Wheelbuilding - Raleigh Sports Westrick Wheels

 Here's a nice set of wheels I built over the weekend. The rims are Raleigh Westrick (I love those old-style ones with matte centers), old stock Union straight gauge spokes, and Sturmey Archer hubs. 

 These wheels are not for the Reg Harris Lenton, but I have been building up parts in my stockpiles lately, and figured this would be a nice wheel set to have around for other projects.

The rear hub is a four speed FW from 1961 and the front is an unused old stock Raleigh with oiler port. Both hubs have been cleaned and rebuilt using Lucas green grease in the outer bearings [I'm a fan - it's not overly expensive, fairly easy to get, and the grease is slick rather than sticky]. Each hub also was given a little bit of 3-in-1 blue bottle oil in the oil port [the 20-weight stuff].

I am a fan of the FW four speed hubs, even if they are somewhat less sought after than the five speed S5 models. The FW does have its imperfections (high shifter tension in bottom gear) and does have some limitations (lacks the final gear of the S5), but they generally are smooth-running and offer a nice "bail out" bottom gear for steep climbs. With a 22 tooth cog, they offer a good gear for roads where you have to climb hills. On the downhills, I spin, and on the steep downhills, I coast.

The spoke patterns are conventional: 32 spokes, cross three in front and 40 spokes, cross four in back. The spokes are straight gauge and have the union clover on the head.

All spokes have Zipp brand oval washers at the rims. Whenever possible, I like to use a rim reinforcing washer.I use Velofuze flat washers on Endrick rims and Zipp bent ovals on Westwood and Westrick rims. [I should do a short guide to rim reinforcing washers on old bikes - it's trickier to get good washers for the purpose than one would think.]

The rear hub has Velofuze brass spoke washers at the flanges. I've found that on used, old Sturmey Archer hubs, it is helpful to use a brass spoke washer. This is especially important on used, old alloy Sturmey Archer hubs.

This should make a nice set of rider wheels, and have a little extra climbing power in them with the FW four-speed rear hub. 

Review: Goodyear Tubes for Three Speed Bikes (ISO 590mm and ISO 597mm)

 Here's another tube I recently came across as an offering for old Raleigh or Schwinn three speed bikes: the Goodyear "blue box" tube. 

 In a Nutshell: Not a bad option if you can get them on discount, these tubes are somewhat small both in overall circumference and in hose diameter. They have thicker walls than Duro or standard Kenda, but are not as thick as dedicated, "thorn-resistant" type tubes. These are worth checking out if you can get them at a good (budget) price, but I would not go out of my way to find them. Do not confuse these with vintage USA-made Goodyears.

 

In More Detail:

These are budget tubes advertised as having substantially thicker walls than other budget offerings. The tubes are somewhat smaller than other tubes in this size, both in circumference and in diameter of hose. The valves has a peculiar, white stripe on them. These tubes aren't bad if you are on a budget, but are not a substitute for better "thorn resistant" tubes if you need the extra protection. These aren't bad if you can get them on sale but they are not the long-lasting, USA-made Goodyears of old.

The tubes come with a pair of budget tire levers, which are helpful if you are someone who has no levers on hand, or you are just changing this one set of tubes. The levers are not a substitute for a good, heavy-duty set of levers like those from Park (good) or Pedro's (my favorites for levers). 

Three Speed Bike Tubes - Schwalbe Screw-Down Valve

 

Here are tubes I have not tried before - Schwalbe AV12 tubes. I was attracted to these as a somewhat more premium tube than the basic Kenda types, and I was interested in a tube that had a screw-down Schrader valve, similar to the old Dunlop tubes. 

 

In a Nutshell: Better-made than common Duro or Kenda economy tubes, these tubes also are harder to seat and set up properly on an old three speed bike wheel. They have a screw-down valve that is similar to, but somewhat longer than the old screw-down Dunlop valves. These tubes are good for the mechanic who is careful about seating tubes, wants a better tube, and who wants a screw-down valve. This tube may be a challenge for a the occasional home mechanic who has a hard time seating tubes and tires as it is.

 

In more detail:

These tubes are not specific to old three speed bikes. They claim to fit a wide variety of "26 inch" wheels. It is common for tubes to accommodate a few different sizes (unlike most tire shells) because they and be stretched a bit.  That said, the common three speed sizes (650A / 590mm and EA1 / 597mm) are somewhat at the limit of rim size for these tubes. The 650A and EA1 sizes are listed on the package as compatible, though are at the top end of rim diameter for these tubes. (26 x 1-3/8 and 26 x 1-1/4).

I like the screw-down valve stem, which helps set the tube at the start of seating and helps to keep the valve stem straight in the rim. It also helps steady the valve when you're filling with air.

These tubes are thicker and more substantial than the cheaper Kenda or Duro tubes. The valves are noticeably better-made and more robust. Oddly, they come with a kind of cheap, clear plastic valve stem cap. I will swap these to the old-style, metal Schrader valve caps with the built-in valve tool (again, as often found on the Dunlops).

These tubes were harder to seat than Duro or Kenda tubes. In fact, the diameter of the tube loop overall seems somewhat smaller than the Duro or Kenda. The thicker tube walls also make them a little harder to seat and keep inside the tire shell when mounting.

Overall, my impression is this is a somewhat better-made tube than the Kenda or Duro, which are common replacements on old three speed bikes today. They are somewhat more expensive and somewhat harder to seat. The screw-down valve stem is a nice addition, but is somewhat longer than the old Dunlop valve stems were (it's not a dead-on replacement for the old Dunlop).

These tubes are an option where you don't mind more work seating the tire and tube, where you want a little bit thicker and more substantial tube, and where you want a screw-down valve stem. These tubes may not work if you struggle to seat and properly set up the more common Kenda or Duro tubes. These tubes are also not a true replacement for high-dollar, "thorn resistant" type tubes. While they are more substantial than the cheaper, common tubes, they also are not as heavy-duty as a tube that is a dedicated tube for thorn resistant purposes.