Restarting a Rod Brake Bicycle for Spring - 1970 Raleigh DL-1

 Yesterday, I gave an example of how you can refresh a vintage bike for spring (I used my 1957 Schwinn Traveler as that example). 

Today, I will provide some information specific to rod brake bicycles coming back out for the start of the riding season. 

This 1970 Raleigh DL-1 is in good shape. Cosmetically speaking, it is one of the cleanest DL-1 bikes I've ever seen.  

In addition to the previous tips, rod brake bicycles have a few things you should check.

• Always check the rims for trueness when starting the riding season. Pay special attention to the wheel "roundness". Spin the wheel and look at the wheel from the side. Does the wheel spin roundly, or does the rim "hop" up and down? Rod brakes work best and most smoothly when the rim does not hop up and down.  Look for spots on the rim that indicate uneven braking.
• Check the rod brakes carefully for the gap between the brake pad and rim surface. Adjust the brake space as needed.
• Check the linkages for slop. Start at the linkage closest to the wheel and trace it back to the levers at the handlebars. Check each joint for looseness/slop. Remember that in a rod brake system, tolerances/slop "stacks" (a little slop in each joint adds up to a lot of slop/sponginess in how the brake lever will feel when you pull it).
• Check that the pads are not going to hit any of the spokes. Test this through out the spin of the wheel.
•  Oil the stirrup pins a little if the stirrups are hanging up. Make sure there's no oil on the brake pad or rim surface.
• Make sure the return springs at the levers are returning the levers fully so you have maximum leverage/pull when you pull the brake levers.
• Make sure the adjustment nuts in the system are all tight when you're done. 
• Make wipe down and clean the brake rods/stirrups when you're done. Oil and grime can cause problems if they build up.

 

Reviving Bikes For Riding Season - 1957 Schwinn Traveler

 We're getting into better weather and longer days for riding this time of year. The threat of snow and ice is past, and there is enough evening daylight to ride. Those of us who have a "riding season" (here it is roughly early April through mid November) now must get bikes back on the road after the winter layoff. 

Let's go through the basics of getting bikes back out for spring, using this 1957 Schwinn Traveler as an example.

 

Tires/Wheels/Brakes:

•  Check the tires for pressure. This bike had 35psi in front and 30psi in back. That's way too low. Pump the tires up to proper pressure. In this case, I'm using 65psi front and rear. Some people like the front a bit (10% or so) softer than the back. That is OK too.  
•  Check the wheels for trueness. In this case, the front needs a little adjustment. Check the wheels for any looseness in the frame or play at the bearings. In this case, the wheels are tight on the frame and there is acceptable cone tension.
• Check the hubs for spin/play. In this case, the Sturmey Archer AW hub received a little 20 weight oil. 
  
• Check the brakes for movement and fit. In this case, the brakes are set up properly and moving smoothly. No need to do anything. Sometimes you need to add a little oil to the pivot. 

Shifting:

• Check the shifter cable for proper tension, adjust as needed. In this case, the shifter cable and pulley are properly set up and moving smoothly.
• Check the shifter for engagement. In this case, the shifter is clicking into place properly.

 

 Bottom Bracket and Pedals:

• Check the bottom bracket for spin/play. In this case, the bottom bracket is turning  smoothly and is snug. 
• Check the chain for cleanliness and smoothness. In this case, the chain received a little One Shot lubricant/cleaner.
  
• Check the pedals for tightness and spin/grease. In this case, the pedals are snug in the cranks, and spin smoothly. There is some excess grease coming from the bearings, which I wiped away.

 

Headset:

• Check the headset for play/movement. In this case, the headset is snug and turning freely/smoothly.

 

Lights, Bell, Bag, Saddle:

• Check the lights for working batteries. In this case, the front was OK but the back had a dead battery. I replaced the AAA battery in the rear light.
• Check that the seat post and saddle are firmly in place and not loose. No issues on this bike.
  
•  Check the saddle bag to see that you have the correct tools in it when you ride. In this case, the bag was empty so I put in a small adjustable wrench and a saddle wrench in case I have a problem on the road. A cuff clip can also be added to the bag if you are concerned about cuffs getting caught in the chain as you ride.
• Check the saddle for mold and for tension. In this case, the saddle is fine.
• Does the bell ring as intended? Is it loose on the bars? In this case, it's fine.
  

 

Shakedown Ride:

• Take a short ride close to home (within walking distance) and check that everything works as intended before going on a longer ride. In this case, the bike is pretty good. I did notice a little wobble in the front rim, so some additional truing is needed. Otherwise, it's good to go for another season.

 

Spring Rides - 1941 Schwinn Henderson New World Three Speed

 

This spring has been a mixed bag so far. We've had a few warm days, but also some very cold and windy ones. I've been putting miles on this 1941 Schwinn Henderson three speed, and it has been reliable so far. 

It has the usual quirks that early Schwinn three speeds have: low stem, boxy handle bars, fillet brazed frame, mediocre braking power, hardened old hand grips, spindly fender braces, glass reflectors, etc. These pre-WWII Schwinn three speeds have a kind of "hand-built" element to them because they really were built by hand from steel tubing onward. 

This is not necessarily a bad thing - these elements are part of what make these bikes ride as they do. They're a window back to a time when three speeds were cutting edge bicycles, and "exotic" in the United States compared to the single-speed balloon tire bike. 

 

 

Kiley and Blue Lug Koma Retro Tail Lights

Kiley tail light on a 1964 Schwinn Traveler

Finding a quality, retro-styled light for a bike is not always an easy task. In the past, I have made LED lights from vintage lights, I've bought generic and cheap lights, I've bought more modern styled lights, and I've bought retro but mid-market lights. My go-to brands for the past few years have been Soma and Kiley branded retro lights.

I recently have started using two newer offerings: the Kiley "coin edge" style tail light and the Blue Lug Koma tail light. Both of these lights are reasonably priced, and both rely on modern LED technology in a vintage-style housing. Both lights use the latest USB recharging connection.

Blue Lug Koma and Kiley Tail Lights with Boxes

The Kiley light is a small or medium sized round light with a metal housing. The lens is plastic. The center of the lens doubles as the button for turning the light on or off. The settings are basic: solid light, flashing light, and off. 

 

The Kiley Light Has a Knurled "Coin" Edge

The light has the "Kiley" name on the top and a knurled edge. It comes with mounting hardware that allows it to be a direct thread-in, or side screw/clamp-on. Battery life is generally quite good. Recharge time is a couple of hours if totally discharged. 

 

Kiley Tail Light on the 1964 Schwinn

The Blue Lug Koma is quite similar in construction to the Kiley. Unlike the Kiley, it has a plain, smooth housing without any logo or knurling on it. Both lights are very much "retro" in their appearance, but the Blue Lug is even a bit more retro and plainer than the Kiley. Function is very much the same as the Kiley: solid/flash/off modes, push-button center of the lens to operate, recharge using the newer USB connection. Mounting hardware is virtually the same as the Kiley - direct thread-in or side-mount clamp on/side screw. The Kiley typically comes with a charging cord, but the Koma does not come with a cord. Using the standard "new" type USB cord, it should not be hard to find your own cord.

The Koma is a Simple, Smooth, Attractive Tail Light

Both of these lights are generally in the "affordable" range. They are not truly "cheap", but they are certainly less expensive than custom or high-end lights. The quality of both the Kiley and the Blue Lug is decent. They appear to be made in either the same or very similar factories.  Both lights have a simple rubber flap to make them water resistant. The flap is a little on the thin side on both lights, but it should function OK in most conditions.

Sample of the Mounting Hardware in Both

My final verdict on these lights is "thumbs up" - recommended. Both lights are attractive in an old style way, but offer newer LED technology. They both are fairly bright and they both have a hazard "flasher" mode for day time use. Either one would look at home on a mid-20th century bike.  

1964 Schwinn Traveler Three Speed Bike

 

 

1941 Schwinn Henderson New World - Spring Arriving

 

Thankfully, it seems as if spring is at last returning. So far, it has been a bit on the cool, rainy side, but we have had a couple warmer days to get out for a ride. 

This 1941 Schwinn Henderson New World was a winter project I bought last November. A bicycle shop in Pennsylvania sold off a large collection of old bikes. Among them was this New World.

This bike came to me with an incorrect fork. A very helpful, fellow collector sold me a bundle of New World parts/projects, which included a correct fork for this bike. The fork came from a women's frame, so required trimming and some additional threading. As collectors, I think we need to keep as many of these old bikes on the road as we can. It's also good to connect with fellow collectors to share information, ideas for repairs, and sources of parts to keep these fine old bikes going.

 

As with every old bike, this one required a few, short "test" rides. I usually take the bike around the block here and see if anything is in need of adjustment. Fiddly items include the saddle height, handlebar position, brake caliper tightness, light positions, etc. In this case, I made adjustments to the brake pad positions, saddle leather tension, and saddle height. 

This bike has the usual, 21-inch men's frame. At 5ft 7in tall, I can ride either the 21-inch or the 23-inch frames comfortably enough. One thing that helps on the 21-inch frame is a taller stem or taller handlebars. The bars on this bike are pretty tall, typical of American-style handlebars of that period. 

 

This bike began life as a single-speed freewheel bike, but I have a nice set of three speed wheels on it. So far, so good in the early rides for this bike. Hopefully we have some good weather ahead to get the ride season started.

 

1941 Schwinn New World Henderson

 

Here is a less common variant of the Schwinn New World, the "Henderson" badged version. This New World is not much different from the usual early 1940s New World tourist. However, it has the ornate "Henderson" badge, which is what caught my eye. My grandfather's 1936 Schwinn balloon tire bike was a "Henderson" badged model. It too was black. 

So when I saw this 1941 New World was also a Henderson, I jumped at the chance to buy it. This bike needed a front fork replacement because it came with an incorrect, later fork that had been spray painted. I threaded and trimmed the steerer tube on the fork to fit this bike. 

The result is a beautiful, basic three speed tourist. Originally, this bike had a single-speed, wheel set. I swapped the wheels for a nice set of three speed wheels with chromed S6 Schwinn rims. I'll get more use out of a three speed, and if it ever had to be swapped back to original, it's as easy as putting the old wheels back on and removing the three speed wheels and shifter equipment.

The original saddle is in reasonably good shape, but is too dry to ride without causing it to break down. I have a classic, leather Lepper triple spring tourist saddle that should go nicely with this bike. The pedals are a nice, new set of MKS 3000S tourist pedals.

Specifications: 1941 Schwinn Henderson New World (as rebuilt)

• 21-inch, fillet brazed men's steel frame
• Henderson headbadge
  
• Wire-braced steel fenders 
• Schwinn-built chromed steel side-pull caliper brakes
• Schwinn-built steel brake levers
• Wald "knuckle" stem.
• Wald chromed steel handlebars
• Schwinn oval rubber grips
• Sturmey Archer three speed rear hub
• Schwinn script hourglass front hub
• Acorn saddle bag
• Kiley LED headlight with steel bracket
• black LED rear light
• Lepper triple spring leather saddle 
• Schwinn Stimsonite glass rear reflector

 

Update to a History Page and Entry

 

 

Brief note - I have updated my overview of early "modern" three-speed type "lightweight" utility bikes in the USA. Journal entry found HERE and website page found HERE (they're the same thing - no need to read twice).

 A new entry in my bibliography page is now available: "Peddling Schwinn Bicycles: Marketing Lessons from the Leading Post-WWII US Bicycle Brand". See the bibliography page for more information and the link.

A Guide to Schwinn Traveler Bicycles (1950s-60s)

 

Introduction

Schwinn used the "Traveler" name on several kinds of bikes over the years. There are two basic bikes known as "Travelers". The first is the American-made (Schwinn Chicago factory) single, two-speed, or three-speed touring/commuting bike made from the early 1950s to the mid-1960s. The second "Traveler" is a Japanese-made road bike of the 1970s-80s. This field guide is about the earlier, "Traveler".

 The Schwinn Traveler three speed was Schwinn's luxury "lightweight" or "English style" bike made in the USA. The Traveler's fenders were initially chrome, but later stainless steel. They feature a "fin" on the front fender. The Traveler generally came with more equipment than the lesser models: saddle bag, lighting set, and a better saddle. The Traveler also made use of Schwinn's proprietary built-in kickstand, whereas some lesser models did not have a built-in kickstand. 

 

How To Tell if You Have a Traveler?

Look at the chain guard and the frame for decals. Often (but not always) the chain guard will actually say "Traveler". Also, look at the features to see if it matches one of the generations of Traveler bikes described below. 

 

 

How to ascertain a date? 

Schwinn Traveler serial numbers usually appear on the non-drive side dropout (1952-66). A serial number chart is available online HERE. Some very early Travelers (1951-52) have the serial number on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell. This number tells you when the bottom bracket or dropout was stamped. It is not the actual "build date" for the bike, but is close enough for collectors today.

On three speed Travelers, Sturmey Archer made most of the rear hubs. Sturmey Archer's date code will include a two-digit year and a two-digit month. The hubs were produced a few weeks to months before the bike was completed, but it will give you a rough idea of when the bike was made (if it's the original hub to the bike). Sometimes a Traveler will have a front "Dynohub", a hub that powers the lighting system. Dynohubs also will have a two-digit year and two-digit month code on the shell. Some Travelers have Austrian-made or Brampton-made hubs without date codes. In those cases, use the decals (see below) on the bike to try to ascertain a date. Austrian-made hubs can be found on late 1950s Travelers and Brampton hubs are on some early and mid 1950s Travelers.

 For single and two-speed Travelers, look to the frame serial number and features (see below) to ascertain the date of the bike.

Identifying Four Generations of Travelers

 

Generation 1: 1951 through 1956

These bikes have ornate, winged decals on the frame. They have "hockey stick" chain guards. Frames are made of welded steel. Initially the fenders were made of chromed steel, but after only a couple of years, the fenders changed to stainless steel construction (1955). Rims are S6 "endrick" or "box pattern" rims. 

 

The earliest generation 1 Travelers have "Schwinn Built" steel brake calipers and brake levers. Subsequently, Phillips (English) steel calipers and levers were used. Schwinn then switched to Weinmann aluminum alloy model 810 calipers and all-grey aluminum levers.  

Phillips "swivel" brake levers - courtesy of the CABE

 

Weinmann grey levers

Front forks are made of tubular steel and have an ornate design on them. 

Early generation 1 three-speed Travelers have clamp-on cable pulleys, whereas later ones have a braze-on boss for the Sturmey Archer gear cable pulley. 

Early Generation 1 Travelers have a round headbadge that says "New World" on it. Later ones have a brass "Schwinn" logo headbadge with wings at the flanks. The earliest bikes in this generation may have serial number on the bottom bracket.

Front of a Gen 1 Travel, courtesy of BikeForums

In 1952 and later, the number should appear on the non-drive side rear dropout. 

Some three-speed Travelers in this generation may have Brampton-made rear hubs without date codes.

 

 

 

Generation 2: 1956 through 1959

1957 Schwinn Traveler - a Generation 2 bike

At some point in early 1956, the Traveler changed to a plainer design. These second generation bikes have simpler decals than generation 1. They have a simple, script "Schwinn" logo on much of the frame. The seat tube has a more ornate decal than the rest of the frame.  The front forks are tubular steel and have a simpler, diamond outline type shape. 

Schwinn logo on downtube - Generation 2

Brakes are Weinmann 810 alloy calipers with "Schwinn Approved" in block lettering on them. Brake levers are Weinmann red dot types. 

Block letter Schwinn Approved Weinmann 810 Calipers

 

Diamond outline fork pattern, Weinmann red dot levers

 

Headbadges are aluminum "Schwinn" logo type with wings at the flanks. 

It appears, based on surviving examples, as if this is the least commonly-found generation of Travelers today. Bicycles from generations 1 and 3 are more commonly seen today. Production of this generation of Travelers may have been lower than other generations.

 

Generation 3: 1959 through 1962

At some point in early 1959, Schwinn again changed the Traveler. This time, the bike went to a more ornate look.

 

These bikes have ornate frame decals in a marked change from generation 2.  

Example of Generation 3 Ornate Graphics

Bikes from 1959 to early 1960 have an aluminum headbadge "Schwinn" logo type with wings at the flanks. Lettering is colored like the frame. Generation 3 bikes from 1960 through 62 have an ornate, faceted badge made of plastic and in a silver color. The plastic badge version is fragile and glued into place with a locating pin. Faceted "starburst" badges from 1960-61 have outlining around the "Schwinn" logo. Badges of 1961-62 have more black on the lettering.

1959 - winged oval badge

 

Faceted plastic badge - used 1960-63 - Courtesy of Autofrei

 

L: 1960-61 badge (outlined letters); R: 1961-63. Courtesy of Rennfaron/CABE

Some of these bikes have Austrian-made, three-speed rear hubs without date codes. Chainguards are still hockeystick type. Some of these bikes also have an oval-shaped, Austrian-made three speed shifter instead of the usual Sturmey Archer "flick" shifter.

Generation 3 (1959) Traveler undergoing rebuild

Rims change at some point in 1959 from S6 chromed steel endrick/box type to S5 Schwinn "ridged" (English-style). Both rim types take a 597mm bead seat (EA1) tire.

The front fork changes in 1959 from the previous tubular design to the flat "ashtabula" fork style so familiar to Schwinn collectors.

Brake calipers are aluminum Weinmann 810s with "Schwinn Approved" in script on them. Levers are Weinmann "red dot" types. 

Schwinn Approved "Script" Brake Calipers

Red Dot Weinmann brake levers

 

Generation 4: 1963 through 1966 

Generation 4 - 1964 Traveler

These bikes return to a simpler style of decal and graphics. The decals are tidy and generally plain, but do have a little style to them. The seat tube has a nice, ivory-colored decal with a black and red Schwinn logo.

 

Chainguards change from the hockeystick type to the longer type that goes back to the seat stays. Chainguards eventually switch to a plain "star" graphic. 

The 1963 models have the plastic, faceted headbadge. The 1964-66 models have a plainer oval, metal "Schwinn" logo headbadge without wings. 

1963 - ornate oval "starburst" badge - Courtesy of the CABE

 

1964 - metal oval badge

Fenders are still stainless steel with a fin on the front fender. 

Brakes are Weinman 810 calipers with "Schwinn Approved" in script lettering. Levers are Weinmann 810 "red dot" types.

Rims are Schwinn S5 "ridged" of chromed steel. Spoke in generation 4 are initially Torrington-made, double-butted, but switch to straight-gauge Union-made spokes partway through generation 4. 

Ivory seat tube decal - 1963 and 1964

In 1965, the large, ivory seat tube decal was changed out for a simpler, monotone Schwinn logo decal. The other decals remained the same.

1965 Traveler, courtesy of the CABE

 

Conclusion

This guide is not meant to cover every possible variation of Schwinn Traveler. It instead is meant to provide a basic "field guide" for when you happen to come across one of this fine bikes "in the wild". These bicycles are often forgotten today, lost between the glamour of the Schwinn balloon tire bikes and the later Schwinn 10-speed road bikes. Despite this status, the Traveler was a premium, well-made three speed bike meant to help older students and adults travel and tour in speed and comfort.