Summer

 

 

Above: A large dragonfly perches on the headset cup of a 1942 Schwinn New World (B.F. Goodrich badged and sold) frame undergoing refurbishing over this past weekend.

Frames: Schwinn Welded versus Raleigh Brazed - Which One?

 One of the subjects pertaining to three speed type bikes that I see discussed occasionally, and which I am asked about from time to time, is whether the Schwinn electroforge welded frame is better/worse/different from the conventional, lugged Raleigh type frame.

A brief summary is in order. 

 

Understanding the Basics of Construction

A conventional three speed frame, such as a Raleigh Sports frame, is "lugged and brazed". The frame tubes are cut to length. Brackets made of welded steel are used to join the tubes together. The joint is then brazed together with a molten alloy metal that melts at a lower temperature than the steel tubes. The result is that lug is the bracket holding the tubes more or less in position, and the brazing alloy is the "glue" bonding them. There is certainly more to the process in detail (click HERE for a 1940s-era video on building Raleigh bikes), but this is a very rough description. 

 

Above you can see at the lugs acting as brackets at the top and bottom of the head tube, joining the head tube to the top tube and down tube.

Lugged and brazed frames have the advantage that you can use some very light steel alloys for tubes because you are not melting the tubes themselves together. Certain steel alloys do not weld together well using the traditional methods of the mid-20th century, but by brazing you can rely on the lower melting point alloy and the lug to hold it together.

Schwinn went in a different direction. Rather than using a lug or bracket to hold the frame together, they decided to make all the parts of steel, and then weld the pieces together. Below is an example of the head tube piece and bottom bracket piece of a Schwinn welded frame. You can see where the piece ends and the end of the tube would be welded, in a roughly end-to-end fashion (it's not quite end-to-end because there is some overlap, but you get the idea). The advantage here is that if you have the machinery to do this kind of welding you can turn out huge numbers of frames in a somewhat automatic setting, with machines doing much of the basic welding. 

Above you can see the components of a Schwinn frame - the head tube piece and bottom bracket. Rather than brackets, the pieces have "tails" that would then be welded to the ends of the various frame tubes.

With the Schwinn welding, you have the advantage of mass production, use of one material (the same basic, carbon steel), the consistency of machine welding. The disadvantages are that because you are welding, the tube walls need to be fairly thick, and the steel alloy is limited to a basic alloy that will weld-up properly rather than burn out, become brittle, etc. Schwinn frames tend to be quite durable, though quite heavy. Click HERE to view a longer article on Schwinn's method from Sheldon Brown's website.

 Above: a 1947 Schwinn welded frame shows how that head tube piece would finish up - smooth joints where the tubes weld into the "tails" on the head tube piece, and then the joint is cleaned up and smoothed out.

 

Comparing

So which is better?

The answer is that neither one is inherently better. They each do different things well and feel different when riding. Both will provide excellent service and last a lifetime if kept up properly. Both frames will rust if not properly cared for. 

The Raleigh frame tends to be a bit lighter, all else being equal on the bike, but is somewhat more prone to folding right behind the lug, if there is a crash. The Schwinn frame can and will bend if subjected to a strong crash, but tends to be more durable. The Schwinn frame also is more durable against dented tubes. I once saw a mechanic drop a heavy adjustable wrench while standing on a step ladder, which crashed butt-first against a Schwinn frame tube and the only loss was some chipped paint. 

The standard, post-war Raleigh Sports frame does not have frame angles that are quite as laid back as the Schwinn's angles, and it tends to ride "tighter" and have a little livelier feel. The Schwinn frame soaks up road vibrations better, has a little more "relaxed" feel, and has a little slacker feel in turns. These sorts of "feel" factors are a matter of personal taste. 

The Schwinn frames tend to be somewhat easier to work on, at least in the US, as they rely on common tools and sizes and, usually, on caged bearings.  Raleigh frames often are equipped with Whitworth sized parts and loose bearing balls, which can be more challenging to work on if you're working with just a few wrenches and basic tools. 

 Above: the smooth, lugless head tube of a 1964 Schwinn three speed.

If we get into the front forks that come with these frames, there are some differences there as well. Post-war Schwinn frames either come with a conventional tube fork (found on 1940s and many 1950s models), or with a flat bladed fork (found on some 1950s models and the 1960s and 70s models). 

 Above: an electroforge welded 1950 Schwinn Superior frame with the tubular "torpedo blade" style fork.

 The 1940s-50s tube forks are attractive and function as one would expect any conventional fork to function. The flat blade forks of the 1950s-70s are familiar to many older Americans but may seem strange to other riders. The flat forks are relatively strong fore-aft, but develop a fair bit of flex side-to-side. These forks had the advantage of being relatively easy to repair, relatively durable, and relatively cheap to produce. They are quite heavy.

 

Above is a flat-bladed Schwinn fork on a 1964 Traveler three speed bike.

 

Raleigh produced conventional forks with hollow tube blades, often using the familiar "thimble" fork pattern (though other Raleigh-affiliated brands had different designs - the Humber duplex blade being perhaps the oddest). These forks ride in a manner familiar to today's riders. They are relatively strong, and they don't especially flex in any direction. They are sufficient rigid, yet light enough to handle well. 

Above: the Raleigh thimble style fork, well-known the world over.

 

The bottom line is that you can choose either a Raleigh or Schwinn frame/fork and it can work well for you. They each feel somewhat different, though both are relatively durable. The heavier Schwinn frame tends to be more popular with more traditional riders in the US. The Raleigh frame and fork is more familiar globally, with many of the bikes seeing service in Africa and Asia as well as Europe and the US.  Which you prefer is a question of your own preference, but don't be afraid to try them both.

The Paint Bucket: Raleigh Bronze Green Touch-Up

 I have written before about how Raleigh/TI used a color called "bronze green" on numerous bicycles produced in the 1960s and 70s, and about how bronze green was not necessarily one color, but several shades of similar colors.

In summary, after dealing with many Raleighs over the years, I found that 1960s era bronze green tends to be more bronze, shinier, and brighter. 1970s era bronze green, particularly on Sports and Superbe models tends to be more olive green, less metallic/shiny, and maybe a little darker overall. 

So what about all those 1960s and 70s bikes that need touch-up paint?

Raleigh anticipated that, and manufactured small bottles of touch-up paint. Whether the bottles also evolved to match the ever-changing shades of bronze green, I do not know. 

But I am happy to say that you can make a competent form of bronze green using common Testors brand model paints (the ones in the little glass jars). 

The original mixture, or at least the starting place comes from YouTube user "Willy Dahm". He recommends the following:

• 12 drops of Testors Gloss Bright Lime
• 1 drop or 2 drops of Testors Gloss Black 

This is a good starting point. As I mentioned earlier, bronze green seems to have been a family of similar colors, and not necessarily just one single color. Then there is the fading that comes with years of use and exposure to the sun, so some bikes are naturally a little different in color.

What I found is that Mr. Dahm's mixture, at least on very bright and good-condition 1960s bronze green, should be modified just a bit as follows:

• 14 drops Testors Gloss Bright Lime (has a metallic component)
  
• 1 drop Testors Gloss Black
• 1 drop Testors Flat Brass (adds little light brown to the mix, with the metal element)
  

The reason for this modification is that on a very good, very original Raleigh Sprite from 1967, the 12-to-1 mixture was a little to green and dark. A couple extra drops of the lime, and a single extra drop of flat brass brought me to a very good approximation of original, 1960s era Raleigh Bronze green.

 

The lesson here is that when mixing touch-up paint you should start with a base recipe, and then modify slightly as fits your particular bicycle. If you try a recipe like this, don't give up right away, but instead play with the mixture a little until you see what you want. These Testors paints are oil-based, easy to mix, and reasonably good at keeping away rust if you properly prepare the area for paint.

 

Tires: 26 x 1.375 "American Lightweight" Tires (ISO 599mm)

 

 If you're you're looking for 26 x 1.375 (bead seat diameter 599mm) tires for your old, American-made utility bike, get ready to go deep into the world of vintage tires...

I say this because the tire size you are seeking is a unique one, abandoned long ago, in favor of Schwinn 26 x 1 3/8 (diameter 597mm) and British 26 x 1 3/8 (diameter 590mm). A little history is in order...

The American public has had an on-and-off relationship with bicycles over the past 120 years. In the 1890s there was a "bicycle boom", when people of all ages in the U.S. discovered the fun of riding bicycles. In the 1900s and 1910s, there was a "crash" of this bicycle boom that coincided with the rise of the affordable automobile. In the 1920s and 30s, bicycles mainly were for children and the occasional adult who needed a delivery cycle (Western Union deliverymen, for example).

A few years before WWII, several American bicycle manufacturers tried to revive adult bicycling by making lighter bicycles that were somewhat akin to British-style bikes with diamond or step-through frames and moderately wide tires. These bicycles often used a size called "26 x 1.375". The tires were made through WWII, and into the 1950s, when that tire size was gradually abandoned. By the 1960s, the size was already largely obsolete, though some tire makers may have continued making 26 x 1.375 in small numbers. 

The first thing to know is that 26 x 1.375 is not the same as 26 x 1 3/8. Yes, 3/8 may equal .375, but when it comes to tires, you can't just convert. 

So what choices do you have if you have an old, American-made bicycle that takes these tires? 

You basically have two choices, try to find good, old-stock 26 x 1.375 tires or try to adapt Kenda brand  26 x 1 3/8 Schwinn S5/S6 spec tires (bead seat diameter 597mm) to work. Using a little persistence and perhaps a little dish soap or silicone grease, you can slip the 597mm diameter tires onto many of the 26 x 1.375 (599mm) rims, then inflate carefully, making sure the tire seats properly. This will not work on all of these old rims, but on many it will work. 

The one major pitfall here is that 26 x 1.375 rims will not work with 26 x 1 3/8 British tires (590mm). The 9mm difference in the bead seat diameter is too much. That's why I say that the only real choice in a new tire is to try the 26 x 1 3/8 Schwinn S5/S6 (597mm), and see how it goes. The 2mm difference may be close enough that with some patience and fitting, you can get the Kenda Schwinn spec tire to fit the old 26 x 1.375 rim.

Tires: 26 x 1 3/8 Schwinn S5 and S6 (ISO 597mm)

 

 

So you've decided to buy (or you already own) a vintage Schwinn three speed bike... that's great. But you've reach the point where you need new tires. Either the originals are shot, or else missing, and you need tires.

 

First,  let us start with general rules. The proper tire size for this discussion is 26 x 1 3/8 Schwinn, also called 26 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 and 26 x 1 3/8 S5/S6. You need a special tire size, this is NOT the same as 26 x 1 3/8 British. The common tires for British three speeds will not work on your old Schwinn three speed. Instead, Schwinn co-opted an older size that was known in Britain as 26 x 1 1/4 (EA1). Schwinn renamed the size and modified the tire thickness a bit, and just like that they had their own tires. The idea was that you had to pay a Schwinn dealer to sell you tires rather than being able to buy commonly available British Dunlop tires off the shelf at the local shop. 

So now that you know you need this different tire size that fits Schwinn three speeds, what can you do?

The answer is, "not a whole lot". The reason is that only one company currently makes new tires for the Schwinn three speed size: Kenda. The Kenda tires are an acceptable tire, and not bad considering they are in the "budget" tire range. The Kendas work reasonably well if you're a casual vintage rider like I am. Don't expect the same quality as Michelin, Panaracer, or Schwalbe. But these tires are what are available today, and they're not all that bad.

 

The Kenda tires look reasonably vintage, have straight, street-type treads, and are reasonably durable. They come in black wall, tan wall, and white wall. The white wall goes especially well with those 1940s-60 era Schwinns from the age of glossy paint and lots of chrome and stainless steel. The tan walls work on the later "bike boom" era bikes from the 1970s. Black walls go with just about everything and are understated (they also are more correct for early post-war bikes). 

 

The other option besides the Kenda is a set of vintage tires, such as Goodyear, Uniroyal, Chain, or BF Goodrich. These were excellent tires in their day, and the Goodyears especially seem to last a long, long time. It's too bad these tires are no longer made. Interestingly some specialty British tires called 26 x 1 1/4 still turn up sometimes, and this is the same size as the Schwinn tires, but they are very uncommon in the United States today. They were used on some of very old "Clubman" type bikes the British had, and those tires are also very well made. But by now, they are very old. I recommend using new Kendas before trying to use old, broken-down vintage tires. It's a safety issue in my book.

But don't be afraid to buy and ride an old Schwinn three speed because of all of this. The Kenda tires are not bad, and are affordable. We all may wish something better was out there being made today, but it's still better than nothing at all.

 

 

26 x 1 3/8 (ISO 590MM) "British Sized" Tires - Frequently Asked Questions

 Every so often I like to review some of the options available for British "Sports" or "light roadster" type three speed bikes. I've got several bikes that take such a tire size, and each has different types of tires. I don't endorse any one brand or type of tire, but instead use what I think will work for my needs.

Let us start with general rules. First: the proper tire size for this discussion is 26 x 1 3/8 British size, that is to say 650A or ISO 590mm tires. Familiarize yourself with that size. Do not confuse these tires with "26 x 1 3/8 Schwinn" or "26 x 1 3/8 S5/S6" or "26 x 1 3/8 x  1 1/4" or "ISO 597MM" or "26 x 1.375". Those tires sound the same, but are totally different from the tires for a British 3 speed "Sports" light roadster. The standard "Sports" rims have a bead seat diameter of 590mm and the continental size is called "650A".

The second rule here is that tires fitting the British "Sports" type three speed bikes come in different widths, even though the sidewall generally says the same thing. Some tires are a little thicker to provide more cushion, while others are a little thinner to provide less resistance or to save money. No one tire is "right", assuming it fits the wheel, but instead you should pick a tire for your particular needs.

Here are my recommendations, based on the need of each rider.

1. "I need a thick tire because the roads I ride on are bumpy. I want the most cushion and the plushest ride I can get. The color of the tire is not overly important, and tan wall is OK".

Answer: I recommend the Panaracer Col de La Vie tire. These tires fit the British Sports three speed rims, but are much fatter than the originals. They have soft, tan sidewalls, and a simple street tread. They run at a somewhat lower pressure than a typical three speed tire, but can be run up to normal pressures if you prefer. They are very cushy without adding too much rolling resistance. The fit under the fenders will be very tight, but I have found they just barely fit under most three speed fenders. I suppose on some bikes, the fenders won't have enough clearance, but I have always gotten them to just fit inside the fenders.

 

 

2. "I want a cheap tire. As long as it doesn't blow the first time I ride, it's fine. I only ride shorter distances on relatively smooth road. I want to spend as little as possible."

Answer: Kenda makes an acceptable line of budget tires, in a variety of colors. Most are black wall or tan wall. They will work and are not overly expensive. The caveat here is that you're somewhat missing out by going with budget tires instead of something a little bit better. 

3. "I want tire with some extra cushion, but something still kind of sporty. I don't care about original tread appearance, but I want something practical and durable, preferably in a variety of colors. I am willing to pay a little more than budget tires but don't want to break the bank either."

Answer: The Schwalbe Delta Cruiser is a good, all-rounder tire. It doesn't have a truly vintage tread pattern, but it is reasonably well made and comes in a variety of colors, and the tread isn't offensive to vintage sensibilities either. They will outlast budget tires and have a little more bite in the treat than the Col de La Vie. They will also use up most clearance under the fenders, but should still fit. They're a little smaller than the Panaracers, but certainly bigger than the old time stock tires.

 

 

4. "I want a tire with a vintage appearance and fairly close to the original tire sizes. I want to choose from traditional appearances - tan wall, black wall, or white wall. I want something better than a budget tire but I don't want to break the bank in doing this."

Answer: The Michelin World Tour tire is an excellent choice for something better than a budget Kenda tire, but not as large as the Schwalbe or the Panaracer. It's also a good choice if you want to approximate vintage tires. Below is a photo of a new Michelin next to an original Dunlop Nylon Sprite.

 

 5. "Why would I need anything more than cheap tires. Aren't they all the same?" 

Answer: No, budget tires will have somewhat more rolling resistance and have a clunkier, dead feel to them. They will not cushion bumps as well and will feel kind of "slow" when you pedal. However, some budget tires, like the Kenda types, will give acceptable service if you don't want to spend much money. But be warned that you gain a lot in ride quality by going up a step to the Michelin or Schwalbe or Panaracer.   

6. "What Other Tires Have You Tried?"

Answer: I've used original tires in various conditions from scary to new-old-stock, Duro tires from Thailand, and no-name tires from who-knows-where. My experience is that as they originally came from the factory, the old Dunlop tires were second-to-none in this size. Too bad they don't make those tires anymore. But there are some decent alternatives made today, as described above. I would not hesitate to rider the Schwalbes, Panaracers, or Michelins. The Kendas are also acceptable from a budget tire standpoint, but you certainly notice a better feel when you move up to a better tire. The Duros were another budget tire, but I experienced quality control issues with them. I had one set of Duros last quite a long time and another set that disintegrated in under 4 years. They rode about the same as the Kendas but it was the luck of the draw as to whether they lasted or not.

Sometimes Less is More, Sometimes More is More

No new pictures of the 1967 Raleigh Sprite project, or of the 1949 Schwinn New World project... sorry to say. I've been busy working on both, a little at a time on each. I don't normally like to do that, but they're very different in terms of what is needed.

First, on some bikes "less is more" in terms of repairing or restoring the bike. Sometimes the project arrives in such a good condition, that you don't need to take everything apart. Certainly you should clean and lubricate mechanical portions, but if a bike comes in good condition, you may not need to take absolutely everything off. In other words, if something is clean and not rusty, or is not broken, then don't try to pull it all apart and fix what isn't broken. 

Second, on some bikes, you need to go down to the frame, disassembling just about everything for cleaning and re-building. These tend to be older bicycles that have a lot of use on them. So they benefit from cleaning and a total re-build.

The 1967 Sprite falls into the first category, and the 1949 New World falls into the second. The Sprite came in very good condition, such that I'll clean and lubricate the mechanical portions, but I'm not taking the bike down to just the frame. It doesn't need it. This is kind of a "clean and refurbish" type thing rather than a frame-up job.

The 1949 New World has required extensive work, including fork straightening, frame straightening, and rebuild all mechanical areas, pounding out dents in fenders, and extensive filling of lost paint areas. This is a true frame-up job, where even the frame itself has to undergo extensive work to get straight (sent away for commercial repair, then some additional work with frame tools and blocks to get back on track) and ready to ride again. 

The lesson is that you should tune your work to the project at hand. Don't automatically go to a full frame-up repair when you don't need it, and don't be afraid to dig into the project and do more where more is required. Take each bike as an individual case and adjust your approach accordingly.