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Sunday, August 8, 2021

Current Project: 1949 or 50 Schwinn Superior

 

 


The post-war Schwinn Superior is somewhat of an oddity in that it was the case of a model being re-added to the product line up and stuffed in the middle of Schwinn's offerings for only a couple of years. Prior to WWII, the Superior was the model one step below the Paramount, and it had been a fillet brazed, premium bicycle. So before WWII, the New World was the base model, the Superior was in the middle, and the Paramount was top of the line.

After WWII, Schwinn changed things a bit. The New World remained the base level bicycle, and the Paramount remained the top of the line. However, Schwinn added the Continental model (not to be confused with the later 10-speed Continental) as the mid-level model. The Continental was  a fillet brazed, Chromium-Molybdenum steel bicycle. This was the model range, at least as of 1947-48 (1945-46 seems to have been a developmental period where the post-war models were taking shape).

Not long after that, probably in early 1949, Schwinn re-added the Superior model to the line up, but this time they added it in above the New World but below the Continental. The result was a short-lived model that had an electro-forge welded frame of carbon steel, but a brazed and seamless bottom bracket running a three-piece cottered crank set. These models seem to have made use of the seamless bottom brackets used on Schwinn Tandems of that era (at least the few models I have come across had Tandem style serial numbers).

 

A few weeks ago, I came across an incomplete 1949 or 1950 Schwinn Superior for sale. What took me the most was the color - a medium green type of color. It was different from later 1950s Opal Green, and it had some attractive elements. The wheels were missing and the bicycle had been stored out in California for many years. It had some black spray paint on it, probably overspray from a another project in the area where it was stored. 

So I bought the odd project and went to work on it. I've been at it for several weeks now. It is very much similar to a Schwinn New World of that era, but with some embellishments, and with the odd combo of cottered cranks and an electro-forged frame. The unique "Schwinn" and "Superior" frame graphics are in somewhat rough shape. 



Bottom Bracket

So let's venture right into the odd part of this frame - the Tandem-type bottom bracket. The bike has a T-series serial number, "AS" marked bottom bracket cups, and a "Schwinn" script spindle. Each side of the bottom bracket takes 11 1/4 inch bearing balls (22 1/4 inch bearing balls in total). The cups are blued and the lock ring is chrome. I use an adjustable pin spanner and medium-sized C-spanner to work on these. The size of the c-spanned is the 1-1/4 to 3 inch adjustable type. The tools can be gotten for cheap online.


Paint

The paint is a unique green that only appears to have been used briefly by Schwinn. By the 1950s, Schwinn switched to a more "candy" Opal Green color. This color is has some metallic type shine to it, but also has a little bit of pastel green to it as well. It's very hard to describe this color because it is much less translucent than the 1950s Opal Green. Suffice to say, you'll need to do some paint mixing to match it. I don't know of anyone who makes this color read-to-go in the bottle. 

So my paint was this: Testors Flat Beret Green as a base color. Then add Testors Teal metallic and add Testors Aluminum with eye droppers until the paint matches. The fenders are a little more faded than the frame, so I had to mix two separate amounts in a "match as you go" sort of way. 

The white is not truly white, which may be partly due to aging. The paint is Testors Flat White as a base, coupled with Testors Light Ivory as an add-in, again using the eye dropper to gradually mix until you get what you want.

The bike has a neat imitation of the English "white tip" on the rear fender. I am not aware of any US law that required white tips, whereas the British passed a white-tip law for their rear fenders. It is probably a case of Schwinn imitating English style. I really like the white and green combo.

 

I recommend Testors small glass bottle oil enamels because they are relatively easy to mix, clean up with regular paint thinner, and remain workable enough to do what you need to, without drying too slowly or too quickly.

Graphics/Transfers

This bike has some unique "chevron" type transfers, as well as the "Superior" transfer on the frame. They're in kind of rough shape, and from what I have seen of these bikes, it's pretty common that they're beat up. I used a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to clean up what is left of these transfers.


"Bring Your Own Wheels / BYOW"

This project came without wheels. Through a helpful seller on the Classic and Antique Bicycle Exchange, I located a set of 1949 stainless Schwinn S6 wheels to use on the bike. A perfect match for this Superior.

 

Saddle

The bike's stock saddle is a horsehair and fabrikoid mattress saddle, with springs like a Brooks B66 or similar would have. It was a solid, basic saddle in its day. A good leather saddle would always be a nice upgrade. 



Final Thoughts for Today

This Schwinn Superior feels to me like a "better New World" bike. It has a few nice upgrades over a basic, black New World (I love my 1947 New World still), but it's by no means upscale with the Continental or Paramount. It's an interesting case of a short-lived, but well-made bicycle sandwiched into the Schwinn line up for just a couple years after WWII. I'm hopeful this one rides as well as any post-war Schwinn "lightweight".



2 comments:

  1. Nice. I'd love to get one of these Schwinns someday, especially a non electroforged one. A few come up on the local Craigslist from time to time.
    -Shawn
    https://societyofthreespeeds.wordpress.com/

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    1. If you can find a 3-speed Continental, it would be the ticket. They fillet brazed those from Cr-Mo tubing and didn't cut corners on them. I don't think the electroforged frame is bad at all, but there certainly is more cachet in having a hand-built Cr-Mo brazed frame.

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