Schwinn New World, Thinking about Frame Sizes

 

 Part of working on and riding old bikes is getting a feel for your preferred frame and wheel size. 

 I like 26 inch wheels (as on the Raleigh Sports/Schwinn New World) and 28 inch wheels (as on the Raleigh DL-1 and similar). For frames, I like a 22-24 inch frame on 26 inch wheels and a 22-23 inch frame on 28 inch wheels.

With that in mind, I may be selling my 21-inch pre-war New World bikes. I have one complete bike and one project that is partially assembled. As nice as these bikes are, I think I just prefer the 22-23 inch frame size better than the smaller 21 inch with 26 inch wheels. 

It can be helpful to focus on fit in developing a vintage bike collection.

(See my previous article on frame sizes). 

Restarting a Rod Brake Bicycle for Spring - 1970 Raleigh DL-1

 Yesterday, I gave an example of how you can refresh a vintage bike for spring (I used my 1957 Schwinn Traveler as that example). 

Today, I will provide some information specific to rod brake bicycles coming back out for the start of the riding season. 

This 1970 Raleigh DL-1 is in good shape. Cosmetically speaking, it is one of the cleanest DL-1 bikes I've ever seen.  

In addition to the previous tips, rod brake bicycles have a few things you should check.

• Always check the rims for trueness when starting the riding season. Pay special attention to the wheel "roundness". Spin the wheel and look at the wheel from the side. Does the wheel spin roundly, or does the rim "hop" up and down? Rod brakes work best and most smoothly when the rim does not hop up and down.  Look for spots on the rim that indicate uneven braking.
• Check the rod brakes carefully for the gap between the brake pad and rim surface. Adjust the brake space as needed.
• Check the linkages for slop. Start at the linkage closest to the wheel and trace it back to the levers at the handlebars. Check each joint for looseness/slop. Remember that in a rod brake system, tolerances/slop "stacks" (a little slop in each joint adds up to a lot of slop/sponginess in how the brake lever will feel when you pull it).
• Check that the pads are not going to hit any of the spokes. Test this through out the spin of the wheel.
•  Oil the stirrup pins a little if the stirrups are hanging up. Make sure there's no oil on the brake pad or rim surface.
• Make sure the return springs at the levers are returning the levers fully so you have maximum leverage/pull when you pull the brake levers.
• Make sure the adjustment nuts in the system are all tight when you're done. 
• Make wipe down and clean the brake rods/stirrups when you're done. Oil and grime can cause problems if they build up.

 

Reviving Bikes For Riding Season - 1957 Schwinn Traveler

 We're getting into better weather and longer days for riding this time of year. The threat of snow and ice is past, and there is enough evening daylight to ride. Those of us who have a "riding season" (here it is roughly early April through mid November) now must get bikes back on the road after the winter layoff. 

Let's go through the basics of getting bikes back out for spring, using this 1957 Schwinn Traveler as an example.

 

Tires/Wheels/Brakes:

•  Check the tires for pressure. This bike had 35psi in front and 30psi in back. That's way too low. Pump the tires up to proper pressure. In this case, I'm using 65psi front and rear. Some people like the front a bit (10% or so) softer than the back. That is OK too.  
•  Check the wheels for trueness. In this case, the front needs a little adjustment. Check the wheels for any looseness in the frame or play at the bearings. In this case, the wheels are tight on the frame and there is acceptable cone tension.
• Check the hubs for spin/play. In this case, the Sturmey Archer AW hub received a little 20 weight oil. 
  
• Check the brakes for movement and fit. In this case, the brakes are set up properly and moving smoothly. No need to do anything. Sometimes you need to add a little oil to the pivot. 

Shifting:

• Check the shifter cable for proper tension, adjust as needed. In this case, the shifter cable and pulley are properly set up and moving smoothly.
• Check the shifter for engagement. In this case, the shifter is clicking into place properly.

 

 Bottom Bracket and Pedals:

• Check the bottom bracket for spin/play. In this case, the bottom bracket is turning  smoothly and is snug. 
• Check the chain for cleanliness and smoothness. In this case, the chain received a little One Shot lubricant/cleaner.
  
• Check the pedals for tightness and spin/grease. In this case, the pedals are snug in the cranks, and spin smoothly. There is some excess grease coming from the bearings, which I wiped away.

 

Headset:

• Check the headset for play/movement. In this case, the headset is snug and turning freely/smoothly.

 

Lights, Bell, Bag, Saddle:

• Check the lights for working batteries. In this case, the front was OK but the back had a dead battery. I replaced the AAA battery in the rear light.
• Check that the seat post and saddle are firmly in place and not loose. No issues on this bike.
  
•  Check the saddle bag to see that you have the correct tools in it when you ride. In this case, the bag was empty so I put in a small adjustable wrench and a saddle wrench in case I have a problem on the road. A cuff clip can also be added to the bag if you are concerned about cuffs getting caught in the chain as you ride.
• Check the saddle for mold and for tension. In this case, the saddle is fine.
• Does the bell ring as intended? Is it loose on the bars? In this case, it's fine.
  

 

Shakedown Ride:

• Take a short ride close to home (within walking distance) and check that everything works as intended before going on a longer ride. In this case, the bike is pretty good. I did notice a little wobble in the front rim, so some additional truing is needed. Otherwise, it's good to go for another season.