1959 Schwinn Traveler "Tall" Frame Three Speed

 My latest addition is yet another project bike - an attractive, green 1959 Schwinn Traveler three speed bike core.

 

This 1959 Schwinn Traveler is unusual in that it is a "tall" frame model: a 23-24 inch frame that rides on 26 inch wheels. Most Schwinn "tall" frame three speeds date to the late 1960s through late 1970s. Although the later bikes are solid choices for a utility rider, I am particularly drawn to these earlier, more ornate models. 

I've gradually devolved over the years from looking solely for complete, largely original and nice condition bikes to finding and fixing up decent bike "cores". I'm at the point that I most enjoy taking something like this and bringing it back to life where it can ride again. Many parts added will be correct to 1959, while others will be period correct for the 1950s era. I'll go with a new Brooks B66 saddle and retro LED lights (a torpedo tail light rear and chrome bullet front).
 

 These late '50s and early '60s Schwinns have very ornate graphics on the frames featuring tri-color bands, ribbons, hat-in-the-ring, and Schwinn logos. The graphics on this particular bike are in so-so shape. They're mostly there, but certainly have some loss here and there. I'm inclined to keep them as they are rather than try to strip them and replacement with reproductions. I think the wear matches the condition of the rest of the bike just fine.

 Schwinn had some nice, luxury type touches on these bikes. It has a nice, chrome seat clamp with monogram "AS" bolts - Arnold, Schwinn & Company. My 1964 Traveler has the same kind of thing.

 

The color also drew me to this model. It is a two-stage green translucent over an aluminum base coat. I've found Testors paints that will match this combination pretty nicely.

 

 

I've already done quite a bit of work. The fork needed some straightening, which I accomplished using a block of wood and the Park Tool HTS-1. I followed that with final tweaking on the Park fork straightening jig that mounts in a vise. I also ran the HTS-1 through the head tube to verify the frame angles are OK. The HTS-1 generally works for slight corrections, and this bike core is pretty good. So far... so good. The HTS-1 tool, for all the talk surrounding it online, is not a miracle-worker and don't expect it to save bikes that are severely bent.

The fork needed some additional work to re-set and tighten the crown race. One secret to tightening a persistently loose crown race on a basic bike like this is that you can use a ring of thin, sheet brass to "take up the slack". Cut a thin strip of brass and wrap it once (no overlap) around the steerer tube where the crown race will go. Next, drive the crown race carefully down over the sheet brass ring. Because the brass is softer, it will conform and to the tiny gap between the steerer tube surface and the crown race. 

I like to use a closely-matching piece of pipe to drive the entire crown race at once. However, you can also drive the race by carefully and evenly hitting it with a punch, working around the edge as you go to keep it even. Be careful not to mar the bearing race in the crown. You'll be left with a tight crown race when you're done. In a pinch, a ring of soda can aluminum can also work, though the sheet brass is a bit more workable and uniform.

I've also already done quite a bit of repair to the paint. The Testors paints I'm using are relatively user-friendly and match reasonably well.

 

 As you can see from the sale photo above, there's a gash in the original head badge, a winged badge I rather like. So this received a little JB Weld to even the surface and some matching paint to hide the damage. 

There's no secret to doing this kind of work well. Just go slow and pay attention to little details. JB Weld is affordable, workable, and sets slowly enough that you can correct your mistakes. It's also sandable and paintable when you need to do final work.

I'll cover my extensive work on the stainless steel Traveler fenders (parts pulled from a junked bike) in the next entry. It will involve fender straightening blocks and a lot of polishing...

 

I think once it is done, this bike will make a nice pair with my 1964 tall frame Traveler. The '64 is in better condition, and comes in a very sleek, black paint with chrome and stainless bright parts.