Restarting a Rod Brake Bicycle for Spring - 1970 Raleigh DL-1

 Yesterday, I gave an example of how you can refresh a vintage bike for spring (I used my 1957 Schwinn Traveler as that example). 

Today, I will provide some information specific to rod brake bicycles coming back out for the start of the riding season. 

This 1970 Raleigh DL-1 is in good shape. Cosmetically speaking, it is one of the cleanest DL-1 bikes I've ever seen.  

In addition to the previous tips, rod brake bicycles have a few things you should check.

• Always check the rims for trueness when starting the riding season. Pay special attention to the wheel "roundness". Spin the wheel and look at the wheel from the side. Does the wheel spin roundly, or does the rim "hop" up and down? Rod brakes work best and most smoothly when the rim does not hop up and down.  Look for spots on the rim that indicate uneven braking.
• Check the rod brakes carefully for the gap between the brake pad and rim surface. Adjust the brake space as needed.
• Check the linkages for slop. Start at the linkage closest to the wheel and trace it back to the levers at the handlebars. Check each joint for looseness/slop. Remember that in a rod brake system, tolerances/slop "stacks" (a little slop in each joint adds up to a lot of slop/sponginess in how the brake lever will feel when you pull it).
• Check that the pads are not going to hit any of the spokes. Test this through out the spin of the wheel.
•  Oil the stirrup pins a little if the stirrups are hanging up. Make sure there's no oil on the brake pad or rim surface.
• Make sure the return springs at the levers are returning the levers fully so you have maximum leverage/pull when you pull the brake levers.
• Make sure the adjustment nuts in the system are all tight when you're done. 
• Make wipe down and clean the brake rods/stirrups when you're done. Oil and grime can cause problems if they build up.

 

Reviving Bikes For Riding Season - 1957 Schwinn Traveler

 We're getting into better weather and longer days for riding this time of year. The threat of snow and ice is past, and there is enough evening daylight to ride. Those of us who have a "riding season" (here it is roughly early April through mid November) now must get bikes back on the road after the winter layoff. 

Let's go through the basics of getting bikes back out for spring, using this 1957 Schwinn Traveler as an example.

 

Tires/Wheels/Brakes:

•  Check the tires for pressure. This bike had 35psi in front and 30psi in back. That's way too low. Pump the tires up to proper pressure. In this case, I'm using 65psi front and rear. Some people like the front a bit (10% or so) softer than the back. That is OK too.  
•  Check the wheels for trueness. In this case, the front needs a little adjustment. Check the wheels for any looseness in the frame or play at the bearings. In this case, the wheels are tight on the frame and there is acceptable cone tension.
• Check the hubs for spin/play. In this case, the Sturmey Archer AW hub received a little 20 weight oil. 
  
• Check the brakes for movement and fit. In this case, the brakes are set up properly and moving smoothly. No need to do anything. Sometimes you need to add a little oil to the pivot. 

Shifting:

• Check the shifter cable for proper tension, adjust as needed. In this case, the shifter cable and pulley are properly set up and moving smoothly.
• Check the shifter for engagement. In this case, the shifter is clicking into place properly.

 

 Bottom Bracket and Pedals:

• Check the bottom bracket for spin/play. In this case, the bottom bracket is turning  smoothly and is snug. 
• Check the chain for cleanliness and smoothness. In this case, the chain received a little One Shot lubricant/cleaner.
  
• Check the pedals for tightness and spin/grease. In this case, the pedals are snug in the cranks, and spin smoothly. There is some excess grease coming from the bearings, which I wiped away.

 

Headset:

• Check the headset for play/movement. In this case, the headset is snug and turning freely/smoothly.

 

Lights, Bell, Bag, Saddle:

• Check the lights for working batteries. In this case, the front was OK but the back had a dead battery. I replaced the AAA battery in the rear light.
• Check that the seat post and saddle are firmly in place and not loose. No issues on this bike.
  
•  Check the saddle bag to see that you have the correct tools in it when you ride. In this case, the bag was empty so I put in a small adjustable wrench and a saddle wrench in case I have a problem on the road. A cuff clip can also be added to the bag if you are concerned about cuffs getting caught in the chain as you ride.
• Check the saddle for mold and for tension. In this case, the saddle is fine.
• Does the bell ring as intended? Is it loose on the bars? In this case, it's fine.
  

 

Shakedown Ride:

• Take a short ride close to home (within walking distance) and check that everything works as intended before going on a longer ride. In this case, the bike is pretty good. I did notice a little wobble in the front rim, so some additional truing is needed. Otherwise, it's good to go for another season.

 

Spring Rides - 1941 Schwinn Henderson New World Three Speed

 

This spring has been a mixed bag so far. We've had a few warm days, but also some very cold and windy ones. I've been putting miles on this 1941 Schwinn Henderson three speed, and it has been reliable so far. 

It has the usual quirks that early Schwinn three speeds have: low stem, boxy handle bars, fillet brazed frame, mediocre braking power, hardened old hand grips, spindly fender braces, glass reflectors, etc. These pre-WWII Schwinn three speeds have a kind of "hand-built" element to them because they really were built by hand from steel tubing onward. 

This is not necessarily a bad thing - these elements are part of what make these bikes ride as they do. They're a window back to a time when three speeds were cutting edge bicycles, and "exotic" in the United States compared to the single-speed balloon tire bike. 

 

 

Kiley and Blue Lug Koma Retro Tail Lights

Kiley tail light on a 1964 Schwinn Traveler

Finding a quality, retro-styled light for a bike is not always an easy task. In the past, I have made LED lights from vintage lights, I've bought generic and cheap lights, I've bought more modern styled lights, and I've bought retro but mid-market lights. My go-to brands for the past few years have been Soma and Kiley branded retro lights.

I recently have started using two newer offerings: the Kiley "coin edge" style tail light and the Blue Lug Koma tail light. Both of these lights are reasonably priced, and both rely on modern LED technology in a vintage-style housing. Both lights use the latest USB recharging connection.

Blue Lug Koma and Kiley Tail Lights with Boxes

The Kiley light is a small or medium sized round light with a metal housing. The lens is plastic. The center of the lens doubles as the button for turning the light on or off. The settings are basic: solid light, flashing light, and off. 

 

The Kiley Light Has a Knurled "Coin" Edge

The light has the "Kiley" name on the top and a knurled edge. It comes with mounting hardware that allows it to be a direct thread-in, or side screw/clamp-on. Battery life is generally quite good. Recharge time is a couple of hours if totally discharged. 

 

Kiley Tail Light on the 1964 Schwinn

The Blue Lug Koma is quite similar in construction to the Kiley. Unlike the Kiley, it has a plain, smooth housing without any logo or knurling on it. Both lights are very much "retro" in their appearance, but the Blue Lug is even a bit more retro and plainer than the Kiley. Function is very much the same as the Kiley: solid/flash/off modes, push-button center of the lens to operate, recharge using the newer USB connection. Mounting hardware is virtually the same as the Kiley - direct thread-in or side-mount clamp on/side screw. The Kiley typically comes with a charging cord, but the Koma does not come with a cord. Using the standard "new" type USB cord, it should not be hard to find your own cord.

The Koma is a Simple, Smooth, Attractive Tail Light

Both of these lights are generally in the "affordable" range. They are not truly "cheap", but they are certainly less expensive than custom or high-end lights. The quality of both the Kiley and the Blue Lug is decent. They appear to be made in either the same or very similar factories.  Both lights have a simple rubber flap to make them water resistant. The flap is a little on the thin side on both lights, but it should function OK in most conditions.

Sample of the Mounting Hardware in Both

My final verdict on these lights is "thumbs up" - recommended. Both lights are attractive in an old style way, but offer newer LED technology. They both are fairly bright and they both have a hazard "flasher" mode for day time use. Either one would look at home on a mid-20th century bike.  

1964 Schwinn Traveler Three Speed Bike

 

 

1941 Schwinn Henderson New World - Spring Arriving

 

Thankfully, it seems as if spring is at last returning. So far, it has been a bit on the cool, rainy side, but we have had a couple warmer days to get out for a ride. 

This 1941 Schwinn Henderson New World was a winter project I bought last November. A bicycle shop in Pennsylvania sold off a large collection of old bikes. Among them was this New World.

This bike came to me with an incorrect fork. A very helpful, fellow collector sold me a bundle of New World parts/projects, which included a correct fork for this bike. The fork came from a women's frame, so required trimming and some additional threading. As collectors, I think we need to keep as many of these old bikes on the road as we can. It's also good to connect with fellow collectors to share information, ideas for repairs, and sources of parts to keep these fine old bikes going.

 

As with every old bike, this one required a few, short "test" rides. I usually take the bike around the block here and see if anything is in need of adjustment. Fiddly items include the saddle height, handlebar position, brake caliper tightness, light positions, etc. In this case, I made adjustments to the brake pad positions, saddle leather tension, and saddle height. 

This bike has the usual, 21-inch men's frame. At 5ft 7in tall, I can ride either the 21-inch or the 23-inch frames comfortably enough. One thing that helps on the 21-inch frame is a taller stem or taller handlebars. The bars on this bike are pretty tall, typical of American-style handlebars of that period. 

 

This bike began life as a single-speed freewheel bike, but I have a nice set of three speed wheels on it. So far, so good in the early rides for this bike. Hopefully we have some good weather ahead to get the ride season started.