1966 Raleigh Sports - a Facebook Market Find

 Autumn is beginning to set in here in western New England. I am still getting rides in, but also starting to think about winter projects - what I might like to work on during the cold, dark months. I came across this 1966 Raleigh Sports over the weekend on Facebook Market. It is in decent condition, but as with all the other old bikes I locate, will need some work to put it back on the road. 

 

I am impressed with some of the parts on this bike that often turn up damaged: light set, handlebar grips, leather saddle, etc. 

 

This winter, I have two definite projects: 1966 Raleigh Sports and 1948 Raleigh Sports. I also have one possible project: 1965 Schwinn Deluxe Racer. The Deluxe Racer is for sale as a project on the usual bike exchange websites, but if there are no takers, I'll probably refurbish the Schwinn and put it back on the road myself.

 

A Few Ride Photos from this Week...

 Not much new to report - just a few ride photos from this week.

1947 Raleigh Model 35

1960 Schwinn Traveler

25% Off Summer Stuff... Sign that Fall is Arriving

1964 Schwinn Traveler

An evening photo... some color on the trees now.

1964 Schwinn Traveler - matching dice valve caps

 

Guide to Oil for Vintage Bicycles

Oil is an essential part of maintaining certain kinds of vintage bicycles, particularly old style three speed utility, commuter, and sporting bikes. 

The classic Sturmey Archer three speeds used oil lubrication, as did Austrian, British, and Swiss, knock-offs of the classic Sturmey hubs. Classic New Departure coaster brakes, a staple of vintage American balloon tire and middleweight bikes, also used oil lubrication. And then there is the plethora of British and American-made front hubs that allowed introduction of fresh oil through ports. And let us not forget about the many classic British bicycles that had oil ports in their bottom brackets. 

In short, if you are going to own and maintain a classic bicycle, it helps to know about the different oils offered today. Gone are the days where one or two types of oil dominated the field. The choices today are myriad. 

 

 Light Oils - Good for Tight Bolts and Tight Spaces

 Light oil is an essential shop tool. Although some light oils are good lubricants, most are used more for loosening stuck bolts than for lubricating moving parts (an exception is noted below). 

Kano Kroil is an excellent choice for loosening stuck screws, bolts, nuts, etc. Kroil is a very thin, penetrating oil. It can be used with gentle heat to free stuck bolts and screws. Although Kroil is very good at these tasks, keep in mind Kroil is not a lubricant to be used in your hub or bottom bracket. 

 

WD40 is a classic choice for free stuck bolts and screws, though my experience has been that Kroil does a better job in that department. Where WD40 excels is repelling or displacing moisture. In fact, the "WD" stands for "Water Displacement". WD40 also helps remove rust when combined with 0000 steel wool, bronze wool, or copper wool. WD40 also is not a true "lubricant" in the sense that you would use it in your hub or bottom bracket. WD40 can be used to clean out dirty hubs or bottom brackets, but it should not be used in place of a lubricating medium oil. Think of WD40 as a cleaner, rust remover, and water displacer. 

 

 

A word about Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone: for many years, a mixture of ATF and acetone has been cited as the most powerful freer of stuck bolts and nuts. My experience has been that such a mixture is an effective freer of stuck bolts and nuts, but that Kano Kroil is more reliable, better at handling heat, and less aggressive with painted surfaces (the acetone component in the ATF-Acetone mixture will destroy paint). ATF-acetone mixture should be used only in situations where no painted surfaces are at risk. I find Kroil more convenient in just about every category of use. 

 

 

Tri-Flow is that "exception" I noted above to the rule that very thin oils mainly are used for removing stuck parts. Tri-Flow is a PTFE lubricant that is very thin. It comes in a small bottle with a thin straw. It excels at lubricating parts where other oils will not penetrate. For example, I refresh brake calipers on bikes at the start of each season with a drop of Tri-Flow. The Tri-Flow works into the tight spaces of an assembled and tensioned caliper without having to loosen any of the parts as you would with grease. Tri-Flow also excels at lubricating fixed-length Sturmey Archer cables and Raleigh pattern brake cables. A few drops of Tri-Flow keeps the cables moving in their housings without any disassembly. Tri-Flow also is great at stopping a squeaking saddle - a few drops go in the metal-metal joints of the saddle carriage, such as one would find on a Brooks B66, B67, or B73. Use Tri-Flow in those tight spaces where disassembly is impossible or inconvenient. Tri-Flow also can be used to lubricate a clean but dry old bike chain.

 

 

One-Step - cleans and lubricates chains: One-Step is a combined lubricant and cleaner for bicycle chains. I use it in conjunction with a stiff, plastic bristle chain cleaning brush to clean and lubricate dirty chains. One-Step is not something I would use to lubricate a bottom bracket or brake caliper. It is very thin, but it does very nicely when following product directions on chains.

 

 

Medium Oil: Lifeblood of Internal Gear Hubs

 

 

Three-in-One Oil, be sure to get the right bottle: 3-in-1 oil is probably the classic all-purpose medium bicycle oil. But did you know that one blend of 3-in-1 is superior to the others for bicycle uses? Although 3-in-1 advertises its general purpose, black-white-red colored bottle as being for bicycles, the blue bottle ("motor") oil is superior for almost all bicycle uses. That is because the black-white-red, all-purpose oil tends to congeal over time and attract more dust. The blue "motor" oil bottle provides superior lifespan in almost all bicycle uses. This is especially true for lubricating old hubs, such as Sturmey Archer three speeds and Raleigh front hubs. Medium 3-in-1 can also be used to refresh brake calipers, especially older Raleigh and Schwinn-built steel calipers that use fiber or rubber washers (Tri-Flow also works well for this - as noted above). 

 

SAE 20 and 30 motor oils, another option: motor oil also is not a bad choice for lubrication. SAE 20 works fine in Sturmey Archer three speeds (in fact, 3-in-1 blue bottle motor oil is SAE 20 oil). SAE 30 can be used in bottom brackets, if you don't mind the mess. (I prefer a good grease in bottom brackets for ease of maintenance, but oil works too). Did you know that you can oil a Raleigh bottom bracket without an oiler cap? You can buy a plastic flexible tube, send the plastic tube down the bicycle's seat tube, thereby dropping in the oil from above. It makes a mess, but it will lubricate your hub if you have no easier route available. My advice, if using motor oil, is to use regular "SAE oil", not a variable weight oil like 10W-30 or a synthetic oil. If you have no other choice, those oils will work, but conventional SAW 20 and 30 weight oils are closer to the original formulation at the time your old bicycle was manufactured. 

 

Medium gear oil - a classic choice for New Departure type hubs: Did you know that New Departure's maintenance instructions for their classic coaster brakes called for gear oil? New Departure's classic coaster brake hubs operate using a series of small metal discs inside the hub, some stationary and some turning with the hub shell. When the rider pushes backwards on the pedals, a driver push that stack of discs together, causing friction between the station and the moving discs. Such a set up requires a medium oil that will allow the discs to separate when the rider pedals forward again. A medium weight oil or medium gear oil will keep these old hubs operating smoothly. Grease or oil can be used in the hub outer bearings (grease in the outer bearings helps keep the disc oil in better).  

 

Conclusion

Don't be afraid to keep a couple of different oils in your shop. Products like Kroil and WD40 can be used to free stuck bolts and keep rust at bay. Oils like Tri-Flow and 3-in-1 blue bottle can keep bike parts moving smoothly. A spare bottle of motor oil can keep your automobile and your bicycle on the road. Whatever you decide to use, stick to periodic maintenance schedules and keep track of what needs a drop of oil on your bike from time-to-time. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Guide to Greases for Vintage Bicycles

 

 Introduction

I am sometimes asked about the various options for grease and oil on vintage bicycles. In fact, my page devoted to oil for Sturmey Archer hubs is one of the more popular areas of this website. With all of the various colors and choices for grease on the market, the options can be confusing. This page is a brief summary of your grease and oil options, and my own thoughts on how the options work for vintage bike restoration. 

Grease: A Colorful Array of Options

For many years, at least in the USA, thick, brown axle grease was king. Old school brown axle grease was very thick, somewhat sticky, and only lasted a season or two before fouling and needing to be replaced. Axle grease also cooked off when subjected to high heat, such as heavy coaster brake use on long downhill stretches. Thankfully, the days when brown axle grease was the only option are long gone. Unless heavy, brown axle grease is your only option, I suggest choosing a more modern grease for bicycle bearings (including headsets, bottom brackets, and hubs).

Let's take a look at those more modern options.

 

• White Household Lithium Grease: This is probably the most common grease available in the USA today. White lithium grease is a medium consistence (NLGI 2 usually), with a short to medium lifespan. White lithium grease is acceptable in uses where part movement is occasional and where high temperatures are not present. White lithium grease can help lubricate brake caliper arms, brake levers, and brake cable cores. It usually lasts a couple ride seasons before it has to be refreshed. Household white lithium grease can be used on bearings in a pinch, but this should be avoided if possible because it has a relatively short lifespan. White lithium grease also can be prone to hardening and fouling if dirt and debris are encountered. White lithium grease also generally does not have very good oil and water wash-out resistance. This should be regarded solely as a "light duty" grease. 

 

• Red and "Tacky" Grease: This is a lithium grease of medium consistency (NLGI 2 rating). Red and Tacky grease is a big step up from household white grease. The longevity, corrosion resistance, wash-out resistance, and lubrication are all better than white grease. Red and tacky grease is suitable for bicycle bearings, particularly if the bicycle is well-maintained. This grease lasts a couple of seasons and then should refreshed. This grease does OK sitting, though it does thicken up a bit. I find red and tacky grease is a little too sticky for brake caliper arms and levers, though it will work OK in those applications. Some common "bicycle shop" greases belong in this lithium grease family, usually red in color. 

 

• Heavy Duty Green Polyurea  Grease: This grease is the next step up in durability above Red/Tacky grease (also medium NLGI 2 grease). Green polyurea grease is intended for intense uses where weather and adverse conditions are present, such as in factories or on farms. This grease is a little slicker than Red/Tacky grease. Lucas brand Xtra Heavy Duty green grease is my "go to" grease for bearings such as bottom brackets, pedals, and hub main bearings. Polyurea green grease has a long lifespan and holds up well to bicycles that need to run after sitting for an extended period of time. It also has good rust prevention qualities. It also is slick enough to work well on cable inners, brake calipers, and brake levers. 

 

• Does brand matter? Only to the extent that you have a reputable brand versus an unknown brand. Major brands of grease all do pretty well with bicycle uses. Compared to an industrial machine or farm equipment, bicycles are not all that demanding. With that being said, my experience with generic/off-branded grease is that they are not quite as good as the larger and more-established brands. For example, I recently encountered a tube of green generic grease (no real brand was shown on the label), which did not have the same resistance to hardening and dirt as Lucas. My advice is to stick with a brand you know - either an established large brand like Lucas, or a familiar store brand you've used before. Stay away from shady-looking, online suppliers of generic grease. It may not have the protection you're seeking for a treasured vintage bike. 

•  Do I need a bike-specific grease? No. The greases put out by bicycle parts and tool companies are generally very good greases, but they also tend to be more expensive. These greases are as good as the non-bike specific greases from major manufacturers and are basically the same thing as available in the auto parts store, home improvement store, or hardware store (support your local small business hardware store when ever you can). You can certainly buy a bike-specific grease and do just fine, but you'll be paying a bit more for the same result as you would with a quality grease from a major grease maker. You just pay more for that bicycle branding and convenience of the smaller tube.  

FYI: NLGI guide to greases: 

 

 

Oil versus Grease? 

• Oil versus grease - which is better? The basic rule is to use oil where the manufacturer specifically calls for oil and where very small parts need to be able to move freely.  For example, vintage Sturmey Archer AW hubs should not be coated in medium grease (NLGI 2 grease for example); oil them instead. For more information about oiling vintage Sturmey Archer hubs, see HERE. In some instances, a very thin grease (look for NLGI 0 or 00 grading), can be used on modern Sturmey Archer hubs. Some people even run very thin NLGI 00 greases on vintage hubs, but that is a matter of personal preference. My own preference is to use Lucas Xtra green grease on the outer bearings of the Sturmey Archer hubs, and to use 20-weight 3-in-1 blue bottle (motor) oil on the innards of the hubs. More information is available HERE.

 

 

 

 

Warm, Dry Weather Persists - Vintage Raleigh and Schwinn Content

Warm, dry weather has no equal when it comes to riding. The past couple of weeks have had perfect riding weather - a good thing when daylight is gradually getting into shorter supply and the riding season will eventually end next month. That means it is time to get as many good rides in as possible. 

This week's bicycles are already familiar to readers of this website: a 1970 Raleigh DL-1 and a 1960 Schwinn Traveler. The DL-1 has that "classic English roadster" ride to it, while the Schwinn has the typical solid feel of a welded frame, American-made three speed. 

1970 Raleigh DL-1

1960 Schwinn Traveler

A dry, dusty local road in September

 

Rolling Toward the End of Summer with Vintage Schwinn Three Speeds

The important thing this time of year is to keep fitting in time to ride. The weather here is still warm, and it has been pretty dry lately. The days are becoming shorter and eventually the season will end. We usually finish our ride season here some time in the second half of October. So for now, the goal is to get in rides on the good days and keep the latter part of the ride season active.

I rebuilt this 1960 Schwinn Traveler earlier this year. It came to me as a somewhat tired newspaper delivery bike that needed refurbishing. It came out beautifully and is a comfortable rider. It is a fairly heavy bike, typical of the 1950s-60s era welded Schwinn three speeds, but it fits me and functions wonderfully.

 

The 1947 Schwinn Continental three speed is a sportier bike. The frame is smaller and is made of fillet brazed Cr-Mo steel. The weight is reasonably light, considering it is a 1940s era touring bike. This bike offers a ride competitive with the English three speeds of its day. The quality is equal to a mid-level Raleigh bike from that time period, which is to say, very good.