Raleigh Chain Case: Adapting A Screw To Fit

Adapting Parts: Raleigh brake pad screw converted to chain case screw.

Sometimes you run into a part that you just cannot locate. This happened to be the case with the Raleigh Dawn rod brake roadster's front chaincase mounting screw. A 26 inch Raleigh full chaincase needs to be able to mount to the frame both at the back (via a two piece clamp) and at the front- via a screw that binds the chain case to the frame. In this case I had the rear clamp but not the front screw. I wanted to test fist the chain case. 

Raleigh screws use a proprietary 26 TPI type thread system. A normal 24 TPI screw will not work. Metric 1mm pitch screws sort of work, but won't full tighten. I tried an M6 bolt, but it wouldn't bite down enough. That meant it was time to improvise.

I went through my parts and found an old set of Raleigh sports brake frames. These are the metal frames that hold the rubber caliper brake pads. The thing was looking for was the screw. Being Raleigh parts, the pitch would be correct, I just needed to make sure the size was correct.

Sure enough, the size was the same, so I opened up the frame and extracted the screw. The screw's head was a football shaped flat thing without any bit slot. I could sort of get an adjustable wrench to turn the item, but then I figured I would adapt the part by cutting in a slot for a screwdriver.

I took a Dremel cutting wheel like the one shown below and on medium speed cut a slot into the screw head.

The slot is certainly not as perfect as a precision manufactured one, but it would allow some power in turning the screw in. I plan on using blue Loctite or perhaps a lock washer to secure it ones I am ready for final mounting. This will keep it from vibrating out, but still allow me to take it out if need be.

 

Below is the test fitted chain case. It needs to be cleaned and painted to match, but I can at least be fairly sure it will mount and fit correctly. The screw I adapted will go a long way to making sure it will stay tight and fit properly. 

Riding Vintage Bicycles In the Winter

The autumn is wearing on, which means shorter days and colder temperatures. However, just because the winter is coming does not mean you need to entirely give up your vintage bicycle riding.

  

Your Basic Emergency Kit is Essential

A couple of weeks before the cold weather and dark conditions set in (often the changing of the clocks is a sign for those who ride in the evening), you should take a look at your riding kit and see if everything is in order. First, there should be some emergency supplies in there, in case you break down. This means a tire patch kit and levers, a flashlight, spare bulbs for your lights, a warm set of gloves, and maybe an adjustable wrench/screwdriver grouping. I use a large period saddle bag on my Raleigh sports to haul these things. I also have a brooks seat protector for wet or rainy conditions.The silver ring is a cuff clip for long pants, which I suggest you have if you want to keep your cuffs out of the chain. The best advice here is to think of what could go wrong in a ride (in a sane manner) and put in the stuff you'd need to remedy the problem. Also remember to carry your cell phone, in case you need to call a friend for a ride (if things get really bad). It's much harder to just "leg it" home when it's below freezing and dark outside.

 Getting A Little Extra Light

Before riding in the dark, it's also time to check your headlight and taillight bulbs. Do a quick test to check light levels. Some systems put out nice light, others are a little anemic. A modern LED or halogen system running on good batteries will provide nice light. If you go period like me, my suggestion is an uprated bulb for a Dynohub or similar system.

 The following website has some Dynohub-specific stuff that I found very helpful in selecting an uprated headlight bulb. It really does make a difference compared to the originals:


http://www.mbzponton.org/n2awa/bikes.htm

My bulbs are:

Head lamp bulb: "GH107", halogen, Screw-cap, 5V, 1.5W (0.3A)
Tail lamp bulb: "GV601", incandescent, Screw-cap, 6V, 0.1A, 0.6W

Both available from:

http://www.reflectalite.com/halogenpage.html


Again, check your system before you ride off.

 It is also essential to have a rear reflector, which can be most helpful when you have cars behind you. Mine are period correct pieces, but still provide a degree of safety in being seen. A single reflector, alone, is not enough, but it goes a long way in being seen.

Priming the Pump

A frame pump or portable air pump for your tires is also a good idea. You can indeed find period-correct pumps too. If your bicycle has no frame pegs, you can buy nice frame pump clamps from various sources, usually on E-bay. On this Raleigh, I use period chrome clamps and a new pump that is a copy of the original. It is a good idea to refresh the rubber seals every so often with Trident Silicone Grease. Do not use a petroleum-based grease on the seals, always opt for Silicone. You can get it at Diver's or Scuba Shops.

Pumps even come in different sizes. This smaller aluminum Zefal pump is French and offers a compact solution for an even smaller pump. The smaller pumps tend to be a little more work because they put out less air, but it's still a good idea to have one.

Many old 3-speeds have an added advantage of a white strip on their rear fenders. The white combines with the rear reflector and the tail lamp on this bike to add some visibility.

Another period option is a "bottle" generator that rubs on the tire. I have had luck with Union brand Halogen dish lamps from the 70s and 80s, but this particular one is a two-pin dual beam light. They are very heavy and when engaged slow the bike down. However, they can provide a nice amount of light for the individual who is prepared to tinker with the system. I suggest them if you are interested in a low cost, period solution for your bike and are prepared to play around with setting them up properly. If you want an "easy" solution, avoid the vintage bottle types because you have to set them up carefully, and they can be a pain to pedal. Modern or brand new bottle types can cost a lot more, but are much better. However, for a period rider who is willing to maximize the system, a vintage bottle like this one below can offer a solution.

You can also buy a modern lamp with a retro look, if you want better light but a chrome bullet type. The lamp is made by Busch & Muller, and available at places like Peter White Cycles.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&m-hl.asp

It is worth noting that none of the vintage systems I detail here are close to modern ones for output. Modern lamps offer impressive strength and lower weight. You can always strap a modern light onto your vintage handlebars for the winter and use that for awhile, at least until the longer days return. However, even if you opt for an all-period system, it is best to check your kit, your lights, and have warm, fairly visible clothing for the ride.

Polishing Plastic: Simichrome

Many people are familiar with Simichrome as a quality polish for plated metals, often for chrome plating. However, what not everyone knows is that it is also a very nice polish for plastic products and even for small pieces. This stuff is expensive, but worth it in my book. It is the most versatile polish I have encountered because it is just the right mixture of gentle and abrasive for finishing off pieces. Tough... but sensitive as they say.

After finishing up my hurricane prep at the shed, I decided to work on the Raleigh Dawn project a little bit. Among other things I did, I took the old Fairlytes reflector and polished it up using Simichrome and a paper towel. You will require an arm to do this as well, though I cannot tell you where to buy one of those.

Here is the item "before". It's pretty cruddy and faded, but not broken or heavily damaged. The reflector lens has some scratches but no breaks. I then set to work with Simichrome. I generally follow the directions, but instead of letting the polish paste haze up entirely, I actually start rubbing while it is still soft. I want to work gradually with a softer paste on plastic than on chrome plating. For chrome, I would follow the directions on the box and let it haze up. Because this is plastic, I suggest working it while it's still soft.

Here is the side of the piece after working. There are still some of the deeper scratches, but as you can see it's much better. Some of the fading has also been removed. If you wanted to go after those deeper scratches, or entirely remove the faded layer, you would have to keep working with the polish. However, you have to remember that you're removing material with each pass. The Dawn will be a "cleaned up" but not totally done over bike, so some minor wear like this is fine for me.

Here is the finished piece overall. As for the lens, I polish that too. I put on the Simichrome and again work it while soft. This time I am careful to take some pressure off and work in circles, lightly swirling around. The result is that the reflector cleans up pretty well, though a few scratches remain. Once again, that sort of condition will work fine with this 1965 Raleigh Dawn roadster, so I'm happy enough with the result. The hardware you happen to see with it will be cleaned using a Dremel brush rather than Oxalic acid because CAD plating and galvanized finishes are attacked by Oxalic. The Dremel brush will be the answer for those. I am getting to the point where I should start buying stock in Dremel's company, since I use so many brushes and attachments these days.