Grease - Guide to Bicycle Grease

 

 

 Introduction

I am sometimes asked about the various options for grease and oil on vintage bicycles. In fact, my page devoted to oil for Sturmey Archer hubs is one of the more popular areas of this website. With all of the various colors and choices for grease on the market, the options can be confusing. This page is a brief summary of your grease and oil options, and my own thoughts on how the options work for vintage bike restoration. 

Grease: A Colorful Array of Options

For many years, at least in the USA, thick, brown axle grease was king. Old school brown axle grease was very thick, somewhat sticky, and only lasted a season or two before fouling and needing to be replaced. Axle grease also cooked off when subjected to high heat, such as heavy coaster brake use on long downhill stretches. Thankfully, the days when brown axle grease was the only option are long gone. Unless heavy, brown axle grease is your only option, I suggest choosing a more modern grease for bicycle bearings (including headsets, bottom brackets, and hubs).

Let's take a look at those more modern options.

 

• White Household Lithium Grease: This is probably the most common grease available in the USA today. White lithium grease is a medium consistence (NLGI 2 usually), with a short to medium lifespan. White lithium grease is acceptable in uses where part movement is occasional and where high temperatures are not present. White lithium grease can help lubricate brake caliper arms, brake levers, and brake cable cores. It usually lasts a couple ride seasons before it has to be refreshed. Household white lithium grease can be used on bearings in a pinch, but this should be avoided if possible because it has a relatively short lifespan. White lithium grease also can be prone to hardening and fouling if dirt and debris are encountered. White lithium grease also generally does not have very good oil and water wash-out resistance. This should be regarded solely as a "light duty" grease. 

 

• Red and "Tacky" Grease: This is a lithium grease of medium consistency (NLGI 2 rating). Red and Tacky grease is a big step up from household white grease. The longevity, corrosion resistance, wash-out resistance, and lubrication are all better than white grease. Red and tacky grease is suitable for bicycle bearings, particularly if the bicycle is well-maintained. This grease lasts a couple of seasons and then should refreshed. This grease does OK sitting, though it does thicken up a bit. I find red and tacky grease is a little too sticky for brake caliper arms and levers, though it will work OK in those applications. Some common "bicycle shop" greases belong in this lithium grease family, usually red in color. 

 

• Heavy Duty Green Polyurea  Grease: This grease is the next step up in durability above Red/Tacky grease (also medium NLGI 2 grease). Green polyurea grease is intended for intense uses where weather and adverse conditions are present, such as in factories or on farms. This grease is a little slicker than Red/Tacky grease. Lucas brand Xtra Heavy Duty green grease is my "go to" grease for bearings such as bottom brackets, pedals, and hub main bearings. Polyurea green grease has a long lifespan and holds up well to bicycles that need to run after sitting for an extended period of time. It also has good rust prevention qualities. It also is slick enough to work well on cable inners, brake calipers, and brake levers. 

 

• Does brand matter? Only to the extent that you have a reputable brand versus an unknown brand. Major brands of grease all do pretty well with bicycle uses. Compared to an industrial machine or farm equipment, bicycles are not all that demanding. With that being said, my experience with generic/off-branded grease is that they are not quite as good as the larger and more-established brands. For example, I recently encountered a tube of green generic grease (no real brand was shown on the label), which did not have the same resistance to hardening and dirt as Lucas. My advice is to stick with a brand you know - either an established large brand like Lucas, or a familiar store brand you've used before. Stay away from shady-looking, online suppliers of generic grease. It may not have the protection you're seeking for a treasured vintage bike. 

•  Do I need a bike-specific grease? No. The greases put out by bicycle parts and tool companies are generally very good greases, but they also tend to be more expensive. These greases are as good as the non-bike specific greases from major manufacturers and are basically the same thing as available in the auto parts store, home improvement store, or hardware store (support your local small business hardware store when ever you can). You can certainly buy a bike-specific grease and do just fine, but you'll be paying a bit more for the same result as you would with a quality grease from a major grease maker. You just pay more for that bicycle branding and convenience of the smaller tube.

FYI: NLGI guide to greases

 

 

 

Oil versus Grease? 

• Oil versus grease - which is better? The basic rule is to use oil where the manufacturer specifically calls for oil and where very small parts need to be able to move freely.  For example, vintage Sturmey Archer AW hubs should not be coated in medium grease (NLGI 2 grease for example); oil them instead. For more information about oiling vintage Sturmey Archer hubs, see HERE. In some instances, a very thin grease (look for NLGI 0 or 00 grading), can be used on modern Sturmey Archer hubs. Some people even run very thin  NLGI 00 greases on vintage hubs, but that is a matter of personal preference. My own preference is to use Lucas Xtra green grease on the outer bearings of the Sturmey Archer hubs, and to use 20-weight 3-in-1 blue bottle (motor) oil on the innards of the hubs. More information is available HERE.