Lessons from History: the Ending of the Bike Boom - Lessons Missed?

 

Introduction 

The old saying goes that history "repeats itself", especially for the ignorant or the unwary. I don't believe history "exactly" repeats itself, but mistakes forgotten are indeed often mistakes repeated. The bicycle industry is no exception. 

 

The COVID Boom 

The COVID pandemic changed many things, including the landscape for bicycle use and sales. As the pandemic took hold and governments worldwide ordered lock-downs ranging from "optional" to downright draconian, the demand for bicycles surged. Bicycles provided an excellent outdoor activity that could be done solo, or at the very least, at a healthy distance from other people. At first it seemed as though there might be a renaissance at hand for bicycling among people who might otherwise not be apt to try it. In some places bicycling, running, and walking were just about the only kind of leisure activity people could do under some of the more draconian lock-down orders.

 Demand for bicycles boomed. Retailers and wholesalers ramped up orders and factories struggled to keep pace. Orders from retailers and wholesalers were filled on a delayed basis, with bikes arriving months after expected delivery dates. The bike industry struggled to keep up with the changes, all while selling more bikes in a few months than typically sold over the course of years. 

But as the pandemic faded in the face of improving treatments and vaccinations for COVID, the demand for bicycles waned. Wholesalers and retailers became stuck with warehouses of bicycles they could not sell. Suppliers and factories received fewer and fewer orders. At the same time, demand for electric bicycles cut into the demand for conventional bikes, exacerbating an already difficult situation for retailers. 

Today, even five years after the height of the pandemic,  retailers and suppliers continue to struggle with inventory. COVID era over-ordering, delayed deliveries, and a drop-off in demand have left retailers flush with bicycles, but with fewer buyers. Electric bicycles also continue to make headway, sometimes replacing conventional bicycles for consumers. 

For those who had been in the bike industry a long time, or those with some knowledge of its history, this all may have seemed familiar... 

 

 The End of the 1970s Bike Boom

 In the USA between 1970 and 1975, a brief but noticeable "bike boom" occurred. Prior to 1965, adult bicycling in the USA was a very small hobby. Sheldon Brown recalls on his website that, at least around 1960, it was unusual enough to find another adult bicyclists that it was normal to stop on the street and talk to the person. Yet by the mid-1970s, Time Magazine described how bicycling had gone through the largest increase in the invention's 150+ year history. What came in between was the "bike boom".

In 1970, the vast majority of bicycles sold in the USA were still children's bikes. Out of the estimated 7.0 million bikes sold, 5.5 million were kids' bikes. The remaining 1.5 million was a mixture of adult balloon tire cruisers, specialty track bikes, adult road bikes, and other bikes. Only about 200,000 adult derailleur and internal gear hub bikes were sold in 1970.

Yet by 1972 - only two years later - total bike sales had doubled to 14 million. Of that total, adult lightweight bicycles sales had increased 40-times over - an extraordinary increase - to 8 million such bikes. Time remarked that for the first time since the 1890s, adult bicycles accounted for almost one-half of all production. 

Bicycle demand began to wane in 1973, but then an oil crisis gripped the USA, somewhat bolstering the failing demand by encouraging adult bicycle use for hobby, and in the cities for transportation. The bicycle industry continued to ramp up production during the course of 1973 and into 1974.

Yet by 1975, the boom had turned into a bust. Demand for bicycles dropped, leaving retailers flush with inventory and forcing the cancellation of orders. Factories, which had ramped up production from 1972 through 1974, found themselves with bicycles they could not sell to wholesalers, stores, and dealers.  

A 1975 Schwinn report nicely captures the atmosphere in which this bust took place. Each year, Schwinn dealers would meet to discuss business. The 1975 dealers' meeting must have included a great deal of discussion about market changes (the "bust") because the annual report from that meeting delves deeply into the state of the market.

Executive Ray Burch's introduction to the 1975 Annual Report describes a situation in flux. The economy had gone from inflation to recession over the course of 1974. In the second half of 1974, Schwinn had cut production back, but unsold inventory continued to pile up. In Burch's estimate, the bike boom had ended. He pegged the dates of the "boom" as being from 1971 through mid-1974. Burch raised the possibility that manufacturers had over-produced bicycles, at least in 1974.

Schwinn's studies showed that in 1970, about 17% of bicycle sales were aimed at people age 15 years and older. This jumped to 34% in 1971, increased to 50% in 1972, plateaued at 52% in 1973, down to 51% in 1974, and down further to 46% in 1975. 

Dealers must have complained about inventory stacking up in 1974, because the 1975 report discusses the piling up of inventory and what to do next. Schwinn also studied the impact of the oil crisis and growth of households owning more than one automobile. Schwinn attempted to measure the number of bicycles actually in use in the USA (not just bought and sitting in a garage), but found that number difficult to determine. Schwinn tried to rely on U.S. News & World Reports for that statistic, but still had difficulty getting any kind of precise reading on bicycle use.

Schwinn's reports show it operated at somewhat reduced production in the second half of 1974 and into 1975. Ray Burch's report also notes that regular production levels would not be resumed until dealers had reduced inventories to a more sustainable level. Schwinn's reports also contain a measure of internal debate whether market "saturation" had taken place, or whether demand might rebound in 1975 and 1976. Gloomier estimates also questioned whether the newly-found adult bike market might not actually be permanent. 

Schwinn also studied inventory on the floor of Schwinn dealers nationwide as of January 1, 1975. Although this did not capture all shops, it at least gave Schwinn a snapshot of what was sitting on the floor of retailers selling Schwinn products.  Around 387,500 bicycles were sitting inventoried across just over 1,600 dealerships on January 1, 1975. By the standards of the time, this was a massive number. Schwinn somewhat tried to sugarcoat this by claiming that it was "normal" to have about 300,000 Schwinn bicycles sitting unsold. Still, even by Schwinn's generous allowance, there was a substantial amount of overstock. 

Other brands with substantial sitting inventory were Raleigh, Peugeot, Nishiki, and Ross. Considering that Schwinn dealerships were encouraged not to sell other brands, this did not give a complete picture of the number of "other" brands sitting unsold. The largest American makers of bicycles at the time included Murray, Huffman ("Huffy"), AMF, Schwinn, Columbia/Westfield, and Chain Bike. All were suffering in the bust. Schwinn's closing remarks from the meeting admitted that a "reappraisal" of the US market was required.  

Eventually production and demand would gradually balance out over the course of the late 1970s and early 1980s. But much damage had been done. Large numbers of 10-speed style road bikes (and 3-speed internal gear hub bikes) had been produced. Yet many remained unsold or months or even years after the end of the boom. Unfortunately, these bikes were ill-positioned to take advantage of the growing interest in BMX and mountain bikes that occurred in the late 1970s and into the 1980s.  

 

 A Lesson Missed?

 What, if anything, can be taken away from all this? First, the bicycle industry has continued to be subject to "whiplash" supply and demand. When a boom hits, or a pandemic drive up demand, the industry engages in one-step-behind production, which then meets a cliff when the boom goes bust. This happened in both the 1970s boom and in the COVID boom. Demand for bicycles seems to be very "elastic", as an economist would say - that is, highly sensitive to price changes and even outside forces.

Second, the current market environment is even more chaotic than its 1970s-era ancestor. At least in the 1970s, there was a degree of centralization in bicycle producers that gave them the ability to study and respond at all levels to market changes. These companies may have been somewhat slow-moving dinosaurs, but at least they had the ability to control supply at the level of raw materials and component consumption. In contrast, most bicycle producers today only produce a frame, which limits their ability to respond to market changes because they have so many more supply and component orders than their 1970s counterparts. 

Third, retailers still face the sharp-edge of the market. Bicycle retailers, particularly those with physical shops, have to deal with overhead and expenses in the face of small margins and wildly changing demand. Plenty of retailers went under in the 1970s bust, and so too did plenty of them in the post-COVID bust. Unfortunately, the small businessperson always seems to shoulder the lion's share of the risk. Dealers today are just as apt to try to "read the tea leaves" of boom and bust as they were at the 1975 Schwinn annual meeting. 

Fourth, there may be a more predatory aspect to today's bicycle market. The 1975 Schwinn meeting shows that Schwinn did care about the success of its dealer network and at least made some effort to make them successful. Certainly a shop had to earn and perform, but Schwinn at least was trying to give information and tools to its dealers to cushion the bust. Today, bicycle wholesalers and suppliers seem to deal with retailers more at arm's length. If a bike shop is successful, then great. But if the shop goes under, time to just move on to the next one that will buy. Some even go so far as to compete with retailers by offering internet direct-to-consumer sales. 

In the end, I don't think much has been learned from these bike "busts". Perhaps for awhile the post-COVID bust will stick in the minds of retailers and producers, but 10, 20, or 30 years from now, we'll probably still be talking about bicycle market whiplash, and the occasional cycles of boom and bust. 

 

1970s Raleigh Sports Bikes - Classics on a Budget

 A bicycle does not necessarily have to be expensive to be a good rider. This is also true of classic bicycles. 

There are the stories of extraordinary finds - the Schwinn Paramount Tourist found in a dumpster (about 10 years ago) is an extreme example, but more mundane finds still turn up online, at tag sales, and discount-used shops. 

 

On the road with a 1974 Raleigh Sports

Perhaps my favorite class of "classics on a budget" are 1970s era Raleigh three speed bikes. I bought this 1974 Raleigh Sports in 2003 for $30. It started out as a more basic bike. I subsequently added a Dynohub, lights, rack, B66 saddle, bell, and a saddle bag. But for $30 as the bike arrived, it was a basic and functional bike.

 

A mall kiosk lapel pin is an inexpensive but nice touch on the bag

I previously have defended these 1970s Raleighs. Sometimes they are maligned compared to their 1950s and 60s forerunners. Although Raleigh cheapened production values of these bikes over time, the 1970s bikes - particularly the early and middle 1970s bikes - are still good machines. They still have the reliable Sturmey Archer hubs and lugged steel construction. They still have the helpful fenders/mudguards, chain guards, and reflectors. Some have pump pegs or pump clamps. Pletscher/ESGE Raleigh kickstands provide stable and reliable parking.

 

Uneven surfaces are no match for the reliable ESGE Raleigh stand

These bikes often sell for substantially less than earlier bikes. Collectors tend to focus on earlier machines, while more pragmatic "rider" bikes were produced through the 1970s and into the 1980s. For the person who just wants a classic, reliable bike to ride, a $50 Raleigh Sports from 1974 is just as good as a $500 Superbe from 1948. Not everything in life is about collector cachet...

 

 The 1970s bikes also make good platforms to upgrade. For example, my 1974 Sports has an upgraded headlight with an LED bulb and a parking/stand light feature. The traditional Dynohub powers the upgraded light (and the traditional tail light) just fine. The 1970s bikes also feature the same 21-inch and 23-inch frame choices as earlier bikes. A 23-inch frame is a great choice for riders of average height or taller. I am not especially tall, but love the 23-inch frame on 26-inch wheels of my 1974 Sports.

B&M Lumotec Classic headlight makes the most of a Dynohub

Middle and later 1970s bikes also have hubs and rims with 36-hole drillings. This opens up more possibilities for rim upgrades. Rims like the Alesa, Weinmann, and Sun/Ringle are often found in 36-hole drillings, but much less commonly 32/40 today. 

A 1970s bike, but still instantly recognizable as a classic Raleigh

Twenty-two years later, I am still enjoying this 1974 Sports. I've put thousands of miles on this bike, and it keeps going strong. I paid $30 for it, plus more for upgrades. But that was certainly money well-spent, even if on a bike many collectors would write-off. That's fine with me - it helps keep these 1970s Sports bikes affordable for the more casual collector and rider. 

 

1966 Raleigh Sports - a Facebook Market Find

 Autumn is beginning to set in here in western New England. I am still getting rides in, but also starting to think about winter projects - what I might like to work on during the cold, dark months. I came across this 1966 Raleigh Sports over the weekend on Facebook Market. It is in decent condition, but as with all the other old bikes I locate, will need some work to put it back on the road. 

 

I am impressed with some of the parts on this bike that often turn up damaged: light set, handlebar grips, leather saddle, etc. 

 

This winter, I have two definite projects: 1966 Raleigh Sports and 1948 Raleigh Sports. I also have one possible project: 1965 Schwinn Deluxe Racer. The Deluxe Racer is for sale as a project on the usual bike exchange websites, but if there are no takers, I'll probably refurbish the Schwinn and put it back on the road myself.

 

A Few Ride Photos from this Week...

 Not much new to report - just a few ride photos from this week.

1947 Raleigh Model 35

1960 Schwinn Traveler

25% Off Summer Stuff... Sign that Fall is Arriving

1964 Schwinn Traveler

An evening photo... some color on the trees now.

1964 Schwinn Traveler - matching dice valve caps

 

Guide to Oil for Vintage Bicycles

Oil is an essential part of maintaining certain kinds of vintage bicycles, particularly old style three speed utility, commuter, and sporting bikes. 

The classic Sturmey Archer three speeds used oil lubrication, as did Austrian, British, and Swiss, knock-offs of the classic Sturmey hubs. Classic New Departure coaster brakes, a staple of vintage American balloon tire and middleweight bikes, also used oil lubrication. And then there is the plethora of British and American-made front hubs that allowed introduction of fresh oil through ports. And let us not forget about the many classic British bicycles that had oil ports in their bottom brackets. 

In short, if you are going to own and maintain a classic bicycle, it helps to know about the different oils offered today. Gone are the days where one or two types of oil dominated the field. The choices today are myriad. 

 

 Light Oils - Good for Tight Bolts and Tight Spaces

 Light oil is an essential shop tool. Although some light oils are good lubricants, most are used more for loosening stuck bolts than for lubricating moving parts (an exception is noted below). 

Kano Kroil is an excellent choice for loosening stuck screws, bolts, nuts, etc. Kroil is a very thin, penetrating oil. It can be used with gentle heat to free stuck bolts and screws. Although Kroil is very good at these tasks, keep in mind Kroil is not a lubricant to be used in your hub or bottom bracket. 

 

WD40 is a classic choice for free stuck bolts and screws, though my experience has been that Kroil does a better job in that department. Where WD40 excels is repelling or displacing moisture. In fact, the "WD" stands for "Water Displacement". WD40 also helps remove rust when combined with 0000 steel wool, bronze wool, or copper wool. WD40 also is not a true "lubricant" in the sense that you would use it in your hub or bottom bracket. WD40 can be used to clean out dirty hubs or bottom brackets, but it should not be used in place of a lubricating medium oil. Think of WD40 as a cleaner, rust remover, and water displacer. 

 

 

A word about Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone: for many years, a mixture of ATF and acetone has been cited as the most powerful freer of stuck bolts and nuts. My experience has been that such a mixture is an effective freer of stuck bolts and nuts, but that Kano Kroil is more reliable, better at handling heat, and less aggressive with painted surfaces (the acetone component in the ATF-Acetone mixture will destroy paint). ATF-acetone mixture should be used only in situations where no painted surfaces are at risk. I find Kroil more convenient in just about every category of use. 

 

 

Tri-Flow is that "exception" I noted above to the rule that very thin oils mainly are used for removing stuck parts. Tri-Flow is a PTFE lubricant that is very thin. It comes in a small bottle with a thin straw. It excels at lubricating parts where other oils will not penetrate. For example, I refresh brake calipers on bikes at the start of each season with a drop of Tri-Flow. The Tri-Flow works into the tight spaces of an assembled and tensioned caliper without having to loosen any of the parts as you would with grease. Tri-Flow also excels at lubricating fixed-length Sturmey Archer cables and Raleigh pattern brake cables. A few drops of Tri-Flow keeps the cables moving in their housings without any disassembly. Tri-Flow also is great at stopping a squeaking saddle - a few drops go in the metal-metal joints of the saddle carriage, such as one would find on a Brooks B66, B67, or B73. Use Tri-Flow in those tight spaces where disassembly is impossible or inconvenient. Tri-Flow also can be used to lubricate a clean but dry old bike chain.

 

 

One-Step - cleans and lubricates chains: One-Step is a combined lubricant and cleaner for bicycle chains. I use it in conjunction with a stiff, plastic bristle chain cleaning brush to clean and lubricate dirty chains. One-Step is not something I would use to lubricate a bottom bracket or brake caliper. It is very thin, but it does very nicely when following product directions on chains.

 

 

Medium Oil: Lifeblood of Internal Gear Hubs

 

 

Three-in-One Oil, be sure to get the right bottle: 3-in-1 oil is probably the classic all-purpose medium bicycle oil. But did you know that one blend of 3-in-1 is superior to the others for bicycle uses? Although 3-in-1 advertises its general purpose, black-white-red colored bottle as being for bicycles, the blue bottle ("motor") oil is superior for almost all bicycle uses. That is because the black-white-red, all-purpose oil tends to congeal over time and attract more dust. The blue "motor" oil bottle provides superior lifespan in almost all bicycle uses. This is especially true for lubricating old hubs, such as Sturmey Archer three speeds and Raleigh front hubs. Medium 3-in-1 can also be used to refresh brake calipers, especially older Raleigh and Schwinn-built steel calipers that use fiber or rubber washers (Tri-Flow also works well for this - as noted above). 

 

SAE 20 and 30 motor oils, another option: motor oil also is not a bad choice for lubrication. SAE 20 works fine in Sturmey Archer three speeds (in fact, 3-in-1 blue bottle motor oil is SAE 20 oil). SAE 30 can be used in bottom brackets, if you don't mind the mess. (I prefer a good grease in bottom brackets for ease of maintenance, but oil works too). Did you know that you can oil a Raleigh bottom bracket without an oiler cap? You can buy a plastic flexible tube, send the plastic tube down the bicycle's seat tube, thereby dropping in the oil from above. It makes a mess, but it will lubricate your hub if you have no easier route available. My advice, if using motor oil, is to use regular "SAE oil", not a variable weight oil like 10W-30 or a synthetic oil. If you have no other choice, those oils will work, but conventional SAW 20 and 30 weight oils are closer to the original formulation at the time your old bicycle was manufactured. 

 

Medium gear oil - a classic choice for New Departure type hubs: Did you know that New Departure's maintenance instructions for their classic coaster brakes called for gear oil? New Departure's classic coaster brake hubs operate using a series of small metal discs inside the hub, some stationary and some turning with the hub shell. When the rider pushes backwards on the pedals, a driver push that stack of discs together, causing friction between the station and the moving discs. Such a set up requires a medium oil that will allow the discs to separate when the rider pedals forward again. A medium weight oil or medium gear oil will keep these old hubs operating smoothly. Grease or oil can be used in the hub outer bearings (grease in the outer bearings helps keep the disc oil in better).  

 

Conclusion

Don't be afraid to keep a couple of different oils in your shop. Products like Kroil and WD40 can be used to free stuck bolts and keep rust at bay. Oils like Tri-Flow and 3-in-1 blue bottle can keep bike parts moving smoothly. A spare bottle of motor oil can keep your automobile and your bicycle on the road. Whatever you decide to use, stick to periodic maintenance schedules and keep track of what needs a drop of oil on your bike from time-to-time. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Guide to Greases for Vintage Bicycles

 

 Introduction

I am sometimes asked about the various options for grease and oil on vintage bicycles. In fact, my page devoted to oil for Sturmey Archer hubs is one of the more popular areas of this website. With all of the various colors and choices for grease on the market, the options can be confusing. This page is a brief summary of your grease and oil options, and my own thoughts on how the options work for vintage bike restoration. 

Grease: A Colorful Array of Options

For many years, at least in the USA, thick, brown axle grease was king. Old school brown axle grease was very thick, somewhat sticky, and only lasted a season or two before fouling and needing to be replaced. Axle grease also cooked off when subjected to high heat, such as heavy coaster brake use on long downhill stretches. Thankfully, the days when brown axle grease was the only option are long gone. Unless heavy, brown axle grease is your only option, I suggest choosing a more modern grease for bicycle bearings (including headsets, bottom brackets, and hubs).

Let's take a look at those more modern options.

 

• White Household Lithium Grease: This is probably the most common grease available in the USA today. White lithium grease is a medium consistence (NLGI 2 usually), with a short to medium lifespan. White lithium grease is acceptable in uses where part movement is occasional and where high temperatures are not present. White lithium grease can help lubricate brake caliper arms, brake levers, and brake cable cores. It usually lasts a couple ride seasons before it has to be refreshed. Household white lithium grease can be used on bearings in a pinch, but this should be avoided if possible because it has a relatively short lifespan. White lithium grease also can be prone to hardening and fouling if dirt and debris are encountered. White lithium grease also generally does not have very good oil and water wash-out resistance. This should be regarded solely as a "light duty" grease. 

 

• Red and "Tacky" Grease: This is a lithium grease of medium consistency (NLGI 2 rating). Red and Tacky grease is a big step up from household white grease. The longevity, corrosion resistance, wash-out resistance, and lubrication are all better than white grease. Red and tacky grease is suitable for bicycle bearings, particularly if the bicycle is well-maintained. This grease lasts a couple of seasons and then should refreshed. This grease does OK sitting, though it does thicken up a bit. I find red and tacky grease is a little too sticky for brake caliper arms and levers, though it will work OK in those applications. Some common "bicycle shop" greases belong in this lithium grease family, usually red in color. 

 

• Heavy Duty Green Polyurea  Grease: This grease is the next step up in durability above Red/Tacky grease (also medium NLGI 2 grease). Green polyurea grease is intended for intense uses where weather and adverse conditions are present, such as in factories or on farms. This grease is a little slicker than Red/Tacky grease. Lucas brand Xtra Heavy Duty green grease is my "go to" grease for bearings such as bottom brackets, pedals, and hub main bearings. Polyurea green grease has a long lifespan and holds up well to bicycles that need to run after sitting for an extended period of time. It also has good rust prevention qualities. It also is slick enough to work well on cable inners, brake calipers, and brake levers. 

 

• Does brand matter? Only to the extent that you have a reputable brand versus an unknown brand. Major brands of grease all do pretty well with bicycle uses. Compared to an industrial machine or farm equipment, bicycles are not all that demanding. With that being said, my experience with generic/off-branded grease is that they are not quite as good as the larger and more-established brands. For example, I recently encountered a tube of green generic grease (no real brand was shown on the label), which did not have the same resistance to hardening and dirt as Lucas. My advice is to stick with a brand you know - either an established large brand like Lucas, or a familiar store brand you've used before. Stay away from shady-looking, online suppliers of generic grease. It may not have the protection you're seeking for a treasured vintage bike. 

•  Do I need a bike-specific grease? No. The greases put out by bicycle parts and tool companies are generally very good greases, but they also tend to be more expensive. These greases are as good as the non-bike specific greases from major manufacturers and are basically the same thing as available in the auto parts store, home improvement store, or hardware store (support your local small business hardware store when ever you can). You can certainly buy a bike-specific grease and do just fine, but you'll be paying a bit more for the same result as you would with a quality grease from a major grease maker. You just pay more for that bicycle branding and convenience of the smaller tube.  

FYI: NLGI guide to greases: 

 

 

Oil versus Grease? 

• Oil versus grease - which is better? The basic rule is to use oil where the manufacturer specifically calls for oil and where very small parts need to be able to move freely.  For example, vintage Sturmey Archer AW hubs should not be coated in medium grease (NLGI 2 grease for example); oil them instead. For more information about oiling vintage Sturmey Archer hubs, see HERE. In some instances, a very thin grease (look for NLGI 0 or 00 grading), can be used on modern Sturmey Archer hubs. Some people even run very thin NLGI 00 greases on vintage hubs, but that is a matter of personal preference. My own preference is to use Lucas Xtra green grease on the outer bearings of the Sturmey Archer hubs, and to use 20-weight 3-in-1 blue bottle (motor) oil on the innards of the hubs. More information is available HERE.

 

 

 

 

Warm, Dry Weather Persists - Vintage Raleigh and Schwinn Content

Warm, dry weather has no equal when it comes to riding. The past couple of weeks have had perfect riding weather - a good thing when daylight is gradually getting into shorter supply and the riding season will eventually end next month. That means it is time to get as many good rides in as possible. 

This week's bicycles are already familiar to readers of this website: a 1970 Raleigh DL-1 and a 1960 Schwinn Traveler. The DL-1 has that "classic English roadster" ride to it, while the Schwinn has the typical solid feel of a welded frame, American-made three speed. 

1970 Raleigh DL-1

1960 Schwinn Traveler

A dry, dusty local road in September

 

Rolling Toward the End of Summer with Vintage Schwinn Three Speeds

The important thing this time of year is to keep fitting in time to ride. The weather here is still warm, and it has been pretty dry lately. The days are becoming shorter and eventually the season will end. We usually finish our ride season here some time in the second half of October. So for now, the goal is to get in rides on the good days and keep the latter part of the ride season active.

I rebuilt this 1960 Schwinn Traveler earlier this year. It came to me as a somewhat tired newspaper delivery bike that needed refurbishing. It came out beautifully and is a comfortable rider. It is a fairly heavy bike, typical of the 1950s-60s era welded Schwinn three speeds, but it fits me and functions wonderfully.

 

The 1947 Schwinn Continental three speed is a sportier bike. The frame is smaller and is made of fillet brazed Cr-Mo steel. The weight is reasonably light, considering it is a 1940s era touring bike. This bike offers a ride competitive with the English three speeds of its day. The quality is equal to a mid-level Raleigh bike from that time period, which is to say, very good.

 

 

Early Post-War Schwinn Lightweights - a Review

I have spent some time lately scanning my Schwinn and Raleigh catalogues into a digital format. I thought this entry would be a good place to show Schwinn's late 1940s-era touring bikes. These catalogues are a window into what was offered at the time, including bicycle configurations and parts.

 Schwinn heavily marketed its lightweights in the years just before and after WWII. While Schwinn focused more on the youth market in the 1950s, the 1940s marketed these bikes directly to adults. Schwinn recognized that with many veterans returning from Europe at the end of WWII, there was a potentially untapped market for adults in the US to begin riding British-style lightweight bikes.

Schwinn was proud of its three nameplates: Paramount, Continental, and New World. The "Superior" was briefly dropped after WWII, but re-emerged at the end of the 1940s as a mid-level bicycle. At the time of this catalogue, the Superior had not yet re-appeared.

Schwinn also had a proud racing heritage. The company highlighted its race wins and devoted a large spread to the Ignaz Schwinn Trophy prize. It helped that racing was a way to sell bikes as well. The Paramount racers were fully custom bikes made-to-order, aimed specifically at the track and race bicyclist. If you run across one of these bicycles today, care should be taken to keep it as original as possible. Each Paramount Racer is unique.

The Paramount Sports Tourist was a made-to-order bike aimed at the on-road sporting rider or hardcore bicycle tourist. These were custom-made bikes for the person who rode a lot on the rode and wanted the best American-made bicycle. European, British, and American equipment was available. If you come across one of these bicycles today, it should be kept as original as possible because each example is a unique, custom item.

The 1940s Continental should not be confused with the later 10-speed version. The 1940s Continental was a middle to high end, fillet brazed bicycle. These bicycles offered a high-quality, light machine available at a lower cost than the custom Paramount. These were factory-made bicycles, but still handmade in a special section of the Schwinn factory. These bicycles blend handmade craftsmanship with more mass production. If you come across one of these bicycles today, it should be kept as original as you can manage, while still making the bicycle suitable for riding. These bicycles have a moderate value in today's market. 

 The Schwinn New World was Schwinn's basic bicycle. It was meant to compete with the basic Raleigh Sports, Hercules light tourist, etc. These bicycles come in a very wide range of equipment and fittings. The New World was available as a three-piece crank bike, as above, or as a one-piece crank bike, as below. The example above shows an unusual set of white fenders, which was a two-tone option. If you come across one of these bicycles today, keep it as original as you can while still making it a good rider for your needs. These bicycles are not terribly expensive today, though pristine examples do have a moderate value approaching that of a good Continental.

The New World was available with everything from multispeed Sturmey Archer hubs, down to the basic, single-speed coaster brake. New Worlds with multispeed hubs and hand brakes are generally more valuable than coaster brake models. But Schwinn made a New World for every budget. The above example is the basic model: single-speed coaster brake, no hand brakes, and paint-matched fenders. Keep these bicycles as original as you can while still putting them back on the road and making them safe.

 Conclusion

Schwinn was serious about quality lightweight touring and racing bikes in the 1940s. These bicycles are not toys. They were serious touring and racing bicycles in their day, and they offer collectors a challenge to assemble a good example of each model. The variations of fittings and models is seemingly endless in these bikes. They should not be overlooked by the person who wants to collect vintage bicycles, or ride a classic. 

 

 

 

 

 

Raleigh and Schwinn Content - Three Speed Bikes

A few photos from some nice riding weather this week. The temperature has dropped and it is quite comfortable. I took out this 1958 Raleigh Sports and 1960 Schwinn Traveler. The Sports has that traditional, British look, while the Traveler is much more American in styling.

1958 Raleigh Sports

1958 Sports along a trail

 

1960 Schwinn Traveler in the shade