Review: Acorn Bags Small Saddle Bag

 

I recently picked up a couple examples of the Acorn brand "Small Saddle Bag". This bag is canvas and leather, with a zipper closure and pull-over external flap. 

This bag is a nice balance of quality and price. It comes in as a more expensive bag than the Banjo Brothers Barrel Bag, but smaller and less expensive than the Carradice saddle bags. It's a mid-range bag above the budget area of the market, but below the luxury level.

 

The canvas is thick, and the leather is substantial on this bag. The straps that come with the bag are pretty heavy duty. The canvas and leather are appropriately colored, without serious fading or staining anywhere. The bag is available in a couple of colors, including black (this one) and medium brown. This black and tan bag goes nicely with the tan leather saddle on this 1942 Schwinn New World three speed bike.

 

This bag is also nice because it has an "under the springs" type shape that drops in nicely between the bottom of the saddle, top of the rear fender, and the seat post. It's perfect for those bikes where you raise the saddle up a little, giving you a little more storage than is offered by the Banjo Brothers Barrel Bag (the Banjo Brothers Barrel Bag itself is an excellent, compact option for riders on a budget).

 

I give the Acorn Small Saddle Bag a hearty thumbs-up. It captures a vintage look, is made with good quality materials, and drops in nicely between the budget-minded Banjo Brothers, and the more luxurious and larger Carradice offerings.

1942 Schwinn New World and Old Bike Rebuild Philosophy

 

"Each Old Bike is a Unique Case"

Every old bike you work on is an individual case, especially with older bikes made prior to the 1970s, where parts and other examples become increasingly scarce. One bike might be an original that is complete and in excellent condition. Those you'll want to simply preserve as best you can. Other bikes may be missing parts or need repairs, or have parts that have been swapped. Those cases are good for doing something a little more individualized, but still adhering to some basic historical parameters. Still other bikes might be a bare frame or heavily modified already. In those instances, it might be fine to go with a full-custom bike. Decide based on what's in front of you and not on some fixed-in-stone notion that you "must" do or not do something.

This 1942 New World arrived as a frame, fork, and fender set. The idea here is to preserve as much as I can, while supplementing the bike in a way that is historically respectful to the time period and practical to get the bike back on the road in a comfortable and safe form. Going for a 100% perfect, WWII rebuild would result in the frame and fork sitting for months (or years) while I cast about for parts dating to precisely 1942 for a Schwinn New World model bike. I'd rather have a bicycle than a wall hanger...

"Historically Acceptable Practicality"

This principle is a primary guide. Look for period parts or quality period type reproduction parts that also will allow you to ride the bike comfortably and safely. Look for parts that fit in with the time period, but that also work and won't break the bank. Remember that you've already decided you don't need to go out and find 100% original parts for that particular model and year, so you have some flexibility to get this bike back on the road in an acceptable (even if not 100% perfect) way.

Let's take the example of this 1942 New World. The rims are chrome Schwinn S6 rims. The S6 is a rim more from the later 1940s, and chrome only was used in very limited circumstances on bikes during WWII. However, these rims also are in excellent condition, straight, and appropriate for a late 1940s bike. They capture the overall decade while also making for a good riding set of wheels. 

The Sturmey Archer AW hub is from the 1950s, but again is technologically very close to a 1940s bike. AW hubs were made from the 1930s onward, though this bike probably had a single speed coaster brake originally. The hand brakes are "Schwinn Built" steel calipers from just after WWII. It's not all year-perfect, but it's all vintage and all technology from the time period. The gears are needed to ride the bike where I live, and it's nice having a set of working caliper handbrakes when you're headed down a hill and the speed is pushing 30 or 35 mph. 

The Gyes leather saddle is a copy of a Brooks B73 and similar saddles from other makers - classic triple spring roadster saddle from the 1930s - 60s. A new leather saddle lets you ride in confidence knowing that an 80+ year old saddle isn't going to break up underneath you while riding along. It also captures a time period look.

New brake and shifter cables help make the bike safe. A dark colored housing is used so as not to stand out as too "bright" and "plasticy". New brake pads blend in and help stop the bike better than old.

 

"Historical Aesthetic"

Ask yourself what the predominant design styles of the period of manufacture would have been. Was art deco still a major force? Or were designs more of a "streamlined" type? Or was it more "mid-century", with lots of chrome and high-contrast bright work? What about colors - was this a period of bright "candy" type colors, or was it a more conservative time?

Use period catalogs and other examples to get an idea of what will go well with the bike from that time period. 

In the case of this 1942 New World for example, the dark red color was typical of the 1940s period, and the silver wing was a popular motif in the 1930s-40s. The WWII themed Army Air Corps/Force lapel pin on the bag also adds a period touch, as do the reproduction teardrop or aircraft wing cross-section type pedals. 

And the light set - retro LED type lights. It's important to be seen while riding alongside automobile traffic. Bright LED lights that flash add a level of safety, while the tear drop and torpedo housings match a 1930s-50s aesthetic. Remember, we want to capture the designs of the time period, but we also want to be safe while riding on the road.

The Sturmey Archer quadrant shifter is at home on a 1930s-40s era bike. This bike may have been a single speed coaster at one time, but with the three speed hub, a Sturmey Quadrant shifter is perfect for historical appearance and function.  

Dark brake cable housings blend in with the bike and match the black "Schwinn" grips. Traditional black rubber brake pads with metal housings blend in while also helping to stop the bike because they are fresh rubber.

Pre-WWII Schwinn Superior handlebars represent a period upgrade, are comfortable, and match the look of the bike.

 

"Respectful Restoration / Work"

I often use the term "respectful" describing the work to be done on a project. As I mention above, you need to respect the age of the project, condition, time period trends, as well as safety and rider comfort. Original paint and parts should be preserved while also supplemented in a way sympathetic to the bike and time period as a whole.

Why I don't Like the Term "Resto-Mod"

A term thrown around a lot in automobile restoration world these days is "resto-mod", which generally means the car is partially restored to period specs, but partially modified for performance, safety, or other reasons. At first, this would seem like a way of describing the ideas discussed above, but I disagree with that assertion.

The reason I disagree, is that I see so many "resto-mod" vehicles that venture too far from period specifications and designs. Resto-mod has even been used to describe what were once known as "hot rods", which really are more customized vehicles than anything else. I think of the philosophy above as closer to originalism than hot-rodding in that all modifications have to have at least some basis in the time period, perhaps with the one exception of the LED bulbs in the lights.

Remember - Each Bike is Different

This is a point I hit on constantly - every project needs to be examined and you need to think through what it is you want to do. Don't take a 100% original and correct bike and blow it apart for a full custom hot rod. But also don't sacrifice your safety or comfort for bike that has already been modified three times by two prior owners. Take what's in front of you and decide, based on the facts, what will work best for the bike.

1953 Raleigh Lenton

 

I rebuilt this 1953 Raleigh Lenton over the second half of the winter and start of this past spring. This is a Reg Harris model with Reynolds 531 main tubes. The frame is a 23 inches and wonderfully light in weight. It has the ornate lugs and a very nice green finish with white/silver type stripes.

 

This bike started life as a road model and at some point in the distant past was converted to an upright utility type configuration. As a utility type bike, it's very light and quite a lively rider. 

 

The wheels are 26 x 1 1/4 (AKA 597mm, 650) endrick rims - Dunlop Special Lightweight steel type. The hubs are a basic Raleigh steel front and a 1953 Sturmey AW rear. 

 

The bike originally came with celluloid Raleigh fenders in the style of Bluemels. Like so many other sets of old, celluloid fenders, the ones with this bike were wipes out long ago. I replaced them with a nice set of chromed steel Raleigh fenders. They're a little heavier, but much more durable.

 

This bike is quite lively, and a lot of fun to ride (think Raleigh Sports, but sportier).  

 

The previous owner opted to add an aluminum Raleigh Industries kickstand. Kickstands were very popular in the US as a means of parking the bike. The stand is a 1950s era stand, so it probably was added very early in the bike's life. I re-added the stand, but used rubber padding to prevent it from injuring the chain stays. I think it's sufficiently old and has become part of the bike's history.

 

 

The pump is an aluminum Raleigh pump from a 1960s era Raleigh Sports. This bike also has some attractive, period decals on the frame.I like the silver lettering and the lightning bolts - a change of pace from the also nice, more conservative Raleigh Sports type transfers of that time.

I still have some final tinkering and set up, but this project is mostly done. It should be a good addition for the coming warm weather.

In a few places, I used clear heat shrink to reinforce and "bandage" small cuts in the vintage cable housings. These creme colored housings are from a 1960s Raleigh Sports, but the color works nicely with the green frame. Heat shrink can be an effective bandage if you want to save period cable housings that are a little damaged, but still functional. The clear heat shrink is visible up close, but from a distance, you won't even notice it. 

A Brief Defense of Older "Schwinn Approved" Parts

 In vintage bicycle repair circles, it is fairly common to see the lampooning of "Schwinn Approved" parts, such as brake levers, calipers, bells, grips, generators,, and other bike parts. But this kind of general ridicule is undeserved, particularly as to older Schwinn Approved parts made prior to the late 1960s.

First, we have to consider the period in which the Schwinn Approved label appeared. While it is true that the Schwinn Approved parts had a marketing aspect to ensure people bought parts that would bring a profit to Schwinn, it also provided consumers with some understanding that they were getting parts that would function on their bikes, and that had some basic standard of quality. 

Take the old Weinmann brake levers and calipers, for example. The Schwinn Approved levers and the Weinmann 810 calipers on the 3-speed bikes were lightweight, could be repaired, and functioned as well (or in some cases much  better) than the basic calipers of the 1950s-60s. Replacement bits for the calipers were readily available and a competent mechanic would service and set up the calipers. 

 While these brakes were not the only options for the bikes, the Schwinn Approved label did provide a common touchstone for function, fit, and quality for the consumer and mechanic in the days prior to the internet. We often tend to forget that information, opinion, and comparison of parts flows much more freely with the internet today than it did in the days of local bike shops 60+ years ago.

And then there are the Schwinn Approved finger grips. These grips are often durable and comfortable. I have a set of grips on my 1964 Schwinn Traveler that have aged incredibly well, and are still supple and comfortable 59 years later. While not all grips weathered this well, many are still in circulation and can be used. Not bad for a part in a family of components that often is the butt of jokes among vintage bike enthusiasts.

It is fair to admit that some (though not all) of the later Schwinn Approved parts from the Far East from the late 1960s and 1970s were lacking in quality. This tends to be true of some of the generator sets, bells, and other peripherals. However, even some of these later and cheaper parts, such as Dia Compe brakes, were not bad and could be a cost-effective option.

It is somewhat cynical today in thinking that Schwinn Approved was just a gimmick or a marketing ploy. True, it did have a marketing aspect, but it also provided the consumer and mechanic with a way of identifying and sourcing parts for Schwinn bikes in a reliable way in a time when fewer parts and less knowledge was available in many places in America.

And we must credit Schwinn for its attempts to bring bike shops "upscale" in the post-war era as part of all of this. Schwinn's concept of a clean, tidy bike shop akin to other middle class retail stores of the 1950s and 1960s helped make many American baby boomers and their parents more familiar with bikes and shops, laying the foundation for the bike boom that was to follow.

1949 Raleigh Clubman - New Arrival

 Here is a recent arrival in my collection: a 1949 Raleigh Clubman. The Clubman was a premium sporting model made by Raleigh shortly after WWII ended. I think this bike will make a great companion to the 1953 Raleigh Lenton that I recently rebuilt.

 

This 1949 model features  26 x 1-1/4 (597mm) Dunlop wheels, Sturmey Archer hubs, and a frame with ornate lugs and Reynolds 531 main tubes. The paint has some wear, but no signs of abuse. I suppose this is what you would call, "good, honest wear". The frame is an "in-between" type at 22 inches (compared to the usual 21 or 23 of the more common Raleigh Sports). 

The handlebars and stem have been swapped, and it has a replacement front brake cable. The tires are Schwalbe 26 x 1-1/4,which are periodically available in Britain, but which never seem to be in stock in the USA. The bike has shop stickers from a bike shop in Milwaukee, Wisconsin.

 

These Bluemels aluminum fenders are from a later model Raleigh, but I got the originals with the bike. I place to clean up the originals and put them back on this bike. 

 

The bike came with a wonderful "Raleigh" branded saddle bag, which I think goes great with this bike.

 

 The lighting system is the classic "Dynohub" type, with the fork-mounted headlamp. It has been converted to LED bulbs already, which I think is a great addition for safety's sake.

It has the old school fluted, Raleigh cranks, which I think are elegant and add a nice touch to these bikes.

 I previously owned a 1951 Clubman, which had 27 x 1-1/4 wheels. This earlier model is the 26 inch wheel version.

This bike will require a cleaning and overhaul. I'll probably play a little with the handlebar set up so that it fits me a little better. But this looks to be a promising project.