flat Aluminum. The blend is roughly 50/50 for most of this bike, but varies a drop or two in each direction depending on the fading in different areas. But when you match it, it matches pretty nicely. Flecks of flat black can be added if needed to give a "weathered" look.
- The original paint is pretty fragile, as most of these old aluminum blend paints were.
- The bike came with a set of Schwalbe 26 x 1 1/4 club tires. I wish they still made these tires - they're very sporty compared to the Kenda. Unfortunately, the rubber around the wires on this set had deteriorated to the point they would not mount straight any longer.
- The original wing nuts and axle on the rear hub were marginal, and decided to give way on my test ride. Unfortunately, they waited to slip until I was in the next town over. Hence the replacement with a regular set of nuts and a new axle. The Mrs. had to come get me on that ride...
- Testor's Flat Aluminum matches the stock silver paint on the head lamp pretty well.
- I need to determine whether I want to run with a mud flap or not. Originally the bike would have had a front mudflap. I left the rivet-bolts longer there to mount a mudflap if I decide I want one later.
- The aluminum Dunlop Westrick rims are killer - very light and lively riding. They brake well too.
- The cosmetic damage underneath, near the bottom bracket is repaired using shaped JB Weld, then sanded and painted to match.
- (Note to self: The old style GH6 Dynohub on this bike goes on the LEFT side. A subsequent change moved them to the right side.)
- Gear ratio is a forgiving 46 front, 22 rear.
- The rear reflector has a neat "RI" inset into it. I didn't notice this at first.
Nice to see this one together! I'm using the Nitto B352 bars (in steel) on my Bianchi. the width is the same, but I thought yours had a bit more rise from the pics. After comparing, I think it's an illusion, as mine are partially wrapped https://wilsonhoyer.com/2023/07/30/my-bike-its-a-very-very-very-fine-bike/
ReplyDeleteAnyway, I was not aware Raleigh offered the wider version of the northroad pattern. I've only encountered the 20, and my 8 year old daughter finds them to be just right, as I have a set on her Trek Mystic (along with a Brooks Professional S). I've never found the narrower bars to be uncomfortable, per-se (the bend is just perfect), but the wider ones are just a bit comfier.
Stinks about the winged wheel nuts not working out. If they weren't Whitworth, you could just install a steel insert, and they'd be good forever.
That's a really nice Bianchi that looks like a comfortable set up. I like a steel frame over aluminum. Cro-Mo makes a particularly good frame if the angles are just a little relaxed. Nitto bars are among my favorites made today. They're well-made in a traditional kind of way, and generally still affordable. I'm also a fan of vintage Suntour derailleurs, more so than the Shimano ones. I've had better luck with old Suntour stuff than Simplex or Shimano. And I like the nod to the "navigation lights" type wrap with the red on the left and green on the right. Looks like a keeper.
DeleteI should do an entry with a couple photos of the different North Road bars. I tried searching around on Sheldon Brown's website about them but only saw "North Road" mentioned and not that there are actually a couple different variations of North Road. Both are comfortable, well-made bars. The 2 inches is kind of a preference thing. Most of my bikes are 20 inch North Roads (they seem the more common), though I know my 1940 Model 35 Raleigh has 22 inch North Roads (could be the large ones were more common earlier on).
Ride on.
Mike
Thanks for taking the time to read my post. I neglected to mention that after spending time catching up with your blog, I was inspired to document my own bike stuff. Partly to serve as a historical self-reference (something I hadn't considered until you mentioned it), partly to change the way I share information. The Bianchi post was a companion post to my first-ever ride report. I went on a ride recently which affected me so much I felt the desire to share it. I've also been trying to photo-document the refurb on my DL-1 (another first for me), which will become a post (or probably a short series).
ReplyDeleteNice that you caught on to the nautical whimsy of my wrap. You're the first to have mentioned that. Yeah, this bike is a keeper. It's the best at nothing, but good enough for a wide variety of situations that it has its cemented its place. Plus, I've just started to consider it (at 36 years old) to be "vintage."
I know I'd appreciate seeing an entry on variations of North Road bars. Most of us don't have the luxury of having different types on hand to compare (even if aware different ones exist). Obviously I've observed the different Schwinn "tourist" bars, but was completely ignorant to the RI offerings.
I have to say at this point: even though I find the 22" to be more comfortable, I might still prefer the 20" on a bike such as my Humber Sports. Because I'm used to the look, and I think the narrow bars suit the look of the bike better. But that's the kind of superficial constraint that would keep me from riding it more. Similar to keeping the OE block pedals with those spikes at the end you mention--I'm also not a fan. Or uncomfortable grips...
I have the build tag (or whatever it's called) for my '54 Humber. I'm curious to see if it lists a handlebar size. I'll email you a pic.
-Wilson