Visit the Bike Shed on Facebook

 

The Bike Shed is on Facebook now as well. You can find the Bike Shed Facebook page HERE. 

The Facebook page is a second way to get information about vintage bicycles from the Bike Shed. 

Sturmey Archer Model "A"

 The vast majority of Sturmey Archer hubs in the USA are common models: AW, TCW, SC3, etc. The early, rare hubs generally show up in the UK. So I was surprised that while browsing eBay, I found a listing (not mine) for a rare hub: the Model "A". This hub should not be confused with the AW, AB, AG, etc. This is just the "A". The listing is a reminder that there are many, lesser-known Sturmey Archer hubs from the early days that we really don't see in the United States today.

Made between 1914 and 1916, this hub was not produced in very large numbers due to its short production run and the start of the First World War. It had a short production run during which Sturmey Archer also focused on war production for the First World War. After the war, the more common Model K hub replaced the A. 

Courtesy of Sturmey Archer Heritage

Most of Raleigh and Sturmey Archer production switched to war-time equipment by 1916. 

Courtesy of Sturmey Archer Heritage

As of June 2025, the Model A hub is still for sale on eBay. If you're a Sturmey Archer collector in the USA and you want an unusual hub for your collection, the Model A is definitely one to consider.  

 

Courtesy of eBay Listing

Courtesy of eBay Listing

Courtesy of eBay Listing

More information is available on  the Sturmey Archer Heritage webpage.  

The Model A had gear ratios somewhat different, but still similar to what most of us are used to in the AW hub and its close cousins. The Model A has a reduction of 23.8% in low, 1:1 normal, and an increase of 31.25% in high. 

Courtesy of Sturmey Archer Heritage

 The Model A, as with the early Sturmey rear hubs, can mount either a standard non-drive side axle nut, or an extended axle nut that includes a step peg. If you look closely at parts N3 and N4 above, you'll notice one regular axle nut and one long one. The long nut is something we don't often see today. Before the Second World War, and particular in the early days of the 1900s early 30s, it was common to ride taller roadsters. Riders would often ride bicycles where they could not set both feet on the ground while standing over the top tube. 

Today this would be unacceptable in a mass-produced consumer bike for safety reasons. But in the early days of roadsters, it was common practice to ride a frame that would be "too tall" for the rider today. The extended axle nut offers a foot peg whereby the rider kicks the bicycle into motion with one foot, sets the other foot on the peg, and then swings over the top and onto the saddle in a single motion. 

Advertising of the time did not generally call out the "Model A" hub, but referred to it more in the traditional way as the "Sturmey Archer gears" or "Sturmey Archer hub".

1916 British Ad Courtesy of Sturmey Archer Heritage

Yet even in the 1910s, the Sturmey Archer tri-coaster received more press in the USA than did the Model A, such being the preference of American cyclists for a coaster over hand brakes.

1915 American Ad Courtesy of Sturmey Archer Heritage

 Even so, we should not forget the Model A as a step from the early hubs like the first three speeds and the "Model X" up to the more familiar Model K and its offspring, the much-loved AW. 

 

 

 

 

  

Bike Repair Safety - A Warning Against Gasoline as a Cleaning Agent

I occasionally see people advocating the use of gasoline as a cleaning agent for de-greasing, washing parts, cleaning up old oil stains, etc. I counsel against using gasoline as a cleaning agent. Gasoline releases strong vapors that are both toxic and explosive. A single gallon of gasoline has the explosive potential of about 14 sticks of dynamite*. 

There are numerous safety warnings from industry, enthusiast groups, and government agencies against the use of gasoline as a cleaning agent, including government authorities in North Carolina, Sunoco fuel company,  motor sports enthusiast organizations, the state of Illinois, and many others.

There are alternatives to gasoline for de-greasing. Some are solvents such as Goof-Off (be careful around painted surfaces), Mineral Spirits, and Acetone (not to be used on painted surfaces).  These also release fumes and are flammable, though not quite as explosive as gasoline.

Even better, there are also non-solvent type alternatives that do away with the nasty fumes and flammability. For example, warm water and Simple Green cleaner in an ultra-sonic wash tub can work nicely. Dawn Power Wash dish soap also can break down grease without dangerous chemicals. Orange or Purple Degreaser also can do a good job without risk of fire (be careful on paint with these though - some paints are damaged by these two). 

The bottom line is - yes, gasoline works as a de-greaser and parts cleaner. But the risks of toxic fumes, fire, and explosion are too great. There are better alternatives. Be safe when you clean and repair your vintage bicycle. 

 

[*Side note: I recall the late Don "Mr. Wizard" Herbert had a famous TV science demonstration act he would occasionally perform. He would agitate a very small amount of gasoline or lighter fluid in a closed paint can, then touch a match held by a long stick to a hole in the bottom of the can, ignite the small amount of fuel, which in turn would pop the lid off the top of the can with considerable force. He would always end the demonstration by warning against fooling around with gasoline, which he would describe as "powerful stuff".]

1959 Schwinn Traveler

 

I have owned this 1959 Schwinn Traveler for a couple of years. It started out as a bare frame and fork, with the fork needing some straightening. Fortunately, I had the parts to complete the bike and straightened the fork. 

 

I have added a couple of personal touches on this bike not seen on my other green Traveler bikes. For example, this bike has white cable covers (grey would be stock) and "8-ball" valve stem caps (stock would be the small caps).

 

 

These Schwinn Traveler bikes were a luxurious three speed back in the 1950s and 60s, even if they are a bit heavy. They have many of the classic "mid-century", American style touches, such as stainless steel fenders with a front fin, lots of chrome, and white wall tires. 

 

 

 

"First Class" Ride Days

1970 Raleigh DL-1

 

 Here in New England, a "First Class" ride day is one that:

• Has very comfortable riding temperature and is not overly windy.
• The weather is dry and the road is also dry.
• Has a long period of daylight into the evening.

 

When you have those three, you have the "trifecta" here - a great day and evening to ride. For the first time in quite awhile, we had two or three of those this week. The weather so far this year has tended to be cool and rainy, but it seems to be turning the corner into summer this week. The weather here often changes quickly... So it is a good time to take advantage of those "first class" ride days.

DL-1 again...

1947 Raleigh Model 35

 

Another Option in 26 x 1 3/8 (590mm) Rims: Alesa Alloy Rims

Alesa Rims - Look Westrick but are more Endrick in Size

The common British 3-speed rim sized 26 x 1-3/8 (590mm) periodically is produced in various shapes by various companies. Rigida, Araya, and Sun Ringle are among the companies that have produced rims in this size, not to mention the originals from Raleigh, Dunlop, and Sturmey Archer. 

I was mildly surprised to recently come across a new listing for 590mm rims made by Alesa. These rims are alloy, but of a more traditional shape than the popular Sun CR18 rims. Let's take a closer look.

These rims resemble the old "Westrick" Raleigh rims found on the Dawn and Sports series bicycles. They have a ridge in the center, flanked by narrow flats. The sides are polished, plain, and flat for caliper brakes. Construction is straightforward, without any extra walls, boxes, or eyelet reinforcement. The rims are quite light.

The rim joint is noticeable, but no more so than on the popular Sun CR18 rim. The joint area is reasonably well-matched and smooth.

Although resembling the Westrick rims in shape, they are not quite the same as the originals. The Alesa rim is  narrower than Westrick, with narrow top flats, being closer in size to a traditional Endrick rim than to a true Westrick, despite the center ridge. This rim will not reliably accommodate full-sized rod brake pads on the inner surface because the top flats are too narrow. Overall, I would describe the Alesa as an Endrick rim with a center ridge rather than being a true "Westrick".

Plain eyelets without reinforcing on Alesa rims

Whereas the Westrick can take both the rod and the cable-caliper brakes, this Alesa rim only looks suitable for cable-caliper brakes that touch the side walls. 

The original Westrick is a wider rim than the Alesa

That being said, this rim does capture a certain vintage look, more so than the CR-18. I recommend, given the single-layer construction at the eyelets, that nipple/rim washers be used when lacing these into wheels.

From what I can see, these rims are only made in 36-hole drilling. This is a big drawback for people wanting to preserve the original 40/32 hole combination of their English three speed bikes. The British did convert these bikes to 36/36 drilling in the mid-1970s, but a 40-hole and a 32-hole offering would be much appreciated in addition to the 36-hole drilling. 

I can't complain though. This rim represents another offering in a size that has periodically struggled to be reproduced.  For those willing to use a 36-hole wheel on a vintage English 3-speed, these rims have a pleasing look and may help keep old 3-speed bikes needing new rims on the road awhile longer.

 Alesa rims are available as of June 2025 on eBay through certain sellers in the USA. They sell there in the $25 - $30 (US dollars) range each.

Alesa rims - a narrow "Westrick" shape in an Endrick size

 

Raleigh Sports Model 35 Bike - An Economical Gem

1947 Raleigh Model 35 Sports

I am dedicating this short article to the Raleigh Model 35 bicycle, which was Raleigh's budget model "Sports" touring bike in the 1930s and 40s. 

1940: the Basic Model 35 with and without optional chain guard

The Model 35 was a bare bones variation on the much-loved Raleigh Sports three speed bike concept. Whereas the Sports offered the choice of a chain guard or a full chain case, lights, racks, bags, and bells, the Model 35 offered more basic transportation.

1930s-40s era head badge

The Model 35 retained Raleigh's excellent quality features: a lugged and brazed frame, stainless steel spokes, cable/caliper brakes with double-ended cables, and Sturmey Archer rear hub. But everything "extra" was removed. There were generally no lights, no racks, and no chain guards.  The Model 35 provided economical transportation to regular, working people and students just looking for a basic bike.

Endrick rims 

This 1947 Raleigh Model 35 is true to basic form: a good quality bike lacking period extras. The bike lacks a chain guard. The low-profile A16 (non-GC) spindle and low offset crank indicate this bike never had a chain guard. 

Low-offset crank 

Originally, this bike probably had a horsehair mattress saddle, but I have added a Brooks B66 leather saddle to make it more comfortable. The B66 would have been an appropriate period upgrade for longer rides. I have also add a simple Acorn canvas bag and some modern/retro LED lights. 

Although basic by Raleigh standards, still a well-made crankset

 

The bike retains its old, cloth-covered brake cables. The bike also has the old-style top tube shifter, which would have been the more traditional and basic option compared to the newer handlebar shifters of the 1940s. 

A well-preserved (but still dusty) fender

Overall, this bike is an excellent rider. It is a very basic bike, but what is present is very well-built. The Model 35 is often forgotten today in favor of the better-equipped models like the Sports Tourist, Superbe Sports Tourist, and the Superbe Dawn Tourist. Collectors love the extra features included on those bikes. But this Model 35 reminds us that a more basic bike is worth preserving, and can be a wonderful rider and addition to any collection. 

1947 Model 35 Raleigh

 

Better Weather - Summer Begins

 

Summer weather is finally starting here in western New England. The second half of May was unseasonably cool and very rainy. This week's temperatures have been much warmer and the rain has stayed away (so far). 

I've been putting the recently rebuilt 1960 Schwinn Traveler through its paces, and really putting the miles on it. I've tightened a couple screws that loosened a bit, and am still fooling with the tire pressures to make them more comfortable.  I had to replace a faulty set of AAA batteries in one of the lights as well. These old bikes always take at least a few rides to nail everything down.

But the signs point to this being a nice, solid, comfortable bike once everything is dialed-in.

 

Thoughts on Stem Height - American Three Speed Bikes

 

One of the drawbacks of the American-made three speed bikes is the bikes often come with stems too short to allow for much handlebar height adjustment. The British three speeds often come with stems allowing a bit more bar height adjustment.

On taller frames, this may not be an issue. For example, this 1960 Schwinn Traveler has a tall frame and, unless the rider is very tall, the bar height generally does not need much adjustment. 

In contrast, this 1950 Schwinn Superior has a "standard" frame of around 22 inches. The chances of a rider wanting taller bars, whether due to rider height or wanting a more upright ride, is greater with this standard-sized frame. 

In those cases, I recommend looking for a taller stem. In some cases, originals are available, but sometimes a good reproduction or a newer stem will also work. In this case, I am using a good quality reproduction of the Schwinn "razor" stem that is substantially taller than most of the originals. This gives me a substantial amount of handlebar height adjustment, so I can set the bars how I like them. These stems are still sometimes found in unused condition on eBay the Classic & Antique Bicycle Exchange, and other sources. Many were made for reproduction Schwinn Phantoms and balloon tire bikes in the 1990s. The quality is not quite as good as the originals, but it is still much better than most reproductions. I tend to prefer a more upright ride in the style and tradition of the British utility bikes and roadsters.

Other options include stems from Nitto (good quality), Sunlite (passable quality), and generic makers (usually pretty rough), usually from Japan, Taiwan, or mainland China. I recommend spending the extra money on a good stem. A stem failure or improper fit can lead to accidents and serious injuries. If you are unsure on how to source and fit a stem properly, get help from a competent mechanic. You can severely injure yourself if you improperly fit a stem.

A good quality seat post also should be used if you plan to raise the saddle more than a few inches. Schwinn originals are generally good, but even better are the modern BMX-inspired Cr-Mo seat posts. This particular bike has a Cr-Mo seat post from Porkchop BMX shop. It has the usual 13/16" Schwinn frame size, and a 7/8" top for use with standard saddle clamps.

Even with this additional adjustment, some riders are just too tall for the standard 21 or  22 inch frames. In those cases, the rider should go to the tall frame bikes, even if those are more difficult to find today. 

The bottom line is that even though you may own a vintage American three speed bike, don't be afraid to make the ergonomics work for you. 

 

 

1960 Schwinn Traveler Three Speed

I recently rebuilt this 1960 Schwinn Traveler three speed. 

This bike came from a collector in Missouri, who had in turn purchased it from an auction near St. Louis last year. The bike appears to have been used to deliver newspapers at one time, as it came with rear-mounted newspaper baskets that dented the rear fenders.

 

This bike involved the usual work, plus a few extras. 

Everything was cleaned. All the mechanical parts were given fresh oil/grease.  The paint was carefully touched up in places. Aluminum parts were polished to be shiny again. What little rust was on the chrome was carefully removed. The stainless steel fenders were straightened and polished. The bike got fresh brake pads, brake cables/housings, tubes, and tires. Those are the "usual" things.

 

This project required a couple of extra items. The rear fender rivets were damaged and there were some cracks/splits in the fenders around them. This appears to be due to the weight of the newspaper baskets on the fenders. The fender eyelets were reinforced with stainless steel washers, with the washers sealed into place with two-part, clear epoxy. Rivet-screws were used to replace the old rivets. 

Then there is the faceted, plastic early 1960s headbadge. The original badge was broken during shipping, so I replaced it with a new-old stock faceted badge. These Schwinn plastic badges were glued into place. I took the suggestion of a couple other collectors and used a glue called "E6000" to glue the new badge into place. While the glue was drying, I used zip ties to hold the headbadge in place.

If you think the headbadge looks a little off-center, your eyes are not deceiving you. The mounting holes for the badge were drilled a bit off-center in the head tube at the factory. They're never quite perfect...

Another change is the rear hub. This bike came with the Sturmey Archer tri-coaster hub common on late 1950s and early 1960s American-made bikes. I replaced the tri-coaster with a good Sturmey Archer AW dating to the correct year of 1960. This provides a more reliable hub. I also prefer the AW's freewheel mechanism with a rear brake caliper over a coaster brake. 

 

The original rims are in great shape. 

I have my usual favorite saddle - the B66 - on the bike, along with a Banjo Brothers Barrel saddle bag. A  period Cadillac badge pin is added to the bag for a period 1950s-60s touch.

Lights are a Kiley chrome LED headlight and Soma Fabrications stainless rocket/bullet tail light, for period touches with modern lighting capability.  

 

 Overall, I am happy with this bike. It has the typical, flashy 1950s-60s Schwinn look. The ornate decals are a little faded, but still in decent condition. This one is a good rider, as is the case with my other Travelers.

 

Specs:

• 23/24-inch, men's, steel (welded) frame. 
• 26 inch wheels
• Schwinn hour glass front hub. Sturmey Archer 1960 AW rear.
• Weinmann Schwinn Approved 810 aluminum brake calipers
•  Weinmann Schwinn Approved "red dot" brake levers
• Schwinn S5 steel rims
• Kenda white wall S5/S6 tires
• Sunlite steel/alloy brake pads
• Brooks B66 leather saddle
  
• Banjo Brothers Barrel Bag 
• Kiley Chrome LED headlight
• Soma Fabrications rocket/bullet  LED tail light 
• MKS 3000S 1/2 spindle pedals
• Origin8 brass striker bell 
• Cr-Mo seat post with 7/8" top.

Vintage Bicycles and Hills

Occasionally I get questions about vintage bikes and hilly terrain. I get questions like "aren't they too heavy?", or "don't you need more 10 speeds?", or "old bikes were only for flat areas, weren't they?". You can ride up and down hills successfully (and comfortably) with your old bike. 

 

Here are a few tips:

•  Don't be afraid to add multi-gear hubs to your bicycle. Many older bikes were single-speed models. Unless you absolutely must have an original rear hub, try adding a three speed (or more) internal gear hub. If you don't want to mess with your original wheels, build a spare wheel set with a geared hub. That way you have a "rider" set and an original set. 

• Choose a lower gearing that is comfortable for you. My bikes all have larger rear cogs (20 to 24 teeth size range) to help lower the gearing and assist with climbing hills. I have several bikes geared with 48 teeth in front, 22 teeth in the back. I have several others with 46 teeth in front and 22 teeth in back. I have one bike with 48 teeth in front and 24 teeth in back. All of them offer better hill climbing than the stock 18-tooth Sturmey Archer rear cog. Some bikers opt for smaller front sprockets - also OK so long as it fits your drive train.
  

• Have a good set of brakes. Remember that going uphill often means going back downhill at some point.
  

• Have a comfortable saddle. Many vintage saddles are either too narrow for casual riding (as is the case on many old track or race bikes), or too wide for climbing effectively (as is the case on many bikes that have large saddles inspired by motorcycles). Often, a comfortable saddle is of moderate width and is supple yet supportive. I prefer the Brooks B66 and B67 saddles, but also use B72s, B73s, and Gyes tourist saddles. A saddle that is too narrow will not allow you to ride upright comfortably and a saddle that is too side will not allow full range of motion for your legs.
  

• Don't be afraid to experiment. Sometimes the most comfortable bike is one with a combination of features you did not expect would necessarily work well for you. 
  

• Keep your chain and bearings clean and lubricated properly. Less friction means less lost energy.
  

• Keep your tires properly inflated. 
  

• Ride "through" the back side of the hill in front of you. Don't aim at the top of the hill, push yourself through the crest and keep pedaling while aiming for a point somewhere on the back side of the hill. This is akin to "following through" on your golf, baseball, or cricket swing.  
  

• Pace yourself on the hill from the start. Don't sprint into the hill only to run out of energy halfway up. Steady is better than fast and burned out.
  

• Become familiar with where you like to shift the internal gear hub. After awhile, you will get a feel for when you like to shift - speed, number of pedal revolutions, etc. If you have a feel for that, you will know when to shift when heading up hill. Try a couple shorter rides before tackling a challenging one. 
  

• If you can safely do it, use a "switch-back" method on larger hills. Although it is slower, you can take the teeth out of some hills by riding back and forth up the grade in an "s" turn type pattern. It will take you longer to get to the top, but it will also lessen the steepness of the hill by stretching the climb out over a longer distance traveled. Do NOT attempt this on a busy road where the switch-back will take you out into traffic.

• Don't be afraid to try new technology when planning your ride. There are new map and device applications that help give you an idea of the terrain where you are riding. Don't be afraid to try those before you ride, to get an idea of what kind of hills you will encounter.
  

• Lastly, don't be afraid to get off and walk the bike. If you feel overwhelmed or you begin to feel pain or the effects of injury, don't force yourself to continue. It is OK to sometimes dismount and walk the bike up very steep hills. 
  

I live in an area where there is rolling, hilly terrain just about everywhere. I've had great luck on this 1957 Schwinn Traveler three speed, similar to my other internal gear hub tourist bikes. I lower the gearing, make sure the brakes are good and everything is serviced, and keep riding.