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| Vintage Spares: spare Webb calipers, SA cog spacers, SA lamp brackets |
In the vintage bicycle repair hobby, the thinking on vintage parts and supplies can be divided into a spectrum with two very broad camps at the ends: those who buy parts and supplies on an "as-needed" basis, and those who "stock up". In between the two ends are those who stock up on certain parts or supplies, but not others.
At the "as-needed" end of the spectrum the person tends to keep a minimal stock of spares and then hunt for parts when something breaks down or a new project comes in and needs parts or supplies. [The dysfunctional version of this person keeps almost nothing as spares, then hounds other hobbyists when something breaks down and a part is needed.]
At the "stock up" end, the person buys parts and supplies ahead of time and then stores them. When a project comes in or a bike needs something, the person breaks the part out of storage. [The dysfunctional version of this hoards large numbers of parts and never uses them, even if they're needed.]
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| Bulk pack of unused, vintage Sturmey Archer spoke nipples |
My advice, after 30+ years of fixing old bikes, is to practice "smart stocking". Smart stocking involves keeping a targeted stock of parts or supplies, aimed at careful buying and stocking the "often needed" stuff. Here are my basic rules:
Think about the part or supply and ask yourself "is this one of those parts or supplies that always seems to be missing, broken, or in need of replacement on this kind of bike?". There are certain parts and supplies that wear out or are prone to breakage. Target those kinds of things for stocking up a bit.
Learn what a "good" or at least "fair" price is for the part or supply. Don't overpay. Learn how common the part is.
Have an idea of how many spares and supplies you have. For example, having a few spare brake levers around can be good if you're rebuilding projects. Having 10 spare sets in a box somewhere is probably overkill...
When you hit the trifecta above, that's when stocking up is a good idea: (1) it's a part/supply often needed for the kinds of bikes you repair, (2) you see it at a good price and it's not easy to find, and (3) you're not already stocked up on it.
I use this thinking because storage space is a limited resource. I keep my spare parts in labeled bags, tins, and boxes that are stored in water-tight plastic tubs. Items prone to rust or corrosion are given a shot of WD40 in their bag and then sealed up. I put labels on the bags, tins, and boxes so I know what the part is inside.
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| A spare 1940s era Raleigh tail lamp |
The bottom line is that you don't need to be a hoarder and you don't need to be "that person" who is always hounding others for parts. You can stock up in a smart way that gives you the parts and supplies you need while also making an efficient use of storage space.
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| A vintage Sturmey Archer spare hub - 1951 |
i almost bought those Webb calipers --if they're the same ones offered on the bay recently for a good price--glad they went to a good home--what is your experience with "best" in terms of stopping power English caliper brakes, Raleigh or GB hiduminium? Those are the ones i know. I like the GBs. Have you tried Webb, Monitor Sheerline or some of the other obscure ones? And for pads, are salmon continentals equal to fibrax cheater pads on steel? I haven't managed to snag any of the latter yet? And wow you found a box of light brackets, not easy to find. I may go period incorrect and use some tektro 800As i already have for my upcoming. Marcos/Mark
ReplyDeleteI find the GB brakes a little better than the stock Raleigh brakes. In my experience, the Webb, Raleigh, and Phillips brakes all are about the same when set up properly. They work OK in dry conditions, but are pretty weak in wet conditions because of the steel rims. The brakes like the later Phillips Vox Populi and the Weinmann 810 that separate the arm tension adjustment from the caliper mounting adjustment are helpful. Of the lot, I think the GB and the Weinmann are the best, though that's not saying a lot by today's standards. If the Tektro brakes will fit, they do offer an improvement. The best brake pads on steel rims I have used were a no-name, very soft pad out of Canada. They wore quickly but they did work on steel pretty well. Other than those, Kool Stop reds or blacks are decent. Sunlite pads aren't bad in dry conditions if you don't ride in the rain. The old Fibrax pads with felt or leather on them do help in the wet conditions, but it's kind of maginal by today's more demanding standards. The main issue is you never get really good braking on a wet, chrome-plated rim. It's either OK in dry conditions are kind of marginal in wet. Hope this is helpful to you.
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